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Tree Stands, traditional wooden ones on tree's of 2 or more?


TheHunter
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I now am physically challenged bad leg and no longer can get into tree stands. But I use to always make them between 3 trees. It makes larger stand and since you are in between the trees you do not have a large outline. I also like that you can build a seat be using two trees and using 2 x 4 and then a piece of plywoods. Nothing like having a good seat to wait out game. Just make sure you tie yourself in so you do not take a nap and find this out as you fall out of the stand...

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I have two stands I built from scrap 2x4' & 4x4's.

The platforms are frames about 24" x 32", with 2x4 runners. I brace the platforms with 4x4's at a slight angle like a ladder stand. The ladder part is actually 2 4x4's sandwiched at the ends by 12" 2x4's and lag bolts. So it's roughly 16' off the ground. I use screw in steps on the 4x4's up to the platfrom. And a concrete post holder on the ground. Up top some screw in hooks and a chain, could use a ratchet to I suppose. No nails, put them all together with an 18v screw gun. And a ratchet for the lags.

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I put up a 3' X 4" pressure treated stand in Geneseo about 15 years ago . I shot my 1st ever buck with a bow out of the stand . It's 18' up and between 3 big limbs . About 3 years ago , a tree dropped between 2 of the limbs and crushed the stand and broke the ladder . Of all the places for that to happen , it had to fall where it did !  weird.gif

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One thing that should be remembered when using more than one tree to hold a stand, is that all year long, each one of those trees is doing its own thing and swaying in the wind and not always together. That constant pushing and pulling on nails will snap them eventually. I've had it happen. Nails do not hold up well against fatigue forces so it is always good to check all areas of the stand every year.

The only exception that I have ever seen was a stand I built out of pressure treated 2"x8" which were held to the trees with heavily galvanized 5/8" diameter lag-screws. That stand is going on it's eighth year and shows absolutely no sign of anything breaking or coming apart. I have reached the point where I don't use treestands at all anymore, but I will guarantee that that stand will be there long after I'm gone, and may even outlast the trees that it is fastened to.

Doc

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Doc --- I have had nails pull out or break in the past . That I did to fix it was nail short pieces of 2 X 6 's to the trees for the base of the stand to rest on and nail and or cable the stand to one of the tree trunks . I even nail a 2 X 6 to a 2 X 6 to build it up . This lets the tree trunks sway a bit and the base slides on the 2 X 6 's .  And yes , I check things out before climbing into the stand .

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eddie, thats a good idea.  In the past we put band iron around the base, but I might try your idea of the 2x6's.  Did you put them above and below the base then put one over it? Figured that might work to trap the wood in place secure, but let it slide.

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Doc --- I have had nails pull out or break in the past . That I did to fix it was nail short pieces of 2 X 6 's to the trees for the base of the stand to rest on and nail and or cable the stand to one of the tree trunks . I even nail a 2 X 6 to a 2 X 6 to build it up . This lets the tree trunks sway a bit and the base slides on the 2 X 6 's .  And yes , I check things out before climbing into the stand .

That sounds like a good solution.

Doc

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About 4 years ago, I sold 4 wooden ladder stands that I had built and used for a few years.  One was 12' high and the others were 15'.  The 12' high one had a larger platform and wider ladder. It was more comfortable and more stable.  The 15' high ones were smaller mainly for the weight reduction but still large enough to provide a decent amount of room when standing up.  I used strap-to-the-tree seats with these stands. 

The design was pretty nice actually.  For the ladder rungs, I dado cut, glued and screwed them into the 2x6" ladder sides.  It was much stronger and safer than just screwing the rungs onto the sides.  The platform itself was made from tongue and groove flooring.  The framing was also 2x6" and all joints were dado cut.  All wood except the tongue and groove was pressure treated lumber. Large bolts held the two ladder rungs together and to the platform.  I cut a v-notch back piece, wrenched in 4 bolts, cut the bolt heads off and ground them down to points so they grabbed the trees better.  Then I used two solid eye hooks on each side for ratchet straps.  Once these stands were affixed to the tree, they absolutely did not move one inch! 

These are the only pics I have of one of them.

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Just a side note: Getting these hefty wooden stands into place is easier said then done. If you can use a climber or ladder to position a pully off a branch to help hoist it into position. Of course if you have willing manpower it makes for a better day.

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Nice job Vipertech . They look rock solid . alt=Very Happyhttp://www.downsouthhuntingforums.com/images/smiles/dancing_b06.gif[/img]

I put together a home made stand several years ago that I had shot at least 6 deer out of . Anyway , it was 12' high and I had a heck of a time putting it up alone . It was about 20 years ago and I thought I was going to have a stroke getting it in the air and to the tree .

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The design was pretty nice actually.  For the ladder rungs, I dado cut, glued and screwed them into the 2x6" ladder sides.  It was much stronger and safer than just screwing the rungs onto the sides.  The platform itself was made from tongue and groove flooring.  The framing was also 2x6" and all joints were dado cut.  All wood except the tongue and groove was pressure treated lumber. Large bolts held the two ladder rungs together and to the platform.  I cut a v-notch back piece, wrenched in 4 bolts, cut the bolt heads off and ground them down to points so they grabbed the trees better.  Then I used two solid eye hooks on each side for ratchet straps.  Once these stands were affixed to the tree, they absolutely did not move one inch! 

I think I might try these... After talking and thinking, they look really really solid.  Maybe just add some railings after its up.  What was the size of the platform on the 12 foot high one?

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Just a side note: Getting these hefty wooden stands into place is easier said then done. If you can use a climber or ladder to position a pully off a branch to help hoist it into position. Of course if you have willing manpower it makes for a better day.

I was thinking the winch on the quad could work well?

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I think I might try these... After talking and thinking, they look really really solid.  Maybe just add some railings after its up.  What was the size of the platform on the 12 foot high one?

The stand in the picture I posted was one of the taller ones.  Its platform measured about 2.5'x3'.  So the larger 12' high stand was likely around 3'x3.5' or possibly 3'x4'.  I don't quite remember.  But if I were to build these again, I stick to a smaller size.  2.5'x3' is plenty of room. 

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This is a free standing tower that uses a cheap Cabelas popup for the top.

16' high has a 5' square deck with trap door. I use 2x material for the deck for strength. It allows for a pad lock to secure the door.

The 2x2 railing is sized to fit the pop-up, I put some foam on the corners to stop chaffing the blind. It forms a secure railing for the inside also. A tall directors style chair allows for use for a bow if needed for downward shots and better view.

Fender washers and 4 screws secure the blind to the deck, a temporary ridge pole of 3/4 emt to the roof center hub when not in use. It took 7" of wet snow last year ithout any issues. I had it up for about 4 months last year with no issues.

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By using Hemlock legs(4x6) and reclaimed 2x materials with inexpensive blind; total cost was around $225 the bulk of which was the $135 blind.

This way I also use the blind on the ground for turkey season and with out a heavy top structure no foundation was required for the wind.

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