Setting up a range in the basement

[WNYBuckHunter]

Im thinking of setting up an archery range in the basement for shooting during the winter months. I am almost certain I can get 20 yards from one end to the other, but I have to measure. Anyway, I will need some sort of backstop to put behind the target(s) so if there is a miss, the arrow doesnt hit the wall and break or ricochet in an unwanted direction. What do you think would make a good backstop? I am not going to pile some hay bales down there lol. I thought I remembered someone posting about having a short range in their basement in the past.

[Doewhacker]

I live life on the edge and shoot with out a back stop down there..lol

We use a piece of carpet streched over a wood frame at my Dad's because of a steep hill, it works but not so much if you hit the same spot twice.

[WNYBuckHunter]

I wonder if 4 or 5 pieces of carpet layered would do the trick. I could build 2 frames easy enough, put the 5 layers of carpet in between them and run bolts through to keep them held together. Hmmmm...

[Deerthug]

WNY, I found this on another forum which I saved. I was thinking of doing the same thing eventually when I find the time during off season.

------------------------------------

How to Build an Archery Backstop

I want to post this as an idea for anyone to use in constructing a portable easy to haul, set up, and use target backstop that can be used for bows, crossbows, small caliber firearms, and even to throw baseballs at if you like..

I built my own target backstop out of old materials I salvaged from two old 4 foot by 8 foot signs that were made from really good marine grade plywood, and added a few touches in the way of framing. I also added two side wheels, and a wheel in the front that can turn to make steering easier. I plan to replace all of the wheels with larger ones to make it much easier to navigate grass and soft sand and dirt. I am also considering finding a salvaged lawnmower trailer frame to mount it on. This is fairly heavy and the type of wheel you choose should be based on how much and where you plan to haul or move it.

The posts on the back act as stands to hold it level to work on when laid down. This is good for doing any maintenance to the padded interior. I stapled some rubber pads to the ends of the posts, so it does not mar any garage floor I happen to work on this on.

To do the interior I used a lot of foam padding for my first layer, then a layer of a sort of packing blanket. The next layer was a heavy duty corrugated paper board that was inside of a large box spring. I carefully removed it from the box spring and then carefully removed all of the remaining staples.

I went to Babcock's Furniture Store, and they let me have a traded in fairly new King Size pillow top style mattress for free. I carefully cut the material away from the inner springs and salvaged all of the soft material. I used this as the final layers for the inside padding of the backstop.

I built a 1 inch by 2 inch frame to fit the interior of the backstop allowing for the thickness of the layer of mattress material stapled to it. I stapled it from the back, without cutting it to size, and duct taped the remaining 12 or so inches of material flat against the back of the material.

I then screwed hooks into a wooden plate on the interior top to hang my bag target from.

When all of the interior is in place, it should produce a nicely firm but soft thick pad to catch any arrows or bolts that miss the target, and does so without the loss or damage to any arrow or bolt.

I first filled all cracks inside and out with Elastomeric Caulk and then painted the entire exterior with Acrylic Latex Exterior paint. That makes it virtually weather proof. I plan on adding some lockable doors to the front that will latch open when in use. I used a thinned down with water coat to color the old mattress material to match the exterior.

This backstop can be adapted to use as a rifle backstop or for pistols. I would imagine that using 2 BYs of at least 4 inches thick bolted together in a square of about 18 by 18 inches should easily stop a .22 or up to maybe a .270 round. I would also suggest putting a sheet of diamond plate steel behind the 2 BYs. The deeper you build this, the better it will work to stop ricochets. For a firearm only backstop, maybe a vertical box of sand at least 18 inches thick inside of a 2 by 6 inch bolted together frame and backed by a full size sheet of diamond plate steel would be advisable. Wherever a steel back plate is used it should be angled so any ricochets will go down into the ground in front of the target area.

The archery version of this can be used for high powered air rifle practice too. This makes a nice backstop for use in sighting in scopes and conventional sights too.

But the main thing it does is make it safe for practicing shooting IF it is built logically with safety in mind.

Here are some pictures of what I have so far. I will add any new ones of upgrades or additions in replies.

The interior measurements are approximately as follows:

Height = 55 inches

Width = 47 inches

Depth at bottom (pad) = 24 inches

Depth at top (pad) = 10 inches

I have not weighed it.

If you decide to build something like this, remember that this is only a suggestion on how to do it.

[Doc]

I have been shooting in my basement for decades and have gone through all kinds of different back-stop schemes. The absolute best was a 4' x 4' x 18" deep stack of corrugated cardboard held in a frame that was compressible using a couple 1/2-13 lengths of threaded rod. You shoot into the corrugations. When the center got shot out (after a couple years) I would simply pull it apart and rearrange the cardboard with the unshot ones going in the middle and the shot up ones going along the top and bottom extremes. I never had an arrow bleed through, and there was a cement block wall right behind the butt. Eventually my cardboard butt got donated to my outdoor target and has been out there in a little open sided shed for a couple decades now soaking up arrows just as reliably as it did in my basement.

However, for the basement in recent years, I got even lazier and simply set a commercial foam "Block" target down at the other end of the basement. That cement block wall behind the target gives you a little more incentive not to miss.....lol. I don't miss!

By the way, without knowing the layout of your basement, I have to mention the safety aspect relative to any staircases or doors. I have a dog-chain thing that I snap across the stairway at the bottom. That has several lengths of surveyors tape dangling from it just to catch anyones attention. When that is across the stairway, it is understood that we have a "HOT" situation and no one is to come down. The stairway is midway through the flight of the arrow.

[mxsmitz201]

I have an 8' x 8' back stop on some offroad caliber castors that i stacked hay bales on for outdoor use. said to heck with that ill just buy a target (similar to the one in the pics). but now i have a 60 ' x 40' pole barn with AMPLE room for an indoor archery range that I want to use the backstop in. those plans just got the fire burning inside my head for some sweet plans!!!

[RifleSharpShot]

Sounds pretty cool!

[Dom]

WNY, I found this on another forum which I saved. I was thinking of doing the same thing eventually when I find the time during off season.

------------------------------------

How to Build an Archery Backstop

I want to post this as an idea for anyone to use in constructing a portable easy to haul, set up, and use target backstop that can be used for bows, crossbows, small caliber firearms, and even to throw baseballs at if you like..

I built my own target backstop out of old materials I salvaged from two old 4 foot by 8 foot signs that were made from really good marine grade plywood, and added a few touches in the way of framing. I also added two side wheels, and a wheel in the front that can turn to make steering easier. I plan to replace all of the wheels with larger ones to make it much easier to navigate grass and soft sand and dirt. I am also considering finding a salvaged lawnmower trailer frame to mount it on. This is fairly heavy and the type of wheel you choose should be based on how much and where you plan to haul or move it.

The posts on the back act as stands to hold it level to work on when laid down. This is good for doing any maintenance to the padded interior. I stapled some rubber pads to the ends of the posts, so it does not mar any garage floor I happen to work on this on.

To do the interior I used a lot of foam padding for my first layer, then a layer of a sort of packing blanket. The next layer was a heavy duty corrugated paper board that was inside of a large box spring. I carefully removed it from the box spring and then carefully removed all of the remaining staples.

I went to Babcock's Furniture Store, and they let me have a traded in fairly new King Size pillow top style mattress for free. I carefully cut the material away from the inner springs and salvaged all of the soft material. I used this as the final layers for the inside padding of the backstop.

I built a 1 inch by 2 inch frame to fit the interior of the backstop allowing for the thickness of the layer of mattress material stapled to it. I stapled it from the back, without cutting it to size, and duct taped the remaining 12 or so inches of material flat against the back of the material.

I then screwed hooks into a wooden plate on the interior top to hang my bag target from.

When all of the interior is in place, it should produce a nicely firm but soft thick pad to catch any arrows or bolts that miss the target, and does so without the loss or damage to any arrow or bolt.

I first filled all cracks inside and out with Elastomeric Caulk and then painted the entire exterior with Acrylic Latex Exterior paint. That makes it virtually weather proof. I plan on adding some lockable doors to the front that will latch open when in use. I used a thinned down with water coat to color the old mattress material to match the exterior.

This backstop can be adapted to use as a rifle backstop or for pistols. I would imagine that using 2 BYs of at least 4 inches thick bolted together in a square of about 18 by 18 inches should easily stop a .22 or up to maybe a .270 round. I would also suggest putting a sheet of diamond plate steel behind the 2 BYs. The deeper you build this, the better it will work to stop ricochets. For a firearm only backstop, maybe a vertical box of sand at least 18 inches thick inside of a 2 by 6 inch bolted together frame and backed by a full size sheet of diamond plate steel would be advisable. Wherever a steel back plate is used it should be angled so any ricochets will go down into the ground in front of the target area.

The archery version of this can be used for high powered air rifle practice too. This makes a nice backstop for use in sighting in scopes and conventional sights too.

But the main thing it does is make it safe for practicing shooting IF it is built logically with safety in mind.

Here are some pictures of what I have so far. I will add any new ones of upgrades or additions in replies.

The interior measurements are approximately as follows:

Height = 55 inches

Width = 47 inches

Depth at bottom (pad) = 24 inches

Depth at top (pad) = 10 inches

I have not weighed it.

If you decide to build something like this, remember that this is only a suggestion on how to do it.

What a great idea,This target is very cool.I think if building in basement i would build a frame out of 2x6 and use this product called foamboard inside the frame with a ply wood back,You can put carpet and you can get left over from local dealers at a good price.If i had basement i would build one.

[DeerStalker22]

we use 2 inch thick blue board that is doubled in a 5 by 5 frame, works well for a year or two than you start getting pass throughs

[Littlesunray]

in our basement we hung a wool moving quilt loosily . it works great to stop those unexpected misses. as we all know none of us miss. LOL . after a few monthes of shooting, we unhook the quilt turn it and right back at shooting. after you get too many holes, use duct tape on back side for repair.

[Fantail]

Got a CT/ Tractor Supply near you? They usually have a ton of foam blocks they give away for free. I put a 3x3 set together and just use a tiedown strap to keep them together. They will stop a broadhead.

[132 eight pointer]

I called tractor supply this past summer and was told those blocks get sent back and reused.If anyone knows about this I would love to find out.

[Littlesunray]

the one out by us here in lockport always have them and are happy to give them to you.

[WNYBuckHunter]

I have been shooting in my basement for decades and have gone through all kinds of different back-stop schemes. The absolute best was a 4' x 4' x 18" deep stack of corrugated cardboard held in a frame that was compressible using a couple 1/2-13 lengths of threaded rod. You shoot into the corrugations. When the center got shot out (after a couple years) I would simply pull it apart and rearrange the cardboard with the unshot ones going in the middle and the shot up ones going along the top and bottom extremes. I never had an arrow bleed through, and there was a cement block wall right behind the butt. Eventually my cardboard butt got donated to my outdoor target and has been out there in a little open sided shed for a couple decades now soaking up arrows just as reliably as it did in my basement.

However, for the basement in recent years, I got even lazier and simply set a commercial foam "Block" target down at the other end of the basement. That cement block wall behind the target gives you a little more incentive not to miss.....lol. I don't miss!

By the way, without knowing the layout of your basement, I have to mention the safety aspect relative to any staircases or doors. I have a dog-chain thing that I snap across the stairway at the bottom. That has several lengths of surveyors tape dangling from it just to catch anyones attention. When that is across the stairway, it is understood that we have a "HOT" situation and no one is to come down. The stairway is midway through the flight of the arrow.

Thanks for the cardboard idea, that might work. I have someone looking into large chunks of rubber conveyor belt that might work as well. The staircase is in the middle of the basement, Ill just have a sign on the door that tells people to yell down first.

[WNYBuckHunter]

deerthug, thanks for the idea. Way too big for my basement though.

[132 eight pointer]

the one out by us here in lockport always have them and are happy to give them to you.

Hmmm, I will have to try a different location.

[Red]

i go to the loacla race track and get the huge block of foam that they put around the trackso a car cant hit the cement wall. the tracks give it away this time of the year each year i usually grab a few pieces they are usually around 3'x5' almost 3 feet thick very great foam