sailinghudson25

Spot spray them, but spot seed with clover or a ceteal grain hen you do. Buy red clover, it grow faster than white. But white lasts longer. I almost always plant both together.

In august you can add maybe 40lb lbs per acre of oats or wheat to the existing plot with some fertilizer. Just spread, then, mow, then roll it in. Far as straight clover. I would of did red and ladino. The red is a fast growing annual.

Deer are browsers.... I add a bit of ash and some fertilizers to the shrubs on my 3 acre plot. I also plant browse. NYSDEC spring plant sale....... Red dogwoods,praire willow, arborvitae some white spruces for quick privacy. Just got the place........ didn't put a plot in yet......... no problems. The legal bait, cut some maple trees. They love those buds during muzzleloader week. I do all my tree felling in the winter to help the deer out. Good place to find sheds too. The bucks squeeze their head in there to get all the buds htey can get. Then they leave an antler or two...

Getting a dec permit eliminates potential hassle

Thats my morning plan too. Cutting the dead sections out of really old apple trees. Goit a fresh chain for the tree pruning saw too.

What's the consensus here..... 4th of July ok? Been going up there for 5 years, seems like they haven't been average weather to me....

Billdog, Tell us more about your spot. Soil, what's currently on your site, what the immediate area around it, the general area, and what pressures the deer have there. Custom tuning can make a big difference. Lack of good local bedding, lack of local water, or areas of high pressure. My plots have moderate pressure and compete with larger ag sources. I made my plot the aftwrnoon cocktails before dinner spot. Very rough edges, smaller plot sizes, and a contrast to what's there. Plot variety is important too. Between 3 or 4 different plants grown, they'll find something they'll like at most any time.

Mid august, unless I get a weird vibe about rainfall, then around labor day. Plotspike forage feast from tractor supply works great. Or a bag of wheat and 6lb of clover per half acre. Spread 3/4s of the bag of wheat. Save 2lbs of clover to frost seed in febuary. I always buy a bit extra, I'm always seeding a spit here or there, or redoing a weedy spot. Fall seeding wheat, spring seeding oats, if a drought killed the wheat sprouts then Winter rye and clover late September. Ideally cereal grains get an inch in, then clovers only a 1/4 inch deep. Scratch the soil, add your cereal grain and fertilizer, then drag it with a chainlink fence, a log, or a tire, then spread the clover, then roll it in with the tires. Never failed me yet. I put my harrows on the shallowest setting instead of the drag. Earthway 2750 seeder, an old spring harrow section behind an atv, and a quality weedwacker like a stihl fr70. It'll knock it down a half acre in a little over an hour.

I've planted it in mixes. Did well. I could see why they're in mixes.

I got the 6-24-24 at agway in Stamford ny. Very reasonable price 14 fir a 50lbs bag. 15-15-15 the same price too. Time will tell if the oats take. I think I used my scrap blend of small seeds there. Timothy, turnips, dutch, red, and ladino clover. My homemade throw n grow.

Id make 2 plots at 3/4 acre total. Leave some brush inbetween. My experiences. Keep it 1/4 to 1/3 acre with a few yards or tall grass and brush inbetween. Far as seed age, some matters and some don't. Raddishes, clover, and members of the brassica and turnip family have long seed germination rates. I got 5 or 6 year old seeds that germinate just fine. I beieve beans are in the category. I prefer whitetail institute clover for late summer plantings due to their seed water retention coatings. I always buy them on late season clearance and use the next year. For frost seeding, I buy in the summer and keep it around. I bought a 2 year old bag of forage feast blend. The peas, wheat, oats, and clover came up just fine. Alot has to do with how it i stored. A humidity and temperature controlled store is different than a farm shed out back. Thin seeds like ryegrasses have short germination. Not sure on soybeans,. I buy a bag of italian rye every couple of years. I finished a 3 year old bag last month. I spread more seed thinking the germination would be low. I over crowded the spot with too much. I use italian fortough spots, or areas that did not take in the food plot, spots I plan on making a food plot later, or a spot of tall grass that sticks out to attract a coyote to a trap spot up in the adirondacks.

My parking lot at my hunting club in the adirondack's always annoyed me. We mow this nasty razor grass. So, I sprayed with glyphosate, dumped some lime and 6-24-24, and some oats turnips and clover. There's maybe 2 cars a weekend in the summer in the .15 acre spot. The soil is compacted, but I only raked it. Not a ton of light, but enough for clovers for sure. Typical low ph sand based soil up in the moose river plains area. What do you guys think. Ryegrass and clover like throw n grow. We have an excellent snowshoe hare spot right by the cabin parking lot. I didn't have room for my 3ft drag harrow. But plan on redoing it if needed in early august.

I have a house for sale, but it's a slow market for my tough property. The plot needs to be redone. The plot is my backyard overlooking the catskill mtns. Been thinking of buying a pasture mix. What do you like about the mixtures, horse versus cow. The local area is a mix of hardwoods, brushed over pastures, and neglected but mowed and baled hayfields. Been there 6 years and no lime, plow, fertilizer, or reseeded in within a mile.

Look up Clethodim It's safe for broadleaf, but kills grasses. Check if it does.orchard grass. What's your spraying equipment. Is your water well watet, or the creek. 2% Glyphosate is common. Fot tougher weeds or perennial plants to die, some folks add another herbicide like 2,4 D. If you got a good source. Get ammonium sulfate. 17lbs of chemical per 100 gal of solution. It helps Glyphosate work on tougher weeds and with high mineral content water. Certain weeds use calcium receptors to block out harmful substances. The ammonium sulfate takes care if that. Minerals in water make some of the Glyphosate inactive. The ammonium binds firsy, but is still active. I like to rotate. Too much legumes for too long makes the nitrogen high. Also, clover is not imperial to disease or pests. Choke out the weeds in oats or buckwheat. Then spray in august again and do a wheat with peas turnips or another kind of clover. Red if you did white or vice versa.

I'm going to a remote area this weekend. I'm spraying Saturday as well as seeding in some clover and oats. Can I weedwack the next day? Next time I can get there is July maybe. I lined it in april, so it could be a foot tall possibly. It amazing what lime alone does up there. Plan b might be weedwacker down to 6 inches, rake, seed, then spray. Area is small maybe .05 acres just a clean up of shooting lanes and edges in a 1/4 acre plot. Aldo, anyone here spray Glyphosate and add borax soap? I've read folks doing it. Thinking adding 6oz to a 3 gal sprayer. Probably ends up to 4lbs an acre coverage on boron. Seeding a mix of red and ladino, the oats, a touch of Timothy and turnips too.

My favorite implement is that ancient drag. It doesn't make a mess of rocks come up. Mix wheat in with that clover. I'd put 50lbs of wheat, 4lbs red clover, 4lbs ladino clover around labor day. Then in febuary spread 3lbs of ladino ontop. I'll add 3 bags of 6-24-24 per acre in febuary if the snow isn't high, or wait until the ground is bare. Then around labor day to do another 3 bags the next year. I stopped waiting for perfect conditions to frost seed the clover, I just do it in febuary if I can walk through the snow. I'd put a dozen bags lime and 3 to 4 bags of fertilizer. Add most of the lime now. I'd save 2 bags of pelleted lime to mix in with the clover to make a more even spread. I usually look at the lime bags and save the bags with the finest granular for spreading with clover. I also add borax to the lime or fertilizer. Clover and turnips love boron. 2 4lb boxes per acre. And then 1 4lb box per acre every year after. Best to spray it then trying to mix it in with the lime. In the catskills, it's almost impossible to find high ph soil. So I add some lime every time I fertilize. Usually 2 bags pelleted lime to every bag of fertilizer spread.

What do they like about the beaver dam area. I thought they love certain aquatic plants in swampy areas.

Looking to get a moose on camera. Any tips? I'm on an 850 acre lease from the timber company. Mixed hardwoods with some spruce. 3 ponds 2 streams. Been recently logged 2 years ago. There's tracks in the logging trails. Focus on main corridors, or entry to beaver ponds?

Looking to get a moose on camera. Any tips? I'm on an 850 acre lease from the timber company. Mixed hardwoods with some spruce. 3 ponds 2 streams. Been recently logged 2 years ago. There's tracks in the logging trails. Focus on main corridors, or entry to beaver ponds?

I'm not a fan of monocrop. I'd put some clover seed down with the soybeans. If you're tilling next year, then red. If you think it'll be too hectic with the new kid, then do white.

I rototilled a lawn and made it a clover plot. About 30% of it survived the tilling. When should I spray. Will roundup kill lawn grass. Not sure if it's fescue or ryegrass. I got turnips and oats in there. My guess is theyll die leaving the clover. Should I wait until the new clover goes to seed? I wanted to spray, then overseed some wheat and more clover seed, then sratch it up a bit with the drag harrows. Reclaiming lawn is new to me. I'm used to clear cutting, then planting on a lightly weedy site. I'm using 41% glyphosphate with a 4 gal backpack sprayer

I got my new plot going. I rototilled the sod in november, then scratched up the area with a drag harrow in early april. Mid april I put dutch white clover where the shrubs were planted, and a mix of turnips, red and ladino clover, and oats in the 2 plot sections. The middle is divided in half by hazelnut transplants. The perimeter is 3 rows deep. The outside is dogwood, the middle praire willow, and the inside is white cedar. I also planted 20 white spruces on the side of the property for privacy. And one corner of the property I planted a blend of clovers in a somewhat rocky area. This is a closeup of the plot. I only rototilled in the fall and drag harrowed in the spring. There more lawn in there than I liked. I'm planning on spraying roundup this summer. This is a closeup of the wite cedar, prairie willow, and dogwood transplants. Theyre doing well. However, about 30% of these guys are too tiny to survive. You have to be careful mowing around them. They're small enough to blend in. I'd expect 70 of them to be big enough, and then plant the remaining 30 in nursery spots close together for next year. The prairie willows were a bit larger than the red dogwoods. The praire willow leafed out sooner too. All of these transplants got a 10gram tree fertilizer pellet. The hazelnuts had bigger root balls, so they got 2. I used a KST dibbler from Jim Gem products to get a hole for them. Ones with longer roots got a 2 or 3 wide hole. Typical Sized Praire Willow A little bit smaller than the typical white cedar I got This is the smaller dogwoods I got. I took me about an hour to mow around the 300 of them around the edge of my plot. I'd push a lawnmower until I see the branch bend a touch. Surprizingly, I did not mow over a single one yet...... No fencing around them, I'm planning on buying another 100 red dogwoods next year. Hopefully, I can use 50 to make another privacy break, and the other 50 to replace eaten, dead, or mowed over spots. I'l spot replace some of the praire willows lost with the dogwoods. Ill buy another 25 cedars as well. I also bought 25 hazelnuts. They were well formed root systems to 10 inch or so tall shrub bundles. Maybe 3 to 8 branches. I bought 20 white spruces. Good sized and doing well. Easily seen in somewhat taller grass if it gets out of hand there. I rototilled all spots before planting, limed a bit, lightly fertilized, and only put dutch white clover. There is some grass coming through though In march I just bought a new to me 3ft wide drag harrow. I scratched up a poorly grown weedy .10 acre corner with red cedars here n there. I put a few bags of lime, a bag of grass strarter fertiulizer that was on clearance, and a mix of year old clovers I had laying around. Ladino, red, arrowleaf, and some dutch white. Weeds are in it, but the clover. I picked up 25 red clover transplants from the nursery. Much sized like the white cedars. Theyre doing well too. I planted them here n there in the .10 acre corner to fill up open areas. Not sure if this plot will be around for a long period of time, or I'll make it a brush privacy corridor. This spot is 30 by 15 yards wide or so. I planted a singe row of dogwood along the edge facing the front yard. The area used to have a brushed up 100 acre old orchard. But, new owners mowed the whole thing down. They have alot of weekend activity. They have permantent tents up and rent the place on air b and b. Deer still come here on the edge of daylight. I'm hoping to get a dumb doe or two from this plot during muzzleloader season. Not expecting a miracle, but I want activity from my 8 acre homestead. There's also 20 very old apple trees. I fertilized and limed them. Im going to saw the dead sections off in a few weeks. The ammendments helped. I also clearance the vines off these old trees. I also spread dutch white clover along travel routes through the yard. The edges of the property and the brush island in the middle. This summer I'm building a hunting blind big enough for bowhunting.

I wouldn't fuss over the perfect percentage. Either the even amount stuff, or 6-24-24 is ok. This year lowes had lawn starter fertilizer on clearance, so I bought that instead. It was 24-17-7 or something like that. Also, if doing clover, it initally needs a decent bit of nitrogen. Once established and you bought innoculated clover, then a low nitrogen is fine. I buy from agway usually. They mix their own there. They had 50lbs of 6-24-24 for $14 and 17-17-17 for $12. what size plot are we talking. nothing wrong with manure either.....

I spray as little as possible. But, a really good no till routine includes a decent bit of spraying.

A wild guess here, but you may need 10 bags of lime in there. 15-20 would be more ideal. Each spot the size of a 1 car garage would probably need 1 bag of lime. The ph test would tell you for sure....