Now Im 100% No-till!!!

[tuckersdaddy]

I've rounded out my No-Till arsenal! 330 AC 4 row large seed, Jacobson slit seeder for small seed, and an old super heavy drill for trees... Now mabey I wont have to replace tiller tines this year!

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[sailinghudson25]

I spray as little as possible.

 

But, a really good no till routine includes a decent bit of spraying.

[LET EM GROW]

Nice! We designed and just made a compact version of a no till drill to pull behind a quad. Just add some weight. And the tow behind roller. Pictures are from the "almost done" time frame. Lol

Next is a setup for a 3pt system. With a disk I've got laying around.






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[ATbuckhunter]

Awesome! You will see an increase in your yields year after year. 

[tuckersdaddy]

Awesome! You will see an increase in your yields year after year. 

Not as comcerned about yield increase, was chaseing a faster way of getting the seed in the ground. Ive had the large seed 4row for a few years now and I can comfortably run 3 acers and hour. The slit seeder is a new addition, but I was able to reseed my back yard in 20 minutes.

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[ATbuckhunter]

Not as comcerned about yield increase, was chaseing a faster way of getting the seed in the ground. Ive had the large seed 4row for a few years now and I can comfortably run 3 acers and hour. The slit seeder is a new addition, but I was able to reseed my back yard in 20 minutes.

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Either way it's is much more beneficial to use a no till. Big for your time and gas, as well as for the flora in the dirt.


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[landtracdeerhunter]

How did the no-till work out for you last season? Let's say I am a big fan of Allis Chalmers.

[landtracdeerhunter]

On 4/30/2017 at 8:53 PM, LET EM GROW said:

Nice! We designed and just made a compact version of a no till drill to pull behind a quad. Just add some weight. And the tow behind roller. Pictures are from the "almost done" time frame. Lol

Next is a setup for a 3pt system. With a disk I've got laying around.






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How did this work out?

[stubborn1VT]

On 5/1/2017 at 10:09 AM, ATbuckhunter said:

Either way it's is much more beneficial to use a no till. Big for your time and gas, as well as for the flora in the dirt.


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How does the flora in the dirt do with all the glyphosate that goes along with modern no-till methods?

[LET EM GROW]

3 hours ago, landtracdeerhunter said:

How did this work out?

It worked well, the pvc seed tube broke when it found a taller rock. So we switched it over to garden hose for the tube. With the dead standing vegetation we are "dropping seed into, the discs doesnt really need to cut very deep, just enough to drop and hold a seed. Then the Roller puts downward pressure on the disks b/c we put the pulling pint over the top of the seed hopper. So the combo of the roller and dead veg. and good rain. Results are very good.  Trying to build another with one of the pull behind setups for this coming spring.  

[landtracdeerhunter]

6 minutes ago, LET EM GROW said:

It worked well, the pvc seed tube broke when it found a taller rock. So we switched it over to garden hose for the tube. With the dead standing vegetation we are "dropping seed into, the discs doesnt really need to cut very deep, just enough to drop and hold a seed. Then the Roller puts downward pressure on the disks b/c we put the pulling pint over the top of the seed hopper. So the combo of the roller and dead veg. and good rain. Results are very good.  Trying to build another with one of the pull behind setups for this coming spring.  

How do you control the seed drop rate?

[ATbuckhunter]

2 hours ago, stubborn1VT said:

How does the flora in the dirt do with all the glyphosate that goes along with modern no-till methods?

Supposedly glyphosphate neutralizes when it hits soil, so it shouldn't have an effect on any fungal and bacterial communities present in the soil. I haven't really done much research on it though, so it may actually effect these communities. I do however know that no-till methods are extremely beneficial to the fungal and bacterial communities, which in turn increase yields by a large amount

[LET EM GROW]

It was trial and error at first because we only had a couple of bicycle gear "sets" to work with. Never realized how many different gears and chains there are on your everyday huffys and such.. ITs unreal. Trying to stay cheap as possible on the build. but if you change sprocket sizes(teeth) you can change your spacing out closer/further. To meter and drop seed, if you look at the 2nd pic, there are water pump impellers(the black in between the white spaces) that catch and drop the seed. As the sprocket turns with the chain which is driven by the disks. It rotates the pvc shaft that holds these impellers on them and the seed drops in the "slots" of each imppeller as it turns then drops down the seed tubes when its facing downwards (6oclock) as it rotates... MY buddy likes it setup the way it is, but id rather have less teeth on the top sprocket for more rotations(closer seed spacing) He believes in a big bushier Soy bean plant, where i like more plants tighter spaced(like farmers plant). Not sure which is best, but i want pods more than leaves

It drops a seed every 10" the way it is here, roughly.  

Edited January 26, 2018 by LET EM GROW

[landtracdeerhunter]

Allis 333 no till large seed planters used different sprocket sizes on their fert. drive transmission to determine the rate of flow They also had different size augers in their fert. hoppers for high fert rates. I also remember different size sprockets on their seed drive which used a blower and right size plastic dics for size seed used.  I   also have an old Allis 3 point hitch grain drill that speeds and slow rotation by gears for seed drop. I'm quite surprised no company ever came out with a remote hydraulic drive system back when this equipment was new. I still have owners manuals on  this equipment.

Edited January 29, 2018 by landtracdeerhunter

[LET EM GROW]

Even if our spacing is not perfect with each pass, which as long as they dont bind up when the impeller picks the seed and or it drops down the tube, there shuoldnt be an issue.. At least we will have a "Row Crop" which i think is way cool, rather than a broadcasting. Not knocking the broadcasting but, there is something about planting seeds in rows vs scatter IMO lol 

[Dom]

I cant say I agree with this You all are breaking the soil with discs no till to myself would be pouring seed atop the ground.Yes I know your not tilling plowing the soil but still sowing seed below the surface.

[landtracdeerhunter]

18 minutes ago, Dom said:

I cant say I agree with this You all are breaking the soil with discs no till to myself would be pouring seed atop the ground.Yes I know your not tilling plowing the soil but still sowing seed below the surface.

 I can see your point Dom. When I use no til, I bring that term with me from a 43 year history with farm equipment manufactures and dealers. Many large scale farmers are actually using the practice of min till today. They loosen the surface with some sort of disc or chisel device, then plant.  Some no till certain years, if soil condition warrants.

[Dom]

4 minutes ago, landtracdeerhunter said:

 I can see your point Dom. When I use no til, I bring that term with me from a 43 year history with farm equipment manufactures and dealers. Many large scale farmers are actually using the practice of min till today. They loosen the surface with some sort of disc or chisel device, then plant.  Some no till certain years, if soil condition warrants.

I was mostly being a wise ass!My Dad and his brother used to mostly disc their fields.They also did controlled burning on areas they wanted to be able for planting.They would get some pissed when they broke or chipped a blade/disc.It is nice to see some of the older ways of farming come back

[landtracdeerhunter]

2 hours ago, LET EM GROW said:

Even if our spacing is not perfect with each pass, which as long as they dont bind up when the impeller picks the seed and or it drops down the tube, there shuoldnt be an issue.. At least we will have a "Row Crop" which i think is way cool, rather than a broadcasting. Not knocking the broadcasting but, there is something about planting seeds in rows vs scatter IMO lol 

Non the least, it's a great effort on your part. Row crop studies do agree, that many plants do preform better under row crop conditions. Different soil types have to be handle variety of ways. Management practices have change so much, since I took coarses many years ago.

[Dom]

I have a question do you test the soil before planting or just take a chance on what will grow?Soil differs from area to areas

[landtracdeerhunter]

I have soil tests done out to as much as three years on expensive crops. On my deer plantings, I never do. I can tell what the soils are lacking by plant inspection. Growing recommendation for specific plants is a good guideline to follow.

[LET EM GROW]

I havent taken a soil test in years. Mainly because I am planting the same fields every year, incoprating crop rotations as well as organic matters. So the soil should be fairly healthy, especially from where it started 15 years ago. It maybe a bit low on the PH scale but it gets a heavy crop rotation and sometime double and triple cropped. Im cheap and wont pay the high fertilizer price, and incorporate Lime only every so often. Try to use my extra money on family needs. 

I do have a new plot, I want to get a test done at some point. Its been golden rod for a decade or two. And sits just down hill from what was a small mature spruce plantation(clearcut in April 2017). 

[landtracdeerhunter]

On 1/30/2018 at 10:24 AM, LET EM GROW said:

I havent taken a soil test in years. Mainly because I am planting the same fields every year, incoprating crop rotations as well as organic matters. So the soil should be fairly healthy, especially from where it started 15 years ago. It maybe a bit low on the PH scale but it gets a heavy crop rotation and sometime double and triple cropped. Im cheap and wont pay the high fertilizer price, and incorporate Lime only every so often. Try to use my extra money on family needs. 

I do have a new plot, I want to get a test done at some point. Its been golden rod for a decade or two. And sits just down hill from what was a small mature spruce plantation(clearcut in April 2017). 

That golden rod area will be pretty high in nutrients the first year, as it was fallow land.  Could be slightly on the acid side due to the spruce though. Good corn land.

[LET EM GROW]

I figured it couldnt be too bad, soil never exposed, always something growing and brush hogged every few years.

Every few years the farmer plants corn on the other side of where this is, over the property line. but all the same "field".. Then it is oats or some grain maybe clover once in awhile in rotation. But in the last 6 years or so, he has done corn twice.  I'm mainly focusing on a screen for visual purposes but am going to incorporate some summer/late season deer and bird foods.. this will bud up to an existing wheat, clover, chicory alfalfa plot. Excited to see how it turns out this summer

[tuckersdaddy]

How did the no-till work out for you last season? Let's say I am a big fan of Allis Chalmers.

It worked very well. can turn about 3 acers an hour. The A/C stuff was always leading edge in its day, and was built before the tractors were 200+hp so it can used with small tractors. The downside is all of it is its all 50+ yrs old so its well used when you find it. Most parts are still avalibe used, some new, but you will have to go through it before you use it. The best part of the A/C's is the flexability.. 2 different frames, 2 different seeding head systems, multiple heads for each system. Multiple tool bars so you can equip it with other system, or change the plant widths as needed. yep I like it.

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