moog5050

I would but can't afford it. Have to settle for our puny free range deer. oh the burden!

Scary - I live east of Rochester, but hunt S and SW. That should be enough for you to close the deal. Go get em Biz. Don't use our treestands though Biz. I wouldn't want you to feel guilty about cheating.

And if you want to know the pattern and location of our biggest buck, just ask. I can't keep a secret.

Not what you told Joel. Nor do the many 4lb plus large mouth he caught since that advice agree. lol

most bows gain 2-3lbs per inch after 28" but it does depend on the bow. Not sure I would hunt with a recurve less than 40lbs and minimally, I would keep shots close with a lower poundage recurve or longbow (which are generally slower than recurves).

Culver nailed it. Imagine the door frame in the background being the riser. Its not perfectly vertical but the bow should be ( I would learn to should without canting the bow to start). Pressure is on the base of the thumb at the meaty part of the pad of the hand.

Good save!

try this. It doesn't require that you twist your wrist to keep the elbow out Knuckles at 45 degrees Tuck pinky and ring finger if needed Very loose hold on bow. Pressure against base of thumb

If I understand the question correctly, the lower bow arm moves across the body perhaps at a slightly inclined angle if flexed (like pointing your thumb into your own chest). If it's going towards the sky when flexed, your elbow is facing down bringing the forearm into the string path.

You should be very optimistic about the upcoming season! And that's the bad property. Lol.

There is also a book called shooting the stickbow by Anthony camerrata (sp?) that is good. From form to tuning discusses it all. The author posts frequently in the AT trad forum. Joel Turner and Arne Moe also have great videos on you tube.

The change in nock height is usually marginal. Don't worry about it. I would definitely recommend learning to shoot with a tab from the start. I started with a glove and it was painful making the switch, but I did and it was well worth it. Much cleaner release. I use the safari tuff tab from Rod Jenkins. They last forever and are well made. Be sure to trim it or you will get some slap from the tab. Trim slow though.

with a recommended 7.5-8.5" BH, I would twist the string to bring the BH just a bit over 8" and see if you still have the slap. It will cause the arrows to move a bit more right (act weaker) when shooting but without seeing how they fly now, that's not necessarily a bad thing. On the nock, even without a square, you can eyeball it. nock an arrow and put it on the rest, find the spot where it looks to be 90 degrees to the string at rest and then put the nock 1/4" above it. It should get you in the ball park which is all you need when starting out.

Great JOB! Awesome that you are shooting again. All that PT is paying off. Let that shoulder rest up some before shooting again. Best part is that you know you are already where you need to be to kill deer. I really really look forward to seeing that photo of you and Zac standing with your first deer of the season (or for Zac, first deer period!). And please don't thank me, you are the one doing all the hard work! I am merely a cheerleader (and an ugly one at that)!

If you are going to stick it in a bag, any quiver that will secure the arrows and cover the BHs should work.

Yikes! Yep, big back stop or a field behind is nice when you start for sure. Left field, in terms of string slap, it might be that your brace height is too low. I was just setting my buddy up this weekend with a new bow and I never hit my forearm on my bow (it only has a 6.75" BH), on his with an 8" BH, I was hitting it every time. We moved it up to 8.5" and the problem went away for both of us. Bow seemed to tune well there too. Also, try curling your pinky and ring finger in so that they sit outside of the grip. It puts you hand in that 45 degree position you want which forces your forearm out of the way. With a recurve, you should be able to avoid string slap. With a hill style long bow, a forearm guard may be required. 600s should be good for a 30lb bow, assuming you don't draw to 32". You may need a bit more point weight. Find a repeatable anchor that puts the arrow nock under your eye, then you can look down the arrow for your left to right aiming. I use index finger on the upper tooth between my front teeth and canine. Also, stay close for a while until you are shooting tight groups and then move back 5 yds at a time, only moving when you have consistent tight groups. Just some suggestions based on my journey with a barebow recurve. Enjoy.

Ah, thought it might have been you since you live so close.

If you want a full back seat, get a crew cab and that does mean back doors. Otherwise the supercab has a full back seat, just a lot less leg room.

Do you have black rims on that truck? I think I saw you driving on plank rd over the weekend.

Wide is an understatement and based on his body he does look like he might only be a 3 year old. Impressive. Some great genes there. Good luck fletch. I hope you have a big wall for him.

Its a Matthews - you don't need a quiver, just a single arrow nocked.

Beauty!

He may die from exhaustion carrying that rack around.

Less time to accumulate ticks though. And I know you love mounting bucks with lots of ticks.

I think everyone is on the sane page. If you have bucks patterned near opener, it's worth a shot. If not, seeking phase is when you will catch more random bucks. That's when sitting downwind of doe bedding can be great. Unfortunately in my limited years hunting, I have yet to have any with a solid early season pattern.