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Any reason I shouldn't go with lighter arrows?


Core
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I'm shooting a 70lb bow at 52 lbs (PSE stinger, claims 316 fps capable). I don't plan on going heavier because I can shoot dozens of arrows at this weight and it's got ample energy to take a deer (I am not hunting anything bigger).

 

I bought $5 Easton arrows when I bought the bow. Although the whisker biscuit has warped their vanes to kingdom come I think I've become a pretty decent shot (at the range, that is) and making some nice groups.

 

My only complaint with these is that with the 100 grain field points (broadheads also at 100) I'm shooting 340 grains, when ideally at my draw weight I'd be closer to 275 (I know I need to be 5+ grain per lb).

 

Questions:

 

1) I want to go lighter so I can flatten trajectory due to less time in the air. Will the trajectory be meaningfully tightened up if I drop 20% off the arrow's weight? e.g. if I'm dropping 8" between 20 and 30 yard targets will it now drop 7, which isn't meaningful, or will it drop 4", which would be awesome? And if it is, is there a point at which trajectory becomes worse due to drag effects (same drag as at higher weight, but less mass to resist its effect, so arrow slows aggressively)?

 

2) I know I lose a tiny bit of penetration with these, but as 52 lbs is still ample for a deer, is there anything else I'm missing?

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download pinwheel software and enter you bow specs and it will tell you what spine you should be shooting and then you can narrow down on what arrows you should you.  Weight of the arrow has nothing to do with if it is the proper spine index for your specs.  Also might want to post anything specifically archery related on ArcheryTalk alot more archers on there then here.

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This probably doesn't apply to you, but it's my experience and maybe you can relate.

I went from 52-54lb @ 27" to 62-64lb @ 27" and noticed about 6" POI shift at 30 yards.

Hope this somehow helps you in determining if a lighter arrow would make a significant difference.

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Not trying to sway your decision of shooting a lighter poundage, but shooting dozens of arrows isn't realistic in a hunting scenario. Your first shot is all that counts. Also, shooting a lot in one round can cause arm fatigue and may lead to bad shooting form. Just a little food for thought.

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5g/lb is the minimum.  I wouldn't go lower than you are.  you wouldn't like see much difference in trajectory until after 30yds in any event. 

 

Then again, I prefer heavy arrows. 530g for 80lbs compound and 600g plus for 52lbs with the recurve.

Edited by moog5050
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I would highly recomend shooting the heavy arrow. You loose a lot of energy shooting a light arrow. Talk to some tradition shooters those arrows are almost double what you are shooting and the reason for that is you have to have kinetic energy and with out speed the only way to get it is mass. If your worried about you fetching the shrink ones made by twister are awesome and are dyi install with some hot water.

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52# is more than enough for hunting im just concerned that you have the limb bolts backed too far out. I dont know PSEs but in most cases 70lb limbs are 60-70 and going below that isnt recommended, especially way below the low end 

 

True but some bows are adjustable from like 25 to 70.  I have no idea on that PSE.

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True but some bows are adjustable from like 25 to 70.  I have no idea on that PSE.

I think youre right, that bow says adjustable from 27-60. I like to be on the heavy side with a hunting arrow. Most of my shots are short and the weight keeps the bow quiet. Play with a KE calculator there are dozens on the web. you can see how speed vs mass changes your KE

Edited by The_Real_TCIII
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I shoot a BowTech Tribute set at 62lbs. 29.5" draw length with loop, 27" arrows with blazers 75gr.BH and drop away. My arrow weighs in at 327grs. conservatively. My POI between my 20 and 30 yard pin is a 6" difference.  Same goes for my 30 and 40 yard pin. my 40-50 and 50-60 are 8" and 10". This is to give you some comparison to others setups.

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I shoot a BowTech Tribute set at 62lbs. 29.5" draw length with loop, 27" arrows with blazers 75gr.BH and drop away. My arrow weighs in at 327grs. conservatively. My POI between my 20 and 30 yard pin is a 6" difference. Same goes for my 30 and 40 yard pin. my 40-50 and 50-60 are 8" and 10". This is to give you some comparison to others setups.

It is physically impossible for you to loose 6" at 20-30 and 6" at 30-40. The second the arrow detaches drom the string it is slowing down and the speed of which it slows down is constantly increasing.

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shawnhu, that does sound quite significant.

 

I did back it down from 70. It is capable of 70, but I had it set at 52 at the store (there is debate about maxing limbs vs backing down, I realize, and I'm losing a touch of draw length backed down so much). The benefit of being able to shoot dozens of arrows is that I can go to the range and shoot dozens of arrows :) A guy there last week who has obviously spent a lot of time shooting said he can only shoot 28 arrows in a session and then he gets too fatigued. I feel that being able to shoot so many in a session has helped me get better.

 

I'm using 4" vanes. I think. They are pretty long--like i said I'm using entry level Easton carbon arrows. I have heard that some vanes are resistant to warping in a whisker biscuit and those sound compelling.

 

I guess I'm happy to see the support for heavier arrows, because i'm sure the lighter ones will be more expensive.

 

As far as spine the box of arrows matched the spine up to my draw weight.

52# is more than enough for hunting im just concerned that you have the limb bolts backed too far out. I dont know PSEs but in most cases 70lb limbs are 60-70 and going below that isnt recommended, especially way below the low end
Understood! I know they need minimum turn. I hope the guy at the store followed the directions and I think he did. I will double check the specs to be sure it's not too far backed off. Edited by Core
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As far as drop is concerned if I use my 30 yard pin at 20 yards I end up shooting about 7" high. The distance from my 20 to 30 yard pin is about the same as my 30 to 40 yard. However, Since the targets are further away as you go down the pins, those represent a greater actual drop from 40 to 30 vs from 20 to 30, and if I had a 50 yard pin it would be even slightly further down than the 40. I think I lose in the ballpark of 18" between 40 yards and 50 but I haven't measured it.

Edited by Core
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Going with a lighter draw weight, I would also imagine helping out in the woods as well.  I can draw my bow back slowly and quietly.  I see some people in the range trembling as they struggle to draw their bow back.  Sort of like they're jerking it back.  I just think all that is extra noise and the trembling is extra movement that can spook a deer.  But that's just my theory.  I've never had my draw weight set at an amount where I couldn't quietly draw it back in a smooth motion.

Edited by Elmo
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It is physically impossible for you to loose 6" at 20-30 and 6" at 30-40. The second the arrow detaches drom the string it is slowing down and the speed of which it slows down is constantly increasing.

how do you figure? if i use my 20 yard pin at 30 yards it drops about 6". my 30 yard pin at 40 hits about 6" low

Edited by chas0218
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It is physically impossible for you to loose 6" at 20-30 and 6" at 30-40. The second the arrow detaches drom the string it is slowing down and the speed of which it slows down is constantly increasing.[/quote

I don't think you are taking everything into account. It's definitely "physically" possible.

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shawnhu, that does sound quite significant.

I did back it down from 70. It is capable of 70, but I had it set at 52 at the store (there is debate about maxing limbs vs backing down, I realize, and I'm losing a touch of draw length backed down so much). The benefit of being able to shoot dozens of arrows is that I can go to the range and shoot dozens of arrows :) A guy there last week who has obviously spent a lot of time shooting said he can only shoot 28 arrows in a session and then he gets too fatigued. I feel that being able to shoot so many in a session has helped me get better.

I'm using 4" vanes. I think. They are pretty long--like i said I'm using entry level Easton carbon arrows. I have heard that some vanes are resistant to warping in a whisker biscuit and those sound compelling.

I guess I'm happy to see the support for heavier arrows, because i'm sure the lighter ones will be more expensive.

As far as spine the box of arrows matched the spine up to my draw weight.Understood! I know they need minimum turn. I hope the guy at the store followed the directions and I think he did. I will double check the specs to be sure it's not too far backed off.

Don't let anyone deter you from shooting more. Each person has a different perspective on what they shoot and how they shoot. Do what works for you.

Practice makes perfect, and you can't practice if you can't draw the bow.

My arrows are 383.2 ±.3 gr tolerance.

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Edited by shawnhu
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I shoot 57 pounds with fmjs 10.2 grains per inch with a 27.5 inch draw length. My arrows are 385 grains. They pack a wallop I hate light arrows the break to easy and don't penitrate that well

So you're even heavier than I am even accounting for draw weight.

 

In the past 500 shots I've shot about 4-5 off target and really surprised each time to find them totally unbroken each time (I check very carefully afterward). Maybe that is due to some extra weight.

 

Checked the manual, the 70# Stinger is capable of going down to 49 lbs with 12 turns, so I'm still within spec.

 

Seeing little support here for lighter arrows. I think I'll stick with what I have but maybe go for some different vanes. The more I shoot the more I realize the variance in each shot cannot be blamed on the arrows, though, and I've made some really nice groups from time to time.

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I'm sure I will be chastised for this but you only 30lbs. of KE to kill a deer that being said don't expect to pass thru or blow through a shoulder.

 

ON the extreme and I do not recommend doing this but you could shoot a 200gr. arrow at 261fps and have enough energy to effectively kill a deer. So if you want to go lighter go for it, i doubt you will pick up the speed you are looking for. for every +/-5 grains you will get +/-1fps.

Edited by chas0218
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I'm sure I will be chastised for this but you only 30lbs. of KE to kill a deer that being said don't expect to pass thru or blow through a shoulder.

 

ON the extreme and I do not recommend doing this but you could shoot a 200gr. arrow at 261fps and have enough energy to effectively kill a deer. So if you want to go lighter go for it, i doubt you will pick up the speed you are looking for. for every +/-5 grains you will get +/-1fps.

If those numbers are even in the ballpark, yeah I don't really care about another 10 fps. I'll never notice that.

 

My new avatar picture is what my arrow does to a tree at 30 yards. Doesn't really seem that deep, but wood is hard :D

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If those numbers are even in the ballpark, yeah I don't really care about another 10 fps. I'll never notice that.

My new avatar picture is what my arrow does to a tree at 30 yards. Doesn't really seem that deep, but wood is hard :D

I believe my bow was shooting 205 fps prior to upping the poundage. I have yet to check the new speed.

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So you're even heavier than I am even accounting for draw weight.

In the past 500 shots I've shot about 4-5 off target and really surprised each time to find them totally unbroken each time (I check very carefully afterward). Maybe that is due to some extra weight.

Checked the manual, the 70# Stinger is capable of going down to 49 lbs with 12 turns, so I'm still within spec.

Seeing little support here for lighter arrows. I think I'll stick with what I have but maybe go for some different vanes. The more I shoot the more I realize the variance in each shot cannot be blamed on the arrows, though, and I've made some really nice groups from time to time.

You can number your arrows and if the same arrows group differently, you can isolate them for further inspection or put them aside.

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