My first food plot

[Taylormike]

4 hours ago, JaredA WNY8G said:

Good luck.  We really enjoy doing our plots.  We're lucky to till an old horse pasture about 3/4 acre which booms every year.  Tall Tile Tubers doesn't get touched where I live, don't know why...  Neither does alfalfa.  Clover gets hammered, and beans and peas are usually gone real early lol

I'm surprised Tall Tine Tubers aren't getting hit.  My friend uses it and literaly has a dozen or so deer every night in the plot.

[LetEmGrow]

On 11/27/2017 at 12:36 PM, LET EM GROW said:

If you dont want to break the bank the first year. I stopped using my tractor with disk & Tiller.. as long as there is growing green vegetation, i kill it off with glyphosate(Roundup) from a sprayer, wait a week or 2, then sread seed and roll with lawn roller a time or two. Directly right before a good heavy rain. Results are very good for very little equipment used.  

Otherwise id say anything you can "drag" like a disk, or harrow spring drag, your better off, might just have to put some weight on it.. You dont need bottom plows or anything big like that. unless you enjoy your tractor time. Anything to scratch the top few inches is all you need for food plots. 

I like my no till plantings best so far, but I make sure i have something actively growing all year long, for termination purposes. The dead matter lays on top of seed after rolling, which holds moisture in a lot longer, and promotes germination and growth. Takes some experience to nail this operation though.  

He has a similar name as mine and I could not have said it better muself.  Just get it down to bare dirt and spread it.  Then roll over it with something (truck, atv, lawn tractor, pull a roller, or just let it rain).  Before you buy any of any equipment, try it for a year exactly as he says.  Lime and fert right on the top.  

I own a tractor, disk, tiller, cultipacker, etc....  A lot of it I didn't even need.

[Taylormike]

36 minutes ago, LetEmGrow said:

He has a similar name as mine and I could not have said it better muself.  Just get it down to bare dirt and spread it.  Then roll over it with something (truck, atv, lawn tractor, pull a roller, or just let it rain).  Before you buy any of any equipment, try it for a year exactly as he says.  Lime and fert right on the top.  

I own a tractor, disk, tiller, cultipacker, etc....  A lot of it I didn't even need.

Wow, I've been thinking the opposite.   I was planning to go by the book and do this as professional as possible.  I figured I would take the all in approach and go for it.  Interesting to hear a lot of plotters say it isn't necessary.

[LET EM GROW]

7 hours ago, Taylormike said:

Wow, I've been thinking the opposite.   I was planning to go by the book and do this as professional as possible.  I figured I would take the all in approach and go for it.  Interesting to hear a lot of plotters say it isn't necessary.

You cant go wrong by doing it that way, like many farmers do. All i'm saying is you don't have to. a well prepared seed bed is the perfect way to plant. Farmers are in it for the best possible outcome when their money and careers are on the line, plus id imagine they dont want to "Jump in" to a new farming program they arent used to or familiar with. 

We are only talking food plots, deer farming, still important but not as critical as commercial farming. Also, not breaking up soil keeps weed seeds from releasing, and the no till plantings are more healthy for your soil. You dont get soil compaction like plows and such will do to the soil.  

My buddy does all of his plots with a backpack sprayer, over the shoulder spreader, his cub cadet riding lawn mower and his heavy steel roller. His plots do very well, using the same no till methods i do. Except he doesn't use cover crops. He waits for next springs weeds, grasses and golden rod to grow, then terminate and become a mulch for the next seed. With this method, you just need to rely on rain. 

[stubborn1VT]

17 minutes ago, LET EM GROW said:

You cant go wrong by doing it that way, like many farmers do. All i'm saying is you don't have to. a well prepared seed bed is the perfect way to plant. Farmers are in it for the best possible outcome when their money and careers are on the line, plus id imagine they dont want to "Jump in" to a new farming program they arent used to or familiar with. 

We are only talking food plots, deer farming, still important but not as critical as commercial farming. Also, not breaking up soil keeps weed seeds from releasing, and the no till plantings are more healthy for your soil. You dont get soil compaction like plows and such will do to the soil.  

My buddy does all of his plots with a backpack sprayer, over the shoulder spreader, his cub cadet riding lawn mower and his heavy steel roller. His plots do very well, using the same no till methods i do. Except he doesn't use cover crops. He waits for next springs weeds, grasses and golden rod to grow, then terminate and become a mulch for the next seed. With this method, you just need to rely on rain. 

I agree.  I grew up on a small farm, and worked on a number of larger farms.  There is usually a big difference between the ground farms grow hay, corn or soybeans, and the ground you plant your plots.  The plows, harrows, and culitipacker that I ran on the farm next door won't even fit in the plots I have at my house.  Even scaled down versions of these implements won't do the job around the rocks and stumps in my woods plots.  

Bill Winke of Midwest Whitetail (you can watch his show on Youtube) plants what he calls "poor man plots" with glyphosate, controlled burns, and a hand spreader.  He might cut a few trees with a chainsaw, but otherwise does these plantings by hand.  

I'm not discouraging anyone from good farming practices, but agree that less is more, especially when you are starting out.

[LetEmGrow]

For brassicas and since i have the equipment, I like to disc it up in the spring (March or April).  Sometimes I spread lime at this time.  Other times I just wait until another time and spread it on top but before I cultipack.  I let the weeds grow until about mid-june and then spray them.  I do not turn it over again.  When the time comes (3rd week of July) I cultipack, spread, and then cultipack.

But the above is not required.  Last year I spread brassicas on a plot that was bare ground but had not been turned over in a year nor did I cultipack.  I just spread it.  It was an awesome field of brassicas and this is on heavy clay.  

I would put a chain saw, sanctuary, and sent control above food plots.  Honestly, if I had it all to do over again I might just have mowed and fertilized where I mowed.  Food plots are over-rated.  They are just a food source.  Other than the turnips (meaning the vegetable).  The last 2-3 weeks of November the deer go nuts over the turnips.  But they seem to also abandon them right around now (the beginning of December).  

During October, deer come out in the plots and mill around for 10-15 minutes and then will walk over in the brush and start eating something that naturally grows.  We have a lot of young forest around here, tons of brush, tone of Pagoda Dogwood, honeysuckle, mowed fields, golden rod fields, grape vine, etc... in this area in very alkaline soils.  My PH was naturally 6.6.  

Every place is going to vary.  But unless you have the property to do 10+ acres of food plots then you really are not adding much food to the place.  You are simply providing a food source and those food sources may not out-compete things that naturally grow there.  Things like Corn and Austrian Winter Peas probably would on a year-in/year-out basis.  But you would almost have to plant at least 5 acres of each to ever have any of it standing/last in to bow season.

[LET EM GROW]

 

28 minutes ago, LetEmGrow said:

For brassicas and since i have the equipment, I like to disc it up in the spring (March or April).  Sometimes I spread lime at this time.  Other times I just wait until another time and spread it on top but before I cultipack.  I let the weeds grow until about mid-june and then spray them.  I do not turn it over again.  When the time comes (3rd week of July) I cultipack, spread, and then cultipack.

But the above is not required.  Last year I spread brassicas on a plot that was bare ground but had not been turned over in a year nor did I cultipack.  I just spread it.  It was an awesome field of brassicas and this is on heavy clay.  

I would put a chain saw, sanctuary, and sent control above food plots.  Honestly, if I had it all to do over again I might just have mowed and fertilized where I mowed.  Food plots are over-rated.  They are just a food source.  Other than the turnips (meaning the vegetable).  The last 2-3 weeks of November the deer go nuts over the turnips.  But they seem to also abandon them right around now (the beginning of December).  

During October, deer come out in the plots and mill around for 10-15 minutes and then will walk over in the brush and start eating something that naturally grows.  We have a lot of young forest around here, tons of brush, tone of Pagoda Dogwood, honeysuckle, mowed fields, golden rod fields, grape vine, etc... in this area in very alkaline soils.  My PH was naturally 6.6.  

Every place is going to vary.  But unless you have the property to do 10+ acres of food plots then you really are not adding much food to the place.  You are simply providing a food source and those food sources may not out-compete things that naturally grow there.  Things like Corn and Austrian Winter Peas probably would on a year-in/year-out basis.  But you would almost have to plant at least 5 acres of each to ever have any of it standing/last in to bow season.

Exactly, Food plots are only a bonus, an added place for available forages. Controlling scent, Sanctuaries and chainsaws are much more important than a food plot, no doubt! Food plots become a hobby more than anything else, they are fun and deer use them, what more could we ask for? lol Perfect right? A deer gets everything it needs during antler and fawn growing months, directly from the woods, and any native browse, or native grasses. That is whats's crucial. On my neighbors, being my favorite hunting property, I cant use a saw, therefore i plant food instead because its allowed.. And i have to compete with neighbors who all share the same habitat Managing passion that I do! Mainly Winter foods is what I plant to help them through the tougher months of the year. 

You have a good soil to start with, Mine was as low as Ph 5.1 in places, and never higher than 5.5Ph.. Im cheap and don't like to spend money on limes and fertilizers, but only once in a great while. So i rotate crops and try to produce as much organic matter as possible. 

[Taylormike]

Well, to be honest this is disappointing to hear.  I've read some great things about food plots.  Either way, I'm stubborn as can be and plan on doing this plot as as best I can.  I'm hoping to get an increase of deer activity both on and off season.  I plan on showing a lil of the process as well as posting my deer activity pre and post plot.

[DDT]

On 11/25/2017 at 10:51 PM, Taylormike said:

I plan on planting tall tine tubers from whitetail institute, about 3/4 acre.

I planted about an acre of Tall Tines 3rd week of July. Grew great. One thing I did was added a 1/2# of daikon radishes to it for the area that hadn't been plotted before. They really break up the hard pan. Also have been incorporating pellet lime every year with a 3pt cone spreader. Bulk won't go through the cone. Wish I had access to a bulk spreader, its cheaper. Also planted Winter Greens, deer are using both. 

[Taylormike]

12 minutes ago, DDT said:

I planted about an acre of Tall Tines 3rd week of July. Grew great. One thing I did was added a 1/2# of daikon radishes to it for the area that hadn't been plotted before. They really break up the hard pan. Also have been incorporating pellet lime every year with a 3pt cone spreader. Bulk won't go through the cone. Wish I had access to a bulk spreader, its cheaper. Also planted Winter Greens, deer are using both. 

Did the deer respond to Tall Tines in October and November?  Did they eat the leafy vegetation and then move on to the turnips?

[LET EM GROW]

I used to strictly plant only tall tine tubers in one plot(late season) and Winter greens in another. In my experience the winter greens would get hit hard after a couple frosts. Where as the tall tine wouldn't get hit til it got good and cold out and snow ... they wouldn't leave the turnips at that point. Or mix them both together, i dont think the tal tine tubers put out enough leaf forage compared to winter greens

 

[Taylormike]

19 minutes ago, LET EM GROW said:

I used to strictly plant only tall tine tubers in one plot(late season) and Winter greens in another. In my experience the winter greens would get hit hard after a couple frosts. Where as the tall tine wouldn't get hit til it got good and cold out and snow ... they wouldn't leave the turnips at that point. Or mix them both together, i dont think the tal tine tubers put out enough leaf forage compared to winter greens

 

Interesting, what manufacturer of Tall Tines did you plant?

[stubborn1VT]

5 hours ago, LetEmGrow said:

  

I would put a chain saw, sanctuary, and sent control above food plots.  Honestly, if I had it all to do over again I might just have mowed and fertilized where I mowed.  Food plots are over-rated.  They are just a food source.  Other than the turnips (meaning the vegetable).  The last 2-3 weeks of November the deer go nuts over the turnips.  But they seem to also abandon them right around now (the beginning of December).  
 

I agree at this point.  I don't know what post I read it in, but somebody wrote that they wish they had just mowed and fertilized.  That is the conclusion I have come to basically.  I would have mowed, limed, and done a little fertilizer.  I think I could gain just as much with lime as anything, other than a chainsaw.  

My focus will be more on chainsaw work, improving my access routes, using brush to steer movement, creating browse, maintaining apple trees etc.  I'm hoping to transition most of my plots into clover because it's low maintenance.  I will still mess around with soybeans.  I think they are a game changer in some places.  

I am also putting in a small orchard.  It will be multi purpose.  I want to have apples for deer, but I also want apples for eating, cider and cobbler.  I'm only talking 12-15 trees, but I have seen how significant one good tree can be.  

Good luck with your plots.  They can be pretty rewarding.  In hindsight, I feel like I could have made better use of my time and energy.  It's all part of the process, and it sure is fun to keep "hunting" all year long.  

[stubborn1VT]

1 hour ago, Taylormike said:

Interesting, what manufacturer of Tall Tines did you plant?

Tall Tines are a Whitetail Institute product, I believe.  

[Taylormike]

1 hour ago, stubborn1VT said:

Tall Tines are a Whitetail Institute product, I believe.  

Yep, those are the ones.

[corydd7]

4 hours ago, Taylormike said:

Well, to be honest this is disappointing to hear.  I've read some great things about food plots.  Either way, I'm stubborn as can be and plan on doing this plot as as best I can.  I'm hoping to get an increase of deer activity both on and off season.  I plan on showing a lil of the process as well as posting my deer activity pre and post plot.

I would say planting food plots is a way to gurentee deer and wildlife activity on your land. I can' think of a reason not to add a food source even if it helps a travel corridor nearby. I have seen a drastic change in one year with only an acre combined on my land 40 acres. It all depends on the setup but go for it and enjoy!

[LetEmGrow]

5 hours ago, stubborn1VT said:

My focus will be more on chainsaw work, improving my access routes, using brush to steer movement, creating browse, maintaining apple trees etc.  I'm hoping to transition most of my plots into clover because it's low maintenance.  I will still mess around with soybeans.  I think they are a game changer in some places.  

Me too.  I plant a total of 4 acres in 13 different plots across my property. I am going to put about 1/3 of it in to a clover/ chicory mix this spring.  Hoping I can frost seed it in.  Gonna try and spread it in late February and hopefully through snow.  It would cut down on a lot of work if it will frost seed.

[607 HUNTER]

Good luck with the food plot, I am going to attempt my first next year also.

I look forward to seeing the updated photos next year of the food plots process and deer action ! 

[LET EM GROW]

15 hours ago, Taylormike said:

Interesting, what manufacturer of Tall Tines did you plant?

Whitetail Institute Makes Tall Tine Tubers.

This is the seed label for Winter Greens. 

And For Tall Tine Tubers, I believe it is just Purple Top Turnip, and The"Tall Tine Turnip" WI genetic version of PTT. 

I had decent luck with them but no longer plant this companies seed. 

[chas0218]

1 hour ago, LET EM GROW said:

Whitetail Institute Makes Tall Tine Tubers.

This is the seed label for Winter Greens. 

And For Tall Tine Tubers, I believe it is just Purple Top Turnip, and The"Tall Tine Turnip" WI genetic version of PTT. 

I had decent luck with them but no longer plant this companies seed. 

You doing your own mixes? That was my plan, combine the seeds for the plants I want in my plot(s). Unfortunately a lot of seed companies have a ton of weed seed in their mixes. It costs more but all things considered you're getting a better product in my opinion buying straight seed.

Edited December 1, 2017 by chas0218

[Taylormike]

I'm a newbie and no where capable of blending my own seeds.  I'll try their products and go from there.

[LET EM GROW]

2 hours ago, chas0218 said:

You doing your own mixes? That was my plan, combine the seeds for the plants I want in my plot(s). Unfortunately a lot of seed companies have a ton of weed seed in their mixes. It costs more but all things considered you're getting a better product in my opinion buying straight seed.

I try to yes, But I first look for a reputable PLS company that carries blends I like. Otherwise I'll order individual seed species and make my own blends. The main reason I like to make my own blends, is because my neighbors all food plot as well, and basically plant mono-culture plots or the standard blended bag on a shelf. I try to offer something they dont have, or a better seed than they are using. 

On top of the weed seeds, there is a ton of seeds out there with "Coatings" not saying its bad, but IMO there is better, when it comes to certain seeds. 

[LET EM GROW]

1 hour ago, Taylormike said:

I'm a newbie and no where capable of blending my own seeds.  I'll try their products and go from there.

Nothing wrong with that, Get your feet on the ground. There is a TON to learn about food Plots. Unless there is a seasoned veteran showing you how to do it, You will learn each and every year my friend! Its an addicting, fun and expensive hobby you are beginning. 

[chas0218]

23 minutes ago, LET EM GROW said:

I try to yes, But I first look for a reputable PLS company that carries blends I like. Otherwise I'll order individual seed species and make my own blends. The main reason I like to make my own blends, is because my neighbors all food plot as well, and basically plant mono-culture plots or the standard blended bag on a shelf. I try to offer something they dont have, or a better seed than they are using. 

On top of the weed seeds, there is a ton of seeds out there with "Coatings" not saying its bad, but IMO there is better, when it comes to certain seeds. 

Do you mix perennials with annuals often? I was thinking about doing this in the one plot in my thread. I would likely have clover then over seed with brassicas in one then do a LabLab, soybean, cow pea, and alfafa mix. Hancock's ultimate wildlife is close to what I wanted and may just go with that.

Here is the Hancock Ult. blend

Mixture Contains:

• LabLab
• Soybeans
• WGF Sorghum
• Sunflowers
• Iron Clay Peas

Planting Rate: 25 lbs. per acre

Edited December 1, 2017 by chas0218

[Taylormike]

2 hours ago, LET EM GROW said:

Nothing wrong with that, Get your feet on the ground. There is a TON to learn about food Plots. Unless there is a seasoned veteran showing you how to do it, You will learn each and every year my friend! Its an addicting, fun and expensive hobby you are beginning. 

Yep, said perfectly. I'm already having fun, addicted and spending more money than I have.  I can tell, I'll love it though...