Any Mechanics out there?

[Five Seasons]

6 hours ago, stubby68 said:

Have been working on vehicle my whole life. Never once have I had a problem bleeding brakes. Never needed a computer or special tool. Leave breeders open until fluid runs out. Tighten bleeders ,have someone pumps brakes 3 or 4 times then hold peddle down Crack bleeder on right rear to let air out. Repeat this till you are not getting air from line. Repeat the same on left rear then do the front. Takes maybe 10 minutes total time.  Garages will tell you anything to get your money.

same here. there are some manuals out there that tell you to bleed the abs on the Silverado. I can't remember the specifics but it was really rare and if I do remember right was mostly only important if you ran the master cylinder dry (obvious rookie mistake, but it happens) or if you replaced the abs itself. otherwise, yes a special tool or purpose engagement was the only way to get the air out.

there's a reason gearheads like working on old cars. the electronics in the new cars make things pretty complicated.

 

edit, it might be for general fluid replacement too because all your lines do feed off the abs. if it's designed in a way that there's a valve in there I could see air getting trapped during bleeding. why Chevy put that freaking thing where they did... it was a nightmare doing my rear line. on my Pontiac the abs is in the engine bay. lol

Edited January 24, 2017 by Belo

[Jeremy K]

7 hours ago, stubby68 said:

Have been working on vehicle my whole life. Never once have I had a problem bleeding brakes. Never needed a computer or special tool. Leave breeders open until fluid runs out. Tighten bleeders ,have someone pumps brakes 3 or 4 times then hold peddle down Crack bleeder on right rear to let air out. Repeat this till you are not getting air from line. Repeat the same on left rear then do the front. Takes maybe 10 minutes total time.  Garages will tell you anything to get your money.

The system on the 99 chevy was used from 95 -00 . If the line is replaced from the master cylinder to the abs block it is very easy to get air in the system. It's a horrible design ,it mounts underneath the drivers seat on top of the cross memeber ,all the fittings were rusted to the lines and you can't get wrench on the fittings . It was a cut and socket job for all of them

Edited January 24, 2017 by Jeremy K

[chas0218]

22 hours ago, Jeremy K said:

Same here ,I left those in so that the abs would go off and get the air out of the abs block after doing the brake lines . Afterwards I cleaned the mounting area and put new sensors in. 

If you jack up all 4 corners of the truck and put her in gear let the tires start to roll then hit the brakes the ABS will cycle because those front tires aren't moving. I also had the 4wd in when I did this not sure if I needed it or not but it worked either way.

[chas0218]

22 hours ago, stubby68 said:

Have been working on vehicle my whole life. Never once have I had a problem bleeding brakes. Never needed a computer or special tool. Leave breeders open until fluid runs out. Tighten bleeders ,have someone pumps brakes 3 or 4 times then hold peddle down Crack bleeder on right rear to let air out. Repeat this till you are not getting air from line. Repeat the same on left rear then do the front. Takes maybe 10 minutes total time.  Garages will tell you anything to get your money.

Only need to cycle the ABS motor if you replace the ABS motor or lines/master cylinder before the ABS motor. 

The system on the 99 chevy was used from 95 -00 . If the line is replaced from the master cylinder to the abs block it is very easy to get air in the system. It's a horrible design ,it mounts underneath the drivers seat on top of the cross memeber ,all the fittings were rusted to the lines and you can't get wrench on the fittings . It was a cut and socket job for all of them

My 03 is the same way I think they used it up until the late model 07's.

Edited January 25, 2017 by chas0218

[Five Seasons]

16 hours ago, Jeremy K said:

The system on the 99 chevy was used from 95 -00 . If the line is replaced from the master cylinder to the abs block it is very easy to get air in the system. It's a horrible design ,it mounts underneath the drivers seat on top of the cross memeber ,all the fittings were rusted to the lines and you can't get wrench on the fittings . It was a cut and socket job for all of them

yep I had to buy a thin handled metal saw to get in there and cut, then the only way to loosen the nut was a flare wrench. couldn't get any left to right with a socket. Man just thinking about that job pisses me off all over again. The best part was it was the second weekend of bow season and I basically lost a weekend of hunting!

[Jeremy K]

2 hours ago, Belo said:

yep I had to buy a thin handled metal saw to get in there and cut, then the only way to loosen the nut was a flare wrench. couldn't get any left to right with a socket. Man just thinking about that job pisses me off all over again. The best part was it was the second weekend of bow season and I basically lost a weekend of hunting!

I hear ya , had to be one of the worst repairs I've done . We just bought a house and I did it in the garage with no heat . 

[NFA-ADK]

On ‎1‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 8:06 AM, chas0218 said:

If you jack up all 4 corners of the truck and put her in gear let the tires start to roll then hit the brakes the ABS will cycle because those front tires aren't moving. I also had the 4wd in when I did this not sure if I needed it or not but it worked either way.

Not trying to bust chops but no need to jack all 4 if the front do not move, just get the back off the ground.  Much safer than trying to get the entire truck up on jacks.

[First-light]

Well the problem was the cam shaft. We decided to do lifters on one side but when they took the covers off they noticed the cam problem. My truck is in real good shape. I hate to part with it. My buddy at the dealership said he would give me $1,000 for it. I said "Hell no"….So my mechanic ordered a new motor and will finish it up today. 100,000/3yr warrantee. I hope to get at least 3 more years if not more with the truck. I was worried about the transmission and got a quote of $2,000 if that goes. No looking back now……….

[chas0218]

On 1/28/2017 at 8:55 AM, NFA-ADK said:

Not trying to bust chops but no need to jack all 4 if the front do not move, just get the back off the ground.  Much safer than trying to get the entire truck up on jacks.

Did mine with 4wd engaged. You need to bleed/actuate the front too.

Edited February 3, 2017 by chas0218

[chas0218]

4 hours ago, First-light said:

Well the problem was the cam shaft. We decided to do lifters on one side but when they took the covers off they noticed the cam problem. My truck is in real good shape. I hate to part with it. My buddy at the dealership said he would give me $1,000 for it. I said "Hell no"….So my mechanic ordered a new motor and will finish it up today. 100,000/3yr warrantee. I hope to get at least 3 more years if not more with the truck. I was worried about the transmission and got a quote of $2,000 if that goes. No looking back now……….

New motor or used motor guessing new/rebuilt for that warranty? I know when I replaced my motor I paid $500 from intake to pan the motor had 112k. Transmissions were $400 used I'm pretty sure and they ranged in mileage. I opted for the used motor because I don't drive the truck much and would sell it before I got my money out of a rebuilt/new motor. 3 years later and 10k miles I still have it, go figure.

Edited February 3, 2017 by chas0218

[Arcade Hunter]

4 hours ago, First-light said:

Well the problem was the cam shaft. We decided to do lifters on one side but when they took the covers off they noticed the cam problem. My truck is in real good shape. I hate to part with it. My buddy at the dealership said he would give me $1,000 for it. I said "Hell no"….So my mechanic ordered a new motor and will finish it up today. 100,000/3yr warrantee. I hope to get at least 3 more years if not more with the truck. I was worried about the transmission and got a quote of $2,000 if that goes. No looking back now……….

If you dont mind me asking.... How much was the new engine?  Any details would be great

[NFA-ADK]

Well that sucks, was hoping the wires would fix it or some other minor issue was the problem but no such luck.  One thing I do use to preserve the engine is synthetic oil.  That is one of the best improvements to lubrication that I have seen. 

Full synthetic is expensive but you can extend the oil change life with it and it does lub much better. 

Good luck with your new engine, hope the truck lasts you another 10 years!!!

[Jeremy K]

4 hours ago, First-light said:

Well the problem was the cam shaft. We decided to do lifters on one side but when they took the covers off they noticed the cam problem. My truck is in real good shape. I hate to part with it. My buddy at the dealership said he would give me $1,000 for it. I said "Hell no"….So my mechanic ordered a new motor and will finish it up today. 100,000/3yr warrantee. I hope to get at least 3 more years if not more with the truck. I was worried about the transmission and got a quote of $2,000 if that goes. No looking back now……….

I had a 4l60e rebuilt by a guy in arcade , I think it was 1200 for the whole job. I wasn't sure where you were located ,obviously if it's a ways from arcade it wouldn't be ideal. 

[chas0218]

17 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

I had a 4l60e rebuilt by a guy in arcade , I think it was 1200 for the whole job. I wasn't sure where you were located ,obviously if it's a ways from arcade it wouldn't be ideal. 

There are reputable shops all over that will rebuild the transmission. I wouldn't take it to a regular mechanic or a dealership a shop that specializes in transmissions is ideal and usually cheaper than a new bought one. I would opt for a rebuilt transmission with a few upgrades. This is where I have ordered the majority of parts for my built 700r4 in my camaro(same as the 4l60e just no electronics). https://www.700r4l60e.com/

If the tranny ever goes in the truck I will be getting my parts/fixing it from the above mentioned site and using a lot of the heavy parts. My truck is my hauling and towing vehicle usually not the nicest to the old girl.

Edited February 3, 2017 by chas0218

[First-light]

5 hours ago, Arcade Hunter said:

If you dont mind me asking.... How much was the new engine?  Any details would be great

Going to cost $5,500

[Jeremy K]

4 hours ago, chas0218 said:

There are reputable shops all over that will rebuild the transmission. I wouldn't take it to a regular mechanic or a dealership a shop that specializes in transmissions is ideal and usually cheaper than a new bought one. I would opt for a rebuilt transmission with a few upgrades. This is where I have ordered the majority of parts for my built 700r4 in my camaro(same as the 4l60e just no electronics). https://www.700r4l60e.com/

If the tranny ever goes in the truck I will be getting my parts/fixing it from the above mentioned site and using a lot of the heavy parts. My truck is my hauling and towing vehicle usually not the nicest to the old girl.

That's the reason I went with the guy I dealt with ,I've seen some of the cars run at the track that he's worked on. I know exactly what you mean about doing upgrades ,he took a bunch of slip out of it to increase the life of the transmission.  Like you said ,an actual transmission guy instead of just a stock parts replacement guy.

[First-light]

3 hours ago, First-light said:

Going to cost $5,500

Actual cost of the engine $3720 Jasper remanufactured 5.3.