Brush hogged fields

[Single_shot]

This is what I have to work with. There's more than what the pics show because of the knolls etc. Would it be ok if the areas were plowed/disc and then plant? Do I have to use a weed killer,would cost a fortune. What should I plant in full sun. I would rather something I just need to plant 1 time vs every year. Should I plant all or just some of it. Should I leave it alone? I was also thinking that maybe I could have a local farmer come and plant corn if he feels it's worth it to him.....and then leave some standing for the rest of the year,or split the area up a little etc. There's already a bunch of good apple trees that produce along the hedge row/stone wall and they are real good eating green apples. Just not sure if I should do food plot/plots or let it be? Any suggestions are appreciated.This would also be something that woild only be watered by mother nature.

[burmjohn]

Sorry no advise from me, I do not know enough about this stuff yet, however I can't wait to see how your plans turn out! Following this thread.

[Bballhunter11]

Would be happy to help just need to know your goals. Are u looking for something to hunt over and what times of the year? Or are u just looking to improve the habitat in your area with food plots? Would you be able to mow the plot? Weed killer isnt always necessary.

[Single_shot]

Would be happy to help just need to know your goals. Are u looking for something to hunt over and what times of the year? Or are u just looking to improve the habitat in your area with food plots? Would you be able to mow the plot? Weed killer isnt always necessary.

Well, a little of both if possible,attraction and overall better habitat for the deer through the winter,maybe something for the turkeys too. Early season ML to early rifle. Not sure I could mow it unless using a brush hog was ok.  It really don't have to be the whole field either,I mean,it could be many smaller sections could'nt it? Say 20'x20' sqauares? Maybe one type of planting in one and a different in another? Or just plant it all corn and then winter wheat?

[erussell]

Would you be able to mow the plot? Weed killer isnt always necessary.

I would have to respectfully disagree on the weed killer, I just started doing plots for a few yrs now so Im no expert but. 1st yr i only mowed my plots and scratched it up with a rake and then surface planted oats and winter rye in early sept. Needless to say the results were less than stellar and very little grew except weeds. The following yr I read up a little and mowed and sprayed the plot with weed killer. Then I took a reading on the PH and ended up putting down around 300lbs of lime( small plot 30yrds x 30yrds) and I only added about 100lbs of fertilizer. The results were like night and day I had a beautiful plot of rape and turnips. The only problem was that after the 1st or 2nd frost because of the small size of the plot they mowed it down in a matter of days and I never got to hunt it. This yr its going to be 3 times the size ( hopefully    ) and I plan on adding 2 more plots of equal size in other locations, if my wife lets me spend that much 

[G-Man]

Can't say for sure looking at your pictures but it looks like you have orchard grass, very tough to kill without spraying. It can be done by turning the ground disking and then harrowing it or disking it every few days for a couple of weeks. I dont think spraying will cost you as much as you think, you do not need to use a brand name like roundup, just find the active ingrediant and by a knock off. Tractor supply has several different brands. A 2 1/2 gallon jug of concentrated mix will do more than 7 acres at a cost of around 70$. As for a one time planting clover/alfalfa can have the weeds controlled in them by brushhogging. Corn would be tough without equipment, you said you have a farmer in the  area? You might have him farm the larger open areas and concentrate on the edge and smaller hidden areas, perhaps letting him do the large area for free if he works up the smaller areas for you((always good to have a farmer friend,he'll have the equipment but they don't like to leave harvestable crops (it costs a lot of money to plow and plant and harvest even more as gas prices go up!)  and he benifits as well as you!)). You don't need to mow down every field and plant it as well goldenrod fields and tall native grass fields are great bedding areas for deer and nesting areas for turkey, as well as songbirds. Of course for your own plots you might want to do a soil test, but if cash is a issue skip it just don't spend big $ for seed that may or might not grow.. try putting out oats(get them from a feed mill about 2 bushell an acre brodcast and dragged in and see how they grow cost you around 10-20$for 2 bushell last i bought some. If they seem to grow well overseed with a clover/or alfalfa mix. They will not grow as well without proper ph,and fert, but doing something is better than doing nothing.....

[NYBowhunter]

I personally never used any pesticides or weed killers on my plots only because adding chemicals to my plots is not something I wanted to do. I started out very much in the same fashion as you, in that I had an existing overgrown field that had not been mowed or taken care of in years. How I like to start a plot is to plow a piece of land and let that sit for a couple to a few months, during that time the plant matter will decompose. Then I will go in and plow the ground again, which turns and breaks up the plant matter and provides good aeration to the soil, then I disc the plot and harrow it. Before the plot is harrowed I would add my lime and fertilizer (get a soil test done to determine how much lime is needed to get your soil as close to neutral as possible and the size of your plot and what you will be planting will dicate how much and type of fertilizer is needed.) I have had great success with planting white ladino clover, which will last for many years however you will need to mow the plot to keep it healthy and weed free and palatable to deer and will neede to be fertilized each spring. So what I did was I planted half my plot in clover and chicory and leave another section open where I can turn each year and plant Brassica's i.e. turnips, rape, raddish etc....Hope this helps. Jack

[NYBowhunter]

As a note in the first picture I posted, you can see a clear line in the plot where two different plots are growing. To the right is my clover plot and to the left are purple top turnips. The clover will feed deer year round and deer dig through the snow to get at my clover. The turnips are a good late season food source and help deer through the winter.

[HUNT6246]

You might try some other varieties of apples that ripen at different times and hang onto the tree longer before dropping  That way you'd have a draw to the area at different times of the season.  Hint!!! - the deer will generally eat the sweetest one's first.

I've used Secret Spot in my woods which is much more dense than what you show.  I've had mixed results on germination.  I disked the area before and after seeding.  Used lime and fertilizer too.  You might do better with more sunlight you seem to have.  Once the clover was all eaten the deer quit coming into the grass.  This year I'm going to try different clovers, grasses from Agway, Tractor Supply etc. and see if I can get something to work out better.  Also, we have an Amish run nursery nearby and they offer wildlife apple variety packs of several apple tree types.  I'm going to see if I can get some of them growing.

[G-Man]

Looks like some of your area is mown for hay? or do you just cut it? If your going to plant small plots 20x20 be prepared to not have much make it especially if you have any kind of deer population. Corn is good if planted in a large enough area 1 acre+ maybe a half acre if racoon/deer/goose are not that populated. Buckwheat is good as a first year crop as it helps loosen the soil and deer and turkey love it!  Oats planted with clover give you the added bonus of a quick growing cereal grain (helps shade and protect the clover which is slower growing but will last 3-5 years or mor ewith proper mowing. If the area is dry try using alfalfa (deep rooted).and has the same growth durablility as clover.

[Single_shot]

Actually it's a field that's been brush hogged probably 2x a year for years and would probably make one heck of a hay field. As far as deer,there are about 8 that call the immediate area home. I suppose I should talk to a farmer or 2 and see if anyone has interest first. There's no way I can prepare this large of an area by hand.

[Bballhunter11]

Corn is good for winter feed but doesnt provide any food in the spring and winter months. if you want something you can plant in the spring and provide food for the deer from june to december i would recommend a mixture of forage and ag soybeans. Very low maintenance compared to other food plots. Disadvantage is you have to plant every year but is probably easier than mowing 5 or 6 times a year. 

[Single_shot]

You might try some other varieties of apples that ripen at different times and hang onto the tree longer before dropping  That way you'd have a draw to the area at different times of the season.  Hint!!! - the deer will generally eat the sweetest one's first.

I've used Secret Spot in my woods which is much more dense than what you show.  I've had mixed results on germination.  I disked the area before and after seeding.  Used lime and fertilizer too.  You might do better with more sunlight you seem to have.  Once the clover was all eaten the deer quit coming into the grass.  This year I'm going to try different clovers, grasses from Agway, Tractor Supply etc. and see if I can get something to work out better.  Also, we have an Amish run nursery nearby and they offer wildlife apple variety packs of several apple tree types.  I'm going to see if I can get some of them growing.

That thought crossed my mind.....maybe plant a small orchard of mixed trees, fruit and other. Would take a few years to really do anything though.

[Dave]

You might try some other varieties of apples that ripen at different times and hang onto the tree longer before dropping  That way you'd have a draw to the area at different times of the season.  Hint!!! - the deer will generally eat the sweetest one's first.

I've used Secret Spot in my woods which is much more dense than what you show.  I've had mixed results on germination.  I disked the area before and after seeding.  Used lime and fertilizer too.  You might do better with more sunlight you seem to have.  Once the clover was all eaten the deer quit coming into the grass.  This year I'm going to try different clovers, grasses from Agway, Tractor Supply etc. and see if I can get something to work out better.  Also, we have an Amish run nursery nearby and they offer wildlife apple variety packs of several apple tree types.  I'm going to see if I can get some of them growing.

That thought crossed my mind.....maybe plant a small orchard of mixed trees, fruit and other. Would take a few years to really do anything though.

Have planted  a verity of apple trees about 4 yrs ago. Not producing much,few small apples on some trees and none on others. Know of a good fertilizer to use to kick start these trees.

Dave

[G-Man]

You can fertilize the trees with 10-10-10 at the drip line ,or easier is a time released fertilizer spike that you can pick up at any nursery lot eaiser to appy and carry into the field.

[HUNT6246]

If you decide to plant fruit trees, you might want to cover up the area around the base of the newly planted trees with loose leaves or grass.  When I planted fruit trees in my woods, the coyotes/ foxes seemed to think that some other critter had buried something there.  When I checked my trees, some had been dug around and damaged.  A little camo with loose leaves solved the problem.

[Single_shot]

OK...for the tree way of thinking,what would be the better way to go? Apple,Pear.....and or? How about bushes? For deer/turkey etc.? I'm trying to get ideas from ALL aspects of this so I can do it ONE time and do it correctly. So ALL input is wise here. If anyone feels that I have'nt  listened,believe me,,,,,I truely am. I read each and every one's comments more than 1 time. I'm good with a home garden..lol , but I think this is different and respect all comment. I thank everyone who comments here.

[Fantail]

You can fertilize the trees with 10-10-10 at the drip line ,or easier is a time released fertilizer spike that you can pick up at any nursery lot eaiser to appy and carry into the field.

I have seen these spikes at Central Tractor. From what I have read & understand they are very usefull for established apple / trees that seem to have petered out.

[G-Man]

Using fert. spikes and pruning does wonders for old trees!!!

[G-Man]

For apple trees look for semi dwarf or full size trees you will need at least two as some need to cross pollinate, try to get trees that yield early ,mid, and late as well as late and early polinaters, the bonus of apples are you can eat them yourself!!    Don't forget crabapples as well but make sure they are fruit producers many that are raised now are ornimental and do not produce fruit.  Look at the national arbor association tree book for kinds(varieties) but buy local as they are larger(especially if you can buy bare root vs potted bare root are cheaper) and are usually hardy to our climate. Pears are great but tend to drop in sept early oct our season isn't open yet(maybe it will be oct 1 soon). For bushes try to stay with native winterberry or highbush cranberry planted on the outside edge of pine/spruce are great for grouse,deer and turkey. The invasive choke cherry and autumn olive produce quickly but will spread and in my opinion can and will be an obnoxious thicket that will be extremely tough to erradicate,natives are much easier to controll. You may also look into hybrid chestnuts (chinese/american) they are extremely fast growing and will produce bushells of nuts in about 5-10 years and unlike oak they flower in july every year and therefore miss the frosts that can wipe out acorn and apple production for the year. The Nwtf has them called sweethart chestnuts (blight resiatant, or you can buy pure american (they will be killed by the blight) from the state/county in your area,  they are not cheap. and i recommend putting 2"x4"x5'welded(not chicken wire as the deer will push it right into the tree to browse it) wire fence around them to keep deer from browsing and rubbing on them untill they are large enough(of course i took my fence off my largest chestnut last year 8"in diameter in 12 years only to have a bear climb it and scar it all up), same for any apple trees or fruit trees you plant. You may want to create small orchard of 5-10 trees in various areas rather than one large one. Most importantly the earlier you plant them the less likely they will shock mid to late april is best, as we still get spring rains frequently.(plus its a good time to scout for turkey and hunt for sheds!)

[growalot]

I see your in a car...how close to the road?...and actually in yrds how big is the area?...I'm a woman and have done these areas on our place ...mostly by hand and by my self so it's seriously...not that hard...staggered plants are good...most cases lime is a MUST...and Mulberry trees and plums(prune type) are great...get ever bearing mulberry...blue berry... cherry and quince bushes are good...hazel nut bushes

some before and after pics

[Single_shot]

I'm assuming you mean a main paved road,the answer is about a half mile. The road im driving on is our private entrance road. The longest field area is maybe 200yrds or so.There are 3 fingers that run in betwixt the spruce and pine that are quite long,guessing 200FT +/- and vary in width maybe 20-30FT? Just going from my mind,have not measured anything yet. The field shown to the left is a good size field,going to say 1ac. The front right side is bigger and L shaped with 3 fingers. The pic you see here is not showing them mowed,but they are very well groomed hay type fielsd at this time. All the measurements are just guessed and approx.

[SplitG2]

Deer love those narrow strips, why not plant one in clover, and the other two brassica, oats or wr?  And plant the larger fields in apple and pear.  Adams county nursery in pa has great stock!

[Single_shot]

Deer love those narrow strips, why not plant one in clover, and the other two brassica, oats or wr?  And plant the larger fields in apple and pear.  Adams county nursery in pa has great stock!

The fingers I have marked,don't show up because of the angle(the one on the right hand side shows well). At the beginning of the 1st post here,you can see the pic of the left side finger,it shows from front angle and then from the back....the center finger is the same size or bigger. I would rather trees from a NY nursery as that is where the property is. When I get up in the spring,I'm going to video the area and will post it to the tube,will make things alot easier here,lol.

EDIT: Also I will get measurements of the areas.

[growalot]

I can't tell from the sun...is that lrg group of pine on the south or the east in the pic?....that will make a difference on what you can plant where