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Everything posted by dbHunterNY
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ground venison (trimmed) and pork fat. mix in hot dog seasoning mix, snack stick seasoning mix, and high temp cheddar cheese, and water to loosen things up to mix and stuff it.
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I hate myself for saying that but it's the truth. most people can't afford hundreds of acres with 5 figure taxes when using land for just recreation. got to pull income from it with work. many don't have the desire and competence to make it work.
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you won't get a blade of grass that way. go ask their kids.
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...another thing what was Hillory Clinton's personal email address again? I've done some wrong and I need a way out but make it look like it was handled.
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...let us know when they come offer you a job and benefits. some of us are hungry and will want in. sorry. it's only fair.
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farmer (farmer's son), farmer and odd jobs as a kid (built picnic tables, mowed lawns, store clerk, etc.), farmer and grunt worker for general contractor, farmer and masonry worker, farmer and community college student, farmer and intern engineer for NYS Parks..., part time farmer and university student, part time farmer and manufacturing facility electrical engineer, and now a part time farmer and electrical engineering consultant (commercial, state, and gov construction). farming has always been in cattle and hay to sell, but now it's just hay. little money in beef. retirement completely up to me. IRAs, 401K, and non retirement accounts. nothing is matched.
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nobody who owns land only hunts on it. it has much more uses. keep an eye on county tax auctions. you may only find a couple good properties cheap in a life time but it's all about assets. paying to hunt on someone else's land gives you nothing for assets. land is one of the few things you don't see more of so there will always be a demand. just make sure it's not squeezing you tight money wise.
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I think the bottom line is recruiting more to the sport and tradition of waterfowl hunting. in any case if he didn't have to buy a stamp he'd be more willing to go with his daughter. say it takes a couple years of him not buying one. it's highly likely that at that point he'd buy a stamp to fully participate. then you'd have a couple stamps purchased for years down the road instead of the case now, which is none. youth weekends are about promoting youth to hunt. while many of you said he should just eat the cost of going with his daughter, equally, why shouldn't NYS be expected not to eat the cost of his stamp to pomote youth hunting? I'd look at it in terms of investment in future hunters that will buy stamps or tags down the road, even if he never buys a stamp.
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Nope... I agree with your logic.
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depend on taxes and how you hunt. if you're a gun hunter then northern zone continues to get squeezed. many north country whitetails held or sold properties are in western NY but have one of them as a neighbor would help the deer hunting. 100 acres if ok to begin and a good portion of timber with can be improved to hold deer. I'd lean more central to western NY.
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we have that problem in parts of 4C hunters like seeing lots and lots of deer but don't think anything about what it's doing. including when they complain about deer in the road, eating landscaping, and eating ag crops. that PA study I wonder was what type of forest? holding capacity varies a great deal even from property to property around here. was it land untouched or not enhanced? maybe the average of everything statewide (which would have a pretty large range / spread numbers wise)? one deer per 15 acres is hammering them pretty good! we usually take about 1 per 40-50 acres due to my dad's pain threshold ( due old mindset of growing up with low deer numbers) of taking too many deer. based on trail cam surveys I've done we could take a bit more than that without exceeding 33% of adult does harvested. also the percentage of doe we took that were 4.5+ yrs old were much too high to worry about over harvest. don't the know the exact percentage off hand but it was probably 70+%. no need for worry until you're closer toward 30+%.
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yea getting mild lately. snow packs going down. had a herd of deer passing through my yard and they all looked good. haven't been to the family farm I also hunt to see how they're doing out that way.
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definitely a good idea. I have a big canister of desiccant beads you recharge in the oven and another desiccant dehumidifier you plug into a wall outlet to charge, both in the same safe just different sections. all my guns are in there and it's in my dry but unfinished basement. one's not used are just in the way back. I really only use Elite T3 now for all smokeless guns and bore butter for my ML. Haven't had a problem. handle it with a rag to put it away and not your oily fingers. I'm sure it'll be fine.
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if it's parkerized don't put too much elbow grease into it.
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Montana Xtreme, Hoppe's Elite with T3, and Hoppe's Bench Rest 9 with weatherguard have all worked for me for my guns. It's important to use something that pulls away moisture instead of just seals it up. if any moisture is still in the pores of the metal or under whatever you put on it, it will still rust. Seems on muzzleloaders exposed to snowy wet late seasons the only thing that's worked to keep rust away for me to store until the following year is T/C 1000 Plus Bore Butter. I haven't used that on my other guns though. I think the metal composition of muzzleloaders might be different or something.
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for our situation timothy, brome, and alfalfa for bigger fields. we bail and sell it as well as feed the deer. corn is also there as that's the same thing. for smaller plots it's mixed clover for yield and grazing pressure. cost of planting and up keep are key on a working farm in our situation. annuals have more pull but more cost to put in the ground every year. I know it's not really the answer and context you looked for but yea.
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.... just kidding.....
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I agree with you that someone shooting your cat is wrong unless it was on their property and turned on them. also I assume it's taken care of in that it's not spraying all over their stuff. I think the point some are getting at is owners say they love their pets and crucify those that hit them with cars on accident or boot them off their porch or say shoot them. however, that situation means you don't love your cat. would you let your child play out in the road and whatever happens happens? No. If you knew dangers whether it be your neighbor said they'll shoot it or whatever, and then you ignore that, well you'd be just as guilty as the person pulling the trigger. the entitlement goes both ways in my opinion. you can let it outside but treat your pet like your kid and nobody has anything against you.
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when you find the sweet spot remember which fingers a bump out of the call fits between this will help you find the sweet spot easier just before the sun comes up when tree yelping or checking birds that should be still on the roost you found the night before.
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80 grit is pretty coarse and won't make for a smooth tone. also you'll get lots of dust that'll make things hang up. just get a green brilo pad and use a good amount of pressure. always sand in one direction and not back and forth. lift the pad and go back to the other side. start in one spot and turn the call in your hand to move to a different spot until you find the sweet spot. you should have hickory striker or something as dense unless you're using what came with it. then once it's conditioned and used a bit it'll be easier to use softer or hollow strikers for a deeper richer tone on the higher toned crystal. slate works the other way around or you'll get squeaks in the beginning. that's what I've found anyway. I carry only a green brilo pad square, custom blend hardwood striker, hickory solid striker, hollow carbon/plastic striker, deep slate, and a double sided crystal/slate.
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hills anything remotely halfway to definition of steep we walked if you couldn't carry speed over them. roll until you stopped on the hill. didn't wear upper outer layer either most of the time. found we didn't get hot or under our layers if we did things like that.
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my brother and I usually scouted on foot first. hunt a place enough times you usually know when to get off and walk slowly/hunt on through while pushing the bike quietly. depending on the trail head you can ride/coast back in to better areas and you're much less likely to see much of anything until you get there. for hauling out a deer see my other post. you're actually getting less exercise than walking in because whenever you need to pedal hard you're walking same as you normally would. otherwise you're rolling or easy pedaling. you pick and choose where you use it mostly to get to a certain spots to hunt them longer.
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it saves time mostly to get you farther back in to know spots. any steep hill you'll slow right down and walk it easy like you normally would. as long as your going down in elevation usually small hills you can carry reasonable speed and momentum to crest it and it's way faster than on foot. like it was said you aren't successful every trip. you can always go back to get the bike or double back. or you can bone it out right there and use game bags and/or a pack to haul it out. two tied together over each shoulder with connecting string between each pair across your chest and across your back for smaller deer 40-60 lbs of meat. for bigger ones you use the a pair or more of bags over the bike frame tube too and walk it all out. JB weld or weld brackets to hold the bags from sliding on the frame. I'm used a cheap mountain bike so I didn't care to mess with it or if it got lifted. I got mine on sale for $50 as a black Friday left over. imagination and think outside the box. ...clarification when I say game bags I don't mean the cheese cloth kind. I mean heavy plastic bags or similarly sealed bags. the tires will kick up mud and dust that will get on your meat if you don't. also butchering your kids pool noodles can help if you pack some out on your shoulders.
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worked for me when I hunted Darien Lake SP.