Work Bench - Anyone do a custom top for one in other then wood?

[burmjohn]

I built a few work benches for my garage a few months ago.  Going to build a few more over the winter after the hunting season   Anyways, anyone ever doing any kind of neat / interesting tops on them?  Right now its just 3/4 plywood, but  I like to work on cars and I am always spilling some kind of grease or oil.  I was thinking of getting some kind of diamond plate topping or something to put on there.  Any suggestions?

I found some crappy cell phone pics I took of the work benches when I was building them, attached.

[nyslowhand]

The initial concept of a "workbench" is great.

Mine start out looking like your 2nd photo, then some more tools, more parts,... until there is no place to work on the bench.

Unless you're unique or have OCD, most workbenches end up as temporary storage areas.

Back to your question, just retired from a production machine shop environment.

All of their workbenches at each machine had the wood butcher-block tops.

They do take a lot of abuse and if sealed properly can tolerate coolant, oil, grease or gas spills.

They are not cheap. They can be sanded, planed or refinished and last a long time.

I've seen guys get irregular kitchen counter tops from places like Mr. Seconds, Big Lots, etc and make workbench tops out of them.

Mine all are framed similar to yours but end up with painted or sealed real plywood as tops.

Diamond plate sounds ideal - impervious to almost any abuse or spill.

It is a hard work surface that may be less than ideal for protecting the items being worked on.

[Geno C]

i was actually going to build one like yours for my garage and for my shed. i like having a smooth surface so i personally wouldn't use diamond plate. but yours looks nice. i will deff be doing one after i finish some work down in the garage and also after hunting season.

[Doc]

I have two shops. One in the barn and one in the basement. The one in the basement is for sort of "clean-room" projects such as bow work and ammo reloading, and a lot of projects that involve equipment with delicate finishes and such as in work on the bows or rifles or small appliances. So I have one bench that has a carpeted top. I can lay whatever I want on there without any concern of picking up scratches or having anything digging at the finish of whatever work-piece I place there. As a side benefit, any loose screws or small parts do not roll off the bench, but stay right where I put them.

Doc

[WNYBuckHunter]

If you can find someone to bend it for you, stainless with sort of a backsplash on the back of it and then bent down to form the lip on the front would be your best bet. If you want to rebuild transmissions, or other heavy stuff on the bench, Id go with 2x12s instead of the ply for the top, then the stainless over that. Diamond plate is too rough, you really want a smooth surface so you dont scratch things you are working on and you can slide heavy objects on the bench.

[Doewhacker]

If you can find someone to bend it for you, stainless with sort of a backsplash on the back of it and then bent down to form the lip on the front would be your best bet. If you want to rebuild transmissions, or other heavy stuff on the bench, Id go with 2x12s instead of the ply for the top, then the stainless over that. Diamond plate is too rough, you really want a smooth surface so you dont scratch things you are working on and you can slide heavy objects on the bench.

Good idea and I would like to add to it.. maybe a heating and cooling guy could bend the SS for it. They do alot with duct work and what not and usually make their own parts...I seen him do it last year at my house.

[WNYBuckHunter]

Yeah, just gotta find someone with a wide enough brake. You can also keep an eye on my favorite site, Craigslist, for used commercial kitchen counters and stuff that might have a steel top you could use. I see them on there from time to time.

[burmjohn]

That SS option might cost a small fortune, however it would look really nice   P.S. under the 3/4 ply is 2x4's every 12 inches.

[burmjohn]

I wonder if some type of epoxy coat could work?

[Doewhacker]

That SS option might cost a small fortune, however it would look really nice   P.S. under the 3/4 ply is 2x4's every 12 inches.

I don't remeber it being really exspensive for the stuff he used for the cold air returns but I have a short term memory.. wait what are we talking about?

[WNYBuckHunter]

You need thicker stuff than what cold air returns are made from lol. You could also use regular rolled steel, but it will be a little tougher to keep clean and rust free. You could try an epoxy coat, like the garage floor coating, but its not going to hold up in the long run. Especially if you are working on large, heavy parts alot, like heads, etc. The steel is a bigger cost at first, but its well worth it in the long run. 

Just my experience though.

I just thought of this, but maybe try some of that non textured truck bedliner, that might hold up and you can buy quarts of it at the auto parts store.

[Doewhacker]

You need thicker stuff than what cold air returns are made from lol. You could also use regular rolled steel, but it will be a little tougher to keep clean and rust free. You could try an epoxy coat, like the garage floor coating, but its not going to hold up in the long run. Especially if you are working on large, heavy parts alot, like heads, etc. The steel is a bigger cost at first, but its well worth it in the long run. 

Just my experience though.

I know that its thin!! I may have missed it but what about a cheap piece of counter top from Lowes, would that work?

[burmjohn]

Hmm, the bed liner thing isnt a bad idea.  I wonder how that would hold up to oil and stuff.

[WNYBuckHunter]

Holds up great to that stuff in my Dad's truck. Ive had engines, transmissions, rear axles, firewood, engine hoists and many other things back there sliding around with oil leaking, etc and had no problems. That bedliner is going on 10 years old and doesnt have a scratch on it. Like I have said, I havent been gentle with it.

[burmjohn]

Bought some of the DuPont Bed Armor - http://www.bedarmor.com/bedarmor.php - It says it adheres to wood, so figured why not.  Got a quart to try it out, maybe I'll put it on tonight and let ya know how it goes with some pics.

[burmjohn]

This is what it says it does:

Superior Product Performance

    * Formulated with DuPont™ Kevlar©

    * Will Not Fade or Deteriorate with UV Exposure

    * Rust and Corrosion Resistant

    * Flexible, Impact-Resistant Coating that will Not Peel, Chip or Flake

    * Maximum Adhesion to Metal, Wood, Concrete and other Surfaces

    * Gasoline and Chemical Resistant

    * Water-Based Polyurethane Coating is Easy-To-Use and Low Oder

    * Provides a Textured, Non-Skid Surface

    * Durable, Rubberized Finish Extends Truck Bed Life

[burmjohn]

before pics and after first coat pics.

[WNYBuckHunter]

Good choice. How many coats are you going to put on? Id suggest at least 4. You want the stuff to be nice and thick for it to work the best.

[burmjohn]

It will end up being about 3 with the second quart, that crap is expensive   I got the better kind, that specifically said it was OK for wood.

[WNYBuckHunter]

Yeah its not the cheapest thing in the world, but its not that bad either. Less money than stainless steel lol.

[burmjohn]

All coats are done!  This thing is going to be pretty nice, it felt like it adhered really well when i checked this morning before the 2nd coat.  I need to buy a vice now to mount. Any idea why the hell they are so expensive?? I am thinking of a 6 inch one.  Any other suggestions on other things to mount besides a vice?

[WNYBuckHunter]

I have a vice that I bought at Harbor freight, its a 6 inch and its pretty darn nice. Cost $59 or $69 if I remember right. A good grinder is always helpful.

[burmjohn]

I hate going to their website, because I end up buying like 10 other things.

[WNYBuckHunter]

HAHAHA, I went there Friday and walked out with more than I intended to lol

[burmjohn]

Your lucky, you have a store near you?