eagle rider

Here are a few pics. Both rifles in the first pics are Mk I (Belgian guns). The difference is that the one with the oiled stock and plain receiver is a Grade I, the one with the lacquered furniture and engraved receiver is a Grade II. There is nothing like them. The basic concept for their as system is very close to John Browning's 1918 design. Simple, yet efficient. I will say they are among the loudest rifles I have ever heard report out.

Those were live eel catches. The big one barfed up the feel, it was still squiring.... didn't want to waste the little guy so I fished him again. Blue fish got his the second time, only left me the head on the hook.

they are all strippers. The are good. Its a white meat fish.

The big one was 41 pounds. The smaller was 35.

I used this stuff tonight to clean 4 rifles two of which had a fair amount of bench time today. So I expected them to be long to clean. I tried Hopes Elite Foaming Cleaner on a whim. This stuff is great. Cut my cleaning down to 8 to 10 minutes a rifle instead of the usual 30 min / gun. Get the stuff. My routine was: Foam the barrel and let it stand for about an hour. Then brush out the barrel aggressively 10 or 15 strokes. Run a couple of dry patches through the barrel and get the fouling out, you'll be amazed to see what they look like. Then use wet patches of #9. By the third patch it was coming out the same color as it went it. $9 at Walmart for a pump can of it. Each barrel took two suits of the foam. That was two 270's, a 7mm Mag, and a 30-06.

Update..... I have the rifle now. The gas system was pretty well fouled. I had to use a punch to get the piston from the cylinder. It was throughly gunned up. Turned a Chinese soup continuer filled with #9 black. Got the gun functioning well. I took it to the range. It was a single shot for the first 10 rounds until she loosened up a bit. She cycles nicely. Shoots an 1.25" at 100 yds (3 shot groups). Not as good as my Grade 1 BAR, but plenty good for a semi-auto deer rifle. I'll put some pics of it up tomorrow. I just cleaned it and put it back in the safe.

I might know someone that is seriously looking. PM you info.

you'll leave nice long streaks of copper in your barrel.... very pretty.

This was yesterday!

yes please send that one as well. I'll be up in Dutch next week.

please send the contact info my way.

long island (suffolk county)

Local guy is no longer around. I need some simple work, two recoil pads to be installed. Stock cut to match existing LOP and pad ground to fit. Any recommendations welcome. Seeing internet prices well into the mid $100's for this!

absolutely disagree, our club leases 1900 acres and do more for deer conservation efforts / deer management than any single owner could afford to or have time to do. We hunt our tags as well. What I mean tags are used as they are issued and legal bucks are taken when opportunity presents. I don't want to go off track and make this a QDM thread. Rather just focus on how lessors take care of and manage their leases.

here's my $.02. The next generation process to Duracoat is Cerakote. It is a electrolytic process that chemically bonds a ceramic paint resins to metal. It is very tough, and doesn't thin as Duracoat will overtime. Although some say that it can chip if not applied correctly. There is also no DIY kits for that. Its the process that TC uses for their Weathershield finishes. I have it on two TC Prohunter Muzzleloaders. It's tough as nails and hunts in the worst of all conditions. Literally all you do is wipe the barrel. So I'd say Cera over Dura. Even better than that is just having a barrel Black Oxide processed. Like blueing it is an oxidation process. No paint of any kind. Many smiths offer it. I had a Benelli barrel and action done for my son a few years back this way. The finish is perfect, uniform look and it is tougher than regular matte blue, perfect for the goose blind. It has sort of a rough texture to it. By that I mean not as sheen as a gloss blue, a lot closer to a matte or parkerized level of smoothness. Also, just wipe the gun off when it comes inside. It does not scratch. I had a 30-06 700 built for me by Red Hawk Rifles many years ago with some poker winnings that has historically been the rifle I reach for. They did the barrel, bolt and action metal in this process. It isn't anything sexy to look at, but it holds up better than anything I've ever seen or heard of.

Seeing this season's trail camera pics posted so far from the DMU's that are 3 on a side, plus a winter that wasn't literally a killer.... I am seeing a difference in rack and body size of what we were calling shooters on this forum compared to a couple of years back. Anyone else noticing this.

3.5 year old body 4.5 year old head mass. He's a shooter in my book.

oh he's a shooter! Hook with him in the daylight!

The uniform alignment has me thinking gps repeater used by surveyors. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My main concern is the gas system. I can likely strip it enough to do what you said.... will kerosine damage the blueing?

heres my $.02, first off Paula's advice is good. Other than that, what I consider is false distance, trigger speed and most of how easy the darn thing is to program. I like Moultrie Camera's but it takes a bit to figure out their software prompts. Images are great and they are easy on battery life. My camera's are in for almost four months before they get checked.

they look like GPS Surveyor repeaters. Surveyors and map makes use gear that looks like that. Can tell from the pic if there is anything inside of them. If they're hollow or not.

Happy Sunday y'all! So my local shop cals me a week ago, he's got a 1970 Mk I, Grade II 30-06. Rifle is 95% plus. Has Leopold B & R installed, and old Bushnell scope which is destined for the trash can. I will replace with Leopold VX1 or Burris Drop tine, to be decided. The original magazine is in the rifle (glad its there but I have plenty of spares as well). It has one speck of rest, not through the steel, on the forward part of the receiver where the barrel threads in on the left side of the slab. It's smaller than a rifle primer in diameter, and I know I can cold blue it out. Scroll engraving on the action is still sharp. The action cycles well, feeds, extracts and ejects with authority (snap caps only). The rifling is deep and sharp with no muzzle wear and the wood is perfect. He let me get my hands on it for $700. Naturally I jumped at it. Similar guns on line in that shape are all north of $1,000. This will make #2 in the collection, the other is a 1968 Grade 1. I should have her home this week coming. I just need to make time to get there. I will replace the action spring and buffer just cause they are 40 plus years old. That's been ordered from gunparts.com already. I have been hearing that in these old late 60's early 70's Mk I's Browning chromed the piston but not the gas cylinder and that can become a fail point in some guns. Most guy's from, what I hear wrap oiled fine (000) steel wool or emory cloths around around a wood dowel and use that to pull any grit and early rough spots out of the cylinder. Some guys use Flitz compound on patches and polish with that, then flush it out with a good solvent like #9. That all makes sense and I will do that the next time I have my Mk I's apart. My question is after I do that, what can I use to condition the steel inside the cylinder? Is a light oil or a teflon infused gun oil okay (Hopes T3 Elite)? My guess is that it has to withstand high temperatures without gumming up. Would a gun grease work inside there. Again, I'm looking to help preserve and condition the metal. Thoughts and wisdom always appreciated.

Is the hunting good in the glades over there? I've heard the Pan Handle has great deer hunting, although its the Redneck Rivera up there!!! I have a place in Pompano, just south of you. I fish out of there.

Where in the sunshine state are you? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk