New to reloading

[josephmrtn]

im not a big fan of SP although im sure millions of deer have been killed with them... i heard something somewhere about when you are chambering SP rounds some of the lead tends to rub off the tip and can cause erratic shooting.... totaly dont know it its true

[Lawdwaz]

im not a big fan of SP although im sure millions of deer have been killed with them... i heard something somewhere about when you are chambering SP rounds some of the lead tends to rub off the tip and can cause erratic shooting.... totaly dont know it its true

Don't sweat that. No deer walking is ever going to know your shooting at 'em with dented, chipped or even missing lead tips.

IIRC, sometimes when shooting over a certain FPS the lead tip will just melt off before it hits the mark. I'm not sure if that is a bogus claim or not, some smarter guy will chime in and set that straight, I hope.

Dinsdale, Pygmy, where are you guys when I need you!!

[Pygmy]

im not a big fan of SP although im sure millions of deer have been killed with them... i heard something somewhere about when you are chambering SP rounds some of the lead tends to rub off the tip and can cause erratic shooting.... totaly dont know it its true

I never heard that...I do know that I have shot plenty of soft points over the years that had dented, bent or deformed tips and I never could see where they shot any less accurately than any other bullets with perfectly symmetrical tips..At least within 100-300 yards..Perhaps for benchrest competition or extreme long range shooting ( beyond 300 yards) it might be an issue..

I would not be afraid of shooting any standard soft points in any normal hunting scenario...

As per the lead melting at very high velocities...I have heard that theory, but I have also heard it is a myth..I really don't know, but I don't think if that if it does occur, it affects the integrity of the bullet's terminal performance on the critter it makes contact with.

[fasteddie]

Don't sweat that. No deer walking is ever going to know your shooting at 'em with dented, chipped or even missing lead tips.

IIRC, sometimes when shooting over a certain FPS the lead tip will just melt off before it hits the mark. I'm not sure if that is a bogus claim or not, some smarter guy will chime in and set that straight, I hope.

One of the recent Deer & Deer Hunting mags had an article on "10 Hunting Rifle Myths"

One of the myths was Damaged Bullet Points Hinder Accuracy . According to the article , it doesn't .

[Dinsdale]

Don't sweat that. No deer walking is ever going to know your shooting at 'em with dented, chipped or even missing lead tips.

IIRC, sometimes when shooting over a certain FPS the lead tip will just melt off before it hits the mark. I'm not sure if that is a bogus claim or not, some smarter guy will chime in and set that straight, I hope.

Dinsdale, Pygmy, where are you guys when I need you!!

Tips don't mean $hit....dented or otherwise.

Most of the bullets I favor have lead tips.

Maybe for a serious bench guy looking for one true hole at 1000 yds.

That bullet melting stuff has been around for a long time......I have never seen a argument for it proven, but have seen some real physics numbers applied to disprove it and I think its BS.

Maybe in a 22 Loudenboomer.

[josephmrtn]

ok so that SP theory stuff is BS.... hmm yeah im gonna have to decide what to use soon here...

[Culvercreek hunt club]

I load the H4895 in the 308 (becasue of the load data for reduced recoild loads)

I use 4007SSC for the 270 and 30-06 It is a cylindrical powder but is super short cut (SSC) and it meters well.

I also trickle every charge for the rifles.

I use hornaday and Sierra game kings in the 308 and 30-06 but use a polymer tipped bullet in the auto loader 270 win because it does clip off a lot when cycling. (Dad likes pretty bullets....lol)

[josephmrtn]

i like them red or green tips too... lol yes i am prob gonna use H4895 in 308, whats w the reduced recoil? i can handle it fine... i was thinking of possibly just using one brand of powder for all the guns... hogdon prob... any thoughts on that? im starting to lean tward hornady bullets but need to do some pricing... i checked on the UPS website and it said my stuff should be deliverd by end of day today...

Edited January 2, 2013 by josephmrtn

[Culvercreek hunt club]

You will find data that will work in all 3 of your cartriges.....but may not optimize them.

i know loads are listed for IMR 4007SSC and H4895 in all 3 cartriges you are reloading.

The 308 Win I shoot is a pistol so I wanted a very accurate load without a heavy recoil until I got use to it. It is useful to have a reduced recoil load for things like youth rounds. H4895 is a powder that they have developed loads for below the minimums for normal loads. As you probably read in teh manual already there can be a danger with small powder charges below the listed numbers. The H4895 was used to avoid those dangers and make soft shooting rounds.

[Culvercreek hunt club]

http://www.hodgdon.c...Rifle Loads.pdf

They also have Trailboss reduced recoil data

http://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Trail%20Boss%20Reduced%20Loads%20R&P.pdf

Edited January 2, 2013 by Culvercreek hunt club

[josephmrtn]

wow a 308 handgun! its a TC right? actually i want higher powered loads not reduced... my gun is a soft shooter all ready being 308 plus it has a nice gel recoil pad so im good to go as far as recoil... i already have the pdf for H4895 reduced rifle loads but dont think im gonna use it... however im gonna download the trail boss one also just so i have it... one thing i noticed is all the reduced load charts say to use fedral large rifle primers, but my manual said not to, it says that cci or winchester large rifle are just as good and fedral primers are harder to handel safetly (higher explosion hazard)... is that true?? it says they did lots of testing and even showed a couple pics if i remember right....

also it said EVERY reloader if you look at the ceiling above his bench you can see the marks from exploding primers lol no matter how good you are it WILL happen it says... thats also why you NEVER EVER try to crimp a primer in farther after the powder is in!!!!!!!!!

Edited January 2, 2013 by josephmrtn

[Culvercreek hunt club]

Lee does not like the Federal primers in the Auto Prime for some reason. I have substitued CCI for any work I have done but since they can be tough to find on occasion I have reworked loads with Remington Primers As with anything is you change a component I would drop back to starting loads and work back up, looking for signs of pressure as you go..

[josephmrtn]

hmmm that must be why..... i was just on the hogdon website and downloaded several more powder charts... gonna need 2 or 3 binders just to fit em all by the time im done! lol

[Pygmy]

Hmmm... I have never had a primer detonate during reloading procedures, but I still wear my safety glasses just in case..

I have used small numbers of different primers, Remington, CCI and Alcan..I can't recall ever using Federal primers except for shotshell loading. The great majority of my loading has been done with Winchester large rifle primers.

[josephmrtn]

saftey glasses? what are they? lol

[Lawdwaz]

saftey glasses? what are they?

A great idea, that's what they are.

Get yourself some decent quality ones for when your reloading or shooting, Punk. <grin>

Edited January 3, 2013 by Lawdwaz

[josephmrtn]

so i got my reloading stuff today... i set up the 308 turret die system and it worked great, then i go to set up the 30-06 dies... i get the first one (deprime neck resize) set up and start working on the second one (full length sizing die) well as it turns out once i had it adjusted and started tightening it i forgot to lower the ram on the press... the little pin that sticks thru the primer hole caught on the shell holder as i turned it a bit trying to tighten it and DOGGONE IT!!!! it broke right off!!!! now my question is: do i need that pin??????? its NOT the one that punches the primer out and im not sure that it has any real purpose... here is a pic of the full length resizer seperate from its die ( the red line extending from the end is to show where the pin was) and heres one with it still inside and last of all here is one of the die... PLEASE HELP!!!!! its not SUPER important to have the 30-06 set up within the next few weeks but i REALLY wanna get reloading...

[Lawdwaz]

Are you using the neck die and the full length die on each case?

[josephmrtn]

yes at least that what i was planning... i dont HAVE to

[Lawdwaz]

HANG ON! You only use one or the other!

Stick with the full length die. Hide the neck die........Pull the unbroken pin out of the neck die and put it in the FL die. You will need that to decap (de-prime) all your cases.

[josephmrtn]

pull the pin??? how???

[Lawdwaz]

I'm only familiar with RCBS & Redding dies and the pin comes out after you pull the top off the die.

[josephmrtn]

woops!!!! am i talking about the full length resizer or the the neck resizer? look at the pic and tell me please... im confused.... i unscrewed the top on the one thats not broke and it looks much different how can i tell which one is the full length die??

Edited January 3, 2013 by josephmrtn

[fasteddie]

Didn't your set of dies come with instructions that show pics of the full length , sizer and seating dies ? The Lee dies do .

[Lawdwaz]

I can't tell from your pics, even if they were better quality. <grin>

Did you get a 3 die set? If so, it would/should include a neck die (ND), full length (FL) die and a seating die. Both the ND & FL die have decapping pins on-board.

If it is a two die set, does it have the ND or FL die?