Bow Tuning Guide

[dbHunterNY]

I'm too much of a tinkerer to serve in the cord.  after paper and simple walk back tuning I shoot out past 60 yards to tune to make the better grouping.  usually it's moving the rest so little I don't need to re-time it at all but there's times where I do.  probably more so because of OCD like tendencies more than anything.

[OldNewbie]

I have a few tuning questions.

 

1) I paper tuned my compound bow and got it so 4 of six arrows are bullet holes at 10 yds. The arrow seems centered with the bow string and the tray on the shelf, so all good there. However, I noticed that the fletching on the arrows actually brushes against the cable slightly. If you hold the arrow rest up and nock an arrow, then move the arrow in and out, you can the edge of one vane is overlapping the cable just a hair (maybe 1/16" or less). Is this something to worry about? I have to move the arrow rest out pretty far to get the fletching to not touch the cable. I think these are 3 degree fletchings if that matters.

 

2) I also shoot a vertical bow with a bristle type capture rest. Like a whisker bisquit but the whiskers are only in three places with space for the fletching vanes to pass in between. This bow shoots pretty well, accurate and good groups. But I notice the fletching vanes are getting black streaks on them and I'm wondering if the vanes are brushing against the rest a bit too much? Or is it possible the arrows themselves are leaving black streaks when they land tight to another arrow in the target? 

 

3) Final question, not a tuning question but... if a plastic vane gets a nick or tear in the outer edge, can it be repaired with glue or should that arrow be decommissioned until a new vane can be installed? I've had this happen once each on the regular compound bow and the vertical bow.

 

 

[The_Real_TCIII]

Can you rotate your nock slightly to get clearance? As far as a nick in the vane simply clip it out with a scissor leaving a notch, it won't change a thing. Is your bristle rest a whisker biscuit? Are you running a vine through the black bristles at "6 o'clock? If so you should rotate the nock so they don't

Edited April 13, 2016 by The_Real_TCIII

[OldNewbie]

Can you rotate your nock slightly to get clearance? As far as a nick in the vane simply clip it out with a scissor leaving a notch, it won't change a thing. Is your bristle rest a whisker biscuit? Are you running a vine through the black bristles at "6 o'clock? If so you should rotate the nock so they don't

 

I could try rotating the nock.. next question: How do you un-glue a nock? 

[The_Real_TCIII]

Carbon or aluminum arrows? Typically in carbon the nock isn't glued

[sweet old bill]

you put a new nock on to get the proper placement. If you have a vane with a nick in the edge, you replace the vane.

[dbHunterNY]

I could try rotating the nock.. next question: How do you un-glue a nock? 

 

let it set in acetone if they're aluminum arrows.  if they're carbon then there's no reason I can think of to glue the nock.  nocks are cheap arrows aren't.  don't just drop a carbon arrow in acetone and let it sit there for a while.

[dbHunterNY]

you put a new nock on to get the proper placement. If you have a vane with a nick in the edge, you replace the vane.

 

I know some people cut them but you're best having all arrows exactly the same.  I agree.

[The_Real_TCIII]

You should see my 3D vanes, they look like Swiss cheese from notching out nicks, they fly like darts. I guess if you're steering a broadhead you need all that surface area. Replacing a single vane is no easy feat though

[dbHunterNY]

You should see my 3D vanes, they look like Swiss cheese from notching out nicks, they fly like darts. I guess if you're steering a broadhead you need all that surface area. Replacing a single vane is no easy feat though

 

I've got the EZ fletch that does them all at once so I can actually close everything up and it positions it all just right if you're careful enough.  something like a bitz jig is a pain and better off stripping them all.  not a big deal if you're already setup to do the work.  I've usually got one or two in my hip quiver with messed up vanes.  they get moved and others shot.  I number mine arrows and have noticed a difference in point of impact from the vanes.  I shoot a heavy helical though too versus more straight fletched vanes.  even for 3D.  if a vane is ripped or has a hole I hear it. effects aren't too bad within bowhunter class range of 35 yards but out to 50 plus it's very noticeable.  still at bowhunter class ranges if you're counting x's or 12's you pay attention to those little imperfections.  something like a hunting situation has the same effect.  your average joe that dusts off his bow right before the season might not be able to tell or care.

[OldNewbie]

Another tuning related question:  My groups are 1" wide and 6" high. What should I look for as possible causes of the excessive variability in the vertical dimension? 

 

 

Update on my other question re the vanes hitting the cable. I remembered that the bow shop installed a new cable guide. I compared it to the old one, and sure enough, it is just enough larger to cause a problem. I emailed Parker and they are sending me a replacement part gratis.. Meanwhile I put the old one back on, and shot 6 bullet holes on paper, and the groups as described above.. 

[DirtTime]

Another tuning related question:  My groups are 1" wide and 6" high. What should I look for as possible causes of the excessive variability in the vertical dimension? 

 

Try adjusting the sights.

Edited April 14, 2016 by ....rob

[The_Real_TCIII]

Try adjusting the sights.

if you're getting bullet holes and they're grouping I agree with Rob

[OldNewbie]

Another tuning related question:  My groups are 1" wide and 6" high. What should I look for as possible causes of the excessive variability in the vertical dimension? 

 

 

Update on my other question re the vanes hitting the cable. I remembered that the bow shop installed a new cable guide. I compared it to the old one, and sure enough, it is just enough larger to cause a problem. I emailed Parker and they are sending me a replacement part gratis.. Meanwhile I put the old one back on, and shot 6 bullet holes on paper, and the groups as described above.. 

 

I see now I didn't explain the grouping right. The group is centered on the aiming point, with only 1" variation horizontally, but with a 6" vertical spread above and below the bullseye. Could not holding a constant draw length from shot to shot cause that? 

[dbHunterNY]

I see now I didn't explain the grouping right. The group is centered on the aiming point, with only 1" variation horizontally, but with a 6" vertical spread above and below the bullseye. Could not holding a constant draw length from shot to shot cause that? 

 

yes and dropping arm at the shot because you're not focused on staying on target until the arrow hits.  for bow related items vane clearance or nock and rest height/position will do that.  if you're only at say 20 yards it could be a little of everything.  maybe have someone stand behind and over your shoulder to watch your arrow flight to see if the nock end is acting like a porpoise, kicking up or down on the way to the target.  may need to shoot a little farther than 20 yards depending on how fast your bow is. 

 

....make sure they know to keep their face away from your elbow so they don't get it in the face.

 

Edited April 15, 2016 by dbHunterNY

[dbHunterNY]

to sight in use a level and draw horizontal line for sight in up/down and then vertical line for sighting in Left/right.  when worrying about one don't worry so much about the other.

[moog5050]

arrows spraying horizontally is usually alignment and vertically its usually inconsistent anchor. As DB mentioned, you could be peeking (dropping your bow arm) on some shots.

[2012_taco]

I know this topic has been around a while but I am a little confused trying to make sure my bow is properly tuned. I have a 2013 Elite Hunter, set at 65# 29" draw shooting 410 gr.arrows including 100 gr. heads.When I bought the bow it had new winners choice strings and cables, I had it set up for me by Roy at Nicks' Archery and he paper shot it and perfect tear. When I paper shoot it I keep getting a high right tear. Roy says it is my form and I need more thumb pressure? So after reading a lot on this subject today I finally tried walk back tuning. I'm getting better arrow flight as i don't seem to get the occasional drifters or corkscrewing flight. Tried the paper tune again and now I just get a slight  1" or less tear to the right. I think I'm on the right path now I just need to get out and practice more. Confidence in my shooting is going to be key to hunting, I hate to go out not being absolutely sure I can make a shot when the time comes. 

[The_Real_TCIII]

Roy can get a good tear out of a nerf bow

[2012_taco]

OK I did the walk back tuning with field points a while ago, made the adjustments to get it on, I have been shooting my bow with pretty good results so I decided to try the walk back tuning with broadheads yesterday..... I had to make a couple of adjustments as my arrows were hitting 2" to the left. I got it set up good and actually cut the string at 30 yds! So like the dummy I am,  I went back and tried the paper test with field points and I keep getting a 2" right tear! Should I be concerned with this or just be satisfied that the bow is shooting good with broadheads? I'm sure the field points are going to hit different than the broadheads no big deal as I plan to just practice with broad heads from here on, but I do have a 3D shoot coming up and I don't want to be changing things just for the shoot. Am I missing something here?

[moog5050]

1 hour ago, 2012_taco said:

OK I did the walk back tuning with field points a while ago, made the adjustments to get it on, I have been shooting my bow with pretty good results so I decided to try the walk back tuning with broadheads yesterday..... I had to make a couple of adjustments as my arrows were hitting 2" to the left. I got it set up good and actually cut the string at 30 yds! So like the dummy I am,  I went back and tried the paper test with field points and I keep getting a 2" right tear! Should I be concerned with this or just be satisfied that the bow is shooting good with broadheads? I'm sure the field points are going to hit different than the broadheads no big deal as I plan to just practice with broad heads from here on, but I do have a 3D shoot coming up and I don't want to be changing things just for the shoot. Am I missing something here?

If the BHs hit differently than the FP, you are losing energy on the shot.  Try to move them together on the walk back tune.  Shoot 3 of each at 30 and see where they land.  Lets assume BHs group 4' right of FPs, then in small increments (testing in between each adjustment) move the rest to the left until they group together. If the BHs group left of FP, then move the rest right (towards riser).  Once you have those BHs and FPs grouping together, move to 40yds and try the same thing.  It should be much small rest adjustments if any.  If 40yds is way beyond your range to group well, then start at 20 and move to 30.  Forget about paper tuning at this point.  Just get the FP and BH grouping well.  If they are, your paper should be good.  If its not, its a form issue, not the tune, and not something likely to be addressed before this season.

Shooting only BH or FP and adjusting is not tuning but sighting in with your existing tune.

 

I should mention that you want to shoot at the same spot, but either shoot your Bhs first or shoot the FP, remove the arrows and then shoot BHs and compare POI of groups.  When you actually start grouping together, shooting BHs will cut the vanes of nearby arrows.

Edited September 7, 2016 by moog5050

[2012_taco]

I'll give it a try. I didn't even think about trying the walk back tuning with the FP once I did it with the BH. I just assumed that as I changed my set up slightly for the BH tuning that it will be off with FPs . I was more concerned with the terrible paper tears. I got much better results on paper before I ever started trying the walk back tuning. 

[moog5050]

2 hours ago, 2012_taco said:

I'll give it a try. I didn't even think about trying the walk back tuning with the FP once I did it with the BH. I just assumed that as I changed my set up slightly for the BH tuning that it will be off with FPs . I was more concerned with the terrible paper tears. I got much better results on paper before I ever started trying the walk back tuning. 

The idea is to have the BH and FP hitting same spot as you shoot farther away.  BY doing so, you are adjusting the centershot on the rest so that the arrow is leaving with optimal energy (which will happen when the FP and BH hit the same spot no matter the distance).

[dbHunterNY]

yea if tuned well a bow can group broadheads with field points out way beyond what people shoot.  tiny adjustments to the rest and use a pencil or take a picture in between adjustments in case you make things worse or rest shifts too far out of place.  when walking back and shooting use the same pin to aim, knowing it'll shoot low as you work back.  sometimes sight isn't perfectly aligned so aiming with different pins changes form and/or slight canting of the bow.

[2012_taco]

I gave up!!! I tried the walk back with field points and BHs and now I am all over the place. It was getting so frustrating that yesterday I took my bow in to Nick's, having Roy check the tuning for me. I need to know it is set up right first, then I can try to fine tune it with the BHs and FPs. I hate this, if I don't see better results soon I will not feel confident hunting with the bow. It seems I go through this every year! I get comfortable with shooting my bow with field points but when I switch to BHs they always shoot different. I have tried many different heads hoping to correct this but it hasn't worked so far!