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Broad heads


Culvercreek hunt club
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Let me start by saying I am not trying to start a firestorm, just looking for some insite from past experiences.

I have been reading posts about wounded and lost deer. I have been bow hunting since 83 and have taken 20 deer with the bow. My first bow was a whitetail 2...then proline...bowtech and now a hoyt. The bowtech was my fastest bow and it was the only one that when I shot a deer I didn't get a pass through. That deer was also the only one that I ever used a mechanical broadhead on. Quartering away..perfect shot and didnt' make it out of the other ribcage. Let me also say the furthest I have taken a deer at was 28 yards. (with the whitetail 2) when that one didn't pass through I switched right back to fixed blade and poof...pass throughs again. This was before these rear deploying blade types and I hear they are supposed to be better.

I was just wondering what you guys have seen on arrows not getting full penetration with your broadheads. I am shooting the G5 Montecs for the first time this year and first time using a cut on contact instead of a chisel point.

My thoughts are also that if a fixed blade ends up not passing through and it is pulled or drops out it would have to cut on the way back out as well....I think we lose that posibility with the mechanicals don't we?

Edited by Culvercreek hunt club
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This topic can be subjective. However, shot placement is everything.

Any broadhead placed in the vitals will do it's job.

Here are things I personally feel effect arrow penitration and guys do not realize it.

1. Your broadheads should be brand new or sharpened razor sharp. Many guys will practice with the same broadheads they shoot a deer with. After a few times into a target those broadheads become dull. This is a huge factor why guys do not get pass throughs.

2. Guys will shoot an arrow that is too light. If you want good penitration try and stick to a 400gr. arrow give or take 25gr. I know guys will play the whole speed vs. kenetic energy vs penitration... yada yada yada. If you have the time to BS about that stuff you're probably not hunting enough to have the experience about the topic to begin with.

Place any arrow with a sharp broadhead in the vitals and you have a pass through.

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Martin Bengal 64 lbs.

Deer#1-Shockwave expandable, no passthrough all blades snapped on first shoulder at 21 yards.

Deer#2-G5 Montec fixed blade, blistered through both shoulders for a passthrough at 26 yards.

Deer#3-G5 Montec fixed blade, passthrough through the opposite shoulder at 26 yards.

Deer#4-G5 Montec fixed blade, passthrough through both shoulders at 32 yards.

I've shot 7 deer with my bow, only one with expandable broadheads. After I saw what the Montecs do, I'll never switch again! Best broadhead i've ever shot! By Far! Flies just like my field points, no sight adjustments needed. B)

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slight variation, properly tuned is everything...... If you're shooting an arrow that is too heavy or too light for the draw weight and arrow length you will loose a lot of efficiency. I'm shooting a 353 gr arrow at 65 lbs that is 30" long. I blows holes through everything. I'm also using a Rage 2 Blade mechanical. The arrows were tailing left until I took the bow down a couple of pounds. Hencing tuning did the trick.

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Im using the Crimson Talon XTs, which are fixed blade, chisel point 3 blade broadheads. Im pretty sure they arent the reason why I dint get a pass through, it was more of a slightly off shot that I believe hit the shoulder bone. Ive had pass throughs with these broadheads before, as Ive used them off and on for quite a while now.

Next year I plan to change the setup just a bit. I want a little more weight for my arrows. Right now they are at 350ish grains total with the 100 gr broadhead. I am going to add the weight straws, 125 gr broadheads and lighted nocks to push them over the 400 mark. I am going to go with the G5 Montec CS in 125 gr. Hopefully between the cut on contact design and the extra weight, a bone wont stop the arrow as easily.

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This topic can be subjective. However, shot placement is everything.

Any broadhead placed in the vitals will do it's job.

Here are things I personally feel effect arrow penitration and guys do not realize it.

1. Your broadheads should be brand new or sharpened razor sharp. Many guys will practice with the same broadheads they shoot a deer with. After a few times into a target those broadheads become dull. This is a huge factor why guys do not get pass throughs.

2. Guys will shoot an arrow that is too light. If you want good penitration try and stick to a 400gr. arrow give or take 25gr. I know guys will play the whole speed vs. kenetic energy vs penitration... yada yada yada. If you have the time to BS about that stuff you're probably not hunting enough to have the experience about the topic to begin with.

Place any arrow with a sharp broadhead in the vitals and you have a pass through.

I know it is subjective and there are literally 100's of variables. I can't tell from what you posted ...you feel the mechanicals are just as acceptable in performance as fixed?

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I shot my first deer with a bear broad-head. Then i got a new bow and jumped on the mechanical band wagon for a while (spitfires) and shot two deer with them. A big 7pt and a big doe - neither were pass troughs so back to fixed blade i went. I have shot razorbacks which were decent but i have had them disintegrate against a shoulder. I have been using slick tricks which i like and i would buy again. For now i am going back to these little guys because i found 8 of them in my old gear.

post-40-0-42298100-1320345100_thumb.jpg

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Im using the Crimson Talon XTs, which are fixed blade, chisel point 3 blade broadheads. Im pretty sure they arent the reason why I dint get a pass through, it was more of a slightly off shot that I believe hit the shoulder bone. Ive had pass throughs with these broadheads before, as Ive used them off and on for quite a while now. Next year I plan to change the setup just a bit. I want a little more weight for my arrows. Right now they are at 350ish grains total with the 100 gr broadhead. I am going to add the weight straws, 125 gr broadheads and lighted nocks to push them over the 400 mark. I am going to go with the G5 Montec CS in 125 gr. Hopefully between the cut on contact design and the extra weight, a bone wont stop the arrow as easily.

Just watch your arrow spine reaction when you add more weight up front. The more weight the more you will see a weak spine reaction from the arrow. As long as every thing is tuned to the T and you have the proper arrow selected you will see great results.

I shot through the frontleg on the one I got over the weekend when I was finishing it off. My arrow didn't go to far but it did indeed break bone on the way in which I was surprised by. But then again I do shoot CX piledriver 450's which are a heavy arrow and a stiff spined one at that. I think the arrow and bow tune is more important than the Broadhead. I have never tried mechanicals, and have been stuck on Muzzy 3 blade 75 grainers for a long time now and I love em.

I see alot of what I consider light arrows on the market, maybe that is why we see lack of penetration so much?

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WNY, when you say 400, does that refer to the brand's number or the actual spine? For those that don't know, the smaller the spine number the stiffer the spine is, ex. a .300 is stiffer than a .350 or .500. And those charts that you see from arrow companies are typically only set up for an arrow length of 28 inches, anything over that and the charts go out the window kind of. Different companies recomend different spines aswell, CX says I can shoot a .350 spine while Easton recomends a .300. The .300 is what I went to and I do not regret that, it is better to be slightly over spined that it is to be slightly under spined any day of the week IMO.

Edited by Doewhacker
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WNY, when you say 400, does that refer to the brand's number or the actual spine? For those that don't know, the smaller the spine number the stiffer the spine is, ex. a .300 is stiffer than a .350 or .500. And those charts that you see from arrow companies are typically only set up for an arrow length of 28 inches, anything over that and the charts go out the window kind of. Different companies recomend different spines aswell, CX says I can shoot a .350 spine while Easton recomends a .300. The .300 is what I went to and I do not regret that, it is better to be slightly over spined that it is to be slightly under spined any day of the week IMO.

The chart I used from Harvest Time is calculated by arrow length and draw weight for that specific model of arrow. Now I remember what it was....I could have gone with the 350 if I wanted to up my poundage, but I never will, as I like a lighter, easier draw for hunting, so I stuck with the 400. Heres the chart for my arrows.

http://www.harvestti...w-sizing-chart/

BTW, my bow is considered Medium cam and arrows are 28 inches at 63lbs pull.

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Know im going to get killed for this but i use Rage 2 blades and have taken 4 deer with them since i started using them all 4 have been pass throughs and the blood trails they left were un real. My brother makes fun of me to this day saying that if i shoot one he knows its going to be a blood bath in them woods lol. I will continue using them until i have a bad expirence.

John

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this is by far a hotly debated topic and it goes way deeper then the braodhead being shot although there are some broad heads that are not miracles but maybe can be the difference between a lost deer on a MARGINAL shot. I think the BIGGEST factor that equates to lost deer in my opinion does not narrow down the broad head nor arrow weight. I believe its hunters who may mis judge a few important variables:

1) Elevation and Distance

2) was the deer quatering to or broadside and THIS i think is why alot of deer are lost each year due to hunters not being able to properly read how that deer is positioned and be able to place a shot accordingly. A qautering to deer is NOT the same angle as broadside or quartering away. i think shot angles are most often mis judges.

3) Not giving deer the proper time to expire and or know the difference between pursuing a blood trail and knowing when to back out.

i im pretty sure you can kill a deer with a field tip if placed properly... i personally shoot rage broad heads persoanlly because i have tried about a dozen different heads and i happen to like this one the best, plain and simple. It doesnt mean i can get away with placing a crap shot on a deer in hopes of finding it. i think your equipment is key by far and i am also a firm beleiver on practice practice paractice ALSO having the hunter know how on what to do and when to do it. ALL of this is essential in the recovery of any animal regardless what we shoot. You give me a dull broad head right now and a 20 yard shot and i grant you with my bow i will no doubt get a clean passthrough if hit in the right spot, completely broadside and not hitting an off shoulder, that deer will go down....

ALOT of education comes from personal seat time and years of experience along with the willingness to learn and try things. Ive been bow hunting for 17 years now and lost 1 deer, swrore it wont happen again but i can not guarantee it. i do know i can use all my essentials i have learned in my bow career and put them to the test!!

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I have been shooting Grim Repear's mechanical for the last 5 years and only lost one deer with these broad heads.

I am really looking at penetration as opposed to whether we got/lost the deer or not. I think if we hit the heart with a sharpened stick or a knitting needle it would be terminal.,..lol. How did they penetrate?

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Im using the Crimson Talon XTs, which are fixed blade, chisel point 3 blade broadheads. Im pretty sure they arent the reason why I dint get a pass through, it was more of a slightly off shot that I believe hit the shoulder bone. Ive had pass throughs with these broadheads before, as Ive used them off and on for quite a while now.

Next year I plan to change the setup just a bit. I want a little more weight for my arrows. Right now they are at 350ish grains total with the 100 gr broadhead. I am going to add the weight straws, 125 gr broadheads and lighted nocks to push them over the 400 mark. I am going to go with the G5 Montec CS in 125 gr. Hopefully between the cut on contact design and the extra weight, a bone wont stop the arrow as easily.

i used the crimpsons and to be honest i think they are the best fixed blades out. i switched from them to Rage and never looked back

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What is the draw to mechanicals any way? Is it because they fly well and don't require as much tuning?

The cutting surface area is not any more or less most of the time, just curious.

what is the draw to fixed cause they cut on contact? so do my rage, and they are fully deployed smashing a 2" plus hole in my deer on contact...

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I had a bad experience with mechanicals when they first came out in the 80's. Lack of penetration big time. I'm sure they have gotten a lot better since then, but I refuse to use them. I know my wasp boss bullets are going to cut no matter what. I blow through them like nothing. Like Culvercreek said, they have the capability of cutting on the way out as well. They fly perfectly too.

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i used the crimpsons and to be honest i think they are the best fixed blades out. i switched from them to Rage and never looked back

I love them, but availability locally is becoming an issue, and even though I could get them online, I have decided to make the switch for a couple of reasons. First and foremost being that I can resharpen the Montecs. The other reason is because I can resharpen the Montecs. ;)

I shot Rages last year, and while I cant say anything bad about them, I just want to get back to my favorite principal. KISS

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No, my reason for using fixed blade is there is nothing to worry about. No parts, nothing to pop open at the wrong time, and no loss of energy on impact. Part of the K.I.S.S method, (Keep It Simple Stupid) that I prefer.

(whops, This was a reply to Geno)

Edited by Doewhacker
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