Just bought a Kawasaki Prairie 360

[Bionic]

Swapped over the small 11" single row LED bar that I had on my old quad.  I am a light freak, find lighting fun, no idea why, but we all have hobbies, its one of many hobbies of mine.  It is not wired yet, need to pick up a few relays before wiring.  I typically run premade relay harnesses, on vehicles,  but on this project, I wanted a specific switch.  I bought a double switch, that has weatherproof boots,  and is illuminated.   The nice part is that it clamps to the handlebar, so no drilling, or making plates, and dealing with the brainstorming.   One switch will run the 11" bar, and one will run 4 hyperspot LED pods.   One pair of pods will be delivered tomorrow actually, and I will get them mounted on.  Not sure if this is really of any interest, but maybe it is just something different for members.  Hope you enjoy, either way.

Edited March 30, 2018 by Bionic

[Adkhunter1590]

I like it! I’ve been wanting to put a light bar on my brute force for awhile now. But I’m terrible with wiring and all that so I haven’t really looked into how to do it yet. They sure do make night riding a lot safer though!

[Bionic]

19 minutes ago, Adkhunter1590 said:

I like it! I’ve been wanting to put a light bar on my brute force for awhile now. But I’m terrible with wiring and all that so I haven’t really looked into how to do it yet. They sure do make night riding a lot safer though!

Thank you, i can't wait to use it again!

Honestly,  it is very simple to wire these type of lights.  You can get premade wiring harnesses for light bars, and pods, etc.  Basically, you plug the harness into the plug on the light assembly, then run the red wire right to your battery, then the black wire right to your battery, and typically these harnesses have a switch buily right in.  You would just need to route the switch to a place of choice on the dash.  You are simply routing the wires, not even wiring it.

I can show you an example if you would like...

There are several different styles, and grades of quality.   You get what you pay for to a point.   For an atv I chose inexpensive parts, that had extremely high reviews for hundreds of reviews.  My new Escape, I bought a very high end LED bar for that since it is exposed to salt, road debris, rain, fluctuating temps, sun...

Higher priced priced LED products are typically sealed better for moisture protection,  and have better harnesses, better relays, better switches, better optics and better voltage regulation.  Over powering LEDs will drstically reduce the life of the LED, etc.  My ATV will really only see decent weather, the harshest element is will see will be the pressure washer...or transporting it in the rain.  I have it for trail exploration.   It wont be caked in mud, or stored outdoors...it is stored in my basement.

I am rambling, but there are a lot of LED products, and lots of price variations,  and quality differences.  Think about all ends before purchasing, as far as quality to the price, compared to how often it will be used.

Oh, and if you do decide to buy a bar, i suggest a seperate switch, so you can shut it off if you encounter other riders, or have to follow others.  Another idea is you could tap into the high beam wire on your machine.  This way if you switch the high beam on your stock headlights, the bar will light up.  Its a way to cheat, I can also explain that in detail, but I suggest seperate wiring.  You want to be sure the splice into the factory wire is sealed, otherwise down the road it can lead to issues.   

Edited March 30, 2018 by Bionic

[Adkhunter1590]

Thank you, i can't wait to use it again!
Honestly,  it is very simple to wire these type of lights.  You can get premade wiring harnesses for light bars, and pods, etc.  Basically, you plug the harness into the plug on the light assembly, then run the red wire right to your battery, then the black wire right to your battery, and typically these harnesses have a switch buily right in.  You would just need to route the switch to a place of choice on the dash.  You are simply routing the wires, not even wiring it.
I can show you an example if you would like...
There are several different styles, and grades of quality.   You get what you pay for to a point.   For an atv I chose inexpensive parts, that had extremely high reviews for hundreds of reviews.  My new Escape, I bought a very high end LED bar for that since it is exposed to salt, road debris, rain, fluctuating temps, sun...
Higher priced priced LED products are typically sealed better for moisture protection,  and have better harnesses, better relays, better switches, better optics and better voltage regulation.  Over powering LEDs will drstically reduce the life of the LED, etc.  My ATV will really only see decent weather, the harshest element is will see will be the pressure washer...or transporting it in the rain.  I have it for trail exploration.   It wont be caked in mud, or stored outdoors...it is stored in my basement.
I am rambling, but there are a lot of LED products, and lots of price variations,  and quality differences.  Think about all ends before purchasing, as far as quality to the price, compared to how often it will be used.
Oh, and if you do decide to buy a bar, i suggest a seperate switch, so you can shut it off if you encounter other riders, or have to follow others.  Another idea is you could tap into the high beam wire on your machine.  This way if you switch the high beam on your stock headlights, the bar will light up.  Its a way to cheat, I can also explain that in detail, but I suggest seperate wiring.  You want to be sure the splice into the factory wire is sealed, otherwise down the road it can lead to issues.   

Well that doesn’t sound all that hard now that you lay it out like that. Honestly I never even looked into how to wire one up yet. I just figured it would be a pain in the ass and have put it on the back burner for some other time when I have some free time to look into it. But the premade harnesses sound simple enough. I think I’d probably have to invest in a decent weatherproof light. I don’t mud bog, like snorkel required type mud bog but I occasionally get into mud holes and water crossings that push the limits when I ride with this one group of guys. I use my machine for work around the farm more than anything but I do get out and play now and then so I’d probably burn up a light bar that wasn’t sealed really well. I’m guessing that’s why I see such big price differences in light bars.

[Bionic]

9 hours ago, Adkhunter1590 said:

 

 

Well that doesn’t sound all that hard now that you lay it out like that. Honestly I never even looked into how to wire one up yet. I just figured it would be a pain in the ass and have put it on the back burner for some other time when I have some free time to look into it. But the premade harnesses sound simple enough. I think I’d probably have to invest in a decent weatherproof light. I don’t mud bog, like snorkel required type mud bog but I occasionally get into mud holes and water crossings that push the limits when I ride with this one group of guys. I use my machine for work around the farm more than anything but I do get out and play now and then so I’d probably burn up a light bar that wasn’t sealed really well. I’m guessing that’s why I see such big price differences in light bars.

 

 

If you can work on a farm, you would be more than capable of mounting, and wiring a bar up.  There are good inexpensive choices too.  I have confidence in the brand I will be using for my atv.  My dad has a 9" double row bar, and 2 flood pods on his ATV, by the brand Auxbeam that have been great so far.   I have to worries putting these up to the elements if needed.  Some guys even run a small thin bead of clear silicone, around the seams for extra protection.  For the price Auxbeam charges, and the quality, and bang for the buck, it wouldnt be the end of the world.  I highly recommend Auxbeam when choosing the Amazon route.

Dads atv.  9" auxbeam for highbeam, and a pair of 4" flood pods for low beam.

Edited March 30, 2018 by Bionic

[Bionic]

ADK....

Here is some direction for you to help get started for when you  are looking to buy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T9BJ2GE/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522408845&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=auxbeam%2B20"%2Bled%2Blight%2Bbar%2Bcombo%2Bwith%2Bharness&th=1&psc=1

They have all sorts of size bars on the market, 3" pods up to 54" or so, for sale from numerous brands.  

They are sell clamps that cam mount the light(s) onto your rack, or frame, without fabbing brackets, or drilling holes.  Search "atv rack light bar mounts".

Heres is a relay harness example, again numerous grades of quality out there, you get what you pay for to a point here as well.  

The bottom plug with two pigtail wires on the very bottom...they connect to your light bar if you buy one without a plug on it.  Then you plug it in to the harness, you can see the similar plug just above it.  After that the red end goes to the battery positive, and the black end goes to battery negative.   That simple.   Its even simpler when you buy a led product with the plug already installed on the bar.

Be sure to have zip ties on hand, electrical tape, and a socket, or wrench to loosen the battery cables for hookup.  If you want to do it proffesionally, solder, and shrinktube, and lume everything.

 

[Adkhunter1590]

ADK....
Here is some direction for you to help get started for when you  are looking to buy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00T9BJ2GE/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522408845&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=auxbeam%2B20"%2Bled%2Blight%2Bbar%2Bcombo%2Bwith%2Bharness&th=1&psc=1
They have all sorts of size bars on the market, 3" pods up to 54" or so, for sale from numerous brands.  
They are sell clamps that cam mount the light(s) onto your rack, or frame, without fabbing brackets, or drilling holes.  Search "atv rack light bar mounts".
Heres is a relay harness example, again numerous grades of quality out there, you get what you pay for to a point here as well.  
The bottom plug with two pigtail wires on the very bottom...they connect to your light bar if you buy one without a plug on it.  Then you plug it in to the harness, you can see the similar plug just above it.  After that the red end goes to the battery positive, and the black end goes to battery negative.   That simple.   Its even simpler when you buy a led product with the plug already installed on the bar.
Be sure to have zip ties on hand, electrical tape, and a socket, or wrench to loosen the battery cables for hookup.  If you want to do it proffesionally, solder, and shrinktube, and lume everything.
 

Awesome man thanks! I’ll definitely check those out and order some here soon. I always figured I could figure it out but electric and wiring gives me the heeby jeebes sometimes lol. I’ve been shocked and messed up more wire than I care to remember lol. My old man used to get pissed off and just take over. He wasn’t the best teacher ever with his lack of patience. Must be where I get my impatience from. Haha. He’s not around anymore so I’ll figure it all out without someone yelling in my ear. But I sure do appreciate the info! Hope your Kawi runs strong for you and gets you to new places your old machine couldn’t! I’ve been a Kawasaki fan for many many years. I raced MX for 12 years and ran nothing but Kawasaki’s for 11 of those years. They make the best machines in my mind. There’s a good reason their atvs hold value!

[Five Seasons]

sort of a personal question, but if i remember right you're missing a hand. Any mods needed to use the brake or throttle? 

Edited March 30, 2018 by Belo

[Bionic]

1 hour ago, Adkhunter1590 said:

 

 

Awesome man thanks! I’ll definitely check those out and order some here soon. I always figured I could figure it out but electric and wiring gives me the heeby jeebes sometimes lol. I’ve been shocked and messed up more wire than I care to remember lol. My old man used to get pissed off and just take over. He wasn’t the best teacher ever with his lack of patience. Must be where I get my impatience from. Haha. He’s not around anymore so I’ll figure it all out without someone yelling in my ear. But I sure do appreciate the info! Hope your Kawi runs strong for you and gets you to new places your old machine couldn’t! I’ve been a Kawasaki fan for many many years. I raced MX for 12 years and ran nothing but Kawasaki’s for 11 of those years. They make the best machines in my mind. There’s a good reason their atvs hold value!

 

 

Ever any questions, don't hesitate.

[Bionic]

1 hour ago, Belo said:

sort of a personal question, but if i remember right you're missing a hand. Any mods needed to use the break or throttle? 

Yup, thats me.

 

No mods what so ever,  i dont believe in brakes.  Just kidding, but no, no machine mods necessary for me.

I actually always had stick shift beater cars, never an issue, so the atv is cake.

My prosthesis can handle the steering, and holding on.  Honestly, if I am rifle huntjng, or on my property, I wont even wear the fake arm.

Edited March 30, 2018 by Bionic

[mlammerhirt]

Bionic why two thumb switches for your light bar? If I was just going to install the one light bar...won't I only need one thumb switch?
Also what brand do you recommend for the relay/switch?
I have wanted to put the light bar on both of my machines for a while....just wasn't sure how hard it would be.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Bionic]

2 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

Bionic why two thumb switches for your light bar? If I was just going to install the one light bar...won't I only need one thumb switch?
Also what brand do you recommend for the relay/switch?
I have wanted to put the light bar on both of my machines for a while....just wasn't sure how hard it would be.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

Two switches because I will use one for the light bar, and I already have plans for 4 other individual lights, in which I will run the 4 on the vacant extra switch.

As for a harness recommendation I have a lot of experience with hid kits, and hid projector retrofits  where the same principles apply, and you run a relay harnesses.  In that case I recommend Morimoto(The Retrofit Source) products.   Pricey,  however the wires are in a netted loom, plus on the car harness, they run one relay per headlight.  This eliminates some failed headlight ignitions, where a single relay sometimes will create.  I will take a look at their website, I know they make a relay harness, but did not want to go that route.  I wanted a little project this time.  However, for an ATV, and the low draw of the LEDs, I wouldnt shy away from a harness from Amazon, that has a ton of reviews with say 4.5 out of 5 stars.  Plenty on there for about $10, so its not the end of the world if it doesn't pan out.  Although, I would rather do it once.  

This is what I would buy if I wanted the best.  I run these harnesses in my vehicles, it doesn't compare to the $10 harnesses.

You would have to splice on a 9006 socket onto the two wires exiting your light bar.  They sell them also under common connections.

Also, keep in mind that harness have a max draw of amperage to them.  So keep an eye on that, and of which light, and how many lights will be wired to that harness

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/wiring/relay-harnesses/hd-relay-light-bar.html

 

[BigVal]

Looking good! I had a light bar on my last yfz it was nice 

[Bionic]

2 hours ago, BigVal said:

Looking good! I had a light bar on my last yfz it was nice 

Awesome! I love assininely bright lights

My pair of hyperspot led pods came tonight! I feel like a 5 yr old.

[Bionic]

Mounted up 2 of the 4 hyperspot pods.  I cant wait to use this quad. 

 

[Bionic]

Started wiring up my lights

Making my own relay harnesses, solder, and shrink tube all connections.  The lights will operate like factory.  Sharing key hot power from the factory accesory wire, spliced in after the factory accesory fuse, this way its fuse protected.  Running 2 relays now, will use one for the 11" bat, and one for the 4 hyperspot pods.  Having a good time tinkering in the basement with this.  

[Bionic]

Finished my wiring last night.  Ran two relays as i probably already mentioned.  I have it wired just like factory, key needs to be on to energize the relays, and to illuminate the switch, and led lights out front.  

Tonight I am starting the install on the 2" lift, looking forward to it.   

[Adkhunter1590]

Where you live at, I think I just need to drop mine off for you to wire up lol. Your work is as good as OEM! Looks great man, those lights will be killer

[Moho81]

Great work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bionic]

3 hours ago, Adkhunter1590 said:

Where you live at, I think I just need to drop mine off for you to wire up lol. Your work is as good as OEM! Looks great man, those lights will be killer

Sullivan county, near the Delaware!  Id set you up of nearby, absolutely.   Thank you, my dad has been verbally explaining it to me, as said prior, i typically run premade relay harnesses.  He used to wire up all the sheriff's cars, so I can't imagine that, but needless to say, he is a guru with wiring.  I did this 100% myself,  although he has taught me everything, its great!

Starting the lift kit NOW.  Super excited.  I like making my vehicle's "mine".

[Bionic]

1 hour ago, Moho81 said:

Great work!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! I am having a blast with this, jist tinkering in my basement, awaiting for the yard to melt, and dry up enough to use this for the winter tree damage outside.  Figured it is something to peek at for members while the weather is not so nice.

[Bionic]

Front lift is in.  

[Bionic]

Rear is in

[Bionic]

Done, im quite happy with it.

[Adkhunter1590]

Looks good! That lift will sure help out with the added clearance. Now all you need is a tad more aggressive tires and you’d be totally set. New tires for added ply thickness at the very least. Those look like the stock tires, same ones came on my brute force, they are only 2ply! I ripped the sidewall open very quickly. I will never understand why these manufacturers continue to put thin ply and low tread lug tires on these machines.