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Brush hog


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 Although the Long tractors failed when Escort Tractors of India pulled stakes and left this country overnight,( Montana Tractor bought what was left of the company and they failed.)  Long Manufacturing is still in business mainly making front loader and loader attachments.  Gearboxes on their UTB., Romania brands failed. Mainly because of poor heat treating. Their American branded equipment was good heavy equipment except their 3 point hitch plow.

Edited by landtracdeerhunter
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I need to get a tire foe 1 side, I tried to patch it but the hole is in the side wall and patches don't hold. I guess the sidewalls stretch and the patch just keeps losing it's seal. It's a 205-70-R14. 

I should be able to pick up a used 1, just not today.:(

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Got the tractor set up and it mowed great! Until I tried to fit between 2 trees and caught the right tire, bent the bracket out to almost perpendicular! It's supposed to be parallel! Pulled it off and took it to a guy who thinks he can bend it back. It's supposed to look like this one.

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11 hours ago, G-Man said:

damn trees... tow behinds always mow better than 3 pt as they can follow the ground better

I was looking at the bar that attaches the wheels to the brush hog and I think I should be able to reverse the hook up and that will put the wheels behind the BH not on the sides. The BH is at least 1 foot wider than the tractor on both sides, makes it difficult to mow my lanes that go through the woods. Just not sure there will be enough thread on the adjusting bar to raise and lower the BH to the right height. But it's worth trying.

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Well I reversed the wheels on the BH and gave it a try. Adjusted the height no problem, mowed fine, but when I went to turn around I must have over extended the PTO driveshaft. The outer shield pinched and bound up. I'm hoping I can replace the shield and not have to buy a new driveshaft? 

Anyone have any experience with fixing them? You probably can't see it in the picture but the inside piece now has acrump in it and the outer piece doesn't slide over like it used to.

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How do you know how long the shaft should be? I know there has to be play so that it doesn't bottom out but is there a standard? The brush hog was being used on the same type of tractor when I bought it. I assumed it was the right length. With the pto being offset on the tractor it needs a longer throw when turning to the right and a much shorter length when making a left turn.  (you can see it on the previous pics)

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make it 2 inches longer than what you have .. solid square shaft are in stock at tsc. i had extra but gave it to neighbor when he snapped his. do not buy a oblong or hollow tube one they are for spreaders.. you will twist them solid shaft is more but a lot less problems

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On 7/8/2018 at 9:32 AM, 2012_taco said:

I was looking at the bar that attaches the wheels to the brush hog and I think I should be able to reverse the hook up and that will put the wheels behind the BH not on the sides. The BH is at least 1 foot wider than the tractor on both sides, makes it difficult to mow my lanes that go through the woods. Just not sure there will be enough thread on the adjusting bar to raise and lower the BH to the right height. But it's worth trying.

the only issue you would have doijg that is on uneven ground you will scalp..fortunatly where you are is flat like a pancake

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hard to tell what kind it is to me, as in slip sleeve or fitted keyed tube sliding over another. tube style you need around a 1/3 the length worth of overlap (more than 2" overlap) at whatever length your extending it to.  if it's a slip sleeve type i think it just covers the sleeve length for overlap.

if you can get it so it can be hammered back in without damaging the knuckle bearings then you can backup to it, hook up PTO, backup more, and then hook up to hitch. eventually through use it'll work out the kink/deformation.  only can turn a little and one way not the other with your offset hitch. could measure from bend to bend at knuckles, but don't want it to bottom out either or you'll break the gearbox. i'd instead get the max length you can that won't bottom out when the PTO straight (in your case turning one way slightly).  can't make them longer but can always take them apart and cut length off.

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my friend took the shaft to Niagara Implement and ended up buying a new complete driveshaft as the shield was $100 and would take a week to get it. The new shaft was $150, plus $80/hr as they were going to have to swap out the yoke at the implement end because they didn't match. Couldn't swap the yoke because the new shafts are metric? So they took the new one to a machine shop to have the keyway cut into the yoke. That was $200 extra. Turns out the BH doesn't have a keyway and the machining was totally unnecessary! Boy did we get the SHAFT!! We could have just ordered the new shield, took the damaged one off and used the old shaft without the shield until it came in. Lesson learned.

:(

The new shaft is hollow triangle shaft and the old 1 is solid squared shaft, so I assume the new 1 is not as heavy duty? although the new one is rated for more HP than the tractor has, I can't believe it will hold up as well as a solid shaft? Time will tell.

19 hours ago, G-Man said:

make it 2 inches longer than what you have .. solid square shaft are in stock at tsc. i had extra but gave it to neighbor when he snapped his. do not buy a oblong or hollow tube one they are for spreaders.. you will twist them solid shaft is more but a lot less problems

 

Edited by 2012_taco
added text.
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16 hours ago, b3h said:

Turning into a million $ bh. Is that a clutch/ adapter on the tractor or just an adapter? Is there a shear pin/bolt at the bh?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That an over running clutch. yes the BH has a bolt at the yoke connection. and you can shear it off!

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