OldNewbie Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 I was in my blind today and thinking about I will do if/when a deer comes in range and I want to shoot it. (It's a natural blind, not a fully enclosed pop-up or tree stand. Just prior to shooting, I will likely be standing behind a tree with shooting window just beside the tree. ) Realized there are some potential pitfalls in the draw-aim-release sequence. Like - do you have the bow down and to the side under cover of the blind, draw, then raise it? If you draw at right angle to the deer, then you have to raise it and swing it 90 degrees to come on target. A lot of movement. I also find sometimes I draw the bow in a horizontal position and have to swivel it 90 degrees to the vertical to aim and shoot (bad habit from target shooting). Again a lot of movement. Or is it best to take a step back away from the tree, point the bow toward the tree, then draw. then sidestep from behind the tree and shoot? If that is so, standing behind the tree gives the most cover when drawing, but if you do that, you might end up with the arrow aimed at a tree 6" away.. dangerous I think. I'm probably overthinking this, but I am new to the sport, and wondering what others do.. Is there a 'best' way to do this safely and with least chance of spooking the deer? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moog5050 Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Perhaps overthinking it. Wait until the deer looks away or has head obscured if possible. Pick bow up in vertical position facing target, draw, anchor, aim, expand/release. At least that's what I do. Once I think it's the right time to draw, I am pretty much on autopilot. Not sure why you would draw with bow horizontal ever. More movement and a greater chance to get out of position. Just my opinion. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moog5050 Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) Double post AGAIN. Edited October 3, 2016 by moog5050 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckmaster7600 Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Overthinking it wait until they turn or put their head down and draw slowly.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genesee_mohican Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Deer tend to pick up the slightest movement at eye level. You will want to draw as early as possible and time your draw and make your move while they are walking and behind any cover between you and them for sure. A good camo pattern, slow, well timed movement and a lot of luck are needed to get into position to release an arrow on a deer while hunting from the ground. I would prefer to sit behind the blind/cover to break up my silhouette, but that's me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowguy 1 Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 (edited) Moog nailed it but why not climb? If you're in a blind draw normally n keep everything inside. You should know in most blinds if put up the same day deer either see it n look at it, become suspicious n walk away or see it walk closer stomping their hoof, once there the only way to leave is exposing vitals so best to know body language n get ready for what's coming. I call it reading the play. If it's set for a bit n you make no noise they'll ignore it mostly. Ugh read you wrong drawing in a natural blind is the same but as stated by others deer can see motion extremely well at eye level. Draw once they step behind a tree or have eyes exposed. You should also know you're doing things kinda the hard way for a beginner. If I was you Id ask about better options Edited October 3, 2016 by Bowguy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldNewbie Posted October 4, 2016 Author Share Posted October 4, 2016 Turns out I made a new blind at noon, sat at 6:15 PM and shot a doe at 6:35 PM. Honestly I don't know exactly how I drew (it was like Moog said, autopilot) except I was focused on keeping the deers heads behind the tree in front of me until I was at full draw and looking through the peep. Then I stepped to the side of tree and the deer was in my sights. They looked at me but didn't spook. I think the advice I got about being silhoutted in a blind yesterday and day before might have made the difference. I put a bunch of foliage upright behind me to block any silhoutting from a lighter patch of open ground up the hill behind me. Thanks everyone for all the help. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbHunterNY Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 sounds like you're figuring things out. back drop helps. sometimes you have to draw early. sometimes you don't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NFA-ADK Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 I draw just before they get into sight, like stated when behind a tree or any cover when they will not see your draw. Then if they do not stop at the spot I want I will give a MAA, MAAAA call to get them to stop and pose for my shot. Did this shot last year on a doe, she posed for 10 full seconds. Got lucky. Draw starts after the 1:15 mark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockspek Posted October 4, 2016 Share Posted October 4, 2016 8 hours ago, NFA-ADK said: I draw just before they get into sight, like stated when behind a tree or any cover when they will not see your draw. Then if they do not stop at the spot I want I will give a MAA, MAAAA call to get them to stop and pose for my shot. Did this shot last year on a doe, she posed for 10 full seconds. Got lucky. Draw starts after the 1:15 mark. That was very helpful to watch. Thank you for sharing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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