dbHunterNY

I could be in on that. nobody at my parent's farm really shoot doe so we've got some that are dried up without fawns and putting on weight to the point they look like a herd of cattle.

make him do community service until he dies. lol looks like he went for quantity instead of quality the second time.

the only carry gun in the safe is Beretta PX4 Storm Compact in 9mm. other goods that aren't really expensive would be Glock 19 or Sig P250 compact.

I've shot CCI subsonic segmented hollow points, CCI "Chootem" mini-mag hollow points, CCI mini-mag round nose, CCI Stingers, CCI Velocitors, CCI Tactical AR... (I think that's all of them)... that are all 22LR rounds and all have shot with great accuracy (most single holed at 50 feet) and cycled out of my Ruger Mark III pistol. not sure which exact one you've got but I'm sure it's great.

buy a Nikon with metal threads that use sealed watch type batteries. lol I've never had issues with my Nikon Riflehunter 1000. I don't like the mineral oil idea or putting anything liquid into it, but I can see if you're really careful it'll just say with the threads. culvercreeks idea is good but again great care is needed. I don't know.

I've got more Primos stuff than I know what to do with it all. Up roar is a good call that still has good sound like the original roar. I've got the blood hunter and honestly don't use it much. it makes blood pop out at you but around the outsides the colors don't blend as well so you can't see anything. a good "white light" flashlight is the way to go. i don't mean the super high kelvin temp bulbs or LEDs that are "blue-ish" either. I don't use Knight & hale stuff. but others have said they work good. not sure what the other goodies are.

when I first started hunting I had a duxbak camo jacket that was really warm.... sleeves are way too short and it's way too skinny for me now. lol

when it's really cold... i mean really cold.... I layer a couple vests and base layers under Walls "late season" windproof, water resistant/almost proof coveralls.

don't have enough maples all together on my parents. also I don't have any maples I think behind my house.

you should now who they are and what they stand for on more than just guns. here are reps will just about pick up a gun and join the fight if it comes down to it. lol makes my voting job easier in that sense.

nice we had lakers at the game dinner we had this past weekend.

it's really important what you typed in that last post. sounds like you're doing great. good to hear it.

I agree with Bowtoons in that a whisker biscuit is not as forgiving as a drop-away rest. plenty accurate enough if you have good follow through, especially for hunting. the design is simple but they can freeze up here in NY. The conditions you're in that would cause it to freeze will be obvious though. I hunted with one for a while, back when they first came out from Carolina archery. I'd even practice with it accurately enough out to 100 yards. tough on vanes with a max helical (twist) though. a slight offset, good vanes, and good adhesion won't yield any issues though.

I normally wouldn't agree with shipping him off to prison and if anything I truly believe the kids were safer with him there packing. his interests were messed up however I'm sure he's a good man. that said he pushed this and therefore I say lock him up and take away his guns!! hard lesson learned right there!

don't have kids yet but I got a Mossberg 500 20ga for my first. I still use it. Heck this year at the annual hunting party I cleared clay pigeon doubles out of the sky, despite being on a line full of semi-auto 12ga shooters. What was I using? That "kid gun" 500 20ga. lol they're much more modular now than they used to be too. lots of accessories to keep up with her growth. after a while of shooting with (or against) her you need some of that wine after. lol for turkeys, Remington Wingmaster HD 3" #4s shot good out of mine with a standard flush full choke that came with it too.

I was told by different self defense authorities that when using a pistol you should use a smaller flashlight you can get your hand completely around with your support hand and that has an end on/off button opposed to a rail mounted light. you can maneuver around and momentarily turn it on to scan a space. you aren't giving up your position nearly as much and you are keep your eyes dilated to see in the dark areas. also you won't inadvertently point the muzzle at a family member as with a light on a pistol rail.

I guess we're still talking about draw length and anchor points ....hhmmm. well I believe that the best way to measure draw length properly is to use the arrow with the lines or a full length shaft. the bow tech or shop pro will then have you come back to full draw and anchor at multiple points. he'll then make sure your form is correct; from behind your forearm should be in line with the arrow shaft and from the side view your forearm should look in line with the arrow shaft but actually parallel really. they will then note the length or mark the full length arrow with tape and then measure it once un-nocked. older days of longer bows used to allow that draw length to be fitted more finite that you could touch the corner of your mouth and the tip of your nose both to the string at different (anchor) points. now with shorter bows it's tough to get both so we usually call it good with just the corner of your mouth. as long as your forearm is inline with the arrow shaft it doesn't really matter. now the d-loop or release length can be fine tuned beyond the measured draw length to allow you addition anchor points of your hand or maybe release handle locked behind the corner of your jaw bone. all these "anchor points" form your "anchor" as a whole. the idea is more anchor points means more consistency and more stability in your release hand, which all leads to more accuracy or more things to realize your screwing up making you not shoot well. lol

slightly different. there's two ways to calculate it that I know of too. one way is take (wing span) / 2.5 and the other way is (wing span -15) /2, but both will be pretty close. I usually average the two ways. then anyway you do it, it's best to round down to the nearest 0.5". another note, when you measure wing span you should be stretched but relaxed and not straining hard to reach.

Did you know they've got a DVD? HAHAHA

first off I'm not a lawyer. this is what I've picked up on and think only. it basically goes back to case law and covering your own butt after the fact. Our Penal law basically says you can't just shoot someone because they broke into your home. You the victim must be put in a situation where deadly force or severe injury is believed to be imminent. If you can't clearly see if they have a weapon, this would instead clarify that did in fact have intentions to harm you. I think it might also be in there that you can only use deadly force if you can't readily get away. for example you might be in trouble after the fact if you were running away from an attacker outside that wasn't pursing you, then turned around and shot him/her. right now I can't quote the exact law without doing some searching.

my last post was to clarify how different designs work. i didn't read through most of the argument in the middle of this thread. i am definitely not arguing with your post here. i agree if the stops are removed bows may just lock up. that said I'm not sure why they're removed to begin with. i have seen bows come from big box stores where the draw stop was waaayyy in the wrong position, as was the case with my cousins Diamond Outlaw from Dick's Sporting Goods. it didn't lock up but felt very messed up when drawing. i imagine this part of the discussion came about thinking the OP might by a used bow from someone that's messed up. if buying a used bow, someone who isn't experienced enough should take it to a good bow shop to have the bow checked over. heck I've even got a Hoyt bow new still in the factory box that had a string get bumped out of the cam groove during shipping. nothing was damaged so i had to put it in a press and get it all back in working order.

the whole tactical and heavy fire power craze people are in makes them uninformed when it comes to self defense. we have a model at the club for educational purposes. it's a section of an exterior wall of a normal house, with siding complete all the way through to dry wall. it's shot with numerous calibers and weapons, from 22Short to big games rifles to 410 bird shot. 22LR doesn't provide that much stopping power but i agree quick follow ups are a complete necessity. maybe you hit the attacker with the first round or maybe you don't. it's not just the drugged up guy either anyone invading your home with bad intentions to harm you has adrenaline cranking through their vanes and won't even feel a shot for all it's worth at first. from a legal stand point it's assumed you've shot because you've let them know you're going to defend yourself and they've continued to come at you. if they're still coming at you they're aware they could get shot and don't care so they're also going to have a commited mind set to come at you no matter what. that said if a larger caliber handgun, any centerfire rifle, or a shotgun with heavy loads (not just buckshot) is in your mind ok to use for home defense you should realize that you better be trained like SWAT and/or have above average awareness of your surroundings despite all the craziness going on. almost everything went through that wall model we had, so your loved ones in the next room behind the bad person will catch friendly fire if you shoot with most ammo. right now the best home defense gun i could think of would be a revolver or compact repeater shotgun with 410 shells or light bird shot in it.

hahaha....well seeings how this thread is long gone. i'll give my thoughts. i don't believe any compound bow has nothing in place for a "draw stop", allowing you to draw until it simply locked up. older bows and some new target bows have cams machined with grooves or flat surfaces that the string bottomed out on. due to longer limb length of non-parallel limbed older bows with this style cam you got a "back wall / end of draw cycle" of the bow that was very spungy and allowed for another inch or more of draw if you simply pulled a little harder and disregarded your anchor related to your correct draw length. you wouldn't be allowed to simply draw and have the cams over rotate to the point where they wouldn't roll back when letting down on the string. most newer bows have post style draw stops to help stiffen the "back wall". there's two types of these posts; ones that contact the string/cables and ones that contact the limb(s). both can yield a pretty stiff back wall given the bow geometry of todays shorter, more parallel limbs. one grey area for some might be new bow fishing specific bows or the Mathews Genesis used for NASP in schools. these still have the first stop type i mentioned but won't serve it's purpose until the maximum draw length of the bow. most shooters simply draw to there anchor point as the draw range without any adjustments is huge.

it's not the two men's fault ... I mean it was dark. Long island women are always wearing those big fuzzy North Face fleeces and Ugg boots. On top of that their voices carry a long ways. I mean is there really that much of a difference? lol .....I'm sure someone will be "butt hurt" as they say on here. so... Lord I apologize.

....sounds like they heard all the Governor's sheep were down in NYC, so they must have figured cows were the next best thing. Some things just don't sound good to begin with, and you know they had to talk about it first.