jjb4900
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Posts posted by jjb4900
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the person behind the weapon probably plays as much of a role, if not more, into successfully defending yourself than the weapon does.........
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It has nothing to do with training, trust me. When your choices are killing the person in front of you or never seeing your wife and children again, you'd be surprised how calm you are.
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I doubt anyone would be calm while going through something like that, but since you said "trust me", I assume you're talking from experience...
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a shotgun loaded with buckshot would probably be the best choice for most...........I doubt the average person has the training or nerves to calmly shoot another person, and the biggest pattern is probably best.
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Culvercreek,
I have no idea but i believe thats what they all do.
Anyone else know?
you sure that the added 1 3/4 isn't for arrow length?
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can animals even be held at fault for their actions?
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I think the guy is an absolute idiot for making that video public.........I assume that if it was taken out of season and without a license there will be some type of investigation, really can't tweak your story when you'rs dumb enough to put the entire encounter out for the world to see.
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JJB check your info. Based on a 6 second search on google, the tribute does have a draw stop.
my mistake, I mistakenly typed in string stop instead of draw stop.
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as much as the logic behind makes complete and total sense, let me ask you this...........its the middle of the night and someone has just broken into your home where your wife (or husband for you ladies on here) and your KIDS are sleeping. They are there to do GOD ONLY KNOWS WHAT to you and your family. After you call 9-1-1, you decide to engage the "alledged" criminal only to find that they have a knife or something else that they intend to hurt you or your family with. WHat do you want to have in your hand?? A tiny little 22 that MAY or MAY NOT stop them from hurting someone in the house or somethign like a larger caliber handgun with a Glaser safety slug or a shotgun with a turkey load of #4's? You know very well that the later two of 3 will stop them in their tracks neutralizing the threat so why grab a 22?
Im sorry but when it comes to the safety of my family, I will choose the 12ga Ithaca Single Sot Model 66 loaded with a 3" load everytime
JUST MY 2cents
if you're concerned about a .22 being inefficient, why would you then choose a single shot? unless you're certain there will always be just one unarmed assailant.......
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Are you serious? Nobody will notice? Ohio's xbow take is HALF OF ALL FREAKING DEER SHOT DURING THE BOW SEASON. I believe its actually more than half in the most recent seasons. PA's numbers are reaching the same proportion.
People will notice. Fact.
is it because more hunters put down their compound or recurve and picked up a crossbow, or because that many more people entered the sport? If 50% of NY archers drop their old bows and grab a crossbow it will have the same effect....which would just be a number on a sheet of paper and not more numbers actually hunting.
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I've seen a lot of livestock put down with a .22......although it was all point blank and had to be put in the right spot, it was nothing less than devastating
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The Hoyt Tribute is another modern bow without stops, it's an adult bow designed for finger shooters..........so they're out there, and I'm sure there's more.
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Doc
A modern compound can and will lock up if drawn without the stops. Ask me how I know. I don't need the physics lessons. I have torn down and reassembled many bows, just none that didnt have draw or cable stops and rest assured, the op will buy a bow that has stops. Identify one modern compound bow sold today that doesn't have stops. I challenge you to find one.
there's a few entry level youth bows that don't have them........Matthews Genesis is one in particular that comes to mind........and of course if you remove a part off a bow that it's supposed to have it's gonna be a problem. kinda like taking the brakes off your car, would you be shocked when it didn't stop?
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I didn't hunt them either, but I will say I saw quite a few in 4W and 4R.....enough where it would have been worthwhile to do so.
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Interesting points, thanks. However, I expect everything in life to go up in price every year anyway, so I'm not sure I will ever notice the difference. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The problem is, because of your success and good salary, you will be taxed more to pick up the slack for others......kinda sad when those who are successful have to be punished for being such..if the cost of living goes up that's fine, I'm willing to pay my share, but to have to foot the bill for others is unacceptable.
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Yeah because WingNut is paying the other half of your premium.... there in lies the problem.
exactly......enough said. But then again some have no problem with others picking up their tab.
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and to jump back to the original poster who was asking about buying a used bow, if he was to pick up an older bow from a less than knowledgeable person, that was supposed to be shot at a 29" draw length and he needs a 30" draw length, he could easily get something that may be wrong for him......add to that string stretch and a bow that can be pulled a little ways past what it's set at and he could think he's getting a bow that fits him when he's really not.
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I wasn't trying to start a new argument. Just curious. So, JJB - on that old PSE, if you had someone draw the bow who had a 3" longer draw than you, would the bow lock up? Surprises me that any manufacturer would design a bow that could be locked up by simply pulling it too far. Not arguing its not true because I simply have no idea. I have done it while tuning after removing draw stops and forgetting to reinstall them before drawing and there is a certain pucker factor in getting that locked bow back to the press before it explodes (or so you think). lol
I don't think you could get that much more of a draw out of it and at that point you would probably have to excert a noticeable more amount of strength to get it that far back ....but easily an inch without noticeable problems, not the way it's meant to be shot, but on older style bows, one could easily be slightly under or overdrawing their bow and that can be easily done with the addition of an accessory that should warrant an anchor point change, and if someone isn't aware that some type of change is necessary they're either not getting the max out of the bow or over stressing it.........luckily draw stops have eliminated a lot of that.
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I guess I just don't get that, because if there is an inch of play beyond the 29" how was it set up properly?
simple, the bow doesn't have stops........it's supposed to be shot at a 29" draw, the extra draw must be gained by rolling the cams past where they should stop or by flexing the limbs past where they should stop. It's obviously not proper, but that particular bow has the ability for someone to slightly overdraw it.....I'm assuming your bow has stops, if they were removed, I bet you would be able to draw the bow past where it is intended to stop.
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another reason to either have the knowledge to set your bow up properly or find someone to help you......how many add a D-Loop, change releases or make any other changes and don't adjust to it?
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So, how would DL be set then, if the bow never stops drawing except for the anchor point...in theory the draw length wouldn't need setting, no?
DL was set by having your bow set up properly for you, I have a pretty old PSE that is set for 29" and that's how it should be shot, however it easily has another inch or so of play where it can be drawn back farther because it has no stops.....not sure if that is bad for the bow or not, but that's how many older bows work....I now have a new Hoyt with the stops and that can't be done.
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Anchor point has nothing to do with the draw cycle stopping. If that was the case, hunters and archers would be locking up their bows and/or derailing left and right. There has to be a mechanism on the bow that prevents the bow from being drawn back of some sort on a compound bow. At some point the cams are supposed to stop rolling.
what stopped that from happening on older type bows without stops, was having your bow set up properly, as long as your draw length was set properly it's not a problem...if you had a bow with too short a draw length it could be overdrawn, but that's pretty much a problem of the past.....anchor point has something to do with draw cycle stopping because that's where the shooter stops drawing, I'm sure there are some with older type bows without stops who are not drawing the bow back properly.
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I'm going to answer this one. The anchor point.
X-Calibur Lighting Systems
I have to agree.....can't see anyone arguing that one.
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Ok, so I've taken deer with shotgun, rifle, pistol, and muzzleloader. Wife gave me the go-ahead to buy a bow with our taxes and complete the cycle. I've never shot a bow before, but there was a time that I'd never shot a gun before too, so I know I can do it if I put in the time to do it right.
I'm going to a couple bow shops this week to see if they have any used bows at decent prices. What are some things to look for and to stay away from?
as you just found out, the most important thing to stay away from is advice from the internet...........
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What's obamacare? Nothing changed for me (that I know of) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
it's Obama's way of stealing from the rich to give to the poor...much like the way he taxes us.
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Interesting Home Defense Topic
in General Chit Chat
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true, but, I would think if you were giving advice to a group of people and assuming they were just buying a gun for home protection and they had no intention of practicing much, I would say shotgun, 12 or 20 won't make much difference............obviously on a board like this the answers are coming from people we assume can handle a pretty broad range of guns, so the answers will vary and probably won't be a wrong answer to be found.