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Geting a jump on coyote equipment and methods

Jaeger

By Jaeger,
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Jaeger Newbie

Jaeger

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As the title says, I'd like to start this thread about coyote trapping and getting a jump on getting the equipment ready.

 

Our local pack is ravaging everthing in site, no rabbits, no wood chucks, fox are scared or killed off.  And I on here at 6 am because the local pack has been howling every night from 11:30-2:30 keeping the dog barking and me not sleeping.

 

Ok, I do have a reason to midly put, dislike them right now.

 

But, snow depth permitting, I will be running my coyote line again this winter.

 

I ve got about 6 4-spring coil spring foot holds MB-650's inside laminated from Adirondack outdoors along with some no name 2 coils.  I've also got some great drags and chains along with disposable stakes.

 

Opening question, would you put in disposable stakes along trails now while the ground is unfrozen or just wait till after deer season and use drags.

 

 

I'd like to continue with other topics as well, such as location choices, baits, lures and visual enticements.  

 

I'm in the experimental bobcat zone so I'd better get down to the dec to get the permit, just in case.  I'd hate to have to release one.

 

Let's get started, any equipment or methods discussions welcome.  War stories as well.

 

Jaeger

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stoneam2006 Newbie

stoneam2006

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I used number 2s last year with 24 inch rebar and lost a few....switched to Bridger 2 dogless with earth ancors this year to try and get ar them again..i watched a demo at the trapping show in Frankfort this past weekend and the guy said he likes to over burry his traps for k9s said the crater causes the yote to commit to the pan better causing a complete foot hold. Seemed logical so I will be trying that....I personally only set a limited number before deer season anyway....hope to see more responses on this also

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Jaeger Newbie

Jaeger

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Shawnhu- do hunt them, have a post on .22 hornet going elsewhere.

 

Stoneam2006, When do you anticipate setting in your earth anchors?  I'm thinkin in putting some in along historic travel trails pre deer season/ground freeze and leaving the loop end exposed to I can hook them up after deer season and frozen ground if  it looks promising.

 

Good idea about the K9 proofing.  Let's keep those idea going as most of us have k9's in our areas.

 

 Wilderness trapping is something I'd love to do but I live in farm country and lets face it, nowadays the coyotes are closer to home.

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Doc Proficient

Doc

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It's been many decades since I ran a trapline, so I'm not up on the laws anymore. But is there any problem with doing summer jobs like constructing dirthole sets (without the trap of course) before the season, or maybe setting up scent-posts just to acclimate the coyotes to them before an actual trap is set? Maybe even put in some stakes or drags in preparation for when the season opens. That would be one way of getting a jump on setting up a coyote line, if it's legal.

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Water Rat Mentor

Water Rat

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I used to trap the fields of loosestrife near my old house. In the summer , I would take my weed whacker and make 10' trap circles down to the bare ground. The fox and coyotes would hunt these areas looking for mice and voles. The trap circle will be littered with their scat. When the season opened , I would make my set and always double stake them with rebar in an X formation. The great thing about it was they were out of sight when they were caught. Unfortunately , this is just a memory now. The area I trapped now is Walmart , Westage Business Center and the Fishkill Outlet.

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PREDATE Newbie

PREDATE

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The less time spent at a set coupled with less scent left behind will only be to your benefit. If you have a few spots nailed down already then by all means I recommend installing some earth anchors now. You could even leave a few Ziploc bags of dry/sifted dirt nearby so you'll have it when you go to make your set. This early prep will save you from carrying it all in your basket on opening day.

Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk

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Jaeger Newbie

Jaeger

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The less time spent at a set coupled with less scent left behind will only be to your benefit. If you have a few spots nailed down already then by all means I recommend installing some earth anchors now. You could even leave a few Ziploc bags of dry/sifted dirt nearby so you'll have it when you go to make your set. This early prep will save you from carrying it all in your basket on opening day.

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That was what I was thinking.

 

If I dig in earth anchors now and put in depressions, by the time trapping season roll around the scent will be gone and I won't have to spend as much time at each set when I put the MB's in and cover them.

 

Just got to get the locations right, say 3-4 feet off multi-trail intersections.  

 

Any anti-freeze (not the car type you guys!!) advice for the pan tension/pan pivot? graphite?  What do you set your pan tension at?

 

I've got great MB drags, but hesitate to use them when there's a lot of snow.

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PREDATE Newbie

PREDATE

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Good idea about the K9 proofing.  Let's keep those idea going as most of us have k9's in our areas.

 

 

When stoneam2006 mentioned dogless, he was referring to a type of trap; it has nothing to do with K9 proofing.

 

I set pan tension by feel, but 2lbs is a good starting point.

Trap bed antifreeze can come in many forms from table salt, calcium chloride, propylene glycol, waxed dirt, vermiculite, peat moss,etc. I've even heard of folks using antifreeze that you put in RV's and vacant homes to keep water lines from freezing.

  What type of cover/terrain will you be trapping?

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Jaeger Newbie

Jaeger

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When stoneam2006 mentioned dogless, he was referring to a type of trap; it has nothing to do with K9 proofing.

 

I set pan tension by feel, but 2lbs is a good starting point.

Trap bed antifreeze can come in many forms from table salt, calcium chloride, propylene glycol, waxed dirt, vermiculite, peat moss,etc. I've even heard of folks using antifreeze that you put in RV's and vacant homes to keep water lines from freezing.

  What type of cover/terrain will you be trapping?

With all due respect, the part of his post I responded to was:

 

"the guy said he likes to over burry his traps for k9s said the crater causes the yote to commit to the pan better causing a complete foot hold."

 

He was talking about setting for coyotes, I was wrong in thinking it was domestic dog proofing, I think you were overthinking it thinking he was refering to the "dogless" type of trap.(unless you were referring to the previous line about dogless traps, sorry)  Sometimes I read, or respond to a post too fast!!

 

Thanks for the pan tension information.  I'm worried about using propylene glyco type antifreeze in areas of domestic dog populations, it attracts them and is poisionous to them.  I go with one of the others.

 

I'll be trapping in the hills along stream beds and deer trails, last year thats where they were with all the snow.  Down by the streams it's not too rocky, mostly pine cover.  But up in the hardwoods it's all rock, so I'll use some drags.

 

I would still like to hear about how to set for coyotes in areas of domestic dog populations though.

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Jaeger Newbie

Jaeger

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If your canine trapping in an area with free ranging dogs , you will eventually catch one.

It's inevitable.

That's what I'm thinking.

 

The best I could do would be to check traps twice daily, say morning and late evening.  It's pretty rural and I know most of the local dogs/owners.  Hunters all.  So I'll put the word out, they want the coyotes gone as well.

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Jaeger Newbie

Jaeger

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I'm on all private land, but some dogs (including mine) are fairly free to roam.  I keep watch on her but it's the others I worry about.

 

Pre-baiting sounds interesting.  If it stays warm enough, I could also wait until one of our crew gets a deer and set up near the gut pile.

 

I forget, do I wax and redye my land only traps?  Or is it the other way around wax the water traps?  I have the stuff to do it.

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PREDATE Newbie

PREDATE

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Be careful setting too close to a carcass/gut pile, or any other exposed fur or meat. Traps can't be set within something like 25ft. This is so you don't catch birds that come in to feed. You can make blind sets on the trails leading to the pile.

Waxing isn't really needed for water traps, it is mostly to prevent k9s(Fox & yotes) from smelling human scent and the smell of metal.

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Kludes Newbie

Kludes

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And find spots on your property were every coyote and fox is gonna step like we're logs obstruct a path or somethin narrows it down ... I will drop a small sapling across a path bye my creek and they have to step over it and 90% use the same spot every time for the foot .. just get use to were the gather to step over and we're they are stepping over too ... blind set will catch the most and the wisest

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turkeyfeathers Veteran

turkeyfeathers

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A demo I watched in Frankfort last weekend the guy swore by calcium chloride I may give it a try....I am also interested in seeing if there is any way to try and avoid domestic dogs...interesting idea

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Waxed dirt also works very well. There's some youtube videos on how to make it

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