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To spray or not to spray


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We're in the process of planting our first food plots.  We bought a ford 8n last year and have picked up a 2 bottom plow, set of 6' discs, and a 5' brush hog recently.   

Last week we brush hogged the fields we planned on planting.  We were going to buy a 'tractor supply' 25 gallon sprayer with 8' boom to spray the fields with herbicide before plowing and disking, but then we've been hearing that maybe spraying isn't necessary if we're going to plow and disc. 

Does anyone have experience with what different results we can expect?  Are we wasting our time and money by buying a sprayer and herbicide and doing all that extra work?  Any input would be appreciated.  Fyi we’re planning on planting clover in these 2 half acres plots. 

Eslerman

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I talked to several people that have made food plots and some say na why spend the $$$. Others told me and also Iwhen I read it sure seems a step to take to keep the weeds down and give you a better foood plot. I am interested to see what feedback you get. I had made several food plots years ago on a old logging raod  and just put in the seed after usinga steel rake. I got a mixed bad of food plot and also some very mixs of weeds.

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well if you plow and disc and disc again 10-14 days later you can eliminate 90% of the weeds. if you then drag and  plant it immediatly  with a fast growning grain like winter wheat/oats/rye and mix it together with clover you'll have a good clover plot next spring or fall. the oats/grain out compete the weeds and shade them out,giving the clover a chance to grow in the shade(they prefer cooler weather). you'll need to mow the clover 3-4 times over the next year to keep compeating grasses out. If your planting corn/sunflowers/sorgum a sprayer is nice to kill off compatition before planting. the thing you did by brush hogging now is spread seed around all grasses and most weeds have gone to head.. it needs to germinate before you spray or your wasting your $. some weed seeds remain viable foe up to 100 years in the soil. mowing will knock out 99% of your weeds if your vigilent in mowing the 1st year of a clover crop is the most important. mow the tops of grasses off before it starts to head or seed. you may have to do it 3-4 times from end of may thru july. weed control is possible without spraying but it is more time consuming than spraying.

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I'm not a fan of spraying only because I dont want to add chemicals into my soil and or chemicals that might leach into my stream. Having said that as far as planting clover keep clover fields mowed to about 6 inches in height and they typically will out compete weeds. I also plant a brassica plot each year in middle of July that will be utilized as a fall/winter plot, what I do is plow under that field in the beginning of  July and let that sit for 2-3 weeks which for the most part will kill all grasses/weeds, then I'll come back and disc the plot , harrow the plot, add my fertilizer and lime,  harrow again, then add my brassica seeds....this system has worked well thus far for me without the use of chemicals.........In the picture, to the right is a clover plot and left is a fall turnip plot. Best of luck, keep us posted on your progress.

post-18-131455468518_thumb.jpg

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Heres my story and Im sticking to it.  From experience I can say that plowing alone is only going to deter the weeds and in short order they will take over again.  I went through this with all my food plots the first go around.  Now after saying that even after you herbacide an area you  will get weed growth within a year.  There are dormant roots and seeds still alive under that dirt.  Also if you brush hogged already you would have to wait for the leaves to regrow before you can spray to have any effect worth the effort.  I will tell you my process and have had great success doing it this way with new never planted plots. Get a soil sample to the co-op, I herbacide the area,  wait till plants die, then I brush hog and york rake the debree of the plot, I then turn the soil over with a 2 bottom plow, drag it smooth and by now the soil test results should be back,  I then apply pulvarized ag lime wich is usually 2 to 3 tons per acre skip the soil test and your wasting your time, then I lightly drag the lime into the soil, after 45 to 60 days for the lime to take effect I fertilize according to the soil test.  Cross my finger for some rain and then a few weeks later around the 1st to 2nd weekend of August I will plant an annual seed,  In the spring I will send out another soil sample to the co-op so I can fine tune the lime and fertilizer,  come late spring early summer those dormant weeds and seeds will show that are still in the plot and I will herbicide and after those die I will turn the soil again and wait for the soil test results to come back.  ONce they are back I will fine tune the soil and come August I will then plant a perenial seed.  I just got done with my last plot today doing just this and next August it will be ready for the perenial.  Too many times I have seen guys put in a ton of work, skip a soil sample, skip the herbacide and have less than ideal result, did it myself once or twice.  It is alot of work and takes alot of time and needs to be planned out accordingly to get the fall planting in on time. Next time Im down to camp I will take some pictures of 3 food plots that are in the same field, 2 where herbacided and done exacally how I explained and one was just plowed, limed fertalized and seeded with a perenial and it is full of weeds after 2 seasons even with mowing it on a regular basis to keep the level of the clover down to 6 to 8 inches.  If you already brush hogged and have done the soil test your best bet at this point is to stick an annual in the ground like oats and hope for the best and come spring plan it out to get the best bang for your time and money you are spending.  I skipped paying the money for a commercial sprayer and I just put a 12v bilge pump in a 5 gallon pail and ran a hose to a pvc pipe I capped on both ends and drilled small holes in it for the sprayer head.  Put a lid on the bucket and strapped it on the 4 wheeler.  Hole thing cost me less than 30 bucks.  Good luck do it once and do it right is my motto.

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I should also say that if you are only going to plant an annual seed yearly then skipping the herbacide would be okay as your are only going to turn the soil over again come spring.  In this process of anually plowing the ground and replanting the weeds should be pretty much under control with a food plot seed dominating the field for a short time.  But with planting an anuual those things are going to show themselves in short order and you will end up with a plot that has been overtaken by weeds within a couple years time. 

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wdswtr...is saying it right....if you are unsure ...just Google ...how long do weed seeds survive....and you may be surprised over 80 yrs for some...it really is impossible to kill 90% in one season and each year you happen to go just a bit deeper...because the soil is now loose....more will come up and when you chopping up weed roots into little pieces...well some of those weeds propagate ...from root cuttings....now you have a mess

It's fine to do what is stated above..... and the field is worked all spring through summer....not giving anything a chance to grow,,,but I'd still go with annuals first year or two...to really save time and money down the road IMO and experience ...good luck

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  • 1 month later...

couldn't have said it any better than the last two posts. Especially the thoughts of planting annuals the first year and then come back with the perrenials the second. Thats the method we use on our hunting plots and also for our clients. It's not impossible to get perrenials to come out fairly weed free on the first yr. but more than likely you'll be fighting those weeds for the first yr. or two. Eventually with proper care the clover will dominate the weeds and thrive. Mowing being the most critical step. I like to use Brassicas that first year as their big leaves keep the dirt almost bare underneath. And the deer love them late season. Also don't skip the soil sample and try to follow the recomendations as close as you can. As a matter of fact if the report calls for twice as much nutrients as your budget will allow you to spend, then i would rather cut the plot in half and have it at it's healthiest best than to cut the nutrients and end up wasting your time. Healthy plantings vs. weeds-- planting usually win. Nutrient starved plants vs. weeds-- Weeds almost always win...

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