Vinyl plank Flooring help.

[mowin]

So, thinking of going with a high end vinyl plank flooring.  Last home had hardwood, and while the wood wasn't damaged too bad, the finish coat and stain was due mainly from the dogs. Well, me too.

So my question is, if doing the entire house with the same color/style flooring, do I need a transition or "T" moulding when going from room too room?  Say hallway to bedroom.  

[moog5050]

  On 7/29/2019 at 2:03 PM, mowin said:

So, thinking of going with a high end vinyl plank flooring.  Last home had hardwood, and while the wood wasn't damaged too bad, the finish coat and stain was due mainly from the dogs. Well, me too.

So my question is, if doing the entire house with the same color/style flooring, do I need a transition or "T" moulding when going from room too room?  Say hallway to bedroom.  

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If everything is level and your are running the planks same direction, no need to for a moulding.  When I installed our hardwoods, I only used a threshold where there was a change of flooring type - ie hardwood to carpet.  In fact, I didn't even need them where hardwood met tile as it was level.

[mowin]

  On 7/29/2019 at 2:21 PM, moog5050 said:

If everything is level and your are running the planks same direction, no need to for a moulding.  When I installed our hardwoods, I only used a threshold where there was a change of flooring type - ie hardwood to carpet.  In fact, I didn't even need them where hardwood met tile as it was level.

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Yes, everything will be running in the same direction.  The only height difference will be into the bathrooms as they will be tiled and I realized I'll need to get the stepdown trim for those area's. 

[Culvercreek hunt club]

  On 7/29/2019 at 2:33 PM, mowin said:

Yes, everything will be running in the same direction.  The only height difference will be into the bathrooms as they will be tiled and I realized I'll need to get the stepdown trim for those area's. 

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The moldings are required but not for a transition of height. All laminate flooring is free floating (different that nailed hardwood). It is actually very surprising how much it can expand and contract. That is the main function of those T moldings. (to hold the flooring down and let it expand and contract separately form the adjoining floor.) Follow the manufacturers instructions. If you run into rooms from hallways and put too much together in one mass you run the risk of a separation or a bind and buckle.  In a normal sized bedroom I wouldn't worry about a closet or an attached bathroom going in without the transition but be careful connection large rooms. 

 

I put the 100% waterproof vinyl in our family room since it is below grade. Great product and I love it. The actual wood texture is very nice. 

[moog5050]

I stand corrected.  Sorry for bad advice.  Not even worth what you paid for it.  lol

[mowin]

I called the manufacturer, Armstrong, and they said this product with the rigid core technology, doesn't need it going from room to room, BUT, large spaces COULD pose a problem. 

Lol, dam vague if you ask me.  

So I called a supplier/installer, and was told hallway to bedroom, bedroom to closet,not needed.  Kitchen/dining, into living room and then to hallway, it a good idea. 

Sounds like Culver Creek nailed it.  

Edited July 29, 2019 by mowin

[goosifer]

as a practical matter, it's hard to install longs lengths of planks, anyway, so if you are doing multiple rooms, may as well put in a T moulding. As well, if you decide to change a room, each room has it's own self contained flooring.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

  On 7/29/2019 at 10:05 PM, goosifer said:

as a practical matter, it's hard to install longs lengths of planks, anyway, so if you are doing multiple rooms, may as well put in a T moulding. As well, if you decide to change a room, each room has it's own self contained flooring.

The type I installed was one board at a time. You didn’t have to fold in an entire row at a time like the laminates use to

[nyslowhand]

Vinyl planks are generally more $/sq' than wood laminates. Not sure why you'd want vinyl in areas that aren't prone to water &/or spills. Kids, pets,..?

Had very good luck with Shaw's vinyl plank flooring from Home Depot in kitchen and adjoining laundry room. Brand/style was much thicker (~6mm) than normal ~3mm laminate planks. NO underlayments or leveling needed! Can order any wood-like style and return all un-opened cartons, even special ordered items. IRC, when being installed there was very minimal expansion gaps left along the walls. Regular carpet end/transition molding was used between rug/planks. Whatever floats your boat!!!

[mowin]

  On 7/31/2019 at 8:01 AM, nyslowhand said:

Vinyl planks are generally more $/sq' than wood laminates. Not sure why you'd want vinyl in areas that aren't prone to water &/or spills. Kids, pets,..?

Had very good luck with Shaw's vinyl plank flooring from Home Depot in kitchen and adjoining laundry room. Brand/style was much thicker (~6mm) than normal ~3mm laminate planks. NO underlayments or leveling needed! Can order any wood-like style and return all un-opened cartons, even special ordered items. IRC, when being installed there was very minimal expansion gaps left along the walls. Regular carpet end/transition molding was used between rug/planks. Whatever floats your boat!!!

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My initial post clearly states why we're going with vinyl plank.  

I'd definitely don't want laminate, can't refinish. Engineered hardwood, if it a minimum of 3mm thick, can be refinished once, twice if it's 5mm thick.  

The LVP we're getting has a 20mm thick wear layer.  And it's not as expensive as a good quality engineered or true hardwood. 

[goosifer]

  On 7/31/2019 at 10:56 AM, mowin said:

My initial post clearly states why we're going with vinyl plank.  

I'd definitely don't want laminate, can't refinish. Engineered hardwood, if it a minimum of 3mm thick, can be refinished once, twice if it's 5mm thick.  

The LVP we're getting has a 20mm thick wear layer.  And it's not as expensive as a good quality engineered or true hardwood. 

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fwiw, I believe the wear layer is in mils, not mm. There is some nice lvp stuff out there. If you are installing yourself, its pretty easy to work with. I got a pallet of cheap lvp at an auction a few years ago for my rentals.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

  On 7/31/2019 at 10:56 AM, mowin said:

My initial post clearly states why we're going with vinyl plank.  

I'd definitely don't want laminate, can't refinish. Engineered hardwood, if it a minimum of 3mm thick, can be refinished once, twice if it's 5mm thick.  

The LVP we're getting has a 20mm thick wear layer.  And it's not as expensive as a good quality engineered or true hardwood. 

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when you are cutting it the "sawdust" is weird. Do it outside. It is statically charged and sticks to all kinds of things. Can be a bear to try and sweep up. Can act like those little Styrofoam balls. I also think the vinyl has a warmer feel that a true laminate and it isn't as slippery.  

[mowin]

  On 7/31/2019 at 1:11 PM, Culvercreek hunt club said:

when you are cutting it the "sawdust" is weird. Do it outside. It is statically charged and sticks to all kinds of things. Can be a bear to try and sweep up. Can act like those little Styrofoam balls. I also think the vinyl has a warmer feel that a true laminate and it isn't as slippery.  

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Thanks for the tip. 

I was told you can score it with a razor knife and snap it???  

Obviously any cuts length wise or notches will be done with a saw.