wildcat junkie

OP needs to be careful reading books about making the shot itself as that can lead to too much thinking. I learned at 14 & just did what came naturally, In those days, I could consistantly hit a cottontail through the shoulders at 10-15 yds in the dark. How I learned to do that is an interestng story in itself. Books are great for learning about equipment, but can lead to too much thought when making the shot. In my 30s I read Howard Hill's "Hitting Them the Hard Way" & it lead to target panic,

Since the deer in question would also be considered Stillwater's "livestock", they could be held responsible for any damages, deaths or injuries that resulted from that deer being involved in an automobile/deer accident. In a sense, the kid did them a service.

We made about 350 doz finished cedar arrow a year ending in 1998. They varied in price from $48 to about $84 a doz. Those would have been at the top of the price scale with the spliced cock feathers. All of the arrows were heat tempered/straightended, wieght matched + or - 5 grains in 5# spine increments. One feature we offered was a catalogued date & serial # 1 through 5. The serial number/date recorded the RSW (Raw Shaft Weight) spine, stain color, dip color, crest as well as fletch type & color. We used pre-cut 5" shield feathers on the $48 a doz utility arrows, custom burns on the higher grades. If you called 6 months, a year, etc, later, we could build arrows that would not only match in color, fletch, etc, they would also shoot to the same POI as your previous arrows. We sold ready made arrow to customers from France at the Denton Hill shoot & also had a repeat customer from Germany that placed his orders via telephone..

I doubt that B&C would recognize it so techically, it's not a booner.

This would fit my budget to purchase 3. http://www.amazon.com/Covert-Black-Invisible-Camera-Mossy/dp/B00JBH7M7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419260496&sr=8-1&keywords=covert+mp6

I can't seem to find much on the MP6. Are they discontinued? Lots of info on the MP-E5 & MP-8/MP-8 black.

I'm looking to spend less than $150. I don't need professional grade photos, just good enough to identify individual bucks or even runs being used consitantly by does in hopes of them bringing tag-a-long bucks. I don't need videos either. This one looks interesting. http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hunting/Optics/Cameras/Trail-Cameras-Accessories%7C/pc/104791680/c/104752080/sc/104243580/i/103867380/Bushnell174-6MP-Camo-Trophy-Cam-Trail-Camera/1834214.uts?destination=%2Fcatalog%2Fbrowse%2Ftrail-cameras-accessories%2F_%2FN-1100074%2FNs-MAX_SALE_PRICE%257C1%3FWTz_l%3DSBC%253BBRprd1834214%26WTz_stype%3DGNU%26recordsPerPage%3D108&WTz_l=SBC%3BBRprd1834214%3Bcat103867380 There is a long review on this one. (on Amazon) One feature I like is the 1 second repeat feature than would insure getting a good shot at a deer passing by. It seems to have the features I want. The 1 negative comment in this review had to do with IR glow. Is that a deal breaker? 4.0 out of 5 stars Great daylight photos, good nighttime, so so video (long review), October 9, 2014 By Chris Zee Shutterbug (Baton Rouge La) - See all my reviews (VINE VOICE) This review is from: Bushnell 6MP Trophy Cam Essential Trail Camera with Night Vision (Sports) Vine Customer Review of Free Product (What's this?) Bushnell Trophy Cam Essential Intro Note: I got one of the updated firmware cameras out of the box. Serial numbers less than B140610000 will need to be updated due to a date/time bug. The camera will now keep the date and time even when turned off. If you remove the batteries though, the settings will be kept, but the date and time will have to be reset. Regarding the batteries, my camera worked just fine with the Eneloop rechargeable batteries (which are not recommended, manual suggests Alkaline or Lithium). With 8 Lithium batteries, potential run time is up to a year. This trail cam is truly an "essential" model. It does the basics very well and the rating is relative to its cost and intended purpose. The photo quality is much better than I expected. The range of the motion detect, with the added bonus of taking interval based photos will work very well for a game trail. The video capture is basic quality only, and the glowing night vision led's may give the camera away. Out of the box setup was truly intuitive, (I did not have to read the manual first). I do wish the labels on the setup buttons were more legible, or that the buttons were oriented as described in a cross pattern, rather than all in a row. Each time I wanted to change the setup, I had to bring the camera into bright light. I used the camera with both a tripod and the included strap, both worked well. Performance: The daylight photos have great detail and color, at the 5mp (850k size) and 6mp (950k size) resolution (look much better than my GoPro Silver 3+ at 10mp). Even the 3mp (625k size) pictures look very detailed. I could easily tell the difference say between a raccoon and an opossum at over 100ft. That is probably due in part to the fairly narrow 50degree field of view. In very bright light there was substantial washout of highlights. Night photos are susceptible to motion blur. The lens is specified as f3.1 but the camera Exif data reports it as f2.8. I don't know if I would trust the Exif data all that much as it always showed ISO 100, and 1 second shutter speed no matter what. Every brand of SD card I had worked just fine, and the camera will accept up to a 32GB size. The camera switches to night mode with a click and does so at an early dusk. The IR night vision LED's glow red similar to a small portable heater red when they light up. So if you are looking in the direction of the camera you will see them. On the other hand they did have a good range, I would fully agree that they are good out to 60 feet, compared to black led's which are spec'd out to only 45 feet. The flash does not seem to throttle down a lot, and images of objects at less than 5 feet will be very washed out. The motion detect trigger range is very interesting. Based on heat difference of moving body compared to the background it could be as little as 15 feet (human body against a warm sunlit background), to 45 feet (same body against a shady background, or as much as 150 ft (lawn tractor against shade). I usually set it to capture 2 consecutive photos on trigger (one second apart, this pretty much assures one good one) then set it to wait 10 sec before next trigger (both settings are adjustable. There is a sensitivity setting, which includes an auto mode, which worked well. The camera is aware of the outside temperature to shift the sensitivity. It can record this temperature (photos only) along with date and time (both photos and video) on the display. The video resolution is adjustable from 320x240 up to 720x480. Even at the highest 720 resolution (6.5mb per 5 seconds) the picture is not great. Its usable, but if you are at all interested in video, I recommend that you buy one of the trail cams that offer 1080 HD video, it will have six times better resolution. The field scan (taking photos at predetermined intervals of every 1 to 60 minutes) works very well. If there is something just outside of motion detect range, you will now have an opportunity to see it as well. In summary this trail camera fits its purpose and price very well. Unless you need high quality video and have no tolerance for any IR glow (in which case I suggest Trophy cam HD Max Bushnell 8MP Trophy Cam HD Max Black LED Trail Camera with Night Vision, twice the price though) it should suffice for both game and surveillance. Help other customers find the most helpful reviews Was this review helpful to you? Yes No

I would like to see a late December "primitive weapons" season. Similar the PA's flintlock season also allowing exposed hammer/nipple fixed breech percussion rifles or muskets. Loose powder, patched roundball or full bore sized lead conicals. Iron sights.

I prefer a Ma-Deuce mounted in the bed of a pick-up. Anchors 'em on the spot!

There aren't that many crop fileds in my immediate area. About 1 mile South is a small Dairy farm that grows corn to chop. There are some small cornfields about the same distance North grown/harvested by the same farmer. He hays about 30 acres on my place. I see deer in/around the hayfields until the last week of October. After that they move into the forested areas to feed more on the oaks that are scattered throughout the woods on my place & some adjoining areas. My place is a funnel that is squeezed in between swamps, some large hay fields to the west, my hay fields & the St Regis River to the east. Once snow cover gets deep enough to cover the acorns & left over corn, they congregate in the cedar & hemlocks to the back end & the north edge of my woods. The thick browse in the 15 acre cut-over gets hit harder once snow cover gets significant. The best deer hunting on my place developes as the season progresses after Halloween. I want to use the cameras to follow deer movement as it changes. I would place them on the horse trails & they could be moved with minimal impact. The deer don't seem to pay much attention to motorized mid-day activity on the horse trails. We quietly slip in on foot in midafternoon for evening hunts from stands. I have pretty well figured out the movements that I can observe from the tri-pod. I have spent many afternoons observing deer & have had to wait until it was pretty dark to leave in order to prevent spooking deer that were in my immediate area. I don't see large numbers of deer until we have snow. Even so, I can depend on seeing deer every other day or so if I remain patient. In years past I saw a lot of yearling bucks. More of them than does. The last 2 years I've seen more does than bucks, most likely due to reduced DMPs & overall reduction in hunting presssure on adjacent properties. 90% of the deer taken are from the tri-pod stand that commands good shooting lanes in about 5 directions. The distances range from 50-75-100yds with a 245yds shooting lane directly to the front. I know there is deer movement through areas that we never cover. The tracks in the beaten down crossings reveal this. I have hunted the property almost exclusively by myself over the last 10 years, with the occasional weekend visit from so-called friends that promise to help out, but never seem to have the time when I call them in August. My son has really gotten the bug this year & his friend that has helped in the past clearing shooting lanes just bought a Savage AXIS II in 7mm-08. He plans to start hunting next year. With 3 hunters I need to expand the area covered & I have also explained that we all can't expect to take bucks off the place for any extended time period. My son & I are also exploring some very promising public land about 13 miles to the South to spread out the pressure. I have 2 ladder stands lying on the ground that are not being used & another in a spot that is too often compromised by wind direction. I think I even have a few hang-on stands in the hay mow that could be used by my much younger & less girthsome hunting partners. I could use these to cover the additional areas being neglected now.

Checked out the website. It also led me to some others. I'm starting to realize that night time image quality isn't all that important as my primary purpose will be to time daytime movement. The deer on my place aren't pressured much and they sometimes move in mid morning or early afternoon under certain conditions. Early evening/just after sundown PIX might might allow me to set up stands/ambush sites to intercept them during legal hours. I wouldn't need absolute quality. The central area of 15 acres was selectinely logged in '98/'99. Visability in there is in feet, not yards. It is ringed by a horse trail & there are several active trails crossing it. We never set foot in there unless it is to retrieve a deer that ran into it which seldom happens. There is a wide 245yd shooting lane running up the middle. It would be nice to monitor the crossings for daytime useage. So far we are only hunting about 1/2 of the area. Since there will be 3 of us hunting it now, I feel we need to get spread out more so finding out more about the deer movement would be beneficial. Mornings on my place aren't usually productive. I've never killed a buck before 10:00 AM on my place.

I had a conversation with my local FFL about receiving an internet sale just the other day. He didn't have an issue with it. SAFE act hasn't changed the process of transfer has it? BTW: I have always paid $20 for a transfer. In the last 10 years I've purchased 4 firearms on the internet & transfered them through 2 different local FFLs.

I would think that non-toxic shot would be maked on the hull too.

I don't know why in state sale would be more difficult. You ship to an FFL & they do the background check.

Do all of these use a standard memory card like a hand held didgital camera?

Since my son & his buddy are now willing to work & invest in improving my property, I'm considering investing in a few trail cameras. Probably 3 to start with. I know nothing other than the manufacturers propaganda that I see on outdoor shows. Here are my prerequisites. Cost/value. What am i getting for my $$$ Durability/waterproof/temperature range Trigger speed Quality of images under all light conditions.. Range. (I have some shooting lanes that have multiple trails crossing/entering them. 50 yds range would be minimal) I don't need wide angle because the shooting areas are narrow openings in thick cover. Battery life Photo capacity What I am not interested in. Bells & whistles. I want a basic, easy to use camera that will capture decent quality images under all conditions that will last a long time. All I need for image storage is a standard, readily available, high capacity image card that I can swap out & down load to my computer. I don't have or plan to have a "smart phone". I do not need something that will "send" images. If I am missing out on some important basic features, please enlighten me. I have a very limited budget & the more value I can get, the more cameras I can afford. Sale prices right now are irrelavant as this is something that will be budgeted along with food plot over the next 9 months. Once the make/model is selected, I can watch for "bargains".

I shipped a Rugar "Old Army" percussion revolver through USPS W/O an FFL. That depends on the state though. I had some guy in NJ purchase the gun 1st, but he had no FFL to receive which was required. I think he was trying to circumvent the law. I ended up selling it to someone in a state with no requirements for FFL on that particular weapon type. "Antiques" or replicas are exempt in USPS regs.. As far as UPS, my 1st experience was with a rifle barrel shipped to Canada so I may have been assuming the rest. According to their rules, which I just checked out on their website, manufactirers, dealers, etc, may ship to individuals. That's not correct is it?

Where is the thread? Can you post a link?

Google "Quad Rotor" http://stuccu.com/s/Quad+rotor+rc-MbSLsTI-Buy-Exclusive-Deals-70-OFF-Save-Big-Lowest-Price-On-Quad-rotor-rc-Best-In-Stock-Fast-Free-Shipping?mt=b&keyword=quad%20rotor%20rc&ap=1o1&cid=48353621822&caid=545ab8c2b1b1c618d481683f&netid=1&network=g&aaid=54636312b1b1c61e78ad8cc0&gclid=CN7hgbi-18ICFY_m7Aod9xsA1g http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-RC-Quadcopters-c-1848.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=nydia&utm_campaign=Src-us-rq&gclid=CIrkvtO-18ICFe_m7Aod5QcANA http://www.gearbest.com/rc-quadcopters-c_11333/?gclid=CLLkkoG_18ICFeVj7Aod_SYARw

I think the biggest hurdle is actually the USPS. Since UPS & other private shippers won't ship firearms, the USPS is your only option. Their requirement are that long guns be shipped to an FFL. I don't see what state either end is in would matter to the USPS. Not sure about why handguns require an FFL on both ends.

As far as I know, if it's shipped from anywhere, it requires being shipped to an FFL on the receiving end. Does the SAFE act now require one on the shipping end? I shipped several guns over the last few years (before the SAFE act) & was not required to use an FFL on my end. Handguns did require an FFL on the shipping end, but not long guns. Just curious.

Maybe that's the rational for the name tag requirement. How would anyone prove it was their stand if it was left unatended?

Can't say anything about NY, but in Indiana any stand on public land had to have permanantly attached tag with the name/address of the owner. I think that was mainly to eliminate conflict. Any stand that penatrated the bark more that 1/4" was ilegal. That eliminated homemade stands nailed into a tree, screw in tree steps etc.

One more suggestion. Start with a bare bale at short distance, no target. Just look at a spot & shoot concentrating of form. Don't be concerned where you are hitting at 1st. just concentrate on draw, ANCHOR, pause, release while looking at a spot on the bale. Worrying about accuracy at 1st can set you back. Don't practuce too long either. 30 shots once a day is better than 200 shots once a week.

Very good point about the vanes. I have tried gap & POA shooting. While it may work over known ranges, when it came to making shots at various angles/ranges, it wasn't very practical for me. I tried sights in the early '70s with similar results What you are calling split vision is what I would call instinctive. One is aware of the arrow in the periferal vision but is not "looking down the arrow" as many descibe instinctive shooting. The stump shooting will give the mind's eye visionary reference over many episodes just like shooting baskets with a basketball. When you come to a Dandelion head or a large distinctive leaf on the forest floor, you don't stand there & calculate the distance in XXX feet or yards. Your mind imagines the arc of the arrow to the target just like it would imagine the arc of a basketball or football when shooting a basket/making a pass. The eye focuses on then target while the mind's eye visualizes the arc on the arrow from the periferal vision. It takes a lot longer to master istinctive shooting, but it will pay off in the clutch. Start off by practicing at know yardages, stating at short distances. increase the distances as you learn. after you can shoot accurately at known distances over flat ground, then graduate to stump shooting. Actual stumpsof the right size can make a good appoximation of a deer's chest. They are good targets to get you into picking a spot where there isn't one. When I left S Indiana in the late '90s about 1/2 of the bow hunters had gone to traditional archery & instictive shooting. Many compound shooters could pound arrows into a tight group at 20yds but when the pressure was on they would forget all about yardage estimation, sight pins, etc. They would just pull back let the arrow fly under the pressure. many found that by learning true instinctive shooting they would increase their chandes for success. As for those flat shelf bows from earlier days? It fairly easy to put a small peice of leather under the "rug" to make a small raised spot for the arrow shaft. One very important word of cautuion for the OP. DO NOT start to "think" too much when making the shot. Just concentrate on the draw, ANCHOR, pause, release. Either over thinking the shot, or snap shooting as in releasing as soon as you reach your anchor can lead to taget panic. That can take years to overcome or even never be overcome.