Jump to content

Lap rings to mount scope?


Recommended Posts

So there's lots one can do to mount a scope well. You can use a torque screw driver to tighten mount screws evenly. You can use non-permanent thread lock to keep screws from loosening. Use torx head screws that don't strip easy and good grip on the head. Probably least common though is using alignment tools and lapping the scope rings for perfect alignment and max grip. Im curious. Any of you do this stuff?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always use locktight and just recently bought a torque wrench....as far as alignment, I put an old scope in the rings when I tighten up the the rings and bases, then I put in the new scope......that being said, I never did any of that for the longest time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hex type or torx head screws are a good idea as they don't strip easily.  Other than that, the alignment tool is good for twist in rings, but any good 1 inch pipe will work well.  Unless you're a perfectionist, really not needed for hunting accuracy.  You'd have to be pretty far off to bend a scope, and you'd see it when you put the scope in the rings.

 

A bench rest shooter may want to use everything he can to eliminate any variables, but a hunter need not worry so much.  Just be sure the scope is snug enough not to move when the rifle is fired and the screws stay tight.

 

P.S.  Using a level to make sure the scope is level with the action is a good idea.  It does effect long range shots if it's off.

 

 

Edited by Mr VJP
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So there's lots one can do to mount a scope well. You can use a torque screw driver to tighten mount screws evenly. You can use non-permanent thread lock to keep screws from loosening. Use torx head screws that don't strip easy and good grip on the head. Probably least common though is using alignment tools and lapping the scope rings for perfect alignment and max grip. Im curious. Any of you do this stuff?

 

I do it all. Why, just because that is how I learned, and if you are gonna do it, might as well be right.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

dbHunterNY,

 

Your post brings up a very good question.

 

Because I am very detail oriented when it come to long range shooting I have lapped the rings on all my center fire rifle scopes to insure maximum contact of the bottom ring.  You only need to do it to the bottom ring to get a rock solid mount.  A short Midway video shows why its a good idea:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWv7SiBheV0   For my shotgun slug guns and muzzleloaders I have been using Warne weaver type rings these ring don't lend themselves to lapping but are sufficiently well machined that I seem to get a solid grip on the scope.  I notice from year to year during sight-in that the zero on the lapped scopes changes less.  You have the most control to insure a tight rock solid mount with intimate mechanical contact when you lap.  When you don't lap you are at the mercy of the ring manufacturers and to a certain degree to the scope tube manufacturer. 

 

I use the non-permanent Loctite that you mentioned for locking in the bases.  I agree that torx head screws are very good although hex socket head screws work well as long as the hex tip of your screw driver is made of good steel.  In this regard, I found a good gunsmith screwdriver kit is well worth the investment. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've mounted a lot of scopes. Never used a torque screw driver. Just use a little lock tight (blue not red) & you will be fine. 

Dove tail rings should be aligned. There are tools for this but I just use a 1" dowel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dbHunterNY,

 

Your post brings up a very good question.

 

Because I am very detail oriented when it come to long range shooting I have lapped the rings on all my center fire rifle scopes to insure maximum contact of the bottom ring.  You only need to do it to the bottom ring to get a rock solid mount.  A short Midway video shows why its a good idea:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWv7SiBheV0   For my shotgun slug guns and muzzleloaders I have been using Warne weaver type rings these ring don't lend themselves to lapping but are sufficiently well machined that I seem to get a solid grip on the scope.  I notice from year to year during sight-in that the zero on the lapped scopes changes less.  You have the most control to insure a tight rock solid mount with intimate mechanical contact when you lap.  When you don't lap you are at the mercy of the ring manufacturers and to a certain degree to the scope tube manufacturer. 

 

I use the non-permanent Loctite that you mentioned for locking in the bases.  I agree that torx head screws are very good although hex socket head screws work well as long as the hex tip of your screw driver is made of good steel.  In this regard, I found a good gunsmith screwdriver kit is well worth the investment. 

 

Warne rings are great. Have them on my Muzzy and slug gun as well. They are rock solid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hex type or torx head screws are a good idea as they don't strip easily.  Other than that, the alignment tool is good for twist in rings, but any good 1 inch pipe will work well.  Unless you're a perfectionist, really not needed for hunting accuracy.  You'd have to be pretty far off to bend a scope, and you'd see it when you put the scope in the rings.

 

A bench rest shooter may want to use everything he can to eliminate any variables, but a hunter need not worry so much.  Just be sure the scope is snug enough not to move when the rifle is fired and the screws stay tight.

 

P.S.  Using a level to make sure the scope is level with the action is a good idea.  It does effect long range shots if it's off.

 

Perfectionist, yeah that is me. I need, have to have, the smallest groups possible. I don't even know why, but getting there is fun.

 

Question about the level though. If you mount the scope and the elevation settings are close to the middle of  the scopes range, is it not level?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Perfectionist, yeah that is me. I need, have to have, the smallest groups possible. I don't even know why, but getting there is fun.

 

Question about the level though. If you mount the scope and the elevation settings are close to the middle of  the scopes range, is it not level?

 

Ford,  Sounds like you do a good job with installing your optics.   I agree its all fun and a good challenge.

 

I have used shims a few times when I could not mount the scope without going near the maximum and minimum elevation settings. The addition of the shims got me back to the center region of the scopes adjustment range. For convenience I use ready made shims made by Hart Barrels.  Their barrels are more than I can afford but their shims are just a few cents each.

 

  The worst problem I ever had with a mounting a scope was mounting one on a misaligned cantilever shotgun barrel.  The cantilever ramp was so badly out of parallelism that the scope, even with several thick shims was in the stops of its elevation setting and still would not zero.  I returned the cantilever barrel to the manufacturer, they agreed and replaced the barrel.   

Edited by adkbuck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...