dbHunterNY

No experience on one. I know my grandpa had one at one time and maybe still does. He's picky about tractors. Kioti to be exact.

Welcome. I think you may just need a previous bow license like the others said.

Had that happen to me too. Bear treated me well though and sent replacement as mine was newer. You should've felt it shooting not quite right before it actually delaminates. At least that's what happened to me.

I'll figure it out when the time comes. Until then set stands for different winds in spots I think will work.

Any head will do its job if you do. The reapers work very well for the fold back style of mech head.

If you shoot you'll get target panic. Heck most archers I see don't touch the trigger until they smack it with their index finger. many ways to help it. Never tried the spring to keep my skills falling off deep end. Ive shot one though and it will work as I said in my opinion. big can of worms this topic. Try to shoot as many days as possible. Even if only a handful of good shots a day. If you go long without shooting keep in mind it'll be back more. So when you shoot take that extra care to not puck away at trigger. Start at close distance or larger targets during practice session. Then end with smaller targets which can bring out your troubles more.

Land is hard to come by. Coops like this are the future. It builds a relationship with your neighbor so you can recover that deer that died over the fence and allows you not to feel obligated to shoot the first thing that may come across your small tract of land. You be a deer paradise on a little piece of what you call home. Often big tracts of land get divided with each passing generation and that is the inevitable truth.

TRU ball makes an adjustable lanyard for your wrist that attaches to release so it's not nearly as restricting as a Velcro or buckle wrist strap. Don't even feel it but it's there to catch the release if need be.

yea there is I've done it! Light trigger and you set it off accidentally when grabbing it in cold with gloves.

The answer release works with a spring as part of the sear that moves a safety stop out of the way eventually. You're already shooting a Scott so why not order their spring trigger for your release. If you try to punch it the trigger/spring will just flex and not set off the sear in many cases unless you're really punching it bad.

Some put up coop signs on their border but that's discouraged. If you're a part of it you know who's involved. You don't need to tempt poachers by dangling the sign in front of them. Just post property and that's it.

One thing we were told to do first is post all sides As a landowner in the coop. Then something to implement are passes/hang tag. you leave on your vehicle dash that say who you're hunting on and who you are. I the game warden sees a truck parked along the road on the back side of your property with no tag they can hangout or comeback to see what the deal is. They're now protecting your land for you and in some cases have a list of who hunts a property. These are some things some coops or landowners do.

With this the land owner retains all the power. They pay the taxes so why shouldn't they? Hunters crossing boundaries is no different than before. Just because you're a coop member doesn't mean you get to roam free. If someone keeps trespassing it's for the game warden to handle if talks between neighbors don't work. Generally it's not an issue as neighbors respect each other more, communicate more, and many times become closer friends when in a coop.

Any restrictions for buck size has to be excepted by all of at least meeting in the middle to be fair. The focus is to protect 1.5 and most 2.5 yr old busk for herd balance and efficient quick rut to help all deer through the winter and start better off the following spring. Some neighbors within the coop might be at a level to get bucks to 4.5+ but that's not feasible or required for the coop as a whole as some May know.

Signing up is basically only saying hey I agree with what you're trying to do here and I'll work with ya. None of it is legally binding. No fines for breaking the rules. We're going to leave rule breakers to the mercy of the land owner who's rep they just tarnished. If land owner is the culprit we as a group will talk with them to see why they are doing so. If both sides can't come to terms then. They'll be told they aren't considered as part of the group but are welcome at any point they want to change. Then the only correspondence they'll get is pictures of great bucks and things happening within the co-op they chose not to be apart of.

TRU ball makes some that have a hook to load quick and you can also get a strap for them so you won't drop it when that buck shows up.

You're right sticking to one with a thumb trigger opposed to a hinge or pull weight style. As said anchor will be different compared to using index trigger release. Both can be punched and shot in correctly. Best to choose one and stick with it even if you have a bow set up for each.

It's all been said. 308 design able to shore more accuracy than 3006. That said you're not building a rifle and probably can't shoot that well to tell. talking a very slight difference. with tactical and ammo frenzy now 308 is hard to find and 3006 is on every shelf. I've got two 30-06 and no 308 and I'm not bothered in the slightest.

No problem. On another note for field points I've just tried out Allen fat heads and they seem to work well. You can get them at Walmart.

Goldtip expedition hunter, Easton nemesis, Easton bloodline, beman ics hunter, muddy fps, and muddy impact are some I'd look at keeping what I previously said in mind.

Different spined arrows are normally the same cost for the same model arrow shaft. It depends on what broad heads you shoot and out of what bow. Faster bows can shoot a heavier arrow with less drop to give you more penetration. Mechanical heads don't require as straight of a shaft for the same accuracy as with larger profile fixed blade heads. Easton has been around and makes a great selection of arrows with various weights and straightness. I've been shooting their arrows for over a decade. I also shot goldtip at one point and those are good. Haven't tried them but have heard good things about muddy arrows.

Yea they are pretty affordable. Last set I got for one of my cousins was from 60x.

Good to hear your son has taken to bow hunting.

The QDMA based presentation is clear and concise. Many don't need to hear it more than once. So I'd split the picnic into those already commited so they don't get bored and can just sign up and chat.

...I remember that little pull weight screw was pretty soft.