Tuning a Prime bow

[Jeremy K]

I would also look into what setting up a bow means to your pro shop . If i take a bow to Jeff at niagara outdoors and he sets it up ,it leaves shooting bullet holes with the arrow i provide him . 

[BKhunter]

The launcher will hit if you lower it ? 

Not sure what you mean by launcher, but this is the arrow position when the rest starts dropping lower


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BowmanMike]

You can shoot into a foam target and see which way the bareshaft arrows point. No mistaken tears there. 

If you feel your form is consistent and you get the same tears you can try turning the nock of the arrow 90° and shoot again,sometimes that changes the tear quite a lot. 

The other suggestion of getting the nock height right first is spot on. You can either change the nock height or the rest height to address the low tear.

If your rest is set at centershot or close to it and you get sideways tears you can move the rest in small increments left or right,right for a tail left condition. Or you move the string itself by shimming the cam or twisting cables on a yoke if you have one.

For a tail right you want to move the string right. 

Your grip has a huge influence on bareshaft arrows. Once you are close to good bareshaft flight try torquing the bow with your grip and see what happens then.

[BowmanMike]

As far as rest timing,you generally check when the rest comes up to vertical,usually around the last inch of full draw. You can put baby powder or lipstick or whatever else you think would leave a mark on your rest on your arrows fletching and shoot some arrows. Then see if anything shows up on the rest.

My old drop away rest occasionally bounced back up after dropping and made contact with my fletching,no good.

[BKhunter]

I would also look into what setting up a bow means to your pro shop . If i take a bow to Jeff at niagara outdoors and he sets it up ,it leaves shooting bullet holes with the arrow i provide him . 

Yea this shop is now out of business so that says a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BKhunter]

As far as rest timing,you generally check when the rest comes up to vertical,usually around the last inch of full draw. You can put baby powder or lipstick or whatever else you think would leave a mark on your rest on your arrows fletching and shoot some arrows. Then see if anything shows up on the rest.
My old drop away rest occasionally bounced back up after dropping and made contact with my fletching,no good.

So my rest is fully up with about 9 inches of draw length to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jeremy K]

What are the clearance issues with lowering the rest? 

[BKhunter]

32 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

The launcher will hit if you lower it ? 

No the launcher does not fall forward, it is a vapor trail drop away rest that gets pulled straight down. The more I ask questions I think I'm gonna be tuning this bow forever. Now I am not sure if the rest is timed properly as it is all the way engaged up with roughly 9 more inches of draw pull so not sure if that is correct now too.

[BKhunter]

17 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

What are the clearance issues with lowering the rest? 

I guess there wouldn't be if my nock point doesn't change right? it would just change the way the arrow sits at full draw?

[Jeremy K]

13 minutes ago, BKhunter said:

No the launcher does not fall forward, it is a vapor trail drop away rest that gets pulled straight down. The more I ask questions I think I'm gonna be tuning this bow forever. Now I am not sure if the rest is timed properly as it is all the way engaged up with roughly 9 more inches of draw pull so not sure if that is correct now too.

If you can move the rest down slightly i would give that a try , go like 1/16 or 1/8 an see how the tear looks. 

Edited April 20, 2020 by Jeremy K

[BKhunter]

6 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

If you can move the rest down slightly i would give that a try , go like 1/16 or 1/8 an see how the tear looks. 

Thanks! Any idea on the timing question I am having above. To me it looks like my rest is fully engaged with roughly 9 inches of pull left in my draw cycle.

[The_Real_TCIII]

53 minutes ago, BKhunter said:

I was looking at this and if I lower the rest I will have clearance issues I beleive, so I may need to raise my nock point. Unfortunately the shop burned the ties down pretty good so it looks like D loop pliers and D look materials need to be ordered unless you guys think regular needle nose will work and I can reuse what they tied again?

Sometimes you can twist the string nocks and loop and theyll ride up and down on the serving, like a bolt on threads

[The_Real_TCIII]

2 minutes ago, BKhunter said:

Thanks! Any idea on the timing question I am having above. To me it looks like my rest is fully engaged with roughly 9 inches of pull left in my draw cycle.

thats way too much it should come up in the last 1.5" give or take. Unless its different for limb driven?

Edited April 20, 2020 by The_Real_TCIII

[BKhunter]

12 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

thats way too much it should come up in the last 1.5" give or take. Unless its different for limb driven?

I think from what I am reading limb driven is different

[Jeremy K]

Who hooked the string for the rest to the cam axle? 

[The_Real_TCIII]

Was this bow supposedly tuned by the shop? If so have you shot it at distance? Does it group well? Is your flight good? Are you using properly spined arrows? There are a lot of factors but dont get overwhelmed, you eliminate them one by one. Its not difficult and you got a nice bow and the right tools

[The_Real_TCIII]

1 minute ago, Jeremy K said:

Who hooked the string for the rest to the cam axle? 

Great question, isnt that what that brush looking thing on the limb is for? Also whats in that flask?

[Jeremy K]

9 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

Great question, isnt that what that brush looking thing on the limb is for? Also whats in that flask?

I'm kind of learning as we go here ,watching videos and reading but that brush looks exactly like the piece the the cord ties around and is typically in the correct spot just in front of the cam. 

[The_Real_TCIII]

2 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

I'm kind of learning as we go here ,watching videos and reading but that brush looks exactly like the piece the the cord ties around and is typically in the correct spot just in front of the cam. 

[Jeremy K]

It's probably timed correctly ,the cord seems to start working really early in the cycle from what i can tell.  I'm still curious if he can get that rest lowered a little bit and retry on the paper. 

[The_Real_TCIII]

1 hour ago, Jeremy K said:

And keeps us all safely away from each other. 

I am deeming us essential, Ill pick you up in 45 and we will head to Massapequa.

[Jeremy K]

8 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

I am deeming us essential, Ill pick you up in 45 and we will head to Massapequa.

I hope you know where that is ,i've never even heard of it. 

[BKhunter]

14 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

Who hooked the string for the rest to the cam axle? 

Bow shop....The one which is out of business......Think this was just a piss poor job. This is why I want to do all my own work, but so lost.

[BKhunter]

14 minutes ago, The_Real_TCIII said:

Great question, isnt that what that brush looking thing on the limb is for? Also whats in that flask?

lol eagle rate bourbon

[BKhunter]

9 minutes ago, Jeremy K said:

It's probably timed correctly ,the cord seems to start working really early in the cycle from what i can tell.  I'm still curious if he can get that rest lowered a little bit and retry on the paper. 

I will try lowering the rest and give it another shot.