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Scout style or "standard" rifle for still hunting?


uberyan
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3 hours ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

Bolt actions aren't the best for everything. carry a 22" barrel still hunting for half a day and then switch to a 16 or 18" barrel for he rest and you will know how wrong that statement was!

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That's why I'm trying to lose a few lbs before season starts :)

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On August 16, 2016 at 9:57 AM, Culvercreek hunt club said:

One thing we haven't discussed here.....what is your budget?

 

I ask because I can't begin to tell you the number of folks I have seen complain about the accuracy of a gun, only to find out that they topped a good rifle with sub par mounts, rings and scopes. 

This is absolutely true. Had a guy I was shooting in some rifles for. They were some nice guns but the scopes were horrendous. The glass must be good

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On 8/16/2016 at 11:46 AM, uberyan said:

 

The one thing I wasn't expecting was for binoculars to be so expensive. 

There's some darn good buys in binoculars out there.

I've toted some 8x42 Nikon Monarchs around the world and they never let me down in the 250 dollar range.

Do I have "better"? Sure; but I like glassing hunts the best and in crappy conditions uber glass is amazing. Still a decent set will be useful beyond hunting season,  and the Nikons still ride around in the glove box.

 

 

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It's not the gun that matter its how well you can shoot with it.   Most shots as mentioned before when still hunting are usually up close and personal, 80 yards would be a really long shot that is not typical.  For this reason I switched from a 30-06 to a 308 (With over/under sights. :rolleyes:) and then a 44 Mag trapper model that is now my preferred weapon.   

IF you use a scope put it on the lowest power, this will keep a close deer in view of your scope vs having it on 9 power or maximum zoom will cause the deer at 30 yards take up the entire scope and you will have issues getting on target. 

Never shoot from the hip on a deer, always put them in your sights and right behind the shoulder.  The really good hunters are also some of the best shooters and never let this part of hunting become a week point.  Know where to aim from 5 ft out to as far as you are capable of shooting ethically.  For me with open sights its about 80 yards or so with the 44 Mag.  

VIP After the gun is sighted in with the ammo it likes, stop shooting from a bench.  As a still hunter your chances of getting a rest to shoot is slim at best so after your sighted in only shoot freehand unless you are rechecking a new bullet or seeing if you are still on target.  After you shoot a round get back on target and reload as quick as possible, start slow and be safe and work you way up to a smooth motion so it is second nature.  Clean the barrel every time after you hit the range, it will keep it clean and shooting true as it can.  When shooting at the range high zoom is ok but always lower it before you leave for hunting.  Give you gun time to cool off, at least a few min between shots when checking accuracy from a bench.  Always check your fist shot when you go to the range, it should be the one you count on because usually the first one is all that matters.  (Sometimes a hot barrel can shoot different than a cold one.)  

Great advice in the previous posts!  Good luck and keep us posted! 

 

 

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16 hours ago, Buckmaster7600 said:

How will loosing a few lbs keep "a few inches of barrel from catching anything meaningful?"

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Less weight to carry around. Not sure where you guys are hunting that a few inches extra on the barrel has ever honestly cost you a shot because it got hung up on a branch. I'm sure it could happen but the fact most people here seem to have no issue with a lengthy rifle tells me it hasn't been a problem for most.

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OP, figure out what kind of hunting you want to do and where you want to do it.

If you're stand hunting in some farmer's field, the rifle weight won't matter as much.  So a standard rifle such suffice (something like a 20" barrel with a 3-9 scope).

 

If you're going to be hoofing it up and down Adirondack-style terrain, you'll want to go as light as possible...perhaps something like the Ruger Gunsite you mentioned, of either the 18" or 16" variety and maybe forgo the scope and use open sights (that's a personal preference issue).

 

Whatever rifle you end up getting, make sure you get proficient with it.

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On 8/17/2016 at 6:28 PM, Dinsdale said:

There's some darn good buys in binoculars out there.

I've toted some 8x42 Nikon Monarchs around the world and they never let me down in the 250 dollar range.

Do I have "better"? Sure; but I like glassing hunts the best and in crappy conditions uber glass is amazing. Still a decent set will be useful beyond hunting season,  and the Nikons still ride around in the glove box.

 

 

Crazy how you can get a rifle for the cost of what's considered good binoculars.

The Monarch 5s are on the top of the list. Can be had for a shade over $200 so unless some of the cheaper Bushnells or whatever are a better value, looks like the Monarchs will get the nod.

Oh, I did get my first hunting/shooting related delivery yesterday, the Leight Electronic ear muffs.

Figure I'll need them sooner or later, might as well have them ready for the LGS range day coming up.

They said hearing protection would be provided but I don't like ear plugs and the thought of "community" ear muffs skeeves me out.

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On 8/17/2016 at 4:40 PM, Bowguy 1 said:

This is absolutely true. Had a guy I was shooting in some rifles for. They were some nice guns but the scopes were horrendous. The glass must be good

Yes! I had to learn this the hard way as many did. It can be hard to convince a newbie that a $200 black tube with two pieces of glass on the end is better than a $50 one. You're just stuck in your old ways, they'll show you the $50 does fine. Then the newbie gets to the range and just the jarring of the action slamming closed causes the crosshairs to start twisting in the scope. Then they realize heck maybe there is something to that $200 scope after all.

That was my experience with a simmons. Now the rifle has a nikon. 

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14 minutes ago, Core said:

That was my experience with a simmons. Now the rifle has a nikon. 

I think it has to do with the Model of each as well. I have a Simmons Aetec (Just for Pygmy- it is a 2.8-10x44...lol)and it has been a great scope, very clear and solid when I bought it I think the cost was 180-200. I had a Nikon fail after one season but is was one that came on a "combo".  I think you are spot on with the purchase of bargain basement glass. 

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To jump in here,a and go way off topic I'd recommend you start with the basics, I know you said still hunting, so I'd recommend getting out in the woods NOW and scouting. If you have some private land to hunt on and some extra $$ get a trail cam close to where you may be hanging a stand or making a blind ( if you can't swing the stand$). Find a busy run and start recognizing the average wind patterns. Read up on every topic you can in regards to whitetail habits, even if you take one tidbit from ten articles I promise you won't forget them and they could land you some good deer. I guess what I'm really trying to say is kudos for wanting to get range time and learn about weapons and safety, but hunters also need to know about what they are hunting. As far as the gun question, any reasonable caliber weapon will kill a deer, if you spend the time scouting and let them come to you, putting one on the ground WILL happen no matter what you buy. Still hunting though, get good with the open sights as they will never ever fail you and can go out in any weather and through anything. My .02

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