Set up - What to look for?

[Jaeger]

Hey guys,

Well tomorrow I am going down to the local shop to buy a PSE Stinger Ready to Shoot bow.  I need to know what to pay attention to as the shop guy sets it up for me.

Now please do not tell me to go to other shops, buy used, buy on line, or otherwise try to change and complicate my decision.

I am buying this bow and at this shop because I am a, for all intents and purposes, a newbie to compounds not having shot one since the 80's and I am very loyal to this shop.  They do all my transfers, order what ever I want and are basically very good to me.  (I tried rehabbing the 'ole ram hunter, but I'm convinced the limbs are shot, recovering at different rates).

The other shop in town is awful, bad attitude, etc. and even had a third shop shut down by calling the ATF for things they themselves do in secret (but that's another whopper of a story).

So, what do I pay attention to and in what order?

Draw length and weight?  

I have a very short draw, 25" on longbow, 26" on recurves and probably similar on this compound.  But will using a release effectively shorten the LOP?

Should I have the draw weight set at a lower or higher end?

I shoot 42 and 45 lb longbows with ease and a 60 lb recurve with some difficulty.  Thinking 50-55 lbs but this thing can go up to over 70lbs.

Sights and rest (comes with a wisker biscuit).  What to look at here ?

As for arrows, I have some carbons that were purchased and cut to match my draw length and 50 lb ram hunter and I figure I can tweak it with head weight changes (works with carbons on stick bows).

So, if you were me going in to purchase a specific bow, what would you look for and how would you assist the shop guy in getting it set up for you correctly?

 

Thanks guys and gals,

Jaeger

[Jeremy K]

You can add weight to the tip  which would react like shooting a lighter spined arrow. Spine weight is a big deal on theses new bows with "hot" cams. I just got done fighting underspined arrows on my Impulse 31, as soon as i started shooting the new (heavier spine) arrows, my inconsistencies went away and I was only a couple site adjustments from done.

[grampy]

Congrats on getting a new compound. The PSE stinger is a great choice. The shop you are buying the bow from will be a huge help, guiding you in the correct set up. 55 pound draw will be more than enough to zip arrows through deer. With a compound you will have let off, that you don't have with the trad bows. It's an easy adjustment to increase poundage, so start a little on the light side. Most people find the trigger style release aid, more comfortable so I'd go with that. Also a D-loop will add about a half inch to your draw length. Whisker Biscuit sights are great, easy to use and adjust. Again the shop will give sound advice on arrows that will work best with your set up. So since you have a good working relationship with them, let them guide you in setting up. Most all have fun with your new bow! Post some pic's for us to see of the bow and your shots as they improve over the next few weeks!

[Bowguy 1]

Main thing is draw length which you can screw up if you don't have proper form. Ask him to correct you if you over draw. Now he can't possibly set it up until You bring the release Youre using along n get measured w it. Next is arrows. Yes weight heavier or lighter on the tip can make the arrow more or less stiff but what if you need say 145gr field points or more to accomplish what you need. You'd tune the bow n how would you hunt w it? You need broadheads n they should match field point. Id personally advise getting arrows that match n will make life easier. 

The rest he should know, good luck

[Buckmaster7600]

If you don't know how to do it ask them about paper tuning. I would shoot the bow for a week or 2 before bothering tuning it but it is a must in my opinion. A properly tuned bow will shoot better with more consistency and efficiency. A property tuned bow allows you to pick the broadhead you want to shoot not choosing one that the bow will shoot.


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[nybuckboy]

IMHO - 3 things

1 - a single pins site set at 20 (when you get proficient move it out to 25)

2 - a good drop away rest

3 - to determine your poundage, stand up straight and pull the bow straight back w/o raising it.  Whatever you are able to pull back at the heaviest back it down about 3 pounds. After sitting in a stand for a few hours when it's cold you'll thank me for this tip.

[Core]

I have the same bow. Mine is called the PSE Droptine, which is the name they give the stinger when they sell it as a package. In my case from field & stream. Mine is a 50-70 lb bow which I've currently got at 50 and I'm shooting 400 grain total weight arrows. I have it set at 50 basically just because it's ample for deer and I don't want to put undue burden on my joints. 

Since I've had mine the quiver has snapped in half. I suppose that may be somewhat related to it falling out of a tree. I glued it back together with fiberglass mesh and epoxy, so now it's fine. Also the level fell out of the sight. This might also be related to the fact it fell out of a tree (heh), so I bought a new sight because I couldn't find a spare level. The existing sight is okay but it's a three pin with large optic dots. $40 buys a nicer sight with smaller dots, but the existing one is fine. I've put I dunno maybe 2000 arrows through mine (maybe less) and the string is in excellent shape (I wax it every 200-300 arrows at the most). The peep sight has some rotational issues and when mine popped out one day I went with a tube peep. I know some people hate tube peeps but honestly I love the tube peep, I can't lie.

Whisker biscuit on mine looks great except a few of the whiskers near where the arrow rubs are starting to stick out. I bet it has at least a couple thousand more arrows in it, though.

I paper-tuned the bow at home. Unfortunately they probably won't have time to really tune it nicely, but it's an easy process to learn yourself.

[DirtTime]

First things to do with a package bow, get rid of the quiver, arrow rest, and sights. Upgrade all of them! Most times, they are cheap, like buying a gun & scope package, good rifles with bad glass.

Have a shop help set it up like you plan to. If they have a range shoot a few arrows to make sure it's sighted in at least with OK groups ( 6" ), you can tweak it and dial it in tight later.

Don't go too light on arrows. If you plan to shoot 50-55 lbs then get carbon arrows that at minimum are rated to 60#'s. 

Edited August 22, 2016 by ....rob

[Bowguy 1]

Core it's best imo to shoot 12 o clock on the pin n put that just under what you'd like to hit. Also 200-300 shots wax is good but if it's hot more could be in order at times. Just a fyi

[dbHunterNY]

On ‎8‎/‎22‎/‎2016 at 7:34 AM, Jaeger said:

Hey guys,

Well tomorrow I am going down to the local shop to buy a PSE Stinger Ready to Shoot bow.  I need to know what to pay attention to as the shop guy sets it up for me.

Now please do not tell me to go to other shops, buy used, buy on line, or otherwise try to change and complicate my decision.

I am buying this bow and at this shop because I am a, for all intents and purposes, a newbie to compounds not having shot one since the 80's and I am very loyal to this shop.  They do all my transfers, order what ever I want and are basically very good to me.  (I tried rehabbing the 'ole ram hunter, but I'm convinced the limbs are shot, recovering at different rates).

The other shop in town is awful, bad attitude, etc. and even had a third shop shut down by calling the ATF for things they themselves do in secret (but that's another whopper of a story).

So, what do I pay attention to and in what order?  they should come up with a draw length and then have you draw bow to check it.  they should set you up with a hunting marketed arrow.  shouldn't sell you that it's the fastest.  you want durable and heavy enough for penetration.  0.400 spine arrow is what you probably end up with.  all release should be the one you're going to buy and use.

Draw length and weight?  no need to shoot more than 60 lbs

I have a very short draw, 25" on longbow, 26" on recurves and probably similar on this compound.  But will using a release effectively shorten the LOP?  draw length will be the same most likely.  your anchored hand by your jaw bone will be new.  string still to the corner of mouth.  String angle will be much less than your trad bows.  Don't worry about moving your forward or down to touch your nose to string.  Keep your head naturally up with neck relaxed.  they should have you draw back, come to anchor, and then open eyes.  peep should be in line with eyeball or moved up/down accordingly, each time redrawing and coming to anchor with eyes closed.

Should I have the draw weight set at a lower or higher end?  compounds perform best at max draw weight for their limbs.

I shoot 42 and 45 lb longbows with ease and a 60 lb recurve with some difficulty.  Thinking 50-55 lbs but this thing can go up to over 70lbs.  let-off will be 75-80%. 

Sights and rest (comes with a wisker biscuit).  What to look at here ?  they wear out but work.  setup with odd vane almost always up.  short thick vanes like bohning blazers last longer shot through these.

As for arrows, I have some carbons that were purchased and cut to match my draw length and 50 lb ram hunter and I figure I can tweak it with head weight changes (works with carbons on stick bows).  more energy released quicker in compounds.  now you'll want a .400 spined arrow with 100gr head.  any heavy brass might be able to stay.  any weight screwed into back of insert get rid of.  look up the arrow manufacturers chart online.  if they pick arrows for you they should be too.  draw weights are corrected not just the weight your bow is set to.  factors like point weight and bow geometry/speed add to that weight to determine what weight to use in the chart.

So, if you were me going in to purchase a specific bow, what would you look for and how would you assist the shop guy in getting it set up for you correctly?  let him/her know if you intend on using anything you've already got before hand and bring it!  finger pinch inevitable if you're not using a release.  cheap releases don't adjust.  get one that adjusts with a buckle strap for consistent anchor.  just as important as with trad.  index finger relaxed and the trigger should be right there.  shouldn't need to reach for it.  soft tied on nock points with a D-loop are great with compounds.  ditch brass nocks. they add weight and can possibly damage release calipers causing excessive string serving or D-loop wear.  get good and soft bow string wax if you don't have it.  apply light coat every shooting session.  check arrow fit with quiver.  they should've checked all bolts and fasteners on the bow to ensure tight.

 

Thanks guys and gals,

Jaeger