Bow Tuning Guide

[The_Real_TCIII]

It should be clamped or tied in just BELOW the bottom of the grip.  It should also not have any tension until the last inch of your draw and be fully raised when you hit full draw.  Much easer to install correctly with a draw board.  If you are around Rochester, happy to tie it in for you.

Thank you I appreciate it but I have all the tools, just hoping I may have left mine a smidge short on my Answer. Ive never really loved this bow because it has very little valley and wants to rip out of my hand. Im going to tinker with the rest cord and hopefully fix it. 

[dbHunterNY]

Thank you I appreciate it but I have all the tools, just hoping I may have left mine a smidge short on my Answer. Ive never really loved this bow because it has very little valley and wants to rip out of my hand. Im going to tinker with the rest cord and hopefully fix it. 

 

if you truly know what you're doing you can help that short valley slightly.  you can lengthen the valley some by adding twist to cables (will make the AtA length slightly shorter) and moving the draw stops out slightly.  letoff is also effected though.  they go hand in hand.  I always right down all specs at the start and twists as I go.  that way I can get it back to where it was if I don't like the results of my tinkering.

[dbHunterNY]

the bow wanting to take off is more what it is.  don't think there's much you can do about that.

[The_Real_TCIII]

Draw stops are all the way out

[mlammerhirt]

Thank you I appreciate it but I have all the tools, just hoping I may have left mine a smidge short on my Answer. Ive never really loved this bow because it has very little valley and wants to rip out of my hand. Im going to tinker with the rest cord and hopefully fix it.

I shoot an Answer as well, mine has a monster valley...I switched from an Athens ibex because of the lack of valley, that was a ticking time bomb ready to blow.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[The_Real_TCIII]

I shoot an Answer as well, mine has a monster valley...I switched from an Athens ibex because of the lack of valley, that was a ticking time bomb ready to blow.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Time to tear mine down.

[mlammerhirt]

I agree...that is the main draw of an Elite bow....with their valley you can hold full draw all day.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Edited January 27, 2016 by mlammerhirt

[The_Real_TCIII]

With my Pulse I can put the string behind my ear at full draw. Well almost lol

[The_Real_TCIII]

Ok my QAD comes up with about 5" of draw left, my understanding is I want that closer to 2" or less. So the question is: lengthen the cord, or move it up the cable? Right now at rest its tied in about mid way down the grip

[moog5050]

Ok my QAD comes up with about 5" of draw left, my understanding is I want that closer to 2" or less. So the question is: lengthen the cord, or move it up the cable? Right now at rest its tied in about mid way down the grip

 

This is likely why your valley is not where it should be.  Lengthen the chord and tie it further down the cable.  I tie mine directly into the cable (serve above the where the chord is inserted in the cable) and simply set in the split cable then draw the bow on the board until it hits full draw, pull on the chord until arm is fully erect and then let down the bow.  Mark that spot on the chord, pull it further through the cable and cut/melt at the marked point.  That will stop it where you need it.  That will ensure that the arm is coming up at the last possible moment, but still being fully raised.  You will find your valley again.

[The_Real_TCIII]

This is likely why your valley is not where it should be.  Lengthen the chord and tie it further down the cable.  I tie mine directly into the cable (serve above the where the chord is inserted in the cable) and simply set in the split cable then draw the bow on the board until it hits full draw, pull on the chord until arm is fully erect and then let down the bow.  Mark that spot on the chord, pull it further through the cable and cut/melt at the marked point.  That will stop it where you need it.  That will ensure that the arm is coming up at the last possible moment, but still being fully raised.  You will find your valley again.

 

Ive got to replace the cord and i will do this, thank you. Timing on the bow appears to be perfect so hopefully this will take care of it

[shawnhu]

Ok my QAD comes up with about 5" of draw left, my understanding is I want that closer to 2" or less. So the question is: lengthen the cord, or move it up the cable? Right now at rest its tied in about mid way down the grip

The timing cord should be clamped/served below the bottom of the grip, and rest.

The prongs on the rest should come to full upright position about 1" before full draw. So if you're a 28" DL, it should be full upright around 27" of draw.

These are installation instructions from QAD. I'm adjusted a little different than factory.

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[Rebel Darling]

Being that this was my first year bow hunting, I'd like to bring my bow to a shop for experienced hands to tune while I learn more about the mechanics and develop confidence with the mechanisms.

 

What should I expect to spend, and are there different levels of bow tuning that I should be aware of?

 

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated...

Edited February 16, 2016 by RebelDarling

[shawnhu]

Being that this was my first year bow hunting, I'd like to bring my bow to a shop for experienced hands to tune while I learn more about the mechanics and develop confidence with the mechanisms.

What should I expect to spend, and are there different levels of bow tuning that I should be aware of?

Any help/suggestions are greatly appreciated...

I think it's more important where to take it vs how much you spend on the services. I've learned to trust only the very best with my bow and haven't thought of cost if I needed those services done by trusted smiths. Otherwise, I'll learn to do it myself.

Generally bow tuning is $15.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

[Rebel Darling]

I think it's more important where to take it vs how much you spend on the services. I've learned to trust only the very best with my bow and haven't thought of cost if I needed those services done by trusted smiths. Otherwise, I'll learn to do it myself.

Generally bow tuning is $15.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

 

Solid advice on the cost / quality ratio.  The $15 baseline helps when comparing costs of local shops with reviews of their services; it's an easy place for me to start the research.  Thank you.

[shawnhu]

Solid advice on the cost / quality ratio. The $15 baseline helps when comparing costs of local shops with reviews of their services; it's an easy place for me to start the research. Thank you.

Good luck on your search, and ask questions here if you ever want to start tuning on your own.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

[dbHunterNY]

be sure to ask what they do for each price.  some shops will "tune" your bow but it's more or less setting everything with eyeballs and levels.  not actually shooting it through paper with your arrows at various distances (say 5, 15, and 30 feet).  going to a shop and shooting with those that shoot better than you will help.  Most people who are really good are willing to help, if someone has ego driven "just because" answers just say thanks and don't ask them again... shops included.

[The_Real_TCIII]

Where are you?

[Rebel Darling]

Where are you?

 

Real - Assuming your question was directed at me:

 

I'm in Sand Lake, Rensselaer County, about 30 minutes east of Albany.

[dbHunterNY]

Real - Assuming your question was directed at me:

 

I'm in Sand Lake, Rensselaer County, about 30 minutes east of Albany.

 

the only shops I know of around you and have experience with are Havoc Archery in Albany, Flying Arrow Sports in East Greenbush, and Marty's Sporting Goods in Bennington VT.

 

I know of a guy that's in Sandgate VT that's really good.  Also if you get in a bind I'm not far from you up above Troy.

Edited February 17, 2016 by dbHunterNY

[Doewhacker]

Real - Assuming your question was directed at me:

I'm in Sand Lake, Rensselaer County, about 30 minutes east of Albany.

Add to the list of shops, Bowhunters plus in Amsterdam. They also have indoor 3D and a standard indoor range.

[dbHunterNY]

Add to the list of shops, Bowhunters plus in Amsterdam. They also have indoor 3D and a standard indoor range.

 

they're out there a little further but good as far as i know.  I don't really go there because it's not as close.  i have been and gotten stuff from them in the past.

[moog5050]

I think it's more important where to take it vs how much you spend on the services. I've learned to trust only the very best with my bow and haven't thought of cost if I needed those services done by trusted smiths. Otherwise, I'll learn to do it myself.

Generally bow tuning is $15.

X-Calibur Lighting Systems

http://facebook.com/XCaliburLightingSystems

 

What is involved in a $15 tune?  Can't be much more than syncing cams and setting centershot on the rest of some suggested factory setting 3/4" or 7/8" etc. with arrow level to berger hole.  Real arrow tuning takes time, at least more than $15 worth of time.

[dbHunterNY]

probably cams in time, bow in spec more or less, squaring arrow with the string and centered through berger hole, and then center shot eyeballed.  $40 is more like a full tune as in that plus paper tuning.  most shops don't do walk back tuning much unless they've got the room for more distance, which most don't.  if it's a new bow that's it.. old bows they might charge maybe $10-20 more to strip it and lube axles and pockets.  depends on the shop and how much business you've previously given them too.

[Doewhacker]

This is likely why your valley is not where it should be. Lengthen the chord and tie it further down the cable. I tie mine directly into the cable (serve above the where the chord is inserted in the cable) and simply set in the split cable then draw the bow on the board until it hits full draw, pull on the chord until arm is fully erect and then let down the bow. Mark that spot on the chord, pull it further through the cable and cut/melt at the marked point. That will stop it where you need it. That will ensure that the arm is coming up at the last possible moment, but still being fully raised. You will find your valley again.

I installed a Rip Cord Ace on my bow last week and the directions had me follow this method and I found it easy. I don't have a draw board but it came out perfect. Remarkably I eyeballed it to perfection and didn't have to adjust the rest after paper tuning.

I served mine in after I dropped the mini nut for the football clamp and couldn't find it in the garage, lol.