Height for windows in raised deer blind?

[GreenDrake]

My doors swing into the stand. Easier to climb the ladder and push the door in then pull it out. Also, if by chance you lean or fall against the door while inside, no chance of it opening and falling out.

[UpStateRedNeck]

On 7/8/2019 at 1:29 PM, GreenDrake said:

My doors swing into the stand. Easier to climb the ladder and push the door in then pull it out. Also, if by chance you lean or fall against the door while inside, no chance of it opening and falling out.

I'll keep that in mind for the next 8

[fasteddie]

I believe that the chair height would determine the height of the windows to be installed . Office chair sounds like a good idea .

I have a 6' high elevated frame located on the bank of a pond . The frame is 5' square on top and I had been using a Hub Blind for the past 4 seasons . 

My oldest son said that if I buy or supply the windows , he would make a frame , enclose it with plywood and put a roof on it . He suggested double pane windows as they probably wouldn't frost up like single pane . Lowes appears to have the best deal . 

Here is what I am considering for the windows . I think sliding them up and down would be more practical than sliding them sideways . 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-10001-Left-Operable-Vinyl-New-Construction-White-Exterior-Sliding-Window-Rough-Opening-36-in-x-36-in-Actual-35-5-in-x-35-5-in/3681932

[UpStateRedNeck]

3 hours ago, fasteddie said:

I believe that the chair height would determine the height of the windows to be installed . Office chair sounds like a good idea .

I have a 6' high elevated frame located on the bank of a pond . The frame is 5' square on top and I had been using a Hub Blind for the past 4 seasons . 

My oldest son said that if I buy or supply the windows , he would make a frame , enclose it with plywood and put a roof on it . He suggested double pane windows as they probably wouldn't frost up like single pane . Lowes appears to have the best deal . 

Here is what I am considering for the windows . I think sliding them up and down would be more practical than sliding them sideways . 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-10001-Left-Operable-Vinyl-New-Construction-White-Exterior-Sliding-Window-Rough-Opening-36-in-x-36-in-Actual-35-5-in-x-35-5-in/3681932

Check these out Eddie : 

http://deerviewwindows.com/hinge-window-3/

Be another 2 weeks to get mine, but seemed like a quiet, cheap solution with good visibility.  3 weeks fabrication time gives me time to build the enclosure, paint it, and get the brush hog going on the spot where it's going to be.

[fasteddie]

4 hours ago, UpStateRedNeck said:

Check these out Eddie : 

http://deerviewwindows.com/hinge-window-3/

 

These windows are rather small ( 12" high ) . Shipping costs are high . 

[mlammerhirt]

I believe that the chair height would determine the height of the windows to be installed . Office chair sounds like a good idea .
I have a 6' high elevated frame located on the bank of a pond . The frame is 5' square on top and I had been using a Hub Blind for the past 4 seasons . 
My oldest son said that if I buy or supply the windows , he would make a frame , enclose it with plywood and put a roof on it . He suggested double pane windows as they probably wouldn't frost up like single pane . Lowes appears to have the best deal . 
Here is what I am considering for the windows . I think sliding them up and down would be more practical than sliding them sideways . 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Project-Source-10001-Left-Operable-Vinyl-New-Construction-White-Exterior-Sliding-Window-Rough-Opening-36-in-x-36-in-Actual-35-5-in-x-35-5-in/3681932

That size window may expose all movement in the box blind. You may wanna 12-18 inches high and then longer like 24-30 inches to get a good field of view. Just a thought

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[Nomad]

Don’t over think it . My first box blind I built at work , with a Marine that killed many towel heads ,he set the height of the windows based upon sitting on a chair . It’s worked fine ,it’s not like you’re shooting deer  close out of it .

our second one again we based upon sitting in a chair , but sitting up straight or crouching down  it’s no big deal .

[UpStateRedNeck]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ondura-4-ft-x-6-58-ft-Corrugated-Asphalt-Roof-Panel/3010612&ved=2ahUKEwizhuXpirPjAhVKCM0KHTViAsAQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw3hmVtVFWVyELn6mSR6qhUG

 

I used this for the roof.....  Not a gigantic fan.  Glad I had some rubber sealant to repair a couple holes.  Stuff rips pretty easy.  Did like the foam filler for the ridges though.  Roof is on, not gonna be fun to do 10 feet in the air.

[mlammerhirt]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ondura-4-ft-x-6-58-ft-Corrugated-Asphalt-Roof-Panel/3010612&ved=2ahUKEwizhuXpirPjAhVKCM0KHTViAsAQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw3hmVtVFWVyELn6mSR6qhUG
 
I used this for the roof.....  Not a gigantic fan.  Glad I had some rubber sealant to repair a couple holes.  Stuff rips pretty easy.  Did like the foam filler for the ridges though.  Roof is on, not gonna be fun to do 10 feet in the air.

Was going to use the same material on the box blind I am building.......what caused the tares?? Also how to you fasten the foam ridges to the sheeting on the roof?


Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[UpStateRedNeck]

58 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

Was going to use the same material on the box blind I am building.......what caused the tares?? Also how to you fasten the foam ridges to the sheeting on the roof?


Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

One tap too many with a hammer will punch a hole in it, only hapoened once, was really careful after that.

 

The foam ridges you can buy for it, I just tacked them to the frame, laid the roof over top.  Worked out good because I could see where the troughs were going to be so it lined up with the frame.

[TACC]

I dont have any experience with this might be a tad heavy, I use normal metal roofing, works great

Was going to use the same material on the box blind I am building.......what caused the tares?? Also how to you fasten the foam ridges to the sheeting on the roof?


Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[mlammerhirt]

I dont have any experience with this might be a tad heavy, I use normal metal roofing, works great


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

That stuff is on sale for 20.00 a sheet.....by any chance do you know what a sheet of metal runs?
I did see the asphault stuff at Lowe's and it was pretty light and seems like it would be quieter in the rain....what's your experience with the sound of the rain hitting a metal roof while hunting.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[TACC]

Not trying to be a wiseass but it is very soothing to me, it does not affect my ability to hear because inside the "shanty" I can't hear deer walking within 20 yards of me when it is not raining. Also the advantage of the metal is with the roof angled the snow, it does not collect. It slides off.

Additionally it does not spook the dear when it's raining because they are used to the sound from the shanty being there all year round.

That stuff is on sale for 20.00 a sheet.....by any chance do you know what a sheet of metal runs?
I did see the asphault stuff at Lowe's and it was pretty light and seems like it would be quieter in the rain....what's your experience with the sound of the rain hitting a metal roof while hunting.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[mlammerhirt]

Not trying to be a wiseass but it is very soothing to me, it does not affect my ability to hear because inside the "shanty" I can't hear deer walking within 20 yards of me when it is not raining. Also the advantage of the metal is with the roof angled the snow, it does not collect. It slides off.

Additionally it does not spook the dear when it's raining because they are used to the sound from the shanty being there all year round.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Awesome....what's a sheet of metal cost?

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

[wolc123]

3'

[TACC]

I honestly don't have any idea, since I bought a bunch extra when I put a metal roof on my camp and garage.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[Dinsdale]

14 minutes ago, mlammerhirt said:

Awesome....what's a sheet of metal cost?

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

Imperial 5 rib runs about $3- 3.25/ ln. ft. (its 3' wide, so about a buck a square foot) in colors. Often you can get white as the cheapest a bit less. (plus cost of proper fasteners)

[UpStateRedNeck]

I would have done metal, except the sound factor.  I get that the deer would be used to it, but Id prefer it quiet as possible .  

[UpStateRedNeck]

Structure is done, once it's in the field I'm going to have another hundred or so screws to put in to tie it all together.

Was thinking of putting a brown coat of paint on it, then a gray in a tree branch pattern to break up the outline.  

[UpStateRedNeck]

Mocked up the camo in MS paint, should do the job?

[GreenDrake]

I used Grey colored stains on my last 2 blinds snd they blended in best in the fall. I had great luck with the pvc corrugated roofing. Cheap and have lasted 8 years on some stands. I screwed them with roofing screws 

[UpStateRedNeck]

16 minutes ago, GreenDrake said:

I used Grey colored stains on my last 2 blinds snd they blended in best in the fall. I had great luck with the pvc corrugated roofing. Cheap and have lasted 8 years on some stands. I screwed them with roofing screws 

I'm thinking top half will be more gray, probably add some pine green to it.  Going right in that brushy stuff between that buck and doe.

[GreenDrake]

Unless you already purchased the poles, I would never go less than 12 feet now. That 2 feet makes a difference especially if you have some browsing does close by.....less apt to see you if they look up. I've been busted too often in the 8 and 10 foot stands. Ive slowly converted most to 12 feet. Just my opinion. Sucked going through all the work then finding out it was a bit too low.

[UpStateRedNeck]

19 hours ago, GreenDrake said:

Unless you already purchased the poles, I would never go less than 12 feet now. That 2 feet makes a difference especially if you have some browsing does close by.....less apt to see you if they look up. I've been busted too often in the 8 and 10 foot stands. Ive slowly converted most to 12 feet. Just my opinion. Sucked going through all the work then finding out it was a bit too low.

Thanks!  Yeah I'd planned on the 12 footers.  Should have just 1 more run to home Depot left, just for the 4x4's, bolts, screws, cross braces and lag bolts.  You use structural screws or lag bolts for the cross braces?

Going to try and get it painted this week, then wait for the windows to come in.  Once the windows are installed,  take apart the roof + 4 walls, install the brackets to the base, then add the 4x4's.  At that point it will be time to get it loaded up and out to the property.

 

Still in the fence about sinking holes for the legs.  How does the thing not shift and frost heave if you don't bury legs?

In the field, you put the legs/4x4's on, cross brace it, then use a quad + tractor to flip it upright?

 

Thanks again for all the help Greendrake, probably saved me alot of mistakes!

[GreenDrake]

I place the base on the ground with the top side down. Then slide poles in the holders and put on cross-braces. I used treated deck boards for cross braces as you can place them on the same side of the posts and they are flexible enough bypass each other in the middle. I use structural deck screws to secure them. Once the braces are on I tip it down....with the front of the base and front legs down on the ground....place them where you want them to be when erect,,,then I just lift the base and walk it up. You can usually move each leg around to its final spot. I then level it by digging under the posts until it is level. Once level, tether it tightly. Then I carry the wall sections up and secure them to the base and each other. I have only had one stand blow over as it was in a high wind area and not properly tethered. Piece of cake and no machinery needed. I build the ladder once it is all in place b/c you will get the proper length, etc in the event the ground is uneven. I can now erect one in less than an hour.