sailinghudson25

Atv tires make decent rollers, just do it in 2wd

Chain harrow is different than a chain link fence drag. You could make great.plots of cereal grains or clovers with that alone. Perfect for rocky places too. Certain implements bring up rocks, tons of them. I've done great with a single row disc, a garden tractor, a good weedwackers. Look up plotspike forage feast. Great little mix. After seeding and covering it up, just top dress with a little bit of clover. Red if your going to retill, or ladino to leave it alone for a few years

Got some pics of where you're planting. Your brute force 750, does it go 2-3 mph in 1st with the clutch fully in? Or does the semi auto clutch slip to that speed. My 2017 honda trx420 slips into first at 4mph and is steady engaged at 6-7mph. This is a basic atv and not a sport one. I could see my atv having issues with that tine rake you posted. That needs some power to push, unless you do a few passes deeper each time. A deep till is desireable, but I have made great wheat, oat, and clover plots with 1 to 2 inches of till. A chain harrow with mean teeth might be ok too. They're under 200. If your ph is really off, then you need a deeper till.

That'll work. What kind of soil do you got? Rocks? Roots? What's been there last few years. What are you growing? Some stuff only needs 2 or 3 inches to be ok. Stuff like big turnips or corn need up to 6 inches.

Remove as much fat as possible. Marinate them in brine, milk, or soda. Older squirrels appreciate slow cooking recipes. Put in a dutch oven and cook them on low in some soup broth. Discard the broth, then use the squirrel in a recipe. Squirrels are legally trapped by exterminators. My guess is a small body gripping trap in a face of a wooden box. Cover the box with some leaves. Use some peanut butter as a lure. Put the trap out during the day to avoid skunks. Or make the front face of the box small enough for squirrels to only enter. I hunt them with a 20ga shotgun, or a .36 cal flintlock. Call the DEC. If you can prove they're giving you problems, they'd probably issue a special permit if you have a trapping license. Like damage to your attic or crop damage.

I could see some truth to what they say. I drive by a spot on Rt 23 in greene county. All mowed down, then an area was fenced. The red cedars are twice as big. And this is not their prefered browse either. Wonder what PETA will say when an invasive species is intentionally released and then attacks some hikers in the area. Likely only a matter of time a NJ relocated troublemaker bear attacks someone up in the catskills.

Turkeyfeathers, A few things. Frequent watering reduces yeild. It makes them root poorly and not a deeper root. Also, when I do water. I do not use a water hose. The cold 50 deg F water shocks the root system, again reducing yield. I fill the water up in a tub and let it heat up. My aunt used to fill tons of 1 gallon milk jugs and let them sit all over the garden. Mulch helps a ton too with temperature and moisture retention. Also, that mulch improves the soil after it's tilled in. A winter crop helps in gardens too. I mentioned magnesium content in my above post. A bit of epsom slat where you plant tomatoes goes a long way. Hunters and basic gardeners think N-P-K. There's alot of other things plants need, even if in minute amounts. Like boron for clover, we are talking needing a 1lb an acre a year. But, the results give the answer..... Speaking of minerals other than the big ones. I prefer ash over lime. IT adds alot of those trace minerals plants and animals need. Do half the plants one way, then do the other differently. My friend was shocked when he water one with cold and water one with warm.

I am low on hauling capacity. And I put one of my plots in a remote location. I buy a few bags at a time. Or, I bring up a few bags to my remote spot a few hours away. I put 3 or 4 bags in a garbage bag and leave it in the corner or the woods. Mice get in sometimes, but don't make a real mess out of it. Do not discredit powdered lime. If you need alot of ph increase, it can save money. Many a farmer or plotter has bought a pickup load and hand shoveled it out. I look at magnesium content when I buy. I do like pelletized for my remote places. I also builds plots for friends. I do have them buy a bag or two of pelletized to help spread clover seed or to mix up with borax to help clovers get some boron they need greatly. I do the same with fertilizer and seeds. I like different things in different areas. Dutch white clover for tree planting sites, hairy vetch for poor sandy soils, red clover for fast growth to choke out weeds in new plot sites. Or some winter rye for green manure in a poor soil site. The local place that sells by the lb at reasonable rates is 1.5 hours away from me.

Anybody here in a hunt club up there. I'm in one up in the stillwater reservoir. We're bordering state land and we're next to a parking area for snowmobiler's now too. Anyone got good or bad stories to tell. Anything you guys did over the years to make it btter to hunt. Change in tactics, etc...

There are 2 types of adirondacks..... Open forested areas... something medium range like your 280, 270, or 30-06 wil do. Open scopes are nice, but some power in lower light to make sure your bullet is not going to skip on a branch.... I bring a remington ADL in 30-06 with 180gr cor-lokt heads. I got the a burris fullfield II in 3-9x40. If the hunt is more of a hike, I bring a glenfiled model 30 with lyman peep sight. I like the 150gr cor-lokt heads in my reloads. However, most of the time I'm hunting swamp edges and regrowth spots in my club's leased paper company land. I am getting close to see them and they may see me and be spooked. I want some horsepower incase a shot get a bit sloppy. I got a browning BLR in 450 marlin with a 1.25-4.5x32 bushnell elite 3200 scope. I'd hunt in those open spots with these too if the hunt takes me there. If the hunt is more of a scout mission, or I am checking cameras or have the gun on the ATV rack, the glenfield 30 is coming with me. Without a scope, it feels like I'm fielding a 22. Alot of calibers will work.. The real trick is scope tuning. Get that scope to fit you like a glove. You may need to adjust the hieght of the rings, or adjust the scope forward or back. I put the scope on loose and spend 15 minutes playing with it. High power, low power, offhand, kneeling, bench, sitting in a small chair point down like in a treestand. That extra second you gain finding the recticle and seeing through it well can make all the difference out there. You may get a second for a shot. A well adjusted scope mount will give you 2 seconds........

The planter has various discs. You need the right disc that not only has the right spacing, but accepts the right size of seed. I think your privacy row should be wider like 12-15 feet. OR find a not so tall variety. Preferably both. Sorghum is grown as a feed crop, so you're not wasting valuable food plot space. Big plants need big roots, what do you have to till with? How good is the soil? Deer are happy with 4 feet tall cover, so don't feed obligated to get a monster variety. As said before, if sorghum doesn't need a deep seeding, just mix it up with enough pelletized lime to do the area in 3 passes. The occasional seed in the mixed up lime will spread it pretty evenly. Think of a nursery crop to grow with this. Especially if you think weeds will have a field day there. It's always good to till and lime, then till a few days later. If I;m doing this in the summer, I deep till 1st, then or sratch lightly once a week for 2 weeks. This brings up seeds, getting them started, then the till kills them. Seed can be dormant for many many years in deeper soils. I've gooten easily 95% weed free in a weedy mess with this method. Even more important in the spring because thats when the weed seeds awake and have plenty of moitsure to germinate well.

So, the lunchable lawn is weedy, perhaps intentionally weedy. I was thinking of adding dandelion. I noticed a few food plot seeds had various lettuce seeds in it. Romain and stuff like arugula. I had seen a no-till mix with plantain. I have that stuff in my yard, but the deer never touch it. It could be too mature for their liking though. The base of the lunchable lawn has to be some sort of grass. Any advice here. I have planted throw-n-grow ryegrass. The deer were not in love with it, but ate the seedy heads. However, the lunchable lawn will be mowed too frequently for this. Orchardgrass perhaps? It sounds like I'm just going to lime it up to 6.5 and apply like it's going on the the 1st 2 inches. I'll scratch it with the spring harrows a touch, and then add in dutch white clover, some fertilizier, and 4lbs an acre of borax soap. Not sure if dutch white needs it much or not, like ladino and red clover. This will be in 2 week or so. I may reseed properly with some more clover and grass, or just see how this stuff grows. This is .25 acre corner I am experimenting with. Right next to it is a .25 acre food plot I tilled up with a rototiller and put 10 bags of lime and 3lbs of borax in it. I will be frost seeding dutch white clover around the edges in preparation of transplanting a row of red osier dogwood, then a row of prairie willow, then a row of arborvitae, and then chestnut trees in the corners, and 2 rows of chestnut trees on either side of the lawn. One row will be next to exisitng 100 year old apple trees. This winter was too wierd to prune these old girls which hasn't been doen in many many years, but I limed them and fertilized in the fall. I also got a .13 acre food plot on a not so good soil spot. Put 5 bags of lime, peddington grass starter fertilizer, a bit or borax, and a combination of red, arrowleaf, and ladino clover, with a bit of chicory in it too. Planted that 2 weeks ago. When they come it, it'll get a few more red cedars to finish up a privacy row, 2 rows of dogwood to the side facing the yard of the house, and on the shorter face I need to cover up arborvitae. The lunchable lawn is getting a ton of shrubs this year. About 150 dogwood and willows, 75 arborvitae, 20 hazelnut trees. Ontop of all that, I'm scratching up patches of 6 acres worth of lawn and ading 5lb worth of dutch white clover seed.

I'm putting in 2 formal food plots with plenty of edible brush transplants. However, I still got tons of land on this 8 acre property. I am looking to do 3 things..... -I'm scratching up areas of the lawn, dressing up with lime and fertilizer, and putting some dutch white clover down. The 1st thing I'd like to do is reseed a 1/2 acre at a time to something the deer would like better. I could plant a small grain crop with the clovered up lawn, then let it drift to lawn. This is the backyard area that can be mown a touch taller or less often. There is some ATV traffic here, but the kids don't ride too often. There are 2 huge brush piles, so they'll be some good spots. The 2nd thing is perennial flowbed and under a few shady trees. Some people put crown vetch down. Is there a decorative plant I can grow like a flowerbed, but the deer enjoy. I hunt in PA, I believe the oaks have wintergreen under them. Just not sure if it's that or japanese barberry.

what needs to be done there? what ya want to plant? how big Ive done several plots with a chainsaw, small towable discs like brinley, and a 2wd lawn tractor with agressive tires.

Good little seeder. I own one. I do green beans with it. I have done a bit of corn, for eating. I could see sorghum being planted via boradcasting. Mix it in with lime. And then do 3 passes to evenly spead it where you want it. Doesnt need to be perfect.

What climbing beans would you grow with that sorghum? Tempted to give that a shot, until my red dogwood starts making cover.

I tilled, limed, fertilized, seeded, and rolled down a 50/50 mix of plotspike clover blend, and agway's ladino clover on a small 1/8 acre plot and a 50 yard by 5 yard tree planting site. I also did that to some repair spots in the backyard too with some italian rye dressed on top. Did that last week close to the hudson river in columbia county. Time will tell. Don't forget to post some pictures in a month or two how theyre doing.

They do not post a success rate. You are the success rate. IF you plant it right in the right area and the proper way. I've seen 2 or 3 die out of 100 planted. IF the critters get into it, or you planted it wrong, or you whack a couple when moving, then it goes down. Willows and dogwood. They're easy. The willow like water, so you need to get them down enough. White cedar or arborvitae, they're trickier. They need to be planted the right depth, they need to not be choked out by weeds, they could use a fertilizer tablet, or agriform tablet as its called. The animals will try to kill them. Rabbits munch on the trunk of arborvitae, so I got to cover them somehow. The same goes with fruit trees Dogwood and willow no worries. IF you look around locally, you can find wilows to harvest. Now is the time before the plant wakes up. I ordered, praire willow, american chesnut, white cedar, red stemmed dogwood, and red cedar. The red cedar is to fill in open spots in a privacy stand. The chestnut is from corner trees in a open area foodplot. This is for the buck to have hanging branches over scrapes. I'm putting then in corners of the property as well as the food plot. The praire willow is an experiment in a remote area I hunt where little grows. I have tons of space to plant these. I'm trying these willows, some dogwood, and some pussy willow someone is harvesting for me. I got a .3 and .1 acre plot Thats is a large yard. I'm making a surround for it with these plants, and making 50 yard travel corridors to connect active trails coming from the brushed up old farm fields in the back where I can;t hunt. I'm trying to fool the deer their daylight secure place is a bit closer than it was........ I don't mind shooting the dumb ones...... The Delaware county soil and water district has good info on planting instructions. go to their plant sale page, then scroll down to the bottom for link on planting and fertilizing. Also, you local county has their own plant sale, so they might have some goodies NYSDEC doesn't. Black berries, permissons, and plums are good. https://www.dcswcd.org/ I prepped my spots. I liightly tilled and limed the top 3 inches last week. In 3 weeks I will seed and roll in dutch white clover, but be a bit easy on the fertilizer and only use 6-24-24. Too much nitrogen will make the weeds perk their ears up. I am also mulching aroung these plantings. I got wood shaving and straw cleaned out from a goat pen. Old stuff sitting around. Old leaf clippings, grass clippings, or formal bulk mulch will be good. They say keep 2 or 3 inch circle clear, than much around that maybe 6 to 8 inch thick circle. I'm doing some of the dogwood and all the arborvitae like that. I am experimenting with 18 inch square cardboard cut outs as a way to keep moisture in and weeds out. One solid piece and another variety with some holes poked into it. See if that works. I can get all the cardboard I want from work. The dogwood and willow could be seeders... You plant them in the most ideal area in groups. Then in 2 or 3 years harvest the cutting to spread them around.

No-till overseed you can add an extra 40% or so seed due to decreased germination success. Typical is about 80 to 90 lbs and acre of oats. 8lbs of ladino clover roughly. These are stand alone amounts. But, they usually cut down the mixtures by 40% when you plant both together anyway. I'd say measure out a 50lb bag of oats Use half, then 2lbs of clover. IF you do the no till. Mow afterwards. The mulch keeps the soil surface cool and moist. Either way you go, roll the plot down when done. I use lawn tractor or the ATV and roll it in. Cultipackers are nice, but Just the tires have done fine for me. Ideally, i'd drag a log or very lightly disc the oats, then spread the clover on top. Then roll it with the tires. Clover is 1/8 to 1/4 inch seed soil depth, and oats, wheat, or rye is 1 inch. However, spring time has more moisture than august. So, this has a batter chance of growing. If the no-till approach will turn into a good summer tilling when you get the time, then skip the clover and put some more oats in

If you do not have time to till try this. Put some lime and fertilizer down, then some oats and clover. Then mow it as low as you can go. Do this in early april. Thats about .18 acre. I bag of garden fertilizer, 4 or 5 bags of lime. IF you have time to till. I'd only till down 3 or 4 inches, about 1/2 way on most tillers. IF you time is limited, this will keep garden rototillers from stalling. Also, you could be hitting a ton of rocks. Even if you can till down to 2 inches, you'd be good. Alot of folks say 1 or 2 tons per acre. That's under the general assumption you're mixing in the lime 6 to 8 inches in. Lime doesn't move down in the soil unles you put it there. So, if you only get a shallower till, then use less lime. 4 inch till maybe 1/2 as much, a 2 inch surface scratch, then you could use a quarter as much. I am going to try the overseed no till oats. It is actually a common move for farmers during crop rotations. It's in a 4 year old clover plot. I've been told oats die when you mow them. However, it's a great nursery crop, much like wheat, or italian winter rye. After doing a couple of food plots, you like to try new things. How are the plot edges? If they're not that good and open, I would be tempted to do the oats and clover overseed around the open perimeter areas. You can always mow and till in early may if you change your mind. Or leave it alone and have a fresh mini plot for early bow season.

Did you check out the NYSDEC nursery plant sale? They ship to most counties' soil and water district office around april 21st. I got 100 10" or so arborvitae, 100 red dogwood, 100 praire willow, and 25 red cedar for about $150. IT's enough to surround 2 1/4 acre food plots 2 rows thick. They got tons of other goodies. Soil and water districts also have their own plant sale. Some got nice extras the DEc doesn't like permissons, fruit trees, plum trees. Also, with most shrubs, plant some, then clip them in a few years to get 10 times as many. Their site explains each tree and shrub and have great tips on spacing and prep. I highly suggest you buy dutch white clover if your preparing ground around the tree or shrub. It grows slow, so you dont need to mow it often. Look up agriform tablets. Also, start looking for mulch. Keeping thos translant moist helps a ton. Having a means to water them during dry spells makes a huge difference. Plants go dormant dont wake up right away. Deer like seclusion to get comfort. I am plant this to break up a huge open area. I am making two corridors to get to the food plot too. A 10 ft wide hiking path between an exisitng hedge row with 2 rows of preffered edible shurbs on the other. Odd shapes and encouranging deer to walk a bit different than the prevailing winds. I have limited treestand sites due to few trees. I'll see if this will work.

I say no 3D target. I got a 3D deer and fox target, but I use them to show new shooters where to hit a deer and practicing from a treestand. Best target to heavily use is a standard one. I did buy spare inserts. Skunk 3D targets hold up well at 50 yards.................. The guy in charge of the range also sells plenty of arrows at his store.

I rototilled a 1/2 acre in a corner of a large yard in November and put 9 bags of lime down before tilling up. I just spring harrowed it today. I'll be planting 2 rows of red dogwood and an outside row of white cedar, maybe 2 rows of cedar. Think a small grain clover combo can be done right away without being too weedy? What do you advise on spring small grains? I usually do wheat, oats, red and ladino clover with a touch of turnips around labor day and discl 2 or 3 times once a week before doing so. Also, I got a 1/2 acre here n there I'd like to clover up. Little spots here n there.

I also maintain the local shrubs. Put a bit of fertilizer and lime on the ones the deer eat. I do this for oak trees too. Also, I cut down maple trees a few days before muzzleloader season. Then come by a few days later to cut the higher branches to the ground. I also spot fertilize the mushrooms. works great for the early adirondack muzzleloader season up north......

Look up red osier dogwood, cranberry highbush, and willows. The deer east these thick brush in the winter. Dont have enough time or money to plant as much as you need? No problem, Buy only 100 of them and plant them in spots of 5 or 10. In 3 years, whack the whole bush down and plant all the clippings in the rows you want. Wet the cuttings and dump them in a hole made by a stick. Done. How is that sorghum to mow after the season. I could see it being a real pain to get trimmed down without a sickle bar and baling.