dbHunterNY

I also use McNett self adhering snow camo tape for equipment.

I'm surprised more people don't hunt with snow camo. it really works later in the season. I've setup in the middle of a wide open alfalfa field the deer were crossing through. I was sitting just in the middle next to a patch of ledge and 2.5 ft tall thin grass and with the sun at my back. a ton of deer crossed right in front of me in a wide open 30 acre field within 30 yards.

sounds like you need to just go with some seclusion winter cover ups from cabelas. they breathe because they're just a coverup. if you hit a sunny south side of a mountain with no snow strip them off and you're good to go. you can pick up a few or more for the cost of one set of camo and you should be layering with fleece anyway. they've worked well for me. just my thoughts.

every bow is different even from the same manufacturer. I definitely agree that certain brands hold value better but within reason. as you said bow resale sucks. big time too. worse than vehicles. At his price range a Mathews bow isn't going to hold much more value for much longer. we're talking the first handful of years the thing is in existence that it will. I really haven't had much brand loyalty in the past so I've shot a lot of them, more money doesn't always equal a better bow. I will say they are quality bows but it yea.... in general those specs I listed will give you the round of the mill hunting rig that has plenty speed but not enough to break into the less forgiving and slightly harsher drawing speed bow category. you won't get burned canting the bow and can have nice anchor points too compared to your super short bows. I've passed on a few bows and changing of draw length without worrying about ordering other modules or cams and strings is worth a lot especially the older the bow gets.

Anything newer 330fps IBO, 32+ inch axle to axle, 6.5"+ brace height will be a sweet shooter. Bows like PSE bows can adjust draw length without buying anything else so you can pass it on or resell it easier.

I have a Stan shootoff four finger. I like it. Wish it wasn't chrome so I could use it more for hunting. Very clean breaking trigger. For spots is almost want a 3 finger but for hunting four is good.

We had a piebald doe on the farm for years. She was white 2/3 up her back.

that list will expand by 100 times before the end of your third season. a lot you have to learn for yourself to really understand. important thing that limits most hunters is they don't apply what they learn year after year. they hunt a way that's convenient or easy.

shooting arrows off the shelf. I shoot full length Goldtip traditional hunter 5575's (.400 spine) with 5" feathers, 100gr brass insert, and 20gr screw-in insert weight. all that is tipped with a Hellrazor 100gr head. FOC is around 16-17% and weight is about 540gr. I'd get 45 lbs limbs and have the bow tuned with arrows you can hunt with. that way you used to the same setup you'll possibly hunt with. it's like throwing a baseball. if I give you a ball, a little different, say a softball, it'll throw a little different too.

you can get broadheads larger enough that I don't think they're required. also arrows are expensive enough without this stuff. also how do you tune or practice with your bow without shooting them and wearing them out? not really inclined to use them.

put a protection cage around a small spot in the middle and you'll see what I mean.

a secluded plot that's not even a tenth of an acre will get too much grazing and stress from the deer. there won't be anything left once they start to hit it.

my wife had an '08 Diamond Edge. I had an '07 Gander Mountain Techunter Elite (made by Diamond) My cousin has a Diamond Outlaw and before that had a Diamond Edge. ...they all weren't bad bows at all. Actually my Techunter Elite was the bow I chose after shooting everything out there. I was very good for the time.

yea.... unless they keep getting harassed then they will be there again at some point. a deer has many bedding areas but prefer some much more than others. later in the season it's south facing slopes with warmth and browse. also beds that don't see a lot of people or predator traffic.

hahaha! ... then it better be heated and serve free drinks. not hardly... they do that in Oklahoma where I've hunted before. there's a scale and gambrel to weigh your deer say in town near a convenience store or gas station. they hold the sign-in book so when you go in to check your deer you end up buying some snack food and a drink, and/or gas. you're not open throughout the night either just hours after dark. it could work with other businesses for that matter. point being that it benefits both the business and DEC's need have a separate check station in that area. Before any goes bashing a system like that do research first.... it works.

what I'd like to see ideally?...... I'd like to see 15" outside spread (or antler width) and minimum 3 points on BOTH sides. 2 bucks person is fine to be used any time during the season with legal weapon and privilege for that respective season. Same as it is now you'd only get your 2nd buck tag if you buy another privilege other than just your big game license. also you have to check a deer (buck or doe) in. there you have to weigh it and put down basic info in a sign-in book similar to voter sign-in book and then you get your carcass tag. Any antlerless only tag can be transferred to another hunter. hunter can fill maximum of 2 of each type of tag. everything else stays the same. This would allow successful hunters to spread the wealth easier to the average Joe (buying just a regular season buck tag), make doe harvesting easier but still controlled. DEC gets more accurate harvest data, opposed to relying on the honor system of phone reporting after you tag a buck. Also the antler restriction would protect almost all 1.5 year olds and a few 2 year olds which is sound deer management that'll improve health and hunting experience. ....trust me when I say the above isn't just based on my own pondering alone.

one could contemplate if rules were different all day & every day. bottom line is rules are rules. almost all of them having a valid reason for being what they are. breaking the rule is only that... breaking the rule. horrible part of it is by breaking rules that the rest of us follow, they're selfishly putting themselves above the rest of us, in the sense that they can do it but we're not supposed to. it most definitely would make that person a jerk in every sense of the word. that's the worst part of the whole offense.

didn't really read through all this.... I can definitely say that the Pheasant thing isn't really the same as relocated birds in say the Dakotas. When we raised them we tried to keep fields worth of habitat but eventually none survived. habitat here in the northeast just isn't conducive to sustaining a population. it's not the same as a wild pheasant hunt out in west. the only way to do it would be to release them just before the hunt. not really hunting them so much as target practice. I'd rather shoot clay pigeons. based on the food and time caring for them I'd say it's a heck of a lot cheaper. they weren't wild either. sure you can get a dog to flush them but if you kept the dog calm they would land right on your atv handlebars or rack and stare at ya. especially the roosters as they're more curious and territorial.

read the Preparing and shipping section over real good before you extract the center incisors or M1 molars. you don't want to screw them up.

only have taken a deer with my dad's Winchester Model 94 30-30. he took his first deer with it, then bought it back from someone after he sold it, I then shot my first deer with it, and my brother shot his first deer with it.

seasonally different roost spots but historically spots will see birds each year around the same time.

haven't been that bad this year where I've been. catch them early. when you come in for the day... strip down and check yourself over good. I also shed outer layers into a Ziploc big bag before getting into vehicle.

I've hunted with my hunter class 3D / backup hunting bow this year. it's got an HHA with a dial. seems to work well and I've grown to like that sight. I've typed a more in depth response for other times this question has been asked. it's a certain configuration to work for both uses well.

no idea.... all I know is I used to use screw steps but here and there they'd get ahead of me. tree would grow into them too much to unscrew them. also you need a lot of them. when you unscrew them a little or take them out and put them back in they aren't as tight. now I use individual climbing sticks and they're way easier. that's on private land. on public land I always use my climber as it's less to haul into a spot. if you leave anything it gets stolen. also it doesn't tip others off to where you're hunting. it will kill the tree eventually on public land because you have to remove them after each season.

awesome! I'd think you're mounting it? I'd tell the taxidermist that you want the jaw bones. send me pictures or post on here and I'll look at them as well as get other reliable opinions. looks like a big deer. weigh him at all?