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Westchester/Putnam Bow Shop?


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13 hours ago, Hookhunter20 said:

I've bought a few bows from flying arrow over the years and one from extreme archery, I prefer flying arrow. I've know Mike since I was a kid and his son Nick and their employee Dave really know their stuff. As far as pricing goes they are comparable to any other shops in the area, best way to do it if you want to save some money is to pick the accessories you want and buy them online and bring them with you when you purchase the bow. They up charge the hell out of accessories but it's how small shops make their money. As for your question on the Halon 32, I have the 30 and love it, for ground blind hunting I shoot a bowtech Prodigy which is a 32 inch bow, I would not hesitate to use a Halon 32 in the tree or out of a blind.

Thanks for the tips!

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so what are the must-have accessories?

  1. Compound Bow
  2. Arrow rest
  3. Bow release
  4. Arrows
  5. Field points/broad heads
  6. Lumenoks (I like this with xbow, especially since I hunt from the ground makes finding the arrow easier)

 

WHAT ELSE?

 

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Sight

Wrist sling

Target block, if you can shoot in your backyard, awesome. Even if you can't I'd get something to shoot at even from 10ft away in the basement or whatever, just to get your body accustomed to drawing back and shooting.

Quiver

broadhead wrench

optional:

stabilizer

allen wrench set

sharpeners

list goes on and on

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18 minutes ago, uberyan said:

Sight

Wrist sling

Target block, if you can shoot in your backyard, awesome. Even if you can't I'd get something to shoot at even from 10ft away in the basement or whatever, just to get your body accustomed to drawing back and shooting.

Quiver

broadhead wrench

optional:

stabilizer

allen wrench set

sharpeners

list goes on and on

Thanks. forgot about sight lol. I don't need targets since I have them for xbow (both FP and BH). I've never sharpened BH's, I don't use them more than once. What is a BH wrench? they don't screw in by hand? with my xbow bolts, I screw/unscrew FP's and switch out with BH's for hunting.

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Haha, broadhead wrench is just a piece of plastic that holds the blades while you're screwing them on.

I guess you could do it carefully barehanded but I'd rather spend $4 to make sure I don't cut myself.

I went with replaceable blade bh's as well but just threw sharpener in there because I know some reuse. Then again I heard it's nice to run even new blades across the sharpener a few times.

I have the best of both worlds, it's a bh wrench with a built in sharpener. Whopping $8 buy.

For the release I'd see if the shop will let you try different kinds before you buy. I started with the typical wrist strap trigger release, then I tried out a thumb release and it felt way better for me.

Arrows I recommend South Shore archery out of Florida. He does awesome work and you can order singles to try out different kinds to see what you like best.

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I don't know how extravagant you want to go biz but I try to keep my bow as simple as possible because I don't want stuff breaking or being broke when I want to be hunting. In my 20+ years of shooting compounds this is the setup I have found to be the best.

Sight- I shoot an HHA optimizer

It's a single pin that slides for different ranges I love the simplicity of a single pin I set it and have it locked down for 0-30yd shots "I won't shoot a critter farther than that" but it's awesome to be able to shoot 100yds for fun if I want.

Rest- whisker biscuit

Simple, bullet proof and easy to tune. Many will try to talk you into a drop away and many like them, I find them to be a solution to a problem that never existed.

Wrist strap- not a necessity but I have one and like having it on there, mine is just a simple strap just remember to leave it very loose for hunting.

Stabilizer- I shoot with one that's relatively heavy and has some sound dampening to it. Brands not really important just try a few and see what feels best.

Peep sight- I shoot a huge peep that I have drilled out to make even bigger allows more light in during low light conditions, for you starting out I would suggest staying with a normal sized peep because it makes it easier to align your sights.

Release- I shoot a true ball leather strap hook release with a finger trigger. I have shot every kind of release there is and prefer a thumb release for shooting but a thumb release in cold weather is a pain in the ass so a wrist strap with finger trigger is a good compromise.

Arrows- I hunt with gold tip pro hunters and have about 15 years. I shoot all year with the cheapest Beamans dicks sells I think 35$ for 6. I shoot year round and go through a few dozen arrows a year and see no reason to shoot a 10$ arrow when I'm just drinking around.

Broad heads- everyone has their favorite I shoot sliktricks because they hold up well and easy to change blades. Hard to get a bad broadhead these days.


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I don't know how extravagant you want to go biz but I try to keep my bow as simple as possible because I don't want stuff breaking or being broke when I want to be hunting. In my 20+ years of shooting compounds this is the setup I have found to be the best.

Sight- I shoot an HHA optimizer

It's a single pin that slides for different ranges I love the simplicity of a single pin I set it and have it locked down for 0-30yd shots "I won't shoot a critter farther than that" but it's awesome to be able to shoot 100yds for fun if I want.

Rest- whisker biscuit

Simple, bullet proof and easy to tune. Many will try to talk you into a drop away and many like them, I find them to be a solution to a problem that never existed.

Wrist strap- not a necessity but I have one and like having it on there, mine is just a simple strap just remember to leave it very loose for hunting.

Stabilizer- I shoot with one that's relatively heavy and has some sound dampening to it. Brands not really important just try a few and see what feels best.

Peep sight- I shoot a huge peep that I have drilled out to make even bigger allows more light in during low light conditions, for you starting out I would suggest staying with a normal sized peep because it makes it easier to align your sights.

Release- I shoot a true ball leather strap hook release with a finger trigger. I have shot every kind of release there is and prefer a thumb release for shooting but a thumb release in cold weather is a pain in the ass so a wrist strap with finger trigger is a good compromise.

Arrows- I hunt with gold tip pro hunters and have about 15 years. I shoot all year with the cheapest Beamans dicks sells I think 35$ for 6. I shoot year round and go through a few dozen arrows a year and see no reason to shoot a 10$ arrow when I'm just drinking around.

Broad heads- everyone has their favorite I shoot sliktricks because they hold up well and easy to change blades. Hard to get a bad broadhead these days.


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Good stuff, thanks! Appreciate this.


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I would get a case for it as well. I have an expensive one that I use all the time and a cheap plastic one for when I bring a second bow ,they protect equally the same for just transporting via the car or truck.


My xbow case was the worst purchase I made since I never use it. I hunt under 10 miles away. Of course if I fly somewhere I would Need a hard case.


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Right now this time of year I would go to flying arrow. They know there shit and as far as getting ripped off all the bow shops prices are high. After labor day I would stay clear of the carmel store ( way to busy) .  There is also a flying arrow in wappingers That is alot less hectic and the guy in there is great also..........  

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Okiv never dealt with flying arrow, been in there once and they seemed nice, I really like the guys in mamaroneck. That being said they do not carry Mathews bows... if you are going to spend the money get a Matthews they are the best bows on the market, I have a halon and love it. 100x better then anything I have ever shot!!!


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Right now this time of year I would go to flying arrow. They know there shit and as far as getting ripped off all the bow shops prices are high. After labor day I would stay clear of the carmel store ( way to busy) .  There is also a flying arrow in wappingers That is alot less hectic and the guy in there is great also..........  

Okiv never dealt with flying arrow, been in there once and they seemed nice, I really like the guys in mamaroneck. That being said they do not carry Mathews bows... if you are going to spend the money get a Matthews they are the best bows on the market, I have a halon and love it. 100x better then anything I have ever shot!!!


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Thx guys. I'll probably take a day off and go during a weekday.


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Thx guys. I'll probably take a day off and go during a weekday.


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Nice!!! let me know when your going sometimes my work travels put me in the neighborhood, if you want and I'm in the area I'll stop in.


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Nice!!! let me know when your going sometimes my work travels put me in the neighborhood, if you want and I'm in the area I'll stop in.


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Cool thx


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Can someone steer me in the right direction regarding ballistics/arrow drop?

For example, with the Mathews Halon at 45lbs, using [ ] arrows and broadheads what is the drop at 30yds if I'm dead on at 25yds? And how high would be at like 15yds? I'd be shooting from ground and I'm thinking only 1 pin and hold high or low as accordingly. That's how I like my rifle, shotgun, and xbow scopes. I'm not a fan of the scopes with different yardage markers, much rather prefer to hold high or low.


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10 minutes ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

I would go dead on at 20, and be close to top of the back at 30. That way 0-25 you could hold dead on


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Thanks, but I'm curious at say 45lb. draw what is the drop between 25 and 30? Like with my xbow, I'm dead on at 25 so I know I'm 2-3" low at 30yds. and around 8" low at 35yds. I guess I'm wondering if 45lbs draw is enough to keep 20-30yd shots close or if the difference between 20yd and 30yd will be something crazy like 15"

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4 minutes ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

Thanks, but I'm curious at say 45lb. draw what is the drop between 25 and 30? Like with my xbow, I'm dead on at 25 so I know I'm 2-3" low at 30yds. and around 8" low at 35yds. I guess I'm wondering if 45lbs draw is enough to keep 20-30yd shots close or if the difference between 20yd and 30yd will be something crazy like 15"

Is there a reason to be at 45lbs, bad shoulder?

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Thanks, but I'm curious at say 45lb. draw what is the drop between 25 and 30? Like with my xbow, I'm dead on at 25 so I know I'm 2-3" low at 30yds. and around 8" low at 35yds. I guess I'm wondering if 45lbs draw is enough to keep 20-30yd shots close or if the difference between 20yd and 30yd will be something crazy like 15"

There won't be much more than a couple inches, my wife shoots 45lbs and I have her bow set up dead on at 20 and top of back at 30. 0-25 there is at most 2-3" difference and about 6" low at 30.


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15 minutes ago, NYBowhunter said:

Is there a reason to be at 45lbs, bad shoulder?

Yea. It's been full separated since '09. Based on the accubow which I started using in February a few days a week, I can draw 45 and hold it steady easily long enough for a shot. That's holding all 45lbs though since there's no let-off. so with 85% let-off I would think a 40-50lb. bow would be good for me. I would only practice shoot maybe once a week just to stay in form for hunting season.

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3 minutes ago, Biz-R-OWorld said:

Yea. It's been full separated since '09. Based on the accubow which I started using in February a few days a week, I can draw 45 and hold it steady easily long enough for a shot. That's holding all 45lbs though since there's no let-off. so with 85% let-off I would think a 40-50lb. bow would be good for me. I would only practice shoot maybe once a week just to stay in form for hunting season.

If your able to pull 45 pounds and hold it there or at least 10 seconds, i would think you could do 50 pounds at least with 85 percent let off. Mathews bows are very smooth so I wouldn't be surprised if you could do more. 

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If your able to pull 45 pounds and hold it there or at least 10 seconds, i would think you could do 50 pounds at least with 85 percent let off. Mathews bows are very smooth so I wouldn't be surprised if you could do more. 

Yea I just don't know. Will find out when I go. Do certain releases make drawing easier?

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