First-light Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) My heating system has this type of valve on the return. I need to bleed the system for an air lock (changed a gasket on circ pump) The valve has a hose hookup and a nut above it. On the back is a turn screw that only move a half turn. How does this actually work. I imagine one closes the valve and the other opens or do I just turn the screw????? Edited October 30, 2013 by First-light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adkhunter1590 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Have you tried bleeding it at the circulator? You can loosen the bolts up and crank up the heat to turn the circ on and wiggle the circulator till it pisses out water. If not I'm not sure how that setup you got there works. Hard to tell by the pics though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 That is going to make one giant mess don't ya think. I just got that puppy back together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 can you get a closer pic of that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adkhunter1590 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Just put some towels down. Shouldn't be too bad. I worked for my father in law for a couple months doing service and installs on boilers and hot air furnaces. We bled air from the circ all the time. A Lot of service calls led to bad old worn out circs so when we would swap them we just bled it before tightening them down all the way. Don't forget to change the filter and nozzle! Will help your unit run more efficient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjb4900 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I would think the air lock is at a higher point.....most likely in the baseboard, does your baseboard have bleeder valves on the ends? that's where I would start. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hey. That is a fill?drain valve. On each fin tube onthe supply side there is probably a 90 or Tee and on the top will be a small needle valve. This is where the air will accumulate and where you vent it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjb4900 Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hey. That is a fill?drain valve. On each fin tube onthe supply side there is probably a 90 or Tee and on the top will be a small needle valve. This is where the air will accumulate and where you vent it. if the fin tube is what's inside the baseboard, I agree...the air will usually get trapped at the highest point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 it is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 I tried venting from the baseboard some worked some didn't. I wanted to bleed from those valves but wasn't sure how they worked. I think tonight I'll mess around and see what each thing there does (nut and screw). Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 That is the bleed valve. Turn off system and attach hose then turn screw the half turn until it stops open hose connection and lift handle on feed valve to increase pressure but watch the gauge you don't want to go over 20 psi because the relief valve will open at 30psi and dump water on floor. this is a saftey so it needs to be able to do it but you don't want to trigger it. If you can't increase pressure like I said just close the hose connection until pressure builds up and open again. don't stop the first time you hear water becaue you will need to purge a lot of water to get the air out. You will probably need to do both zones. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 The nut above the hose connection is the valve stem to open hose. Try not to strip it. Use adjustable wrench not pliers or channel locks. If hose connection leaks a little after you close it you need to get hose caps with washers to seal , but probably won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 That is the bleed valve. Turn off system and attach hose then turn screw the half turn until it stops open hose connection and lift handle on feed valve to increase pressure but watch the gauge you don't want to go over 20 psi because the relief valve will open at 30psi and dump water on floor. this is a saftey so it needs to be able to do it but you don't want to trigger it. If you can't increase pressure like I said just close the hose connection until pressure builds up and open again. don't stop the first time you hear water becaue you will need to purge a lot of water to get the air out. You will probably need to do both zones. Good luck sounds like you are describing filling the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 That is the bleed valve. Turn off system and attach hose then turn screw the half turn until it stops open hose connection and lift handle on feed valve to increase pressure but watch the gauge you don't want to go over 20 psi because the relief valve will open at 30psi and dump water on floor. this is a saftey so it needs to be able to do it but you don't want to trigger it. If you can't increase pressure like I said just close the hose connection until pressure builds up and open again. don't stop the first time you hear water becaue you will need to purge a lot of water to get the air out. You will probably need to do both zones. Good luck Awesome, this sounds exactly right. Kind of what I was thinking but just didn't know what the nut above the hose connection did. Thanks again Hunter I will give it a try tonight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Culver, HW systems have a constant cold water feed with a press reducing valve. Usually set at 12psi but 18psi for three story buildings. The other end of the hose goes into a drain or out the door if the boiler is in the garage. The bleed valve in pic shuts off the boiler side and forces water through system and pushes air out. First light, don't forget to open half turn screw stop when done to allow circulation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Hunter, I won't forget that thanks. Hey this is 1 zone heat but it does have two of these valves. Do 1 at a time, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Yes sir. Let me know how it goes. Leave the first one closed while doing second so no air can enter that zone then open both. usually better to over purge a zone than to have to repeat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 (edited) Got it! BTW this might not be happening until Sunday. I am leaving for camp tomorrow and will be home Sunday afternoon. Just didn't want you to think I didn't report back. Edited October 30, 2013 by First-light Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Gave it a shot last night. Bled out both lines dumped about 30 gallons from each. Fired her back up and got heat in all rooms except one upstairs bedroom. I'll give it another try on Sunday, got "hunten" on my mind!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Gave it a shot last night. Bled out both lines dumped about 30 gallons from each. Fired her back up and got heat in all rooms except one upstairs bedroom. I'll give it another try on Sunday, got "hunten" on my mind!!!!!!! Is that a room where the needle valve is working? Usually the upper floor is the hardest to bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hunter Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Glad it was mostly successful. Good luck hunting. If that room is stubborn you will need to raise pressure to purge. PM for phone number if you need me to help talk you through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Culver that room has a good bleeder valve. Hunter I will if I have any problems. I was thinking the same thing about the pressure. appreciate the help guys! 4 hrs and counting till I blow NYC and hit the highway........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culvercreek hunt club Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 Dump some air then go dump a big buck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
First-light Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Love it!!! I hope so brother I hope so........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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