dbHunterNY

I've got a Nikon D5100 with lenses and other stuff... bought it as a package deal. I don't think it'd take it out in the rain ever though. I've got a slightly cheaper Sony Handicam for that and up in a tree. I use Muddy mounts and they seem to be solid. for cheaper arms it's good to replace washers with good Teflon ones. head rotation is more important. zoom slowly or manually if there's a lot of brush. always film video in HD. like wooly just not as skilled I usually stick to F setting/aperture priority. when you can lock in a bird or deer pics come out good. rest is slightly blurred and every one knows what you intended to shoot. as a relative beginner I feel like I've accomplished something then opposed to snapping away in Auto. I've got a DVD that's packed full of tips and how to use info for my exact camera. I'm sure there's something out there for yours. Definitely pause that thing and play. I've had it a while and still not through it. I had this PSE calendar with whitetail photos on it that had all the settings listed at the bottom of the picture. That was cool. Still figuring stuff out though and have a long ways to go.

have you used his strings? do they settle in within a handful of shots and then no peep rotation? do they wear well/last without being able to turn the peep out of place and it stays out of place? serving ends around cams and else where hold up well without separation? not being antagonistic just curious. those are some of the things I consider with strings.

Phade has a good point some have a watch battery to keep time. others capacitive storage with a slow discharge.

I think a vast majority will probably be ok. it was a bumper crop for acorns and other mast this past season. Little and or later born ones might not all make it. Seeing lots of deer lately with this mild weather. They wouldn't move so much if they were on empty.

you heard that in the Outdoor News?

a lot of cameras out there are the same way. idk how many times I sent back WGI cams. eventually I got all new ones. I've got one left that still works. So far Bushnell Trophy Cam HDs have been bullet proof for me. If you want something to last forever go with Reconix but know you're paying $500 per cam. Many companies go through others for cameras and that's their down fall. they aren't a cam company. Primos otherwise for game calls is extremely good in my opinion.

we had a Henry 45-70 lever gun for the pull tab game. a lot of people liked that one.

cheap fireworks

I most definitely can't but maybe he'll chime in and send you a PM idk.

you'll lose as much money selling a couple firearms compared to sending cash on another modest sized safe.

stainless Savage in 308... it's a nice gun.

only because it'd be cool to hunt with I'd say a 338 Edge or Lapua. 416 would be cool but not sure it's something you'd hunt with.

I very much agree it makes conducting them a big pain, not using bait. I've had to do things like run cameras on multiple ends of a primary plot getting hit. I've put them on later yielding mast trees (while collecting mast under a few others at the same time to eliminate competing sources). I haven't released some trees that need it because of this and some spots aren't really huntable. info does help when including it with harvest data though. if I have time doing both pre and post season surveys helps but not sure it's worth it at that point.

if I told you he was a school teacher up north and RangerClay is his SASS nickname that he uses in those competitions, would that alleviate your suspicion? he and his youth daughter, mentioned in the OP, do that when they're not out hunting.

yea i'll have to play around with the wide zone versus narrower zone setting with where I put it. not sure what difference it makes. for field edge sets I usually throw the ones I've got in time lapse unless I'm over a scrape. i'll have to give myself a good couple weeks of brewing and tinkering if I use it for a spot to do a survey.

Anyone like and use the Cuddeback Long Range IR C2? Just picked one up at a banquet. Don't have any experiences with Cuddeback cams but always heard they're good. 20MP pics, time lapse, wide zone detection, 30+ yard IR range, quick trigger speed.... seems like a good cam I can do a lot with like trail camera surveys and in season monitoring.

Benelli Supernova, one of the compounds, and at some point maybe the recurve.

for your banquet I think presale is the only way to get the QDMA "Gun of the Year". we had a couple at our banquet kicking themselves for not getting presale raffles.

my 30-06 has a short throw bolt, top tang safety, and every thing else I can operate without thought or looking. I've taken couple bucks in timber running doe. first shots sealed their fate and the second were within 1-3/4" from the first for both deer, around 75-100 yards, separate seasons, and free handed with maybe an elbow or forearm against a tree in the stand. with a stout 180+ grain bullet it's got enough horsepower out to 300 yards (if it's got a little extra in the case you're looking at over 2000 FP of energy at that distance). I don't know of any caliber able to be held that will anchor a bear every time. unless I got equally comfortable with a bigger caliber gun the first stuff I typed makes me feel warm and fuzzy. if it came after me and I have to look to operate the gun I'm dead. if I have to think about it, then I'm still dead. if I can't shoot it well to put the bullet were it needs to, then I'm probably still dead. don't know anyone good enough shot in bear country to trust them completely with my life otherwise. I've been told the same applies to Africa also, despite I'll probably never go there.

just had our banquet this weekend. seemed to go well. Hope everything goes well for yours.

Don't have experience with Primos cams but that's a good deal.

it's all relative to the effective range of what it is with the projectile used; bow or gun. I think when you get to a point where the weapon has less KE then it's more critical of the projectile. More projectiles may have been used or in theory and practice won't work as well for that weapon with limited KE and range. so it's more of a hand waving and generalized statement commonly made about certain weapons for certain game despite they'll still work. for example hunting cape buffalo with a recurve or elk with a .243 win. bows aren't much different than guns in that you still need penetration. most people use KE in the wrong context. Contrary to physics, when it comes to KE you should think of it actually as potential energy used for penetration, instead of energy in motion. then depending on the projectile, arrow or bullet, you'll have more or less energy lead to penetration versus damage due to shock or damage due to cutting. ...that's my take anyway.

I'm not a waterfowl hunter. I know only a little about this stuff. I understand it's a Federal stamp, the cost is minimal, and where it goes is a good thing. ...the points of just buying it are pretty clear and driven rather hard at this point. the OP is a teacher that's given back plenty. if he wasn't inclined by ANOTHER stamp then I'm sure there are others out there that did the same. so I ask the questions because I'm curious.... does anyone know the rules of what determines if you need to buy a stamp? I only thought you had to if you're hunting. if he's just along for the ride, is he still required under Fed rules or is the state just saying pony up money for this just because? ...if it's Federal rules his letter being unanswered would be understandable. if it's state dictating so then I'd think he deserves a reason.

this is my understanding. although I'm not sure about what acreage the exemption (reduction in taxes) is applied to. I can get the answer but don't remember right now. you don't have to lease it and make 10k the farmers income picks that up. it's much easier route than trying to file and claim you are a farm yourself. if you go that route it'll help to have another farmer look at it with you. they could answer lots of questions to determine if you can successfully lease it or just let a farmer use it to keep it as field and for exemption. too hilly, ledge ridden, size and shape not make it a PITA, access wide enough, etc. are all questions they can answer in a half an hour that'd take you days to sort out. this is isn't really a determining factor to purchase though just something to think about. to get back. also if you've got access for farm equipment you very well may have access to sections of woods to have parts logged. same thing applies to a logger looking at it with you... just don't do it with the selling party around and make sure you're not slowing down the process for the seller if it's on or going to be on the market. while you're screwing around someone else could buy it from under ya.

enough tillable used acreage, here it's 10, and you get an ag exemption. logging if you trust the person won't destroy your woods. also through county and state there's different programs you can do to get money back (like habitat or farm infrastructure). some are straight up with little put in like CRP or certifying as wetlands. others are capital improvement stuff requiring equipment. if you have or know someone with the equipment like a backhoe, dozer, etc. to do the work yourself you can make out with a little kick back. they're estimated to out source everything as most don't have those resources. if you have river frontage it's possible to subdivide some off for public fishing access.