dbHunterNY

I wouldn't care. we don't have a restriction on shooting jakes at the family farm. I don't shoot them but others do. split season sucks. I don't encourage shooting of hens. the population isn't that high here but the holding capacity isn't either.

holy heck this went off the rocker! lol Doc's first post was good. I'll add that because a bow is cheaper that doesn't mean it's a beginner bow for you. you buy the best equipment you can afford and stick with it. There's always going to be something better, something new, or something this guy used to kill a deer. there are bows with all types of specs, but old bows and new bows with the same specs aren't the same. stick with a bow between 31-35" axle to axle length and a brace height of close to 6.5" or more will help and have worked for a long time despite more recent trends. for example, shorter length bows are nice in treestands and blinds but are much easier to cant, thus throwing off your arrow right or left. bows with brace heights shorter than 6.5" are real fast but less forgiving for accuracy when you're not having a good day shooting with the best form. you should find plenty of bows meeting these specs that are IBO rated at 320 fps and up which is more than enough to kill anything. get a bow that's adjusted down to allow you to comfortably draw it while sitting in a chair with your feet up off the floor. you shouldn't be squirming around or pointing it at the ceiling while drawing either. the bow should be adjustable up in weight from there, as you'll gain strength and skill to draw more weight after shooting (regardless of your current physique). keep in mind new model year bows come out from late fall through the start of the new year. at this time look for left over model year bows or newer used that just got traded in and you'll save a lot of money. bows are like common cars as they depreciate as fast. also keep in mind many shops dump left over inventory on Ebay. also online forms like archery talk are good just keep in mind many on there like to tinker with bows and some tinkering folk don't know what they're doing. similarly as said bows can be adjusted all out of whack at big box stores. I know this as I've fixed half a dozen bows from them. with a whole draw length debate here's what I have to stay... keep in mind some bows require you to buy new cams and strings to change draw length. others are adjustable with some having everything you need (PSE brand for one) and others requiring you to only buy cheap small replacement modules (Hoyt brand). ask about this as you might not want to back yourself into a corner if draw length needs to change. if it's adjustable you can pass it on to a friend, family member, or resell it much easier. also regarding draw length buying the right release will help you out. it's much easier to shoot with one than without. your best most flexible option for hunting is an index finger trigger release with a wrist strap. get a buckle strap versus Velcro, so it's quiet and it'll be adjusted to the same fit every time you put it on. also some can have the length adjusted by removing allen screws and re-aligning screw holes. this will help get your anchor point just right, even when things like d-loops slightly change from having them replaced. one I shoot and recommend is the TRU Ball Beast II release but there are other good one out there. still lots to learn and much to type but you're good for now. hopefully you don't get bit by the bow bug like me and have a bow for every purpose and everything to work on them. lol not that it's a bad thing.

I'm not in a bow shop enough to do that. outdoor life and field & stream I think still do them similar to what you said.

I think the NYSAFE Act increased the severity of having one though but I forgot about that. you are right that it's been around. still neat idea.

looks nice. definitely some huntable ground. It looks like it could hunt better than other properties I've seen over 3 times the size. many places are setup poorly. deer traveling from bed to food and back go through neighboring properties. therefore your choice of what deer to kill won't mean as much without your neighbor having the same view. you can plant cover on other side of road to shield any view of food/ag plots from road peepers or hunters. you've got easy enough access to most of it. setup right you could probably hold deer, with exception of rutting activity. everything else that you've said that's non hunting related seems good too.

I don't really have a greatest but come to think of it all the ones at the top are when I was with family and friends. If I had to pick it'd be my deer. I was by myself but with dad on the other end of a walkie talkie. it was a 4x2 6 point buck that for some reason was against growing more points opposed to rack size. when dad walked up on it with me, I think he was happier than I was.

single person inflatable cheap pool inflatable or better an old tractor tube and tarp top if you've got them. store the cheap inflatable and a cheap hand pump in a sack tied to the base of a tree. you can even keep a spare. tie rope across going across the stream to bases of trees. rope shouldn't touch the water. you can walk yourself across by pulling along the rope. pack them in the sack if you're not coming back soon. that's what I'd do and it'd cost less than a bridge or anything else that crazy. waders is asking for trouble in times of fast current with a creek that deep and wide.

I've got cheap ones, middle of the road ones, and expensive ones. I like my lone wolf alpha hangon the best. I think it's worth the money.

no MOA... a lot of elevation dialing is in MOA and for example I've got an app on my phone called Bullet Flight (the version you pay a bit for) that gives you MOA, inches, and clicks. when you shoot it's good to not mix MOA, mil-dots, etc. if you dial elevation in MOA then you should dope wind in MOA. mil-dots work but it's not a system many hunters are used to.

I've always been a fan of reticles with MOA windage marks along the horizontal centered or main cross hair. elevation can be dialed with rare problems, but that setup allows you hold for windage instead of dialing. if the wind changes you can quickly adjust compensation. huskemaw, nightforce, and other brands have got that type of reticle.

with my one bow I've had a Alpine Soft-loc quiver on it. I usually take it off once in the tree. I just got a Tight spot for my other bow because no other quiver fits well with the setup and an HHA single pin with a yardage dial.

good news

it's all in what you want to do. going to a 22-250 or 223 isn't really big enough for big game like deer. better for varmints like coyote and woodchuck though. if having fun shooting targets at the range is your thing, 223 55gr FMJ ammo is cheap. cheap even with brass cases, but a FMJ (full metal jacket) is not designed to hunt animals with. keep in mind ammo that says 5.56 isn't meant for a rifle chambered for 223. however, you can shoot 223 ammo in a 5.56 chambered rifle.

lol no ... no.... that'd mean you have an excuse. you're probably just fussy like many of us that don't admit it are.

it's a grey area. for example NYSP SAFE Act contacts have been giving mixed feedback on whether or not a Kel-tec KSG shotgun is legal or not. Now it's a pump so it's not an assault weapon. however, it has two tubes that each hold up to 7 shot shells. to switch between tubes you have to stop firing and flip a selector switch to change to the next tube. technically they're two separate tubes but it can be construed as one whole device. it's still one piece or one device despite you'd have to reload each time, so I wouldn't risk it. that is unless I had a letter of clarification from the NYSP.

with a gun, very few aim for the head, some aim for the neck, some put it square on the shoulder, and most (I hope) aim for the heart lungs area without hitting leg or shoulder bone. I try real hard to choose the latter. otherwise there's risk.... - with the head it's a small target to hit and it's the thing that moves the most and first at the shot. - hitting in the neck will most of the time break it's spinal cord from the shock, but if it doesn't the deer is most certainly lost; no vital organs. also if it does work you've waisted most meat in the neck and there's a lot there. - square on the shoulder will turn both shoulder/leg bones into shrapnel, taking out the deer's lungs, use of front legs, and possible it's heart. however, huge waist of meat and a pain for anyone to process the carcass, especially if you do it yourself. with a bow you've only got one shot; behind the shoulder and 1/3 up from the bottom.

together it's one ammunition feeding device that holds more than 10 rounds. so I think it's illegal.

they're some what isolated from this ammo shortage as with other stuff like 30-06. however, it's my opinion that 22-250 is way easier to find than 25-06.

yea it's on my 3D bow and I'm trying it out. I will have it setup to work as a hunting back up too. we'll see how I like it. on my Axcel fixed pin sights I shoot .010" pins, the common .019" pins for it are ridiculously bright. I think the CBE sights are almost as bright too.

I don't blame you. free marketing so why not. my parent's have a vacation house in Hudson but it'd be a hike. i'll keep you in mind though. thanks for sharing the pictures too, looks like some nice gators. anything over 8' is a monster to me.

if you were closer to Pasco county we'd be talking but I think you've made your case.

unless you're worried about pelts on varmints and/or hand load you're going to shoot 150 gr or above just because under 150gr 30-06 factory loads aren't common really at all.

if it were a CCW then I'd go hammerless so the hammer won't snag on the draw, otherwise get an exposed hammer so you can shoot DA or SA. You'll shoot it way better SA.

they shoot pretty well but boy does the porting/muzzle brake make them loud. bring your ear plugs. the triangular barrel doesn't drift a shot string much but it will throw lots of fliers if the load doesn't go with the rifle. they're tack drivers though if you're not old and stubborn to get around the look.

i've got two 30-06s and all I ever shoot is 150 gr bullets. right now it seems both like Federal Fusion 150gr best. I'd shoot anything in NY with that round even if moose were to some day be legal.