sailinghudson25

How is the magazine tube attached to the barrel? Can you loosen and retighten down the barrel bands. These types of guns are the complete opposite of a free floating barrel like in most bolt guns. MY 336 remingtons drift down a little bit, maybe an inch or a bit more. Post a pic of the gun. Barrels convert heat into pressure. Hotter barrels will produce a bit faster velocity, which can make the group drift high. The barrel is stretching while the magazine tube isn't. It could also be the forend wood pushing things around. Maybe reset the forend wood, if possible. Marlin mounts the scope to the receiver. I know Winchesters have had different mounts over the years.

I bought Seedway Rye Cover Crop from Agway. They sold it in what felt like a 50lb bag, but maybe it was a bushel bag. The stuff is much thicker than grass seed. Like the size of rice. Looks like wheat, but has a tan / pale light green look to it instead. I bake my own bread at home is looks exactly like the rye grain I use in the flour mill. I bought a few bags because I am putting most of it down on rough bare earth after logging. However, this small corner of my existing food plot was level clean by a front loader bucket, added 2 bags of lime and a 1/2 bag of 12-12-12, then I spread the remaining 1/2 of the cereal grains. I then spread the clover and the remaining rye and rolled it down. It barely rained at the house this morning. I am assuming the seed didn't get wet enough to wake up. So, I am going to leave it dormant until I get a good rain, then I'll water it if it doesn't rain in a day or two. The spot is roughly 20 yards wide and about 20 yards deep. I spent 3 afternoons picking a ton of rock, good exercise for sure. I am hoping the rye will be around a bit next year while the clover takes over. I mow the area roughly every 3 weeks with a lawn tractor on the highest setting.

One year I was aiming my gun at a doe. About ready to pull the trigger and burn up a doe tag. Then out of the corner of my scope I saw a nice buck. I used the buck tag instead. Would of never saw it with a 3-9x scope. Probably would of seen that buck run off alone. I have a bushnell 3200 elite 1.5-4.5x32mm scope on several rifles as well as my muzzleloader. They make an entry level model for about $150. They don't make the elite in that power anymore. I think this excellent scope was downgraded to the banner series. Lower power scopes collect more light and are naturally more brighter in low light that higher power. BDC is not needed for a muzzleloader. I zero mine at 100, put the crosshairs to the spine for a nice 150 yard broadside. Aim the crosshairs as high as the head for a nice 200 yard broadside. I am using 90 grains FFFg real blackpowder and a hornady 240gr .429" bullet in a harvester sabot. With more powder and hotter charges of more modern substitutes, you could easily put a 150 yard zero and aim for the spine for a good 200. 200 is a long way for modern blackpowder guns, but not too long. I wouldn't push it past that. I like a thick crosshair that can be readily seen for quick reaction shots, like bumping into a nice one while walking in. Also, I had a bit of fog on my scope lens one year. If I had a thin recticle scope like most are, I wouldn't of got a buck opening day a few years back. Nikon makes a nice recticle on their slughunter scope I bought a few years ago. IT's thick, but also has a shimmer to the rectile. It's almost like those holographic stickers. It changes from black to burnt orange. A very well thought out feature on that scope. I can imagine their buckmaster scope has the same kind of rectile. I've been scooping up those 1.5-4.5x32 bushnell elites when I find them on gunbroker or ebay. So, I don't know of anything particular that is currently on the market.

NY is close range. Line up the hairs quickly before they bust you. I like thick recticles. No matter what, I wouldn't shoot farther than this. Whatever the zero is, I know 2 drops. How far you can shoot by aiming at the spine and the bullet drops to a good broadside shot. Then the same for aiming as high as the head. My 450 marlin it's about 100 yard zero, then 150 yards aim at the spine, and 175 yards aim as high as the head. No need to fancy compensation recticles. I really like the bushnell 3200 firefly. A thick recticle and it glows in the dark. They don't make this model anymore, but I have a few of their 1.5-4.5x32mm models. Great scope for the price.

Oaks are good in the catskills. Hickory are OK. A little tip. IF you stand hunt up there, put some fertilizer around the canopy edge of the tree. I put down A bag of fertilizer per 3 to 4 oaks or hickory. Really wakes them up. A little lime helps too.

I finally got some time to put some seed down. Oats and Wheat litely disced in, then put some annual rye and some ladino clover on the top, then drove it over with the lawn tractor. Spot is on the north side of a big oak tree, so it is shady. My leech field is downhill of this spot too. Tuesday some rain is coming. I cleaned up a corner of my food plot, the rockiest spot in the plot. Finally built the patience to pick all those rocks out. So, it's small enough I can garden hose it. My inpaitent buddy wants his food plot done. He's real itchy to put the same stuff down I did. Hopefully I can talk him out of it until next week. I'm over in the northern catskills.

Actually, a lever gun in 375 win goes for that much unfortunately. I typically avoid gunshows and just hit gunbroker for stuff, or a local shop to puruse their used section. I got picky tastes, sometimes even pickier than a gunshow has to offer. I do go to the Albany gunshow, that's it. IT's big and local. I rarely buy anything directly related to guns though. Usually military surplus stuff, like oddball ammo can sizes. IF your ever near Easton PA, check out sarco inc. A nice bledn between gunshow and army navy store. Bought quite a few things from them over the years...

Either s 1873 or a 1892 Winchester in a easy to find caliber. Probably 38 special because it's cheap to shoot. I just like a old or reproduction old Winchester lever.

I like the more traditional muzzleloaders, however, I do have a T/C Omega and I am very happy with it when it does comes out. Never any problems carrying it, shooting it, or cleaning it. No matter what I stuff into it, it groups good.

Browning BLR in 450 marlin with 1.5-4.5x32mm bushnell scope is what comes out most often. After that a 54 cal lyman great plains rifle in flintlock ignition, it often sees rifle season. After that a glenfiled model 30 in 30-30 with lyman 66 peep sight.

Move the cameras around. Around edges of real thick stuff near cover. IF you got any tractor paths that cross spots of heavy cover, run the discs over them. Then you can see foot prints in the turned up soil. Maybe they're lurking in the thick stuff and not near the food sources.

I posted wrong, the hornady brass is about .020" shorter, not longer. Cycle the whole tube of ammo without firing, and then look at the bullets. Some guns scratch up or dent the bullet when cycling, which can be an accuracy problem in lever guns.

Pgmy, That glenfield would be the last rifle I would own If I had to get rid of all the others and I could still shoot iron sights ok. With the 4 shot tube, the beech stock, and no scope or rings, that gun feels like a kids 22 in the woods. I've done 10 mile scout runs in the woods all day long with that gun and my arms are not tired. I don't use slings, since I missed a few deer because I had the gun on my shoulder in the wrong way....... ctballos, I love brownings, but that finish on some of them can be a problem when deer hunting. Put a layer of wax on it, but don't rub it out, makes them temporarily dull.

A light trigger can cause some serious misses depending on how you shoot. The common offhand technique is to squeeze more there better the sight picture looks. You can't do that with a real light trigger. I clean up my own trigger and help others out with their rifles as well as tune flintlock locks for old muzzleloaders. Tuning up a trigger is easy to do. Many times, the trigger just needs a good cleaning, maybe take a slight burr off with some fine emery cloth or a few light passes with a stone, then put it back with some proper lubrication. Many times, that's all that is needed. Some processes in making these guns include bead blasting. I have seen several guns with some sort of sand like material in them. Many time the factory just didn't spend enough time getting all the burrs off of it. A emery board for people's nails with a touch of light motor oil is enough to clean up a burr. It's not always the sear face, sometimes it's the side of the sear where it pivots around a pin that causes problems. There is no reason you can't shoot really good groups with a clean 4lb trigger. As said before, it might be easier to shoot good groups with this trigger than some target one. Having some travel, before it breaks, and having it break cleanly with the same effort every time makes a good trigger. A few of my own rifles I have added more trigger pull to them. sometimes making the sear engagement a little more steep of an angle, or maybe just changing the tension of a trigger return spring.

I bring out a SKS from time to time with a lyman 66 peep sight on it. I have no problems hitting a 8 inch gong at 200 yards with it. However, I limit myself to 100 yards with irons and 150 yards with a scoped rifle for whitetails. It just makes an ethical shot that much easier. I reload 123gr hornady soft points, CCI #34 primers, and reloader 15 or H4198. I mostly reload with privy partisan brass, but also reload with Remington brass too on that gun. Sold a Czech mauser, that would of made a great hunter too. I just wasn't using it enough to keep it. I was gathering parts for a 458 socom AR for hunting the Adirondacks. All I have left of that project is the eotech 512 sight.

I got a few myself. A 2009 marlin 336W with a burris scope and burris rings and base. It's a little tackdriver with 150gr cor-lokts. A 1967 glenfield model 30. A 4 shot model with lyman 66 peep sight. Feels like your handling a 22 when walking in the woods all day. And there's the 6lb cannon. A browning BLR lightweight stainless in 450 marlin. I shoot 325 flex-tips through it. It has a 1.5-4.5x32 bushnell elite 3200 scope. It's a hammer, but it's perfect for small lot hunting where if the deer wander too far you can't recover them on neighbors land. My only broadside DRT shot was from this guy. It makes soda can sized exit holes. I had a bad shot go real well with this gun. I was shooting a ton of NRA shilouettes the previous summer. I got startled on a deer and reacted like I had all summer long, shoot it right in the middle. Went right in the gut. However, the shock pressure was so high, it split to lower belly crease right in half and all the internal fell right out the bottom. The deer went about 70 yards with a clear as day blood trail. I got real lucky that day.

I don't own an ATV atleast yet. But I in a hunting club that uses them. People who use them see very little deer in the Adirondack 700 acre spot we go to. The guys who go on foot see them often. About 1/3 of all deer I have seen while hunting is walking there. Good for dragging them out, not too bad for making the place you hunt better, but for getting there, won't be me. You don't know where the deer will be, so as soon as opening day starts and I got a gun in my hand, it's game on. If I oversleep, I wait a few minutes after the quad pool leaves in the morning. I have seen a few a few minutes after the wake they make.

IF you can borrow a leaf blower, it would help. Does the property have a small lawn where a house or driveway is? Seeding into the lawn there can help. You would be surprised how much 1 hour of using a rake can accomplish.

54 cal lyman GPR ready to go with roundball and 90grs FFFg. Slowly but surely, the TVM early Virginia 36" 45 cal flintlock kit is getting done. Not sure about NY muzzleloading season, but should be ready to go for PA's flintlock season. Already got the parts of an early PA Moravian styled 41" 54 cal swamped barrel with a blank for a stock. A lot of chips will fly before I can fire a round of that one. Twist has to do with it. When making your own gun, you can have options for twist rate. I could be wrong about it, but the faster twist rate (lower 1 in number) stabilizes with less velocity. My guess is you got one of those 1 in 48 T/C hawkens barrels.

I'd say anything is 4 hours minimum. Thick layer of pine needles, nothings really going to grow ontop of that. You need bare ground. Is raking against the rule? You can still do a lot, but work with-in the rules. Weedwack lime and fertilize the grassy spots if you're allowed to. That alone makes a difference. Go back there in march or febuary and spread about 2lbs of clover per acre. Mix it up with a bag or two of lime, so you can spread it out evenly. Fertilizing good browse is a good idea. Find out what the deer eat there, then looks for cover spots. Is the swamp edge real brushy? Any south hills with brush? Use dead branches to make a fence line of sorts to get a deer where you want him. Open up a spot in a stone fence, deer prefer to walk through open spots, than stumble over the rocks. Got any trees that bear fruit or nuts. About 1lb of 12-12-12 fertilizer per inch of tree diameter spread around the tree canopy edge. The trees leaves deflect water around the base of the tree, that ring where the leaves ends, put the fertilizer around that ring. A good sized oak tree might be a 60ft diameter circle around it. It's not a good acorn year by me, however, my fertilized oaks got a bit more acorns than the average oak tree. However, a good chunk of that is attributed to releasing the trees around it. Basically, cutting down the shade around the preferred tree. If there's any fruit trees from an old homestead, maybe he'll let you prune them. pH of the soil makes a difference in the taste and nutritional quality of the thing deer browse on. Finding a place where there's good brush and cover, and the cover is a better food source is not a bad place to sit. People pick spots based on how far you can shoot. However, those thick brushy spots is where deer feel comfortable and get a good chunk of their food from. Buying about a half dozen bags of lime and spreading it around a 1/4 acre spot, then adding some fertilizer will make that spot better. If allowed to weedwack, buy about 3 or 4 bags of lime for every bag of fertilizer. Spread that around first, then buy a bag of rye. Not ryegrass, but rye the annual cover crop. And some sort of clover mix would be nice too. Put that down, then weedwack so the dead grass helps keep the soil surface moist. You'll have a difference. Labor day weekend is not too late to do this. I did this to a few spots over the years, even without buying seed. Just making sure the deer have fresh tender weeds and natural grasses by taking care of the soil and especially weedwacking it around labor day. There's a good bit of grass the deer really do not eat in the woods. Just don't think green is a goldmine when hunting. A really good spot by me, the place is riddled with those red berry bushes that I have been told were poisionous, they slowly walk through those nibbling along the way, until the right one gets in my shooting lane.

Even dragging a log behind a tractor has worked. Great for leveling out disced out spot, then put the seed down, then do another pass to cover the seed up a bit.

Disc harrows are considered the best implement to use, if you only can buy one. However, I have seen less than ideal stuff still produce good results, even if it's just for the 1st year. Scratching the soil with York rake or a box blade will make an ok seed bed to plant seed. One guy I know drags his front bucket backwards and still makes a workable seedbed. When buying traditional plows, the general rule of thumb is 1hp per inch of plow, a 2 bottom 16" plow needs 32hp or propulsion. I got a 32hp Kubota and have a 2x16 plow for it. I plow a little shallow and it works fine. How much rocks are in the soil? I have a small tow behind disc that works fine with an ATV or lawn tractor. However, in the catskill mountains, there is a ton of rock. I am going to pick up a spring harrows instead of discs, or maybe just a set of spring cultivators. Personally, I am going to only grow grass like plants, like wheat, rye, and clovers. No deep rooted stuff like turnips or corn. Just too many rocks to pick out here, and I live on a hillside. If I plow at the wrong time, I could wash half of it down to the neighbors property. One thing I wish I did, is to make several small plots. Make a 10 yard or so wide brushy spot between 1/2 acre or so spots. Small lots are more likely to be visited during daylight hours. I am new to this, however, I do know someone who does ski resort maintenance. Rye is affordable and easy to get growing. If you can time it right, scratch up the surface with what you got now and put the rye in right before a good few days of rain either side of labor day. Even just getting a 1/4 acre going will be good. I had good results with just keep a fallow spot mowed and putting a little lime and fertilizer on it. Maybe 3 or 4 times as many trail camera hits as not doing anything. I did this for 2 years before I got ahead of my firewood, so I had enough free time to pick the rocks out, a good shot of lime, lightly disced with my small discs, and get some cereal grain and clover mix going. I like the plotspike forage feast from tractor supply. It has a bit of everything. Wheat, oats, rye, Austrian peas, brassica (rape seed), and annual clover. I mixed in some imperial whitetail clover in with it. Maybe about 6 or 7 bags of 12-12-12 fertilizer from home depot per acre, and it worked great. IT actually did better where the discs tilled in lighter. I made a post of it on the seed review. I wanted something out of it to grow, all of it did. Thinking I should of used durana clover instead, but the deer don't mind it at all.

From what little I do know about food plots, I do know it's generally better to do your research and make your own mix. Plotspike forage feast from tractor supply has been one mix I have had good success with, and will continue to use. I still mix it up with clover though. What I did read and will try next week is aslike clover in a really wet spot. IF your real late in the season, I think annual clover like crimson will do better, because the annual grows faster. I'm going to try landino clover as per a recommendation on here up in the Adirondacks because the pH is lower there. I am fertilizing and liming, but since I can't get a good till up there, the lower portions of the soil bed will not get the pH raised. Lime doesn't travel into the soil much, you need to spread it and then till it down there.

I read wildlife and woodlot management by monte burch. It's from the late 90's, but has great info. Just would like some specifc northeast info. Especially particular species of bushes, there's a huge variety and you don't always see them when their in bloom either.

Usually, it's related to the loading ramp. The orange plastic magazine follower could be to blame. It gets worn and sticks out a hair too much, causing it to interfere with the ramp moving upward. Sometimes the little latch claw on the ramp is the problem. Usually has something directly related to that ramp that pushed the shell from the lower magazine tube section and up to the bolt chamber. Try pushing the magazine tube follower back, then cycling it. Does the first shell go in hard sometimes when loading the tube?