Looking to get this Recurve going

[mlammerhirt]

My farther-in-law gave me this a few years ago.....instead of leaving it lay around and collect dust I am looking to get it ready for next bow season....would like to carry it a few days at least.

 

My first question..... is this to heavy of a bow for a new recurve shooter?

 

Where is the the best place to get a string?

 

Quiver?

 

Thanks to all in advance for the suggestions and help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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[Culvercreek hunt club]

There are some great knowledgeable guys on here. They will help. 

 

What is your draw length?

[mlammerhirt]

28" for a compound bow.

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[The_Real_TCIII]

In for the info. I also have a recurve that was my Dad's that Id like to hunt with someday. I found a string maker on Archery Talk but it was a few years ago

[wildcat junkie]

17 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

 

My farther-in-law gave me this a few years ago.....instead of leaving it lay around and collect dust I am looking to get it ready for next bow season....would like to carry it a few days at least.

 

My first question..... is this to heavy of a bow for a new recurve shooter?

 

Where is the the best place to get a string?

 

Quiver?

 

Thanks to all in advance for the suggestions and help.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

 

 

54# might be a bit much to start, but I shot a 55# recurve when I was 14 YO. It might be good to borrow something in the 45# range for the 1st few weeks until you get your form developed..

 

54# is a great "hunting weight" bow. It will send a fixed blade cut on contact broadhead clean through a deer.

 

You can get a string HERE.  Go for a "Flemish" string as they have full strands in the nock while an "endless string ony has 1/2 the strands in the nock. Generally speaking, the string should be 4" shorter than the AMO length marked on the bow. (measure on the belly of the bow nock to nock) It should be about the same as the end to end length measured on the back (facing towards the target as held in the hand) of the bow between nocks in a straight line. 

 

FYI, the "back" is the front and the "belly" is the back as held in the hand while shooting.

Edited October 31, 2017 by wildcat junkie

[moog5050]

That's a pretty heavy bow to start learning.  You should be somewhere in the 28-29" DL with a recurve based on your compound DL - meaning the bow will weigh between 54-57lbs at full draw.  Nothing like the 10-15lbs you are holding now and even many long time trad guys don't shoot that weight hunting (that's why bows 55lbs plus aren't sold quickly used).  Not that you won't be able to draw it, but to get to truly full draw (proper alignment), it will likely be a struggle and you really want a bow you can dominate to learn good form - not one you are fighting to hold.  Not saying it can't be done, but if someone was asking whether its the best option, my response would be definitely not.  Plus, you may learn a form that works with this heavier weight (likely short drawing), but is not the best form for long term accuracy.  And trying to undo bad habits aint easy.  Looks like a pretty short bow too, compounding the difficulty due to finger pinch and short bows are twitchy.  Do you know its AMO length?

As for a string, Steve B on this site makes the absolute best in my opinion.  Look up mountain muffler strings.

Just my suggestion, but I think you would be better served to buy a nice starter bow in the 62-64" length and around 35lbs at 28" and work up from there.  There are a few on the market that can be had for under $200 and you can buy heavier limbs as needed.

[GreeneHunter]

Nice looking Bow !

[moog5050]

By the way, it looks like that bow was made on October 9, 1960 from the serial number.  Very nice condition for sure!

[mlammerhirt]

Moog that's some great advice and I may throw that idea towards the wife for an Xmas present.....Right now with two young boys my time is spread pretty thin.....I kinda want to just get this bow going cause I hate to see it sitting in the corner.

That being said looks like I will look into a string.....how about arrows...where is a good place to start?
I assemble my own target and hunting arrows, so wouldn't mind some suggestions on traditional carbon arrows that I have to assemble.

Also whats a good weight for a traditional arrow?


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[wildcat junkie]

32 minutes ago, moog5050 said:

 

Just my suggestion, but I think you would be better served to buy a nice starter bow in the 62-64" length and around 35lbs at 28" and work up from there.  There are a few on the market that can be had for under $200 and you can buy heavier limbs as needed.

In the late 1960s and early '70s speed was selling and bows became shorter and shorter in the quest for fps. In a given draw weight, the shorter bow will generally be faster. But there's a price. The shorter the bow, the more string pinch and the less forgiving the bow will be . In other words, the shorter the bow, the harder it will be to shoot consistently. If you are over 5'9" a 62" bow will be about right. Under 5'9" and a 60" bow will be better a compromise for speed and smoothness. I would not recommend a bow under 58" for anyone.

 

As far as quivers? A "limb attach" quiver might affect the cast of a one piece recurve bow. I ended up using a "Catquiver" II.

 

Arrows are removed by reaching back, grasping the shaft while lifting up, pulling the point end out and down. Once you get used to it, it becomes second nature. I strapped the Catquiver to the right side of my climbing stand (strapped to my back) for access while walking and around the trunk of the tree once I was up in the stand.

 

HERE is another source for traditional archery gear. They stock the varous versions of the CATQUIVER.

Edited October 31, 2017 by wildcat junkie

[wildcat junkie]

13 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

That being said looks like I will look into a string.....how about arrows...where is a good place to start?
I assemble my own target and hunting arrows, so wouldn't mind some suggestions on traditional carbon arrows that I have to assemble.

Also whats a good weight for a traditional arrow?


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If you go with aluminum arrows, throw away the "spine charts" as they will have you about 15-20 pounds over spined.

 

For a 55# recurve @ 28" draw, a 2114/217 Easton XX75 will be about right with a 125gr point. Use 5" feather fletch in a helical twist.

 

Start with your arrows a bit long and cut them back 1/2" at a time to tune.

 

For 28" draw with "broahead clearance" you will end up with a shaft about 29 1/2" long.

Edited October 31, 2017 by wildcat junkie

[Culvercreek hunt club]

11 minutes ago, wildcat junkie said:

In the late 1960s and early '70s speed was selling and bows became shorter and shorter in the quest for fps. In a given draw weight, the shorter bow will generally be faster. But there's a price. The shorter the bow, the more string pinch and the less forgiving the bow will be . In other words, the shorter the bow, the harder it will be to shoot consistently. If you are over 5'9" a 62" bow will be about right. Under 5'9" and a 60" bow will be better a compromise for speed and smoothness. I would not recommend a bow under 58" for anyone.

 

As far as quivers? A "limb attach" quiver might affect the cast of one piece recurve bow. I ended up using a "Catquiver" II.

 

Arrows are removed by reaching back, grasping the shaft while lifting up, pulling the point end out and down. Once you get used to it, it becomes second nature. I strapped the Catquiver to the right side of my climbing stand (strapped to my back) for access while walking and around the trunk of the tree once I was up in the stand.

 

HERE is another source for traditional archery gear. They stock the varous versions of the CATQUIVER.

I've got the 3-1/2 and love it. 

[wildcat junkie]

4 minutes ago, Culvercreek hunt club said:

I've got the 3-1/2 and love it. 

In a tree stand I used to set up on the off side of the tree from expected approach. I would hide behind the Catquiver strapped to the trunk of the tree when a deer approached..

[Culvercreek hunt club]

2 minutes ago, wildcat junkie said:

In a tree stand I used to set up on the off side of the tree from expected approach. I would hide behind the Catquiver strapped to the trunk of the tree when a deer approached..

Nice and quiet but if there is a burdock or burr within 3 miles of you it will find it's way on it. 

[wildcat junkie]

2 minutes ago, wildcat junkie said:

In a tree stand I used to set up on the off side of the tree from expected approach. I would hide behind the Catquiver strapped to the trunk of the tree when a deer approached..

It's a lot easier being "sneaky" when shooting a traditional bow when you don't have the have the bow  perpendicular on the shot.

[moog5050]

18 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

Moog that's some great advice and I may throw that idea towards the wife for an Xmas present.....Right now with two young boys my time is spread pretty thin.....I kinda want to just get this bow going cause I hate to see it sitting in the corner.

That being said looks like I will look into a string.....how about arrows...where is a good place to start?
I assemble my own target and hunting arrows, so wouldn't mind some suggestions on traditional carbon arrows that I have to assemble.

Also whats a good weight for a traditional arrow?


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I like the catquiver recommended by others better than a slide on quiver.  For arrows, goldtip traditionals around 400 spine should tune with the right tip weight.  Personally, I would use 340s with heavier head weight as I like heavy arrows and find them more forgiving.  Start with some 200g heads on 340s and trim the length of the arrow as needed to get good bareshaft flight (but it might be a while before you shoot well enough to do real tuning).  Good luck.  Its both fun and frustrating at times.  But keep it fun.

[mlammerhirt]

If you go with aluminum arrows, throw away the "spine charts" as they will have you about 15-20 pounds over spined.
 
For a 55# recurve @ 28" draw, a 2114/217 Easton XX75 will be about right with a 125gr point. Use 5" feather fletch in a helical twist.
 
Start with your arrows a bit long and cut them back 1/2" at a time to tune.
 
For 28" draw with "broahead clearance" you will end up with a shaft about 29 1/2" long.

How about a carbon arrow? Is here an advantage to aluminum vs. carbon in the traditional world?

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[moog5050]

As I think about it, considering that bow will require a Dacron string, maybe 400 spine is the better choice with some 175-200g heads.

[moog5050]

2 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

How about a carbon arrow? Is here an advantage to aluminum vs. carbon in the traditional world?

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I prefer carbons but aluminum are more old school.  They both work.  Aluminum are generally heavier but if you are accustomed to making carbon, I would stick with them.  If you choose to try aluminum, Easton gamegetters are a reasonable choice.  Most carbon trad arrows are heavy also.

[wildcat junkie]

4 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

How about a carbon arrow? Is here an advantage to aluminum vs. carbon in the traditional world?

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Wood has several advantages when shooting "off the shelf with fingers".

Edited October 31, 2017 by wildcat junkie

[wildcat junkie]

5 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

How about a carbon arrow? Is here an advantage to aluminum vs. carbon in the traditional world?

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Shooting traditional, you will lose and break arrows. Stay with the less expensive options that are still consistent.

[wildcat junkie]

What does the bow measure tip to tip straight across?

[mlammerhirt]

How about veins? Can they be fletched with plastic or are feathers better?

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[mlammerhirt]

Not home right now....will take that measurement tonight.

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[moog5050]

4 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

How about veins? Can they be fletched with plastic or are feathers better?

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Feathers!  Start with some big 5" long ones.

Edited October 31, 2017 by moog5050