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Calling ALL Muzzleloaders!!


HuntingNY
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I have only one muzzleloader, a .54 cal. T/C Renegade which I purchased new back in 1981. It's the only one I've ever used and I've never seen a need for change. I think I paid $159 for it new. The only changes I made to it was remove the rear sight, added a T/C rear peep sight, and removed the square partridge front sight and replaced that with a T/C bead. I then took the T/C bead, drilled a tiny recess in the face, and added a spot of white paint for contrast. It's always proven to be accurate with one load, which I have never deviated from over the years. Here's an old target I saved that was shot from the bench using sandbags with my new peep sights at 100 yards.

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I have only one muzzleloader, a .54 cal. T/C Renegade which I purchased new back in 1981. It's the only one I've ever used and I've never seen a need for change. I think I paid $159 for it new. The only changes I made to it was remove the rear sight, added a T/C rear peep sight, and removed the square partridge front sight and replaced that with a T/C bead. I then took the T/C bead, drilled a tiny recess in the face, and added a spot of white paint for contrast. It's always proven to be accurate with one load, which I have never deviated from over the years. Here's an old target I saved that was shot from the bench using sandbags with my new peep sights at 100 yards.

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Did you add the peep yourself? I have a Lyman and I have problems with the back sight. It folds down and also due to poor eyesight it blurs up on me.

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Yes. All that was entailed was drilling and tapping one hole in the rear metal tang piece. It was obvious to me from the get-go that the rear square open sights were okay, but not for my eyes at ranges beyond 50 yards. Peeps are more precise and it's been on there for a long time now and served me well.

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Thank You and Yes, NYDeere, It's a T/C Hawkins 50 cal, she just dropped after being hit with a maxi-ball.  They grow em' big up here burmjohn, I've killed 5 or 6 does that big with the muzzy/bow over the last few years, perfect for harvesting. She was post-reproductive, no fawns and no milk either.

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I have a question on muzzle loaders. I have 2 of them, a new in line and a old cap and ball type. My question is: Can I shoot the new maxi-ball and sabot type bullets or do I have to use only round balls with granual in the old gun?

Thanks, NYDeere

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NYDeere: Assuming the older gun is a hawkins' style, such as the one in my picture above, You can either shoot the balls or the old Maxi-balls, NO saboted rounds. My father in law always made my maxi balls for me, they are 325 grain. I used them with 100 grains of pyrodex powder and it hits the deer like a locomotive. I also ALWAYS unscrew the nipple and tap in a little powder under the nipple. TRUST ME..... this will save you a lot of heartache from misfires!

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It would depend on the amount of twist in the barrel. With a slow twist you are better off with a patch and ball and granual. I shoot a Lyman Deerstalker with 1 in 48 twist and I use granual Black Powder and a 385gr Hornady Great plains bullet much like deerslayer. My father has a gun that has 1 in 60 twist and he uses patch and ball, it is every bit as accurate as my set up.

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I have a T/C Hawken in .45 cal from 1980.  I've been using Maxi-Balls most of the time with 80 to 90 grains of Pyrodex in it.  I've also used patched balls as well as sabots.  They all seem to shoot fine for me.  But I prefer to hunt with the heavy Maxi-Balls.  They go right through a deer everytime.

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I have a question on muzzle loaders. I have 2 of them, a new in line and a old cap and ball type. My question is: Can I shoot the new maxi-ball and sabot type bullets or do I have to use only round balls with granual in the old gun?

Thanks, NYDeere

NYDeere, if the ML has rifling in the barrel try some Powerbelt bullets.  They work great in my gun.  Just don't use powder pellets, they are for in-lines.

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