Jaeger

Schatz has been on 2-3 each day we take our "potty" walk. 0-1 per outing when we take the gun. Go figure. Interesting tho' is that before the deer season she'd put up singles on our walks, now were into groups of 2-3. Mostly down low near the streams and wet areas.

Straight off the NYS Police, Division of State Police, Pistol Permit FAQs page on their Web Site: Q - Are antique handguns subject to the same laws as those applied to modern handguns? The Penal Law definition of antique firearm is generally applied to muzzle loading black powder firearms, but also applies to pistols or revolvers "that use fixed cartridges which are no longer available in the ordinary channels of commercial trade". Muzzle loading pistols or revolvers do not have to be registered on a pistol permit if the owner never intends to fire them. If they are possessed in a loaded condition or are simply possessed simultaneously with the components necessary to make them fire, they must first be registered on a valid pistol permit. Note: Should a manufacturer begin to produce ammunition for a pistol or revolver for which ammunition had not been available previously, that weapon no longer meets the criteria of an antique weapon and is required to be registered. A pistol or revolver, regardless of age, when possessed with the ammunition necessary to make it discharge, is required to be registered. I add the underlining. Jaeger

Does anyone have any experience with Reloader 23? I picked some up from Graf just because, I had a powder order in and thought I'd give it a try. It's a new development and is supposed to be a more temperature stable version of Reloader 22. (seems like all manufactures are trying to get their powders more temperature stable). Is is a fairly direct grain for grain replacement for RL22? Does it meter better or worse? Is it worth it? (Typically develop loads over the spring and summer for use in early fall and winter seasons). Any experience with it out there?

Airdale, I'm interested and have been about these presses for a while. Sounds like a great deal. Where did you get the information about them producing special editions or in different colors? I work in a field that encounters product "knock offs" a lot. Just curious, if they are really RCBS then I'll jump on it, but concerned they may be counterfeit.

Hi, and welcome. I hear the tone throughout your story and understand your motivation. To accomplish what you want, to be a good mentor and hunting companion to your son, just keep the high road and hunt ethically and by the rules. He obviously is very interested and may stay so, (until cars or girls get into the picture, but you've got a few years for that!), if your willing to assist him and obviously you are. I too am from a non-hunting family and had to learn on my own, believe me, its better and more fun with your Dad. My day had no interest in my hunting. He also had no interest in my racing but played pit crew hauling me to races, carrying batteries and starter motors just to be involved with what I loved to do. And at age 64, he learned to scuba dive just so I'd have a dive buddy to go diving with. So I understand. I really applaud your dedication and devotion to your son and all you are doing to help him with what he wants to do. Contrats on the deer by the way, like your son said "good job". Jaeger

Like I said guys, sorry I started this mess. Will try to be more careful before I post. I respect the gentleman above who was a military sniper. I respect your advice and opinion. Thank you for your service. Jaeger

Thanks for all your advice. I understand your reluctance to shoot at a max range you've never shot before but bullets are very predictable over short ranges. If you sight in for 50 would you never shoot 75 with a very flat shooting gun? I expect these new shooters never had to use Kentucky windage or Tennessee elevation with a fixed sight gun. If a gun shoots 2" to the left and 3" high at 56 yards or 47 or 98, a good shooter knows how to adjust. We're not talking sighting in at 25 yards (which, by the way, the bullet has an apparent rise due to the height of the scope above the bore) and then taking a shot at a live animal at 200 or 300 yards. But to each his own. As far as the sighting in, I did it at 47 lasered yards, I was sighting in on our hunting grounds, wanted to be sure where the gun was shooting, took only 3 shots and was satisfied. I didn't put the target out farther, say max 60 just to be sure I was on paper with the first few shots so as to not disturb the area too much. I did not play around with longer ranges, more shots and adjustments, etc. because we had hunters coming in in the afternoon and I will not disturb the area excessively, it's our hunting grounds, not a shooting range. Frankly, I am very supprised that the first few comments were curt condemnations. I am a very ethical hunter and would never take a shot I wasn't sure of. Like I said above, if your sighted in at 50, 100, 150 etc. would you never take a shot at 43, 87, 126, 167 yards just because you've never shot that exact range? (if you can shoot at every range, 1 yard increment at a time, good for you). I know where I'm hitting at 47 yards, I know the velocity and bc of the bullet and the trajectory out to 200yds. I only trust the tables out to about 100. But run the numbers yourself varying the bc and the velocity +/- 200fps and you'll find only a +/- 2" difference in drop at 170 yards. If you can hold 2" at 170 unsupported, good for you. I often wonder if people really know what their rifles are doing when they make "never" or "always" type blunt comments. I know my rifle, I know my load, I know the trajectory (from past experiance on a range) and I know when and when not to take a shot. Sorry I started this thread. Asking for simple advice on this site is getting to be like asking for trouble instead of solutions and help.

I'm going to sight in my LHR with 300gr scorpion PT's at about 1900fps with 110grs. Blackhorn 209. All I can find as a starting point (ballistic calculators) says anything zero on around 30-40 yards will give me a relatively flat trajectory out to about 100 with a 3-4" drop by 150. I do not have time to get to the range and want to shoot at short yardage 30-40 yards to sight in. So, if I zero at about 35-40 yards I should be on at 100 and good to about 125. Does this sound about right? I'm not interested in 1/2 inch here or there, just want to be in the ball park within an inch or so vertically, and will be adjusting to be dead on left to right. I want to quickly get sighted in for my conditions ~75 yards in my woods and will be sighting in along an old clear logging road (ours/private) this afternoon for monday's opener. (buddies still will be rifle hunting and I have a doe tag, on Fri-Sun.) Just curious about what you guys/gals sight in your 300 gr pills with ~100-110 grs powder for.

Exactly as I understand it from the regs and my licensing officer. No permit is needed to buy or possess the muzzleloading, or cap and ball for that matter, pistol. But as soon as you possess the means to fire it, i.e., ball, powder and caps/flint, it becomes a pistol under NY license rules and you need to have a pistol permit for it.

Took my tikka lite .308 out opening weekend and got my first buck with it. Then took out the sako .338 fed 'cause I only have a bear tag now. Just got a custom 7x57 which should mirror all you 7-08 shooters out there. Then of course, the 7600 30-06 has to come out sometime, its my doe getter and the .375 H&H just because. Haven't even started on the levers!! Way too many toys to play with.

LHR Redemption w/simmions 2.5-10 x 44 atec 110 gr Blackhorn 300 gr Harvester Scorpion PT also broke out the Hatfield .45 cal 41" bbl percussion 65gr Swiss FFg .445 Hornady over .10 patch #10 cci caps

Almost correct. The "early season(bow) privilege" is not just for the early season, it's also valid for the SZ late season which, as you said, which runs concurrently with the late season muzzleloader season. Actually the first tag you buy either the bow or the muzzleloader will be an either sex tag. For example, if before any season opens you go buy your late mz tag it will be either sex, if the next day you buy the bow privilege it will be anterless and visa versa. If you buy only one privilege, you get an either sex tag, if you buy both privileges you get an antlerless and either sex tag. I you buy just the bow privilege it, as you said, is either sex and good for the early and late bow season. I think we get confused because there is the early (considered regular) bow season and then the late bow which runs with the muzzleloader (late) season.

Gosh you make me jealous!!!!!!!!! I moved off the island to buy a farm up here in the catskills instead of buying a little creek front cabin/house on the north fork. Still regret it. I really miss duck hunting and sea duck hunting. Sitting in the blind, the smell of the salt air and sulfur of low tide in the marshes. Watching the sun come up over the water. Even miss the sting of the sleet and spray. Will have to get back down again and get my "fix". By the way, where do you hunt? Off the south shore or out in the Peconics?

Not really a game question, but a cooking question. I have saved up 4 frozen large roaster chicken carcases and want to make my own chicken soup. Last winter was brutal!! And today is a good day to cook something up, cold and raw with one deer already in the freezer. Do I make stock first and throw away the vegetables and then use the stock with new vegetable to make the soup or can I do it all at once? Any good chicken soup cooks out there got any advice?

Mine should arrive today!! Hope I didn't just jinx myself. I order some 209 along with Swiss 2F and some smokeless from Graff about 2 weeks ago, it's coming sooner than I expected! Can't wait to see how it performs in the recommended 100-120 gr. charge under a 300 gr Harvester Scorpion PT in my new (to me) LHR Redemption. p.s., the swiss 2F should also burn a little cleaner in my Hatfield .45.

Shawnhu, I believe there is only one bow privilege/tag and one muzzleloader privilege/tag for a license year. There are no separate tags/licenses for early vs late season bow or muzzleloader seasons.

Rob is right, perhaps I should have been clearer. The unused regular season buck tag is valid as an either sex tag in the late seasons that follow the regular season. It cannot be used in an early special bow/muzzleloader season that comes before the regular season in most areas of the state. Bow only areas, LI,Westchester, etc. are different. But the question remains, if the OP's friend is useing his bow tag during any open bow season he's ok. If he is trying to use the bow tag during a muzzleloader only season with a bow, he's not ok. There is a full page in the guide which lays out the uses for the tags and the exceptions, like using an unused reg. season buck tag in the late seasons.

As long as there is an open late bow season concurrent with the late black powder season he is bow hunting and is fine. If there is only a bp season open and he does not have a bp privlage paid for/shown on his license, he can't bow hunt. Remember too, that an unused regular season buck tag is valid as an either sex tag in the late seasons if you already have the bow or muzzleloader privileges.

What is the difference between a wall and a pedestal mount? Does one show more shoulder? I am having mine "shoulder" mounted on an oak plack, looking straight forward in "sneak" position. Is my shoulder mount considered a wall or pedestal mount? Not really sure what the difference is.

My tikka .308 compact. Used a Woodleigh 165 gr. at about 2600fps. Hit him at the base of the neck and the bullet took out the top of the heart and far shoulder and lodged under the skin on the far side. Bullet weighed 134 grains for 81% weight retention. That's some bullet! I will admit to this. I was aiming at the sweet spot directly behind the leg about 1/3 up on the chest. Keep playing it over in my my mind how I hit about 8 inches higher and forward. He was moving and sped up as I was aiming but I really think I just GOT A BIG CASE OF BUCK FEVER!!! Hope any future shots are more on target. As Tony the Tiger used to say: It was grrrreat!!

Stick with it!! Its definitely worth it!!

Wont go on about it, but here he is. Got him Sunday am about 7:10. One shot and dropped like a brick! 40 yards! Been hunting since I was 18, bow on LI not successful, last 10 seriously in the catskills, but last 4-5 with AR's. 4 points on the left and 3 on the right. Yippie!!!!!

I've used a multi-pump .20 sheridan and a Beeman R1 in .177. The beeman is a real tack driver. In that price range all should do you well. Be sure you get hunting pellets, the Beeman silver jets and the hollow points work very well on squirrels. The main thing I will tell you here is that if you scope it or replace the original scope make very sure you use a scope designed for air rifles. I'm guessing you are picking out a spring piston air gun and not a pre-charged pnumatic or air spring rifle which do not have the scope problems. A spring piston air rifle has a double direction recoil and will tear a cheap, non-air gun scope innards apart in short order.

Woodleigh 165 gr in my .308 winchester. Selling the 338 Federal Sako black bear by the way if anyone is interested. Around $1400 with bases and rings. Used lightly one season.

Thanks, but it is a 5 figure project not 4. And yes I did (and do) take those guns out to use. My little hatfield 20ga has more thorn scratches than I can shake a stick at, everyone a memory of a hunt. Any "abuse" marks are memories not pain. I am single, have my debts paid off and can afford to splurge on guns I enjoy. I fully understand most of you are in a different boat with families (which I envy by the way) and don't have room in the budget for this kind of playing around. I enjoy the guns, their look and feel. I have brutal weather using guns as well. Like you say, to each his own. p.s., Schatz is a Drahthaar (german wirehair)