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Change in head weight


zeus1gdsm
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hey i think you might have too heavy an arrow i looked on a chart i think theres one on here . i shoot beman carbon 28'' @ 400 spine and im shooting 60 lbs. sorry i tried to attach one here and you are deffently shooting too heavy a head try 100 grain . thats what i shoot and like the other guys said i shoot the rage broadhead. getting back to the chart you fell into 400 arrows too with your draw length and draw weight google arrow weight chat and you'll see different charts i looked on the one for compound bows and carbon arrows

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.350" spine for the Whitetail 350's should be fine with a 125gr head.  original string might have cam rotation slightly off for vertical nock travel.  center shot is slightly off though too which could be causing the up and down discrepancy.  closer you get either a vertical or horizontal tear the more it'll actually help the other to an extent. if you go to 100gr heads like has been said it could take out just enough flex to pull them in closer.  honestly the original string worries me.   often old strings go unchecked in places like under serving and that's where strings will break.  when you shoot does the string friz up a bit and look like hell until you apply more wax?  it probably does, meaning it should be replaced. in all honestly though if you can group your broadhead tipped arrows well enough then adjust sights to them.  watch for arrows drifting to the right more as you move back. means your center shot is slightly off.

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.350" spine for the Whitetail 350's should be fine with a 125gr head.  original string might have cam rotation slightly off for vertical nock travel.  center shot is slightly off though too which could be causing the up and down discrepancy.  closer you get either a vertical or horizontal tear the more it'll actually help the other to an extent. if you go to 100gr heads like has been said it could take out just enough flex to pull them in closer.  honestly the original string worries me.   often old strings go unchecked in places like under serving and that's where strings will break.  when you shoot does the string friz up a bit and look like hell until you apply more wax?  it probably does, meaning it should be replaced. in all honestly though if you can group your broadhead tipped arrows well enough then adjust sights to them.  watch for arrows drifting to the right more as you move back. means your center shot is slightly off.
Thanks for the detailed response... yes the string gets hairy by the end of the season. I wax it all at the beginning and by the end it gets a bit hairy so I was again. This is after some 200+ shots (practice) it gets hairy.

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4 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

Thanks for the detailed response... yes the string gets hairy by the end of the season. I wax it all at the beginning and by the end it gets a bit hairy so I was again. This is after some 200+ shots (practice) it gets hairy.

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those hairs are all broken down strands on the surface of the string.  cables will get the same way but you see it on the string more because it's cutting through the air so much and oscillating at the end of its travel.  when you have broken strands like that it just makes it more prone to stretch and be inconsistent too.  also it's probably louder.  hope it doesn't break on you.  hard to say.  make sure none of the serving around cams, cable guard (no serving, just look at cable/string), or center serving at your nock point is worn and showing string material.

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I agree that the 350 spine is too stiff. 400's would be better and shorten arrows and 100 gr head but check the FOC you may need to add weight or you may find the 125's are fine.  Buy one 400 Beman arrow, cut to 31 inches and check the total arrow weight and FOC with both the 100 and 125 head. FOC should be about 10-12 %.

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13 hours ago, zeus1gdsm said:

Have 410grain arrow weight. Bow shoots at 318fps.

Coming up with a kinetic energy of 91.97.


Still not enough for mechanicals?

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If those numbers are accurate, you should have plenty.  But, that would put your bow at an IBO rating of 382 - faster than any production bow made today (I think Full Throttle at 370 is still king).  That's one fast Matthews solocam.

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5 minutes ago, zeus1gdsm said:

Lol. Okay I used the ke calc on that same site linked.. I pulled 318 fps off stock switchback specs.

I see the issue. The calc asked for arrow speed.

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318 is probably ibo for that bow, meaning 70lbs at 28" and a 350g arrow. 

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The ballad of the bow continues.

New broadheads came in. I went conservative with rocket steel heads. 100g 1-1/8 cutting d.

Switching to 100g points took my groups from 3-4inches to consistent 1inch groups. 10, 20 and 30 are all totally dialed and the rockets hit right with the fields. It's like a laser now when I do my part.

I took it out to 40 and I was hitting a foot or more to the left...

I was able to adjust the rest about a 1mm to the right and cut the disparity to about 9incbes on a perfect shot (no cant)

The rest is now maxed out to the right.

Do I move the sight? Or does this just confirm I need more paper tuning?

I paper tuned for several weeks last year, I don't know if I could get it any closer on my own.

Or is this possibly an indication of the string shot out?

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1 hour ago, biggamefish said:

I wouldn't go nuts cutting the arrows do a little at a time and shoot to compare. it will take a lot of time but you will get results. If you take to much off at one time it can have a negative effect and put you back to square one.

It's easier to tune a stiff spine than it is a weak one. He already has 125's so if for some strange reason he becomes over spined with 100 grainers the 125's will do the trick to weaken the spine back up.

The other solution would be to not cut the arrows and try 75 grain heads but that means buying more stuff. 

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54 minutes ago, Doewhacker said:

It's easier to tune a stiff spine than it is a weak one. He already has 125's so if for some strange reason he becomes over spined with 100 grainers the 125's will do the trick to weaken the spine back up.

The other solution would be to not cut the arrows and try 75 grain heads but that means buying more stuff. 

That works too. I started with a stiff spine so I could put 100 grain insert and a 175 grain broadhead on.  Gives me good FOC.

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On 9/2/2017 at 2:12 PM, zeus1gdsm said:

The ballad of the bow continues.

New broadheads came in. I went conservative with rocket steel heads. 100g 1-1/8 cutting d.

Switching to 100g points took my groups from 3-4inches to consistent 1inch groups. 10, 20 and 30 are all totally dialed and the rockets hit right with the fields. It's like a laser now when I do my part.

I took it out to 40 and I was hitting a foot or more to the left...

I was able to adjust the rest about a 1mm to the right and cut the disparity to about 9incbes on a perfect shot (no cant)

The rest is now maxed out to the right.

Do I move the sight? Or does this just confirm I need more paper tuning?

I paper tuned for several weeks last year, I don't know if I could get it any closer on my own.

Or is this possibly an indication of the string shot out?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Seems to me that if you are dialed in 10, 20 & 30 that it's you shooting at 40.  JMHO

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