jjb4900

good point, just use mine around the house and on a few occasions at the cabin.....

so you're saying you drowned the poor little guy?

I'll confess to buying the cheaper ones, never spent over $100.00.........last one was a Homelite and currently have a Ryobi, Homelite lasted about 6 years and Ryobi is probably close to that age right now. They both worked well for the price.

get a set of hearing protectors to go with whichever on you choose.

I've always wondered if the eggs are already in the food when we buy it or if they find the way in somehow after we buy open it............for the life of me I can't figure out how they get into a sealed container or bag.

I would pretty much try anything within reason if prepared properly by someone else.........now if I had to skin, gut and clean the Coyote myself and deal with how disgusting the smells of all that might be, I would probably pass. But, serve it to me cooked properly on a plate all cleaned up nice and I would probably try it, same goes for a lot of animals.

here's an idea of what it tastes like.

you'll never be %100 sure until it's to late in my opinion.....buy the cheap ones for the plinking and the real ones for the deer. Like I also said, you'll probably never have any issue shooting anything with them as long as you make sure the blades are sharpened. I also think 8 out of 10 broadhead failures are operator error and everyone needs to blame something so that's where it usually falls...heck, with the size of some mechancals today, even if they don't open, if you put them where they belong it should result in a dead deer...not that it's good, but you get the point.

wow, very nice...and pretty impressive too.

quite honestly, I don't care what brand of manufacture the imitation broadhead is, if they're factory seconds, or put together cheaper or material of a lesser quality, I'm not going to risk it.....you could very well get 11 good ones in a pack, but the 12th one might be a dud, and that may be the one that costs you a deer, not worth saving $20.00 in my opinion...........but chances are you'll never have a problem with them if you go that route, just not something I would do.

I agree, I won't even reuse quality broadheads.

and I always thought that's what my wife's toothbrush was for...

on you or her?

and it comes with a "finger brush"......fantastic.

the base is a solid resin/limestone pan about 150-200 lbs.....it has a flat base no ribbing underneath so it basically will sit almost flat on the floor except for a thin layer of structolite (recommended by the manufacturer)....

yeah, the more I think about it I think I'm gonna pop up the floor and maybe add 2x6's it already has 2x8's sisterd to the old one which would have to be ripped out.....I was just hoping for a easier way.

when I told the tile guy about the slope he said don't worry about it he's going to level the room with mud anyway......oh, and it actually has to come up to meet the floor at the door.

it slopes towards the shower door so my concern is the water won't drain and will pool along that edge of the shower...shower sits sideways in the room. I'm assuming the tiler will have to level the rest of the room as well and that should bring the tile up to the same height as the shower pan, right?

door side.....it's new 3/4" plywood on top of 2x8's screwed down more than enough, the area is about 3'x4' that the pan sits on.....I'm going to let the tile guy worry about the rest of the room....it sits in a nook, so will only really have access to the front when i go to set it. The back wall is actually good, it's gotta be raised towards the door.

that's what I was thinking, box out the area where the base will sit and fill it in till level and set the base on that....I think it's easier and possibly a better option then playing around with shims, Like I said, this thing is heavy and once you put it down its tough to slide around and play with, and it has a flat bottom so no real voids to fill with mortar to stiffen it up.

that's my other thought, get shims in place and then put down the mortar and squish it down to the shims.....I was just thinking leveling the whole area in one shot would give a nice flat area with no messing around

ok, my bathroom floor is out of level 1/2" - 3/4" of an inch from front to back.....need to set the shower base soon before the tile guy comes. I've been wracking my brain to figure out the best way.....this thing is very heavy, probably close 150 pounds and it has a flat bottom. I'm thinking of boxing out the square where it's going to sit and use self leveling cement and sit it on that when it's done, I know the best is probably to set in mortar or whatever and wiggle and move it till it's level, but being it's so heavy and not much room I think that would be a nightmare............any thoughts?

ugh...me too, waiting on a shower base, the plumber and then the tile guy.....thank God for two bathrooms.

lowest interest rate! if home equity loans are a tax benefit I would go that route as well, they usually offer low interest rates too.....

I used Rage for the first time last year on two deer, I was quite pleased with them and will use them again.....I think any broadhead will get some bad reviews somewhere along the line. The Hypodermic +P is supposed to have a stronger blade retention collar so I will get them this year.............as for buying cheap knockoffs?, no thanks, I'll spend the extra $20.00 for the real ones and that would go for pretty much any product I buy, but especially not a mechanical broadhead from China. I might buy them just to see how they're constructed in comparison to the real ones, maybe see the blade sharpness, thickness and all that other important stuff, you gotta figure they scrimped somewhere along the line.