jjb4900

true, but, I would think if you were giving advice to a group of people and assuming they were just buying a gun for home protection and they had no intention of practicing much, I would say shotgun, 12 or 20 won't make much difference............obviously on a board like this the answers are coming from people we assume can handle a pretty broad range of guns, so the answers will vary and probably won't be a wrong answer to be found.

the person behind the weapon probably plays as much of a role, if not more, into successfully defending yourself than the weapon does.........

I doubt anyone would be calm while going through something like that, but since you said "trust me", I assume you're talking from experience...

a shotgun loaded with buckshot would probably be the best choice for most...........I doubt the average person has the training or nerves to calmly shoot another person, and the biggest pattern is probably best.

you sure that the added 1 3/4 isn't for arrow length?

can animals even be held at fault for their actions?

I think the guy is an absolute idiot for making that video public.........I assume that if it was taken out of season and without a license there will be some type of investigation, really can't tweak your story when you'rs dumb enough to put the entire encounter out for the world to see.

my mistake, I mistakenly typed in string stop instead of draw stop.

if you're concerned about a .22 being inefficient, why would you then choose a single shot? unless you're certain there will always be just one unarmed assailant.......

is it because more hunters put down their compound or recurve and picked up a crossbow, or because that many more people entered the sport? If 50% of NY archers drop their old bows and grab a crossbow it will have the same effect....which would just be a number on a sheet of paper and not more numbers actually hunting.

I've seen a lot of livestock put down with a .22......although it was all point blank and had to be put in the right spot, it was nothing less than devastating

The Hoyt Tribute is another modern bow without stops, it's an adult bow designed for finger shooters..........so they're out there, and I'm sure there's more.

there's a few entry level youth bows that don't have them........Matthews Genesis is one in particular that comes to mind........and of course if you remove a part off a bow that it's supposed to have it's gonna be a problem. kinda like taking the brakes off your car, would you be shocked when it didn't stop?

I didn't hunt them either, but I will say I saw quite a few in 4W and 4R.....enough where it would have been worthwhile to do so.

The problem is, because of your success and good salary, you will be taxed more to pick up the slack for others......kinda sad when those who are successful have to be punished for being such..if the cost of living goes up that's fine, I'm willing to pay my share, but to have to foot the bill for others is unacceptable.

exactly......enough said. But then again some have no problem with others picking up their tab.

and to jump back to the original poster who was asking about buying a used bow, if he was to pick up an older bow from a less than knowledgeable person, that was supposed to be shot at a 29" draw length and he needs a 30" draw length, he could easily get something that may be wrong for him......add to that string stretch and a bow that can be pulled a little ways past what it's set at and he could think he's getting a bow that fits him when he's really not.

I don't think you could get that much more of a draw out of it and at that point you would probably have to excert a noticeable more amount of strength to get it that far back ....but easily an inch without noticeable problems, not the way it's meant to be shot, but on older style bows, one could easily be slightly under or overdrawing their bow and that can be easily done with the addition of an accessory that should warrant an anchor point change, and if someone isn't aware that some type of change is necessary they're either not getting the max out of the bow or over stressing it.........luckily draw stops have eliminated a lot of that.

simple, the bow doesn't have stops........it's supposed to be shot at a 29" draw, the extra draw must be gained by rolling the cams past where they should stop or by flexing the limbs past where they should stop. It's obviously not proper, but that particular bow has the ability for someone to slightly overdraw it.....I'm assuming your bow has stops, if they were removed, I bet you would be able to draw the bow past where it is intended to stop.

another reason to either have the knowledge to set your bow up properly or find someone to help you......how many add a D-Loop, change releases or make any other changes and don't adjust to it?

DL was set by having your bow set up properly for you, I have a pretty old PSE that is set for 29" and that's how it should be shot, however it easily has another inch or so of play where it can be drawn back farther because it has no stops.....not sure if that is bad for the bow or not, but that's how many older bows work....I now have a new Hoyt with the stops and that can't be done.

what stopped that from happening on older type bows without stops, was having your bow set up properly, as long as your draw length was set properly it's not a problem...if you had a bow with too short a draw length it could be overdrawn, but that's pretty much a problem of the past.....anchor point has something to do with draw cycle stopping because that's where the shooter stops drawing, I'm sure there are some with older type bows without stops who are not drawing the bow back properly.

I have to agree.....can't see anyone arguing that one.

as you just found out, the most important thing to stay away from is advice from the internet...........

it's Obama's way of stealing from the rich to give to the poor...much like the way he taxes us.