New stiffer arrows.. Help me tune.

[Doewhacker]

Micro adjustments Zeus, it will move the BH with out messing anything else up for the most part. Move it a hair left. 

 

Fantastic BH group. 

[zeus1gdsm]

Alright. Cooking shrimp scampi. Back at it tomorrow.

I appreciate the help guys. Just to do my part for a clean kill with maximum efficiency

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[moog5050]

45 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

Won't moving the rest to the left affect my walkback tuning

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
 

Like doewhacker mentioned, it should actually help.  It's a process.  Small adjustments until BH and FP are in the same group at 20.  Then try the same at 30 and 40 and report back.  You will get there. 

In the end, the goal is to have the FP and BH to hit same POI including same vertical line as you walk back.  

Edited September 10, 2016 by moog5050

[Doewhacker]

This is why I am a huge fan of micro adjust rests and sights, some times a fraction is all that is needed to make it perfect.  It never failed with me, I'd be a hair off and try to make an adjustment and spaz out and move way to much by accident. 

The good news is Zeus you are almost there and this is a cool thread for others in this situation. 

[moog5050]

6 minutes ago, Doewhacker said:

This is why I am a huge fan of micro adjust rests and sights, some times a fraction is all that is needed to make it perfect.  It never failed with me, I'd be a hair off and try to make an adjustment and spaz out and move way to much by accident. 

The good news is Zeus you are almost there and this is a cool thread for others in this situation. 

Lol.  I did this a few times this morning with Phades sight.   Oops, now where was it?  I like micro adjust too but sighting in is the easy part.  Takes a while to understand what each rest movement should do for arrow flight.  Then you have the outlier.   I have even had bows that I had to move FP to BH and not the normal BH to FP.  Like you said, small movements, check and adjust.  When you start flopping limbs or changing axle shims, like I have, it's probably more than is required to kill a deer.  

[zeus1gdsm]

Yeah my next rest will definitely be a micro adjust with vertical adjust

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[zeus1gdsm]

Getting there... 2 BHs and 1 FP. 30 yards.

I think I'm gonna let it be today.



Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[zeus1gdsm]

Broadheads at 30 again

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[DirtTime]

5 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

Broadheads at 30 again

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
 

That's a very respectable group right there. 

[zeus1gdsm]

Alright. More fps and a third broadhead. The BH is the farthest right. It's a practice head. The top 2 and hunting heads.

All of these at 30 yards.

I don't know why the field points are grouping lower. Head weights are the same.


I think I'm done sighting and tuneing?

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[zeus1gdsm]

Broadheads with nocturnal at 20. Low arrow is the practice head

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[zeus1gdsm]

BHs again at 30

When I do my part the BHs are all landing in the same vertical line.

Thinking a slight adjustment to the right and down for the sight.
Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[zeus1gdsm]

Holy smoly. I think I'm finally there.

20 yards.


Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[Doewhacker]

Job well done! 

Now you have learned the ins and outs, anytime you change something in your set up be prepared to do it again. You'll learn to love it. 

[zeus1gdsm]

My fps are still hitting left of my BHs but only 4 inches or so.

I just shot one single BH at 10-20-30-40 and all hit bull except for the 40 which was a 3-4 inches left.

I think I'm done.

I am emotionally drained. I've cut vanes and busted a few arrows. At this point I'm going to stick to the broadheads. And make sure I have 3 solid arrows hitting the same spot at all distances.

I've tightened up all my sight and rest screws and I won't be touching them again.

I know that the bow isn't 100% in tune. And it's agony to me.

I may just have to get a new bow next spring. With updated technology and a micro adjustable rest vertical and horizontal. I think my nock point may be off on this bow. But it is too close to season for me to want to start all over.

If someone knowledgeable lives in the cny area I would be happy to have their in person advice. I would even drive to them to seek their expertise.

I've learned a ton. But changing g the nock point will require me to start all over. And having not done it. It's just too much right now.

I appreciate all the help provided. The community here has again shown the positive comoradarie that can exist in the hunting community.

Thank you.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[moog5050]

Good job Zeus.  Better for sure.  I understand getting tired of tuning.  That said, its hard for me to follow your photos, but assuming  the FPs are consistently hitting lower than BHs, try dropping your rest a touch (not much) since your don't want to change your nocking point.  The BHs may be planing a bit.  Also, I think you said BHs are still right of FPs, again, small adjustments to the left may help.  Honestly, I question whether you have the right spine since the arrows seems to be landing at different angles, but I also understand that you may just need to use what you have.  Also, using lighted nocks, which weigh more, will stiffen your arrow dynamically.

Not saying you are not a consistent shooter either, but the rule is that you can only real tune as well as you can shoot.  So the better you become as a shooter, the easier the tuning process is since the shots are more consistent and flight errors are more easily identified.  This is even more true with trad archery.

Edited September 12, 2016 by moog5050

[Doewhacker]

Moog I think the angle of the pics makes the arrows look like they are hitting weird. I agree though tiny move to the left will help.

 

 "Also, using lighted nocks, which weigh more, will stiffen your arrow dynamically"

Does adding weight to the rear of an arrow add stiffness? Usually adding weight lessens stiffness.

[The_Real_TCIII]

Moog's right, weight on the back increases spine/stiffness. Just dont throw your FOC out of whack, that is a major factor in arrow flight

Edited September 12, 2016 by The_Real_TCIII

[moog5050]

Yep - adding weight to the back is the opposite of adding weight to the front for dynamic spine purposes.  It will make an arrow act stiffer.

Not sure about camera angle, but those sure seem to be entering from different directions which shows tune problems, unless he started shooting at different angles.

Edited September 12, 2016 by moog5050

[Doewhacker]

Neat, never knew that. Well I can deff see where that would cause arrows to group differently.

[Doewhacker]

Moog, would a stiffer spine cause the right flight? It looks like that if I am understanding the chart.

[zeus1gdsm]

Well I moved the rest to the left 1 hash or 1mm. And arrows flight became extremely erratic. And the gap between FP and BHs increased.

It's a standard whisker biscuit. I can't drop the rest. Accurately. Or evenly. I attempted and it creates a downward slant to the biscuit.

I'll look into moving the nock point.

Just beat. Been at this for 2 weeks. Shooting almost every day. I've been shooting the bow period for the last 4 months a couple times week.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk

[The_Real_TCIII]

This to me is the only drawback to the biscuit. It does too much correction before your arrow hits the paper, masking rest/nock adjustments that may need to be made

[moog5050]

28 minutes ago, Doewhacker said:

Moog, would a stiffer spine cause the right flight? It looks like that if I am understanding the chart.

For a right handed shooter, stiff spine usually results in arrow left of target.

That said, compounds usually have quite a bit of wiggle room for arrow spine.  Single string not so much.

Edited September 12, 2016 by moog5050

[zeus1gdsm]

Alright just to sway KY nock point fears.... Here is a pic of the nock with square and just a sliver of the bottom of the rest screw hole showing.

By my eye center of arrow lines up about 1/8

Is this accurate?



And with a different square. Same sliver of screw hole. Also showing 1/8.



This looks correct and what I should have based on my googling.