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Groups not coming together... Is this why?


josephmrtn
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Another thing to consider is that if your arrows dont fly straight with field tips they will look like a knuckleball when you put broadheads on them! Besides getting bent, aluminum arrows can also get dented from being hit with another arrow and it will be very hard to notice. Get yourself some carbon arrows, either they're broke or they're good. No need to worry about them being bent or dented. If you're worried about ruining them when practicing, just put 5 different bullseyes on your target and shoot one arrow at each one per round.

I put my broad heads on and tried it and they fly WAY better than my field tips... deadly accurite

Never have I heard broad heads fly better than field tips.

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Never have I heard broad heads fly better than field tips.

Yeah, that is definitely the more common situation that field tipped arrows fly better than almost any broadhead. That's the reason that expanding broadheads were invented. If the broadheads are flying better than arrows with field tips, that is usually due to two or more "wrongs" actually making the arrow hit where you want it ...... sometimes. Certain mis-tuned features of the arrow or the bow or shooting form can actually give the impression that broadheads are flying better than field tips, but the fact is that neither is really flying properly....lol.

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You should still be flexing and twisting the shafts to be sure they are good. I do it every so often when Im shooting, as well as before and after each practice session.

The best way is to flex the arrow and vigorously rub your hand back and forth along the shaft with a pretty tight grip. If your hand winds up bleeding and full of splinters, the arrow is no good ........ Just kidding!

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your problems &  questions are as old as archery itself .  I have been building,repairing, tuning,shooting & coaching ,over 40 yrs.;  BUT this is not about me.

the above ans. are all good advice but do they solve your problem? sounds to me like you are so flustered that you are grabing at anything,this does not work!

It does not matter what your bow,arrow ,rest or sight is but it has to be matched & tuned ! For anyone to try to do this on internet is ( to say the least ) very

difficult . I don't know where you live, I'm in western N.Y.      If I can't help you go to a good proshop or coach .  " IF " you & your equipment is matched

properly target poins & broadheads will fly the same !!   

                                                                                       GOOD LUCK & DON'T GIVE UP           SJ

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Never have I heard broad heads fly better than field tips.

All my broadheads are the same weight but my target tips are miss matched... (im getting the same weight target tips as broadheads as soon as i can get to the bow shop) i think that prob affects it...

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All my broadheads are the same weight but my target tips are miss matched... (im getting the same weight target tips as broadheads as soon as i can get to the bow shop) i think that prob affects it...

 

 

You need to just get a dozen of the same arrows that are the correct spine for your setup and get a pack of field tips that are the same weight and throw your other field points in the trash so you wont mix them up. Then bring your bow to a professional and have it tuned properly. Then all you have to worry about is practicing your shooting!

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As far is i can tell on the spine charts my arrows are just fine... they are brand new i dont really wanna pitch em anyhow... 

 

 

I can tell you right now that the 2216's weigh more than the 2117's, so they are not the same. Then you throw in the fact that you dont know what any of your field points weigh and I can almost guarantee you that every one of your arrows is a different weight. You need to shoot one size and one brand of arrow to have consistency. I've been shooting for 30 years and was in the Empire State Games for archery, so I'm not just some internet Cowboy trying to make you spend money.

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Look, each person has a certain amount they wish to spend on a certain item or sport. If Joseph wishes to keep his costs down, so be it.

I remember a thread I made regarding saving an Easton arrow a buddy of mine blew up. He has a longer draw than I do and I was able to salvage the arrow by cutting the damaged part off. It's a tiny bit shorter than my draw, but shoots fine. My accuracy has not been able to tell the difference between that arrow and that of my set of 12 CX I purchased new. To each their own as long as they ain't gut shooting deer.

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Look, each person has a certain amount they wish to spend on a certain item or sport. If Joseph wishes to keep his costs down, so be it.

I remember a thread I made regarding saving an Easton arrow a buddy of mine blew up. He has a longer draw than I do and I was able to salvage the arrow by cutting the damaged part off. It's a tiny bit shorter than my draw, but shoots fine. My accuracy has not been able to tell the difference between that arrow and that of my set of 12 CX I purchased new. To each their own as long as they ain't gut shooting deer.

 

 

To each his own. He asked for advice and I gave it. If he don't want to listen that's up to him. If he went to any pro shop that was worth a crap they would tell him the same thing. Like Doc said....consistency is key in Archery!

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and I see you're already shooting broadheads....in my opinion, broadhead tuning should be the last thing you do after you have everything else consistent and shooting properly, with the cost of broadeads, it's just not cost efficient to burn them up just for the sake of seeing how they shoot.

Edited by jjb4900
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I am going to repeat what I said in the past and others have said.Use 10 or 12 of the same exact arrows, brand, length, model number ,spline.If you are trying to set up for hunting.Throw away the field points,Use the same brand, model and weight Broadheads on each arrow. Do Not Shoot Groups on the same spot of the target.(* I see you made a new target ) draw 5 or more circles on it with a big dot in the center of each circle,Now shoot 1 arrow at each circle.No ruined arrows or broadheads.Going to a pro shop with every thing you are going to use is not a bad idea.

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I can tell you right now that the 2216's weigh more than the 2117's, so they are not the same. Then you throw in the fact that you dont know what any of your field points weigh and I can almost guarantee you that every one of your arrows is a different weight. You need to shoot one size and one brand of arrow to have consistency. I've been shooting for 30 years and was in the Empire State Games for archery, so I'm not just some internet Cowboy trying to make you spend money.

I weighed them all they all are withing a few grains of each other... however i am going to buy all 100 grain target tips that way they are the same weight as my broadheads... nope all my arrows are same brand and weight... all my hunting arrows that is... i have a couple trashy arrows that i shoot with if im worried about losing them while preforming archery experments LOL...

 

Look, each person has a certain amount they wish to spend on a certain item or sport. If Joseph wishes to keep his costs down, so be it.

I remember a thread I made regarding saving an Easton arrow a buddy of mine blew up. He has a longer draw than I do and I was able to salvage the arrow by cutting the damaged part off. It's a tiny bit shorter than my draw, but shoots fine. My accuracy has not been able to tell the difference between that arrow and that of my set of 12 CX I purchased new. To each their own as long as they ain't gut shooting deer.

He does.... lol lol

 

 

im not out to spend money guys... also im not out to win gold medals for my accuracy at 60 yrds... all i want is to be able to kill a deer at 10 yrds or so and make a good shot on it... sorry if that sounds to close but thats all im comfortable with right now... possibly in a yr or two i will move out to 25 or 35 yrds but right now there is no way im gonna even consider it... im not a good enough shot yet...

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What everyone's trying to point out here is that you will be way more accurate with the proper matching equipment. The reason you don't feel comfortable past 10 yards is because any farher than that your arrows probably don't fly very straight. I have never seen anyone that couldn't shoot well out to 20 yards with a little practice with the properly set up bow. It probably has less to do with you not being a good enough shot yet and more to do with your equipment.

BTW, 2216's do not weight the same as 2117's. They are not the same spine either.

Edited by Arrow Flinger
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Look, each person has a certain amount they wish to spend on a certain item or sport. If Joseph wishes to keep his costs down, so be it.

I remember a thread I made regarding saving an Easton arrow a buddy of mine blew up. He has a longer draw than I do and I was able to salvage the arrow by cutting the damaged part off. It's a tiny bit shorter than my draw, but shoots fine. My accuracy has not been able to tell the difference between that arrow and that of my set of 12 CX I purchased new. To each their own as long as they ain't gut shooting deer.

 

You really shouldnt be cutting the damaged section of a carbon arrow off and continuing to shoot it. Do that kind of thing and eventually youll end up like this guy...

 

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With the proper set up and guidance you should be comfortable out to 30 yards within a few hundred shots. Part of the reason you don't feel comfortable is most likely due to inconsistencies of your equipment. Weight an arrow is just one variable. Spine is another. arrows flex when you shoot them. Some flex more than others. That also plays a huge role in arrow flight and accuracy. On top of that you have a straightness factor. Some have straightness tolerances. This is the least of your worries but combined with different weights and spine and you will have huge inconsistencies. Getting within 10 yards is admirable but that's only the first part. You then have to draw undetected and fire a consistent shot. Being only proficient at 10 yards you aren't doing yourself or the animal any favors. I practice out to 60 yards. I'll never take a 60 yrd shot on a deer but a that makes that 30 yard shot an easy chip shot.

Edited by jesse.james
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With the proper set up and guidance you should be comfortable out to 30 yards within a few hundred shots. Part of the reason you don't feel comfortable is most likely due to inconsistencies of your equipment. Weight an arrow is just one variable. Spine is another. arrows flex when you shoot them. Some flex more than others. That also plays a huge role in arrow flight and accuracy. On top of that you have a straightness factor. Some have straightness tolerances. This is the least of your worries but combined with different weights and spine and you will have huge inconsistencies. Getting within 10 yards is admirable but that's only the first part. You then have to draw undetected and fire a consistent shot. Being only proficient at 10 yards you aren't doing yourself or the animal any favors. I practice out to 60 yards. I'll never take a 60 yrd shot on a deer but a that makes that 30 yard shot an easy chip shot.

 

Exactly what I do. Friends look at me like I'm nuts when I'm out in my yard shooting 90 yards. They ask me if I can shoot deer that far. I tell them I would never take a shot that far but it sure makes those 30 yard shots feel like chip shots!

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