reeltime

It's so dry and loud I swear I just heard a tick crawl past me and I'm 32 feet up a beech tree. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

I had 1 full sneak done as that's how he was when I shot him.. it's ok... I will warn ya they stick off the wall a long ways. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Hope for a speedy recovery for ya. Heck if ya can't pull the trigger just club one when they walk past your blind. Lol. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

punched my pa archery buck tag yesterday afternoon with an 8pt. now to get farm work done, mowing, working on tractors and trying to get dad who is 83 a buck with his bow, congrats to all that have scored so far. bionic an extra special congrats to you sir! good luck to you the rest of the season.

Pa. went full inclusion in 2009, I see quite a few xbow hunters but I still see alot of vert. bow hunters as well. the numbers don't lie there was a marked increase in archery tag sales and has been going up since 2009. License Type 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 R Archery 257,159 256,662 255,188 260,001 274,583 277,602 285,549 297,031 312,045 319,850 326,870 nr " 12,593 12,089 11,653 11,022 11,814 11,812 12,243 12,283 12,996 13,151 13,604

yes you can use a bow, yes you need a hip # and a duck stamp first

, you are trying to recover a deer YOU shot its hardly wasting their time. if the arrow smelled foul it likely hit something in the guts and even a slight nick in the intestines or the stomach it is 100% fatal. anyone can be an armchair quarterback but only you know what the deer's reaction was, what the arrow smelled like and what the blood looked like. how far the deer ran before stopping for 10 minutes. you stated you walked to that spot, likely the deer saw you at that time and now was aware of your presence. Theory is that the deer doesn't know what bit them just that they are injured, especially if they have no idea you are there. I have had a good number of deer just walk away or even go back to eating after sending an arrow through them without hitting anything solid, especially true with non mechanical heads as the mechanical's often times make noise upon opening. not belittling you but your biggest asset to recovering a deer is confidence that you will find it. I would take tracking through a goldenrod field over open woods 100% of the time, often times you can find blood on the stems where it brushed against the deer. if in fact there was stomach/intestine matter on the arrow that buck is dead somewhere.

maine

Mounts at camp, the triple bearded gobbler and ring neck are drying at the taximans. Have 2 more deer heads to pick up , a beaver and mink combo mount and a banded drake black duck all still at the taxi shop....... I am gonna need to build an addition I think. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Ok. Here you go. http://www.heartlandoutdoors.com/tims/story/a_few_big_bucks_from_iowa/ Supposedly shot in Iowa in 2012.

Not ny. 2014 Iowa I believe? ??? Same pic was on huntingpa in the last week. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

thanks all, and again a special thanks to Paul (maytom) for the gift. its already gotten compliments from visitors at camp this weekend. unfortunately those are some of my better beards since 2000, my entire beard and spur collection from seasons 1979 to 2000 were lost in a fire.

I gotta give a shout out and huge thank you to a fellow hunting ny member, maytom Paul sent me a gift for our camp in pa. Paul your craftsmanship is superb on all your products, I love the beard display and have attached a few of my better beards. It will have its place on the turkey wall along with the spur display from you back in the day. If anyone's interest is peaked by either the spur display or beard display I would highly recommend maytom, his work is top notch. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

first thing on the list needs to be your safety harness.

i would say stick with an outboard until you get over 19 foot. with an IO you will be limited to warm temp usage, where with an outboard you can use them all year long. the IO will need to be winterized every fall while you can learn how to do it yourself its generally around 120-150.00 to have a marina do it and in my opinion its cheap insurance having them do it so if in the spring you start up the boat and find a broken heat exchanger or cracked block because something was missed it falls back on the marina. with an IO a few things to look at and remember for future maintenance is the transom boot and shift boot, they can, do and will dry rot and leak, if you keep the boat on a dock muskrats love transom boots for some reason. IO motors are sometimes easier for mechanically inclined folks to work on since they are basically a car motor with open water ports, most though are crammed into small areas and can be a a real pain to work on. you will also need a oil change pump to change the oil or again have the marina do it. pontoon boats generally have lots of room to fish off of but they are NOT a boat for large water, they will roll over in rough water and as law said they can be a real pita in windy conditions. a 35 hp on a pontoon boat unless its a real small boat will likely be under powered. as far as conventional runabout boats go some of the things to look for are; - transom, check for water logged wood or signs of dry rot and weak wood -floors, again check for weak spots, soft spots, spongy spots. generally in the forward bow, around the seats and just in front of the splashwell. -wiring, if it looks like a spaghetti mess and shows a lot of corrosion you will be fixing it at some point. -steering cables or hydrolic lines should be in good condition and operate smoothly. - flotation foam, make sure its present and not water logged. if its not present either have it done or find a different boat. -check bilge pumps for proper operations, also check the bilge pump hoses for blockage. - outboards, general appearance of little or no residual oil all over it, pull the engine cover check for cleanliness -spark plug/ coil wires flexible and not cracked. -carbs clean? -general appearance neat, clean, no appearance of shady repairs ( parts tie wrapped or wired together where there should obviously be something else securing the part) -- lower unit, -check for oil leaks -check for smooth shifting forward and reverse -check the lower unit oil it should be clear and heavy, if its a milky color it has or has had water in it and is a clear indication of a serious problem. -check the oil prior to and after a trial run. - check the skeg and prop for damage, if it has a brand new prop on it REALLY check the lower unit over good, even better is have a mechanic check it over. - always carry a spare prop in the boat and a prop wrench. make sure the prop is the proper pitch and diameter for that motor. - if its oil injected check the injector tank for general appearance. do not go cheap on the 2 cycle oil and ensure its the proper oil for the motor ( most are tc3 type oils) always carry spare oil and recommend not mixing brands. - check the cam rollers on the throttle linkage on the motor, probably be 2 little roller assemblies that move in a slotted mounting bracket. check for excessive wear, easily replaceable but something to check. -- Hull, -if aluminum hull check for loose rivets -check the transom for oxidation around the motor mounts. - check any add on parts, transducers, exterior livewell pumps. -check any dents, or gouges in the bottom. -check contact points on the trailer, whether its a bunk type trailer or roller type. fiberglass hulls- check for spider web cracking/checking check for blistering ( common problem with glass boats that set on a dock without bottom paint) push on the sides of the boat to check for weak spots. check for soft spots on the transom especially where any aftermarket things were installed. where are you located and what price range are you looking at? I know of a possible boat going up for sale, 19 foot center console glass boat, 90hp honda motor always stored inside, nice trailer, dual planer mast, 2 downriggers, fish finder, radio, gear, all in pretty nice shape and can probably be bought right.

i would agree with culvert, take up what you need to level it by sistering 2x's to make it level and then put down new subfloor. if the base is not level it will require shimming the wall units which will make the whole installation process harder and potentially weaker. the base unit needs to set on a flat hard level surface, the formed in stantions all need to contact the floor so the base does not flex more than its built for. have seen poor installations cause leaks and or cracks a number of times.

use pex as long as it falls within the temps and pressures that it will carry. get the sharkbite release tool with out it they are a pita to get released. as has been stated make sure it goes on straight and is fully seated. also make sure the pipe is clean, ie not gobbed up with solder/flux. do not buy the rolls of pex, yes its cheaper but for short runs it has a memory and can put enough stress on a fitting for it to leak. just get the 20 foot straight sticks if you have to lay it out on the driveway with bricks on it and allow the sun to take some of the memory out of it from rolling it to get it home. if you buy the crimp tool make sure its for the crimps that are most readily available, don't be sticker shocked at the price of the crimps as they are not cheap. btw they can be a real pain to cut off if they don't crimp down right.

a helpful link for nys requirements http://nyshbca.org/safety_equipment.html uscg pamphlet for safety gear http://www.uscgboating.org/images/420.PDF

29 foot penn yan with 2 350 chevys 18 foot blue fin with a 90hp evinrude 16 foot starcraft with either a 15 hp evinrude pr 9.5 hp evinride depending on where I am duck hunting 12 foot starcraft that is only used when flat calm for late season duck hunting. depending on what lakes you fish I would go with an absolute minimum 14 foot but it would have to be deep and wide. would lean more towards a 16 or 18 footer also deep and wide with at or close to max hp rating just be conscience of the engine weight, generally 4 strokes are heavier than 2 strokes, just something to consider if you have an open traditional transom as you don't want to be too stern heavy. safety first, deep and wide generally equals stability and ability to take a heavier sea but just because its bigger doesn't mean take more chances. being at or near max hp will help with more passengers and will certainly be of a benefit to get to safety in a hurry if weather changes quickly. if you do upgrade in size make sure to double check your safety gear for compliance with uscg requirements for the size of the boat, it changes depending on the size of the boat, flares, signal flag, throwable flotation device etc. make sure your anchor is of suitable size and with ample chain and rope, even better is 2 anchors. another thing to look at and make it a serious consideration on purchase is flotation foam in the boat make sure it has it or make sure if it doesn't and you buy it have it done. you don't want the boat sinking out from under you if it gets loaded with water.

merlots wife's cats or the vultures?

I will just say that they do not take kindly to getting too close to their "nest" which just happens to be on the first floor of our barn. I WAS gonna work on bracing the second floor platform but momma was pretty insistent that I vacate her territory. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Finally trees in numbers and somerhing other than pines. Got some great info in south dakota and again met some really nice folks. Saw piles of ring necks and even had to stop on i90 to allow a hen to cross with her 10 little puff ball chicks. Time to start making tracks east.... Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk