goosifer Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 I finally got around to cleaning my muzzleloader (yes, I know, should have done it weeks ago.) It has a Nitride-treated Bergara barrel. On the bottle of the CVA barrel blaster cleaning patches it says to wipe with a dry patch, and then with Barrel Blaster Rust Prevention patches once clean. It sounds like the Barrel Blaster Rust Prevention patches are a type of oil. Can I use regular gun oil, like Rem Oil for this step? (I know the solvents/cleaning patches for muzzleloaders are completely different than regular guns, but what about the rust prevention/oil part?) If not, i will just suck it up and order the Barrel Blaster Rust Prevention patches. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawdwaz Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 (edited) 18 minutes ago, goosifer said: I finally got around to cleaning my muzzleloader (yes, I know, should have done it weeks ago.) It has a Nitride-treated Bergara barrel. On the bottle of the CVA barrel blaster cleaning patches it says to wipe with a dry patch, and then with Barrel Blaster Rust Prevention patches once clean. It sounds like the Barrel Blaster Rust Prevention patches are a type of oil. Can I use regular gun oil, like Rem Oil for this step? (I know the solvents/cleaning patches for muzzleloaders are completely different than regular guns, but what about the rust prevention/oil part?) If not, i will just suck it up and order the Barrel Blaster Rust Prevention patches. Thanks. Run a lightly oiled patch down the barrel now.......next time you shoot it, a few dry patches will get all the remaining oil out and you're ready to roll, Joel. Edited January 23, 2018 by Lawdwaz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goosifer Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 4 minutes ago, Lawdwaz said: Run a lightly oiled patch down the barrel now.......next time you shoot it, a few dry patches will get all the remaining oil out and you're ready to roll, Joel. thanks. I forgot to ask, should I oil around where the firing pin assembly touches the face of the breech plug or the outside of the barrel? Last question, to clean the outside of the scope, just a damp rag? Windex? thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawdwaz Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 32 minutes ago, goosifer said: thanks. I forgot to ask, should I oil around where the firing pin assembly touches the face of the breech plug or the outside of the barrel? Last question, to clean the outside of the scope, just a damp rag? Windex? thanks again. I'm not familiar with the guts of your gun but I wouldn't be afraid to wipe down almost any part of it with a LIGHTLY oiled cloth. The only part I'd shy away from is the touch hole area, other than the threads. LIGHTLY Store in a dry place and call me in the morning..........oh wait, scratch that part. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sailinghudson25 Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) What powder were you using? Did the gun get fired? I have used pyrodex loose powder, but now use real blackpowder in both modern inline, percussion, and flintlocks I have. Here's how I do it.... Pull the breech if possible. Dip one end in warm water with a touch of dish soap or better yet pinesol, then push a patch back and forth. Then take a brush and push it back and forth a few passes. Change to clean warm water only, then push a patch back and forth a few more times. Push a dry patch or two, then spray inside with WD40 and push a patch with some WD40 down it. Wipe down the exterior with a wet towel, then WD40. IF the muzzleloader shoots sabots, I use a bore solvent that disolves plastic fouling. The proshot red solvent works good for me. I push a patch with WD40 down it the next day, if it looks ok, i'm good. If I see too much residue or any rust, I clean it again. I also cover the scope lenses with plastic bags held in by rubber bands. Too much cleaning of the lenses removes the optics coating, which hurts low light performance. The less you windex them, the better. but do it if it needs it. The breech get soap and water only. The breech is stored by itself and not installed. The barrel points down to drip out oil. IF the gun is percussion or flintlock, I remove the flash hole or nipple and clean the channel area. If the gun will be used for hunting, I clean with alcohol before using to ensure nothing will cause me ignition issues. If the gun is put away for longer than a few months. I will use rem oil or motor oil. Seen lots of old firearms in wonderful shape just from good old WD40...... Edited January 24, 2018 by sailinghudson25 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TACC Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Great infoSent from my SM-G900T3 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 spot on the receiver right behind the breech plug and on the scope over the breech plug are important to clean with lightly oiled cloth. they'll have slight amounts of powder residue blow back from the breech plug. if left on cleaned they'll rust. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Five Seasons Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 i use the cva rust preventer patches. bp and oil don't play well. stay with the patches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loworange88 Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I've had good luck with Ballistol. It is a natural base, it neutralizes the acids in the BP residue. It can be used for a variety of other things too. https://ballistol.com/uses/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawdwaz Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 Lots of snake oil available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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