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Taking the plunge


cdmckane
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Ok I am still confused, thick headed or whatever here

 

I am going to get measured for a bow. I go to archery shop they have me hold bow elbow slightly bent, they tell me to draw back the bow and come to an anchor point which puts my right forearm(right handed shooter) in a straight line with arrow and keep my elbow slightly up.

 

I now do this with an arrow that's marked and measure to the deepest part of grip from the nock add 1 3/4 and  get my drawlength.

 

 

Is this correct?

 

And is this correct?  If not why?

 

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If you stand against a door jamb, basement pole ect... you will be in the up right position. Draw your bow back while standing with leg and side of your body still touching. This will give you a pretty good idea if your long/short on your DL. After I make adjustments doing that. I go right to shooting 5 feet away from target shooting bare shafts with fletched shafts. If BS are hitting left of fletched. Your DL is too short. BS hitting right of fletched. Your to long. There's a lot more to it than just taking measurements. Yes. That will get you in the ballpark. Then it is a lot of trial and error/fine tuning to get you to that exact DL.  This is something that you most likely will have to work on yourself. There aren't many shops that will get this far in depth with you. They will get you close and depending how picky you are. The fine tuning will be up to you.

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And is this correct?  If not why?

 

 

Yeap..As long as you are using proper stance and form.

 

This is why I don't 100% agree with not changing dl of bow when adding d loop. I guess it depends on how set one is in their anchor point. For me, I have a set anchor point where I put my hand every time. This maintains the proper body positioning(well, as good as I can do anyway).lol..Where the string is depends on the bow axle to axle to axle length changes this dynamic. I wouldn't dream of changing it to for a change in equipment.

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Bowtoons,

 

That didn't really answer how you get a measurement. although its good information to correct a drawlength. How do you get a length?

 

IMO. Your not going to find any formula to give you the "perfect" length. You will get pretty damn close using wingspan, Wrist to buttons measurement, arrow marked  ect... but the only way to get it right to the T is something only you can do with seeing the results of different lengths in 1/16" increments. On all 3 of my bows. They measure on the Draw board at exactly 28 1/4". That's the length that has shown me the best results.

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Yeap..As long as you are using proper stance and form.

 

This is why I don't 100% agree with not changing dl of bow when adding d loop. I guess it depends on how set one is in their anchor point. For me, I have a set anchor point where I put my hand every time. This maintains the proper body positioning(well, as good as I can do anyway).lol..Where the string is depends on the bow axle to axle to axle length changes this dynamic. I wouldn't dream of changing it to for a change in equipment.

 

Bowtoons or anyone else

Can you explain why you don't agree with this statement?

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Seems simple to me.. I close my eyes draw my bow(27.75" dl) back to my anchor point. feels perfect

Close my eyes you take my 1/2" d loop off and I draw back.Suddenly ,not so perfect.I need a bow with a 1/2"longer dl

I have to agree that at no point does my draw length get longer or shorter but my bows dl needs to.

Now for some.. the position of the string on their nose and or face take precedent over all else for their anchor. These people would have to adjust their hand position to accommodate, not their bow.

 

If we exaggerate a little bit.. We could add a 4"loop to a bow. no doubt we would have to change bows draw length then.

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Seems simple to me.. I close my eyes draw my bow(27.75" dl) back to my anchor point. feels perfect

Close my eyes you take my 1/2" d loop off and I draw back.Suddenly ,not so perfect.I need a bow with a 1/2"longer dl

I have to agree that at no point does my draw length get longer or shorter but my bows dl needs to.

Now for some.. the position of the string on their nose and or face take precedent over all else for their anchor. These people would have to adjust their hand position to accommodate, not their bow.

 

If we exaggerate a little bit.. We could add a 4"loop to a bow. no doubt we would have to change bows draw length then.

:fie:

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moog, out of curiosity, I took out that old PSE I talked about earlier...........there is a stop on the bottom cam only, and it stops against the cable that is closest to the inside of the limb "fork", so it's obviously not a solid stop, and if you give it a little extra pull, it actually forces that cable in, and thats where I am able to get the extra draw out of it, poor design as I can also see where that stop wears on the cable.

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moog, out of curiosity, I took out that old PSE I talked about earlier...........there is a stop on the bottom cam only, and it stops against the cable that is closest to the inside of the limb "fork", so it's obviously not a solid stop, and if you give it a little extra pull, it actually forces that cable in, and thats where I am able to get the extra draw out of it, poor design as I can also see where that stop wears on the cable.

 

 

All of the cable stops push against cables and are less rigid than limb stops.  My 2012 insanity does that too.  Sure you can overdraw by pulling to hard, but not by much.  I prefer the limb stops as they generally provide a more solid back wall.  I like the elites with limb stops, although the bowtech shoots great for me too.  I assume all of the single cam bows are only 1 stop (limb or cable).  My first matthews was like that.

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I can't convince myself to stay with back tension for hunting yet.  I think about one of those crazy, leaning under a limb shots and think it would make it twice as hard with back tension.  I know shooting back tension at Xs, I tend to be more accurate, but not by enough to give up the strap for hunting, and I don't compete anyway.  It does teach you how to properly pull through the shot though and that has helped even with my strap release.

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You can shoot back tension with any release. I have my buddies longhorn that I practice with. I only hunt and shoot comp. with thumb trigger but shoot it with the back tension process. It's nice to have that trigger just in case you have to punch it. That's what we call a "drive by" when shooting target...lol.

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