zeus1gdsm Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Just throwing this one out there.. Wife's front caliper seized. Not having the time to diy it like I would in the summer I took it in. Turns out rear seized too. After several hours of work they determined it was water in the lines and fluid was not coming out of the bleeders on the two wheels. Changed master cylinder, new rotors and pads and a caliper on the front. I picked it up and the brake pedal was hard as a rock.. drove it around the block. On general braking the pedal functioned nor.ally. however in some random instances it would be a very slow brake. Causing the vehicle to stop further out than intended. No rhyme or reason to this happening. Standing on the pedal did not "lock" them up. Brought it back. They drove it. Bled the brakes again and said it wss good to go. Now I have more pedal travel. But it still hits a rock wall after an inch or two. Thought it just needed some break in period. I was able to finally get it to lock up today. However I still had two instances of weak brake power causing me to end up with nose in the intersection. This was random and under general braking pressure. It's almost as if the calipers are not squeezing hard enough. No general pull one way or the other. Thoughts? 08 Hyundai elantra Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy K Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 If you put constant pressure on the pedal while parked ,will it stay or will it slowly go to the floor ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PREDATORS Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Sounds like something may be happening with the ABS module. Some vehicles require brakes to be bleed with the use of a scan tool. May be a good starting point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PREDATORS Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Actually just looked into and your car does require a scan/ diagnostic tool to properly bleed the brakes. It will activate ABS system to get air out of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeus1gdsm Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 I was thinking air as well..No I checked for the booster.. same stiffness with car off.. pumps up about 1/2way. ..and drops upon ignition to the rock wall.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeus1gdsm Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Had this done at a mavis/colemuffler.... They should have the ability to activate the diagnostic correct?They must have filled and sucked out the brakes fluid 3 or 4 times before changing the master cynlinder.. due to the water they said the rings in the cylinder were all swollen shut on the 2 bad wheels but bleeding fine on the other 2Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robhuntandfish Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 might be a bad "new" master cylinder as well. does sound like an air issue. Wheel cylinders were checked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeus1gdsm Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Is there a link for that diagnostic brake bleeding available?Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeus1gdsm Posted January 31, 2018 Author Share Posted January 31, 2018 Wheel clyinders?Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Four Season Whitetail's Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 (edited) Make sure the calipers were not put on the wrong sides? Sounds stupid but happens a lot. Bleeders up. Never have heard of water in the line? Thats kinda how they try to get you to buy a brake fluid flush. Causes more problems then what started with. They should have the Snap On Modem to bleed the lines. Edited January 31, 2018 by Real World Hunter 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dom Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 From what has been described you have a vaccume problem/leak or depending on the year of the car the rubber lines can be failing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Lucky Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Hook up scan tool and bleed dump solenoids in abs module. Have to do on all wheels. Also a pressure bleeder maybe required or a hose off bleeder into a bottle of brake clean. Brake fluid attracts moisture and thats how it can get into system. They probably didnt fix the issue to begin with. Sounds like proportion valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeus1gdsm Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Dropping it back off tonight. Advised them of bleeding the abs vakves.and checking the vacuum... They have a guy who comes in to do those diagnostics apparently. So they will get ahold of him for tomorrow.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeus1gdsm Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 There was visible surface water in the master when the lid was off.. very shiny. After several fills and purges.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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